|
|
|
Ruby Red Lip
 
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/11/2010 9:08:14 PM
Posts: 87,
Visits: 520
|
|
| After reading the posts about trailers it made me a bit curious. I decided to post my question here so I didn't derail the thread. When I get back to the house I rinse and wash everything I can, including the trailer. But, that is really all that I do-rinse/wash. I saw a flush system on the Florida Fishing Report a few years ago and thought it was a great idea and have pretty much replicated the process as close as I could without buying and installing one. But, on the trailer thread posted earlier there was a response. "Flush connectors are somewhat useless in our opinion. You could rinse your brakes all day, but brakes technically require a rinsing AND lubricating series of events to best maintain them. Brakes, plus the tiniest remnant of salt, with inadequate lubrication is trouble in the making. Just imagine how one piece of salt or sand feels under your fingernail... it bothers you until you dislodge it... and it you jammed it far enough in there... you still feel the stinging hours after has been rinsed free (in theory, that's the rust setting in ;)" So my question is.....what do you do to your trailer after dunking? What should I be doing? (I am also going to pull out the DVD that came with my trailer to see what MagicTilt recommends).
Joe Cassidy
2200 CC Century
Titan'ed Lines Gulf Breeze 32563
|
|
|
|
|
Trigger
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/17/2010 7:09:16 PM
Posts: 268,
Visits: 645
|
|
| Rinse/lube is about the best you can do.
|
|
|
|
|
Snapper
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Yesterday @ 10:31:42 PM
Posts: 520,
Visits: 6,548
|
|
Saltaway. Expensive product but it works extremely well to remove all of the salt and it seems to leave a light "coating" on stuff that you wash. The coating really can't be seen, but everything feels slick.
http://www.saltawayproducts.com
|
|
|
|
|
Snapper
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:55:09 PM
Posts: 421,
Visits: 1,547
|
|
| The OLE Make It Last. I'lltell you folks what I do, First my trailer doesn't have brakes. So I'm not referring to atrailer with brakes. I trailer a Wellcraft Steplift V-20 on a double axle trailer I bought from Eddie English Trailers in Milton. One thing alot of people don't do is rinse their trailer after splahing the boat to go fishing. The trailer will sit however long you are gone fishing with saltwater on it and all components. I rinse my trailer after everysplash( launching or retrieving) I noticed one day that my rims had some corrosion on them where the saltwater sat on them all day while fishing(the cupped area right next to the tire). I now make sure I rinse my trailer after every time in the water weather coming or going. I think it is very important to rinse the trailer while the trailer is still wet from saltwater (immediately after splashing or retrieving) If the saltwater dries then it becomes even harder to get the salt rinsed off. I try real hard to only lauch where fresh water is available. Thats one reason I don't mind paying for the launch if freshwater rinse is available. I want to build me a freshwater pump and keep in the back of my truck for launching at ramps with no freshwater rinse. I have a tank to store the water in , just need to rig me up a pump. I have a hard bed cover on my truck so I can lock the back if needed. IMOP it is very important to rinse your trailer before the saltwater dries on the trailer. Rinsing while wet is no cure all, but it will definately slow down the process of corrosion.
"GET'EM OFF THE BOTTOM"
|
|
|
|
|
Sailfish
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/16/2010 3:25:36 PM
Posts: 1,895,
Visits: 8,193
|
|
We rinse after both launch and retreival too. Salt terminator at end of day..then a couple times a year we dump the boat and really give the trailer parts some attention, scrubbing spraying, etc.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Florida-Offshore.com is the Home of Florida's ONLY Bluewater Supermap, SeaView Fishing Satellite Service, & our very own Reefcast Forecast!
|
|
|
|
|
Sailfish
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 12:28:39 AM
Posts: 1,962,
Visits: 6,157
|
|
"Flush connectors are somewhat useless in our opinion. You could rinse your brakes all day, but brakes technically require a rinsing AND lubricating series of events to best maintain them. Brakes, plus the tiniest remnant of salt, with inadequate lubrication is trouble in the making. Just imagine how one piece of salt or sand feels under your fingernail... it bothers you until you dislodge it... and it you jammed it far enough in there... you still feel the stinging hours after has been rinsed free (in theory, that's the rust setting in ;)"
That statement is referring to drum brakes. Eventually you will just junk the drum brakes and replace with disc brakes.
---------------------------------------------------------
"Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's worth a Damn."
Pensacola, Fl
Custom 23ft Mako Pilothouse w/ twin DF-140 Suzuki's
162 Scout w/ C-90 Yamaha
1860 SeaArk w/ DF-70 Suzuki
|
|
|
|
|
Sailfish
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Yesterday @ 6:28:34 PM
Posts: 1,685,
Visits: 16,957
|
|
I think this is probably what you were talking about for the system you saw on FS - http://www.trailerspa.net/ Never used it, don't know anything about it or how it holds up, but probably does get to some spots I don't get to with my hose. For me, I'm not so worried about the trailer itself, although I do rinse it, I focus mostly on the wheels and brakes.
______________________________________________________________________________________________
|
|
|
|
|
Mingo
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 12:17:08 AM
Posts: 111,
Visits: 549
|
|
| That washdown system may be a good suplement. My opinion is that it is useless. I'm sure I went the exspensive route, but I removed the brakes & bought a bigger truck. Brakes work great now!
|
|
|
|
|
Grouper
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 2 days ago @ 10:12:15 AM
Posts: 986,
Visits: 890
|
|
My Magictilt had the rinse system and it was completely useless. Had to remove the rusted brakes.
