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Pin Fish
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 10/30/2008 2:25:23 PM
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| I'm having to do a fair bit of re-wiring on my boat, due to existing contacts being corroded and cable deteriotion. On the boat there is a mixture of all sorts of cable types been used over the years. I don't see any difference between the marine grade cable and normal automotive styled cable. Can anyone tell me the benefits of using marine cable, which is much more expensive than automtive/instrument cable...?
___________________________________________23' 1986 Sea Ox 230C, twin Suzuki DT115 outboards
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White Marlin
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| Marine grade wire usually has a tin coating. This aids in protecting the wire from corrosion. If you want to see what saltwater does to bare copper connections, place a bare copper connection in a bucket of saltwater and turn the circuit on. You will basically watch the copper dissappear before your eyes. In our salty environment, tinned/marine grade wire is a must if you don't want to have shorts one year later. Or sometimes sooner. This is a little quote from Ancor's website: Marine Grade™ Boat Cable vs. SAE Wire"Can I use 'regular wire' for my boat?". The answer to this common question is a qualified "yes", if the wire is SAE (Society of Automotive Engineering) J378, J1127 or J1128. These wires are designed for "surface vehicles", not for the special requirements of the marine industry, but meet the minimum standards for boats in limited circumstances, even if tinned copper, they should not be run in bilge spaces or other areas subject to moisture from spray or dripping. They should not be run in engines spaces, unless marked "oil resistant". They should not be used in applications where subjected to vibration or frequent flexing and must never be used for 110 volt applications. For safety, use only wire which is marked with size and type. Most importantly, SAE wire is up to 12% smaller than AWG Boat Cable which means that, in many applications, larger gauge wire must be used to stay within the voltage drop limits recommended by experts (see Tables C & D, below). The wire charts found in "Chapman's Piloting" and other publications are all for "AWG" wire like ANCOR, not "SAE" type wire. Using the wrong type of wire can cost you more in the long run. Insist on Marine Grade™ Boat Cable by ANCOR. It is UL approved for the corrosive marine environment and charter boat service. Marine Grade™ Boat Cable is specially designed to exceed all test standards for cold bend, moisture and oil resistance, heat shock and flammability to ensure the safest, easiest to install, longest lasting and ultimately the least expensive electrical system you can buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "H2O: 2 parts hydrogen 1 part obsession." The user formerly known as Knot a Yacht Jon
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Trigger
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 11/30/2008 12:53:20 PM
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We have all the marine wire you need in stock along with many styles of switches, fuse blocks, and wire connectors.
The Maintenance Shoppe LLC
SALES, INSTALLATION, AND SERVICE
*RAYMARINE *GARMIN *FURUNO *LOWRANCE *KENWOOD *BAZOOKA
Your boat repair and customization headquarters
1 mile west of Scenic Hwy on Creighton Rd
4048 Creighton Rd.
Pensacola, FL. 32504
850-221-6789
http://www.themaintenanceshoppe.com
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Pin Fish
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 10/30/2008 2:25:23 PM
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| Thanks for that. Well I need to replace quite a bit of wire on the boat. Most of it is standard automotive grade wire and many lines have suffered a lot of corrosion. This has resulted in most of the cockpit gauges not working. Also most of the fuse holders and switches are badly corroded. Looks like I might be doing a fiar amount of cutting and stripping...
___________________________________________23' 1986 Sea Ox 230C, twin Suzuki DT115 outboards
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Grouper
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Let me know if I can help or guide you on the selection of equipment.
It sounds like you need to start from scratch. The is no reason to put JUNK back in it.
---------------------------------------------------------
"Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's worth a Damn."
Pensacola, Fl
Custom 23ft Mako Pilothouse w/ twin DF-140 Suzuki's
162 Scout w/ C-90 Yamaha
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Snapper
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Snelly (9/26/2008)
Thanks for that. Well I need to replace quite a bit of wire on the boat. Most of it is standard automotive grade wire and many lines have suffered a lot of corrosion. This has resulted in most of the cockpit gauges not working. Also most of the fuse holders and switches are badly corroded. Looks like I might be doing a fiar amount of cutting and stripping... I think you answered your own question... bad wire = corrosion more quickly. When a boat manufacturer builds a boat he might save a LOT of $$$ by using cheaper wire. For the maybe hundreds of boats they build. I think, when it comes time to replace it on YOUR, ONE boat, you'd be smart to spend a bit more for the tinned wire upgrade. JMHO, Jim PS... do you notice most of your wires on your boat are "just" the right length? It's because a builder saves money by not making a wire bundle long enough to do an easy repair. Not saying they're bad by doing this, just saying they know how to make a good boat at the least possible cost. Same deal with aircraft, though weight is a BIG issue with airplanes... Wire = Money.
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Snapper
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Trigger
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marine grade wire is usually super flex also. Meaning the individual conductors are very fine. this helps with flexibility issues. auto wire will eventually break where it flexes. spend the money and get good wire. check ebay- they have some good deals on all the wire you need.
John - BuckWild "The Original"Pathfinder 23DV-F225 yammy "Liquid Chaos"  
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