Does fishing from a Kayak warrant a rod built specifically for it. I.E, shorter handle section, longer rod with a faster tip for casting. Just curious, I am thinking about designing a line of "Kayak" rods.

 If you guy's and gal's would not mind helping out with some ideas I would greatly appreciate it.

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

Mako 284 w/ twin 250 verados:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpmWGjaEjkw

 I would just like to add them to my collection. I don't have a yak to fish from so I really not sure if there is a need for a different type rod, or if that is just a marketing technique by the large companies. "Floating", now that's an awesome idea.

 Just curious if you guys see a need, and if so what would you like to see different? 

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

That's a really good question. Hard to see how one could without an overwhelming amout of flotation.

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

Mako 284 w/ twin 250 verados:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpmWGjaEjkw

>))))))*>      >)))))))))))*>       >))))))))))*>         >))))*>       >))))*>        >))))))))*>     >)))*>                

~12' Hobie Outback Yak - Eagle 245DS FF ~ Wicked Pam Flint... Blackwater  Pirates - www.blackwaterliving.com       ~PRFA Member~                                                           

 Do have have any problems with the shorter handled rods, is there a need for a longer butt section?

Also do Kayak rod holders have gimbal's in them? Would a small gimbal seat be of any value on lighter inshore type rods?

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

I've been fishing from my kayak(s) for the past couple of years.  I have a number of different rods/reels that I use - most of them conventional inshore outfits.  My rods are in the 6 1/2 to 7 foot ranges.  I have checked out some of the rods made for kayaks, and I think the two primary advantages are 1) shorter handles for ease of use in a more confined space (and usually shallower rod holders), and; 2) longer overall lengths so that you can work a fish around the front of the 'yak from a seated position.  Also, the lighter the better in my opinion.

The concept of a floating rod sounds intriguing, too. Anyway, just my .02 cents.  There are many more experienced 'yak fishermen and women than I that prowl this forum - they should be able to give you alot of valuable input and ideas.

Good luck! 

Timman

SeaHunt Escape 200/Yamaha 150 ~ "Time On The Water"

Hobie Mirage Sport ~ Hobie Mirage Outfitter

 Thanks for the input, I was thinking rods in the 7' 6" range, with a soft tip and plenty of Back bone. Does this sound about right? Weight is easy to reduce by selecting the right components but it can also drive up the cost. I want to keep these priced where they will be really affordable for anyone.

 Also, on guides. Does the guide feet make much of a difference or is it purely preference. Would a double footed guide be better for wear and tear on a yak?

 Thanks again for all the input!!!!!!!

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

My rod holders... well... I use a piece of pvc in each one to stablize and prop up the rod better. Hobie just makes them so deep... and they are pretty wide, so with using the pvc, it helps keep the rod inside the yak better. I mostly use a car cell phone charger to connect the rod to the yak. I cut off the ends... then loop and glue and then tape them... the velcro then runs through the first loop, which attaches it to the rod... then the other loop is hooked to an eyelet or the seat clip. A lot of times when I'm reeling it in... that loop gets twisted around the reel and then you have to stop to move it over. I really don't know what you could use to stop that and have a secure connector there and it stay out of the way.

I love that cord that Capt'n Ken makes. I just don't have access to 300lb line.   In 10 years... I wouldn't use up hardly any. I need to start asking if anyone has any left over that isn't enough to use.

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>))))))*>      >)))))))))))*>       >))))))))))*>         >))))*>       >))))*>        >))))))))*>     >)))*>                

~12' Hobie Outback Yak - Eagle 245DS FF ~ Wicked Pam Flint... Blackwater  Pirates - www.blackwaterliving.com       ~PRFA Member~                                                           

Yeah, a 7 to 7 1/2 foot rod sounds about right.  I fish mostly from my Hobie Mirage Sport. It is a shorter kayak (it's just shy of 10 feet long), so I don't need the length that the majority of the 'yakkers out there need.  Many of the more popular fishing 'yaks are over 12 feet long - some I've seen up to 16 feet long.  The longer rod would definitely be an advantage to them. In some cases, an 8 foot rod might not be out of the question.  I also agree that fast action and strong backbone would be ideal.

As for the guides, I'm not really sure about that.  I personally like the Fuji single foot on all my inshore rods because of the lighter weight - and they have held up fine 95% of the time.  (I know that double foot guides are typical on the offshore rods.)  I haven't really found that I subject my rods to any more wear and tear on my kayak vs. my motor boat.  Probably less because they only have a couple of places to call "home" on the 'yak.  They tend to get moved around more on my motor boat.

One thing you might take into consideration is the increasing use of braided line and the impact it has on the guide inserts.  I know some of the newer quides have inserts that are designed to withstand the additional abrasiveness of the braided lines. But then again, I'm sure that all these little "improvements" will drive the cost up!

