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Ruby Red Lip
 
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| At full plane WOT this is where the water level is at the gearcase of my motor. Seems too low to me as the gearcase bolts are in the water at this height as well the cavitation plate is below the waterline. I still have one bolt hole left on the mount to raise the motor. 
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White Marlin
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 With the plate mounted at the same level as the bottom of the boat, the waterline might be higher then where you have it marked. Is the plate (red line) at the same level as the bottom of your boat?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I'm a Sagittarius...If you don't want to hear the truth then don't ask my opinion!
Then again I'm a "Vacuous Asshat"  Political Correctness:
A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rapidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. “Tell me who your friends are and I will tell who you are.” Century 25' Mirada 350/260HP "ISLAND LADY" >>>> Calera, Alabama My Pictures
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White Marlin
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| I would think it's suppose to be up to the next line.. 3-4inchs up... what type of boat and motor?
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Ruby Red Lip
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| No I know it shouldnt be that high. Its a pro line 20 sport with a honda 130.
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Grouper
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Tuna Man's got it. The only draw back sometimes is, depending on the hull of the boat, you may loose some trimming ability and may have blow outs in turns. It doesn't take much to try and see if you like it. If not, put it back. Make sure you use silicone to seal around the bolts.
Davlor Marine, LLC mobile marine repairs, maintenance, and installations 850-777-7303 www.davlormarine.webs.com
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Snapper
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I would leave it where it is.
I raised mine up like that, so that the cavitation plate was level with the bottom of the boat and when I would turn moderately it would cavitate/suck air and lose thrust. I ended up having to lower mine back down to the original location.
If it's just a couple inches , I'd leave it where it is....
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Sailfish
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While what BIGRIGZ said can happen, if you trim the motor down in a hard turn it helps and is how race boats are run.
As DOUBLE "D" & LV said different hulls react differently. The anticavation plate can be level with the bottom of the hull or sometimes even higher.
Your RPM will increase when raising a motor and your fuel millage may increase also. These are some of the benefits of raising a motor.
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Ruby Red Lip
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Tuna Man (10/19/2008)
With the plate mounted at the same level as the bottom of the boat, the waterline might be higher then where you have it marked. Is the plate (red line) at the same level as the bottom of your boat? I raised the motor to the last hole left in the mount and yes now the cav. plate is even with the bottom of the boat. I knew it didnt look right when I looked back there while we were running the boat. But I guess the idea applies the same to these as they do to bass boats. Just wasnt sure. Needed some confermation. Thanks for the help everyone.
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Sailfish
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Have you run it yet?
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"Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's worth a Damn."
Pensacola, Fl
Custom 23ft Mako Pilothouse w/ twin DF-140 Suzuki's
162 Scout w/ C-90 Yamaha
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Ruby Red Lip
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X-Shark (10/24/2008)
Have you run it yet? Have not yet no......
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Ruby Red Lip
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| I believe shop manuals will tell you to mount the motor with the cavitation plate in line with the bottom of the boat. However, you can mount it up a notch. By doing this you will gain some top end speed but lose some handling when the motor is trimmed up. As stated before, if the motor is trimmed down in turns you shouldn't have a problem. Also, if you mount it higher, the boat will not plane as quickly and it may porpoise, even when trimmed all the way down. Since you have raised it, try it out. But if you notice handling, porpoising or planing issues that you don't like, lower it back down. I raised mine a notch and I did notice more top end and a lighter bow, but I have trim tabs and it really isn't a problem.
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Ruby Red Lip
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| Speckula wrote "Also, if you mount it higher, the boat will not plane as quickly and it may porpoise, even when trimmed all the way down. Since you have raised it, try it out. But if you notice handling, porpoising or planing issues that you don't like, lower it back down." OK I was able to take the boat out this weekend. Longer planing times and porposing was the results of raising the motor for me. Just as soon as started to trim up it would start to bounce so Ill be putting back where it was to start. But Ive encountered another problem that I cant say whether or not was present before I raised the motor or is a result of me raising the motor. We went out of venice and headed out the southwest pass of the river. It was a long run and the longest strait run Ive made so far in the boat. Motor runs real good for about 15 mins. into the run and then starts to surge just as if you cut the key off for a split second. It keeps doing this until you throttle back. After that itll run good again for a while and then starts to surge again. Also hitting waves like a boats wake will set off the surging. after I drive over the first wave and come into the next one a surge will happen and itll do it on the rest of the waves. Each surge is the same as the last and they happen with about a 1 second frequency. I dont think Ive raised the motor enough to cavitate and get on the rev limiter? I was thinking it might be a fuel delivery problem. A clogged filter would be nice. When I got home I took the cowl off and noticed the motors fuel filter was almost empty of fuel. I removed the screw on filter in the bilge and noticed it was only about 1/2 full of gas. And no gas came out of the lines when I unscrewed it. I blew air through the motors filter and its free. Ill be putting a new screw on filter in tomorow. I have yet to check the tanks filter. Am I on the right track or am I barking up the wrong tree.
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White Marlin
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Sounds like you are on target...check tank pick up and for any place air can be sucked into the system (tank fittings, line fittings etc).
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I'm a Sagittarius...If you don't want to hear the truth then don't ask my opinion!
Then again I'm a "Vacuous Asshat" Political Correctness:
A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rapidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. “Tell me who your friends are and I will tell who you are.” Century 25' Mirada 350/260HP "ISLAND LADY" >>>> Calera, Alabama My Pictures
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Mingo
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| Check your tank vent, primer bulb, and check valve between fuel tank and engine if you have one. Many people do away with those check valves.
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Ruby Red Lip
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| Hey skeet. The tank vent was another possibility Ive considered. My fuel fill pipe and the tank vent both come into the fuel fill and vent via the cap. I will be checking that too. As far as the one way valve goes....well I broke it off trying to get it out... so much for it. I was wondering of I could replace it with a regular barbed fitting. I guess I will now. You answered my next question before I even asked it. Thanks for the info. When I pulled the fuel pickup out of the tank the tube was good and the filter was clear. So far I havent found any leakes or blockages.
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