- 243CC Everglades
- 250HP Verado
-
- 18' Nitro Bass Boat
- 150HP Mercury Tracker Series
|
|
|
|
|
Grouper
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/17/2010 8:52:43 PM
Posts: 1,198,
Visits: 1,840
|
|
I will rinse the trailer, suspension and brakes off with city water from the hose when I get home and wash the boat the next day.
I am from the north where for 3 or 4 months of the year virtual every other vehicle is snow white with road salt on every surface.
So to have saltwater on my trailer for a mere 24 to 48 hours does not keep me awake at night.
|
|
|
|
|
Mingo
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Yesterday @ 8:54:16 PM
Posts: 121,
Visits: 1,375
|
|
| We bought new in 2004 not sure how old the trailer was but supposly new, before summer was over in 04 removed all the drum brakes on all 4 tires it did have the flush systemon it and it was used BA
-------------------------------------------24' cape w/t-yams, 1981 ski nautique Prattville Al. Casa del Marina in OB
|
|
|
|
|
Ruby Red Lip
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/5/2010 4:40:02 PM
Posts: 72,
Visits: 137
|
|
All in all... the brakes on your trailer require regular attention to make sure their liveliness is maintained.
You should inspect your brakes before/after each ride... simply checking for overheating, smoking/burning smell, discoloration. For instance, when you stop to fill up...don't burn yourself... but by simply touching the inside of the wheel can be a tell-tale sign of any issues (if it is hot to the touch, your brakes need attention). Notice how your brakes react... do you feel them sticking, making noises, etc.
95% of ALL trailer issues, including brake issues, tend to be issues created by the trailer Owner... not the trailer builder. You have to maintain your trailer. Just like you service your vehicle... your trailer needs regular attention too. Those of you who rinse down your trailer are doing better than some trailer owners (and believe us... we've seen the worst when it comes to improper maintenance). But to be in the elite group... you need to break down your wheels at a minimum of twice each year. First, and most importantly, this will help you better understand how the system works (for those of you who are not as mechanically inclined). After taking off the wheel... take off the two bolts/pins holding your brakes up to the rotor; believe it or not... these bolts are the most important component to maintain in regards to the health of the overall system. Take a wire brush and knock off any corrosion on the bolts and out of the holes which they go back into. Once all corrosion has been eliminated... grease these bad boys... and reinstall. While you have the system broken down, you can check your brake pads for wear.
Ideally, stainless steel brakes are the way to go, but again... it all comes down to cost and what you want to pay. Pay more up front for a better system, or pay less up front and deal with potential issues as they come.
Flush systems/trailer spas can do some bit of good... but all in all... if you simply take some time to give your trailer some good ole TLC... you should be able to fend of a majority of problems faced by those individuals who don't.
|
|
|
|
|
Cigar Minnow
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 2 days ago @ 2:36:52 PM
Posts: 12,
Visits: 196
|
|
| I have had my boat trailer since 2004 with drum brakes use the rinsing hook-up after every use this winter putting on new brake assemble $36.00 each side using same hubs after 6 years cant complain leaf springs were in worst condition than brake assemble $22.00 each. You can try to take care of it the best you can but salt water is rough. Titian has 2 year corrosion waranty guess i will see
|
|
|
|
|
Grouper
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/17/2010 8:52:43 PM
Posts: 1,198,
Visits: 1,840
|
|
Why is it that disc brakes on automobiles have been used for what, 30, 40 years now?
Driven day in and day out covered in salt for months at a time and hardly ever get rinsed off due to wheels in the way.
Yet they do the job they are designed to do for years and years and generally outlast the life of several pairs of brake pads without any maintenance.
But for boats it is a pathetic history of junk after a couple of years use?
|
|
|
|
|
Ruby Red Lip
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/5/2010 4:40:02 PM
Posts: 72,
Visits: 137
|
|
johnsonbeachbum (2/8/2010)
Why is it that disc brakes on automobiles have been used for what, 30, 40 years now?
Driven day in and day out covered in salt for months at a time and hardly ever get rinsed off due to wheels in the way.
Yet they do the job they are designed to do for years and years and generally outlast the life of several pairs of brake pads without any maintenance.
But for boats it is a pathetic history of junk after a couple of years use?
Dunking brakes versus exposing them to salt in the atmosphere (or spray from the roadways) are two different scenarios. Further, there are too many car manufacturers to name... but they all utilize different combinations of brake systems, brake pads, brake lines, and brake fluid (some of which are stainless steel applications which we have explained are the ideal way to go to the livelihood of brakes). I promise if you dunked the back end of your vehicle, brakes and all, into the local waterways... let's say one a month for four years... you would have the SAME pathetic drama. And with FDOT requiring brakes on all wheels (subject to debate per previous posts)... it is a darned if you do... darned if you don't sick cycle. But all in all... we are comparing apples to oranges regarding the brakes on cars and the brakes on boat trailers.
|
|
|
|
|
Snapper
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/17/2010 3:33:44 PM
Posts: 570,
Visits: 1,230
|
|
Take care of the springs also. I have been using LPS3 for years on metal springs with no problem at all. There are some other products like it out there also. The main thing is to pay attention to the leaf springs, wheel bearings , lights on a regular basics or you will be one of the ones we see on the side of the road. Otherwise 
Cisco Squid
|
|