Anyway, good luck with the rods.  Kayak fishing is definitely one of the (if not THE) fastest growing water sports around.  I would imagine lots of opportunities are out there for specialization.  Keep us posted - I might like to check out some of finished products! 

Timman

SeaHunt Escape 200/Yamaha 150 ~ "Time On The Water"

Hobie Mirage Sport ~ Hobie Mirage Outfitter

 It's gonna be a few weeks before I can start on a prototype, so I will probably be asking more questions once i begin. Also are there any large Kayak events coming up in the next couple of months. I may want to donate a Prototype to the event to get some feedback and start spreading the word!!

 Thanks again for all the help!!!!!

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

>))))))*>      >)))))))))))*>       >))))))))))*>         >))))*>       >))))*>        >))))))))*>     >)))*>                

~12' Hobie Outback Yak - Eagle 245DS FF ~ Wicked Pam Flint... Blackwater  Pirates - www.blackwaterliving.com       ~PRFA Member~                                                           

2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

My biggest yak fish, 200# plus Tarpon,was caught on an Ambassadeur Record 60 with 20# spider wire.  I tried to break the fish off before he got too tired and found out i couldn't break the 20# test.  The rod I used was a 5'6" Spidercast rod that I paid about 5 bucks for at the Berkley Tackle Outlet in Spirit lake.  My yak spinning rods are 6' 4-12# rated and I use cheap Daiwa reels. 

Really good tackle can get to be really bad tackle when used in a yak---lost too.

My "Big Gun" is a 6' Uglystick bait caster -about 6" of tip.  I have a Shimano Bantam Mag 50 reel on it.  I use this when Cobia are around and when casting poppers for big Grouper.

Of course, my yak is only 12' long and has a rudder for quick turns.  Long rods make landing big fish to doggone hard.

Just my opinion but I catch a lot of fish from my yak.

Life is too short to catch little fish.

 http://www.panhandlefishingbooks.com/

 I appreciate the input.

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

   Short butt length will help cause of the lower profile we present in the water. The butt is ussually jammed in our ribs or higher will fighting a fish. Most manufacture butt lengths are way too long for this manuverbility , and too long for casting at that. Im always choked up on the grip of store rods to get an optimal cast.

  Like Pam said, a small quick-clip of some sort so u can unclip safty leash after hook-up.

   My personal favorite is a 6' two peice for a bait rod u can store in the front hatch. one less rod to worry about when entering and exiting the surf.    All in all I dont thik u can go wrong with a 7' relatively fast action rod with about an 8" butt . The stiff mid section of a fast action rod, and the shorter butt grip will help clear the bows of most yaks and help manuverability and fish fighting at the same time.

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www.cavittscustoms.com

 I really hope I can put something together that will work.

One more question, does anyone have problem loading Graphite blanks? Either casting from sitting position or setting the hook. I was just wondering if a Composite blank might not be better suited to Kayak fishing.

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

Medium / fast action is good - you will not be horsing up a fish from down deep in a yak - you don't have the leverage.  If you hook something big, just keep the rod pointed off the bow and let the yak act as a big drag.  (think large barrel from Jaws...)

Would love to see what you come up with... 

www.GulfCoastKayakFishing.com

The rod holders and tackle box holderson the back of my chair hold rods and boxes securely.  I regularly keep my tackle there I the back of my truck.

Life is too short to catch little fish.

 http://www.panhandlefishingbooks.com/

 I could cut a few corners on components, but that's reall not how I like to do things. I will still be building one and donating it to a Kayak event just for feedback if nothing else. Thanks again for all the great information.

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

Just a thought...

2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods

Even though dipping the rod to work a fish does work it can be tricky when a big fish is pulling from the side.  I have used, and given up on, sort rods.  I like to have the reach to get the line around the front of the yak and stay in control.  I repeat though, length for getting around the kayak is secondary to length for trolling spread.

Braid is commonly used but I have not had problems with guides.

If you do attach a clip for leash, it needs to be high enough up so as to not get in the way of the rod holder (ram tubes, scotty and molded in types) and low enough to be out of the way of the reel handle swing.  This is not an easy thing to solve but yu can do it.

The GCKFA would love to have a rod to give as an award for our tournament next spring.  I won the King Mack division this past spring and absolutely cherish my Cavitt custom rod.  Rick asks me when I am actually going to fish with it and I tell him it is a show piece.  Not really, but I do show it off a lot. 

I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Ted Gorder, GCKFA Vice President.

thanks again for all the input!!

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2101 Century Bay / 150 Yamaha - Team "Reel Gooder"

2700 Triton / Twin 225 Mercury Optimax - Team "Over the Edge"

Emerald Coast Custom Rods