# Fertilizer 13-0-13



## Outside9 (Apr 30, 2008)

Been looking around Florida stores pricing fertilizer and they all tell me in Florida you can no longer buy 13-13-13 or 8-8-8. I think the missing ingredient is phosphate.

My understanding is Alabama still sells it though.

Anyone else been seeing this?

This is all I can find on it.

http://washingtonindependent.com/11...o-industrial-and-phosphate-research-institute


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## PensacolaEd (Oct 3, 2007)

We just put a bag of 13-13-13 on one of our Food Plots. Not sure where the member got the bag from, but it might be worth calling aroung to the feed stores and seeing who has it.


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## Emerald Ghost (Mar 11, 2008)

*triple 13*

I just ordered our 13-13-13 from our supplier in Louisville Alabama. Said he had plenty, and it was either $13.75 or $14.75 a bag.


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## 706Z (Mar 30, 2011)

The feed&seed store across from 5 flags race track on pineforest rd. has it.


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## Grassflatsfisher (Oct 3, 2007)

Mannings feed and seed in Milton has both. Just bought a pallet worth last week.


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## bienville47 (Mar 24, 2010)

*ferlizer 13-13-13 ect.*

Florida legislature is coming down hard on fertilizer users and are in the process of restricting certain components of fertlizer and who and where they can be used, even the lawn maintance people will have to be certified to put fertlizer on lawns in the near future.


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## Outside9 (Apr 30, 2008)

I just found out I was wrong, or somewhat wrong.

Certain feed stores like Co-ops, Baker Farm Center etc. still carry it.

Lowes, Home Depot, Wal-Mart etc. are not allowed to sell it. some llicense require, the lady told me.

13-13-13 is 14.00 a bag in Baker.


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## Crop Doctor (Sep 3, 2011)

I'm an agronomist for a local crop protection supply company. If you try to purchase fertilizer form a store who's main market is turf grass (box stores and nuseries) they will have a "0" in the middle number. The reason for this is Centipede and St. Augistine grass get a disease called centipend decline. It is cause by having to much phosphate, the middle number, applied to the turf resulting in thinning and death of the turf. How ever row crops need phosphate, particulary early in the growth stage. The Sandyer the soil the more phosphate it will retain from year to year and the more potash it will need. Ther more clay the soil contains the more potash it will retain and the more phosphate it will need. Most crop input retail outlets carry a complete fertilizer( all three numbers). sorry to get lenghtly, just thought you would like to know. 
A soil sample is just as important for your soil as blood work is when you go to the doctor.

If there are any other questions fertilizer, seed, chemical, or tillage practices please just ask.


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## Grassflatsfisher (Oct 3, 2007)

Crop Doc...good info!

Got a question for you. How much benefit does using 13-13-13 have over using say a 8-8-8? I've used both and can't tell the difference in growth or production. Ive actually heard/read lime and ph makes more difference than fertilizer does. Whats your thoughts?


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## BOGIA (Oct 7, 2007)

yea grassflatss,ive used it all and cant tell the difference.i bought 10-10-10 this year cause it was a couple bucks cheaper.ive even had just as good of luck not putting any fertilizer out and just puting a good bit of amonite out a month or so after planting and it looks just as good.


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## Crop Doctor (Sep 3, 2011)

Lime is the base of all good soil fertility. If your pH is not in the correct range