# Time for a Paintjob - Hull Paint Q's and Tips...



## bamachem (Oct 2, 2007)

The exterior of my '94 Cape Horn is dull and needs a facelift. I've been doing a lot of "functional" work on it like a new power distribution fuseblock, new switches, cleaning up the wiring, adding LED lighting inside and out, etc. 



Now it's time to dress up the outside a little. I'm deciding between either a light teal green or a fighting lady yellow for the hull and I have a few questions before getting the supplies.



As far as what I'm going to paint, it will be above the chine, along the sides, and possible part of the stern at most. I'm not doing anything on the bottom of the hull and I'm not removing the motor to paint the complete stern. Something like this:














Now, on to brands. I've priced out Interlux Brightside, and from what I've read, it's a decent line to go with. Since they don't have the color that I want, I'll have to buy either white or off-white and then a quart of color to tint the base with. Anyway, would this be OK to use all the way down to the chine which is a few inches below the water line? It never sits in water more than 5-7 days at most once a year, and it's usually no more than a few hours and up to 36-hours at times when we spend a weekend at the beach house. If I allow it to sit in the water for more than a couple days and the paint is submerged, will I have issues w/ the Brightside? I'm trying to decide if I just paint above/at the waterline or if I can go a couple inches below.



Next, I plan on sanding the hull w/ 220, then 400, then applying at least two coats, and preferrably three. What I am unsure on is whether I should spray or roll it on. I have a compressor and automotive spary gun, and the experience to use it. However, I have heard of people getting excellent results using a foam roller and just taking their time. Has anyone here used the Brightside before, and if so, what was your application like? I want a good, slick finish, but I also have a professional rotary buffer to smooth the finish out after rolling if necessary. 



What's some good advise to get the best finish, without breaking the bank? Should I be looking at gelcoat? I've done gelcoat repairs in the past, so it's not foreign to me, but I know that would add a LOT of weight to an already "heavy" boat (see the stainless half-tower!).



THANKS!


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## oldflathead (Oct 3, 2007)

hi Andy,

Capes have a good deep gel coat. Once you paint over it, plan on repainting every 3 - 5 years

if you use Interlux Brightside or Petit's Easy Poxi. They are both very good paints, but nowhere as tough as your gel coat. The top of the line poly linear urethanes like Sterling and Awl Grip can last up to 10 years but figure about $300 a gallon. 



My technique for bringing out the gloss and preserving gel coat is:

-Wash the boat thoroughly using Tri Sodium Phosphate, (TSP)

-If the gel coat is badly oxidized, you may need to start with 600 wet sanding, then 1,000

-Get a heavy duty, low speed buffer with sheepskin pads

-Use 3 M's "Gel Coat Compound, about $80 a gallon and worth every cent

-As soon as your pad loads up with oxidation, flip it, use the other side, then wash it out

On a badly oxidized gel coat, you may only get about 4 SF per pad.

-Don't overheat the gel coat, keep moving

-Wash again with TSP

-Apply a good quality wax. I like Fleet Wax or 3 M's wax

-Change your pad often as in the compounding process.



I have done many boats using this process and if the gel coat is not too far gone is a lot less work, cheaper and lasts longer than paint. Come over and take a look at my 20 year old Trophy. She shines like new.



If you paint and are experienced, spray. I have rolled and tipped, which may be easier, but you get a "Six Foot Job" at best.



YMMV

Tom


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## answer24 (Jan 15, 2008)

checkout perfection by pettit ,this is a two part urathane paint much harder than brightside and will last longer .price it at boatfix.com best price around.It is made to be rolled and tipped or sprayed


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## bamachem (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks for the pointers.

The problem with the existing gelcoat is that the previous owner had a name on the side of the boat. Where the name was, and the former registration numbers, and the cape horn stickers, etc, is all raised because the surrounding gelcoat has oxidized over the last 15+ years and is now a mil or more lower than where the stickers were. I know that I could block sand them down and then buff, but to be honest, I want to add some color as well. I can also spray gelcoat, but it's less forgiving and MUCH more work than just using a good quality paint. I figure that I'll have this boat at least 2-3 more years, and possibly as long as 5, but by then, my boys will be older and the 17 will be more crowded. It will be time to move up to the 20'-22' range by then.

I ended up going with the Interlux Perfection based on reviews that I read online. Apparently, the Brightside is "good" as far as ease of application and shine goes, but it's nothing compared to a good finish on the Perfection line of paints. I found some side-by-side pics of the two paints that were applied by the same person using the same method: roll and tip. The Perfection was just that - perfection. The Brightside was OK, but it was definitely a 6-foot paint job.

I bought2qts of Fighting Lady Yellow Perfectionpaint, 1qt of the 2333 thinner, and the matching Interlux primer all from http://www.wholesalemarine.com/for $153 shipped. The paint is good for 260 sq.ft. per half-gallon when rolled. I figure that I have about 60 sq.ft. of surface that I want to cover. Would a quart have done the job? Probably. However, I'm going to use some of the paint to tint the primer (better color depth), and then I'm going to spray, which also yeilds less coverage and I didn't want to run out w/ an incomplete job. I should have things here by Thursday, and I just may start the block-sanding process on Saturday.

I'll make sure to post pics along the way.


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## bamachem (Oct 2, 2007)

Last thing... On the demarkation between the gelcoat and the new paint. I'm planning on keeping the paint right at the water line, then covering the transition w/ a vinyl tape (but in a medium gray to match the bump rialalong thetop of the hull) kinda-like on this Sea Craft. Notice that the color is just above the chine all the way to the front - that's pretty much the same line that I'm planning on following. Anybody see any issues w/ doing that?


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## bamachem (Oct 2, 2007)

After sanding, sanding, and more sanding, then a coat of primer, then more sanding, and sanding again, I finally got the first coat on it today:


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

Andy, I believe that now you have realized the rule to painting a boat. 99 % preperation and 1% painting.


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## bamachem (Oct 2, 2007)

You could say that it's been "reinforced". I've been painting for a long time, but this is the first to use a roller on a boat!


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## bamachem (Oct 2, 2007)

turned out GREAT!



I gotta get some better pics!


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## Pass Time (Feb 6, 2009)

Looks like an awesome job man!


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## SquidBrand (Nov 10, 2009)

Man I have a 94 and gel coat still looks good? But I guess you wanted some color. Wish I could see the pix.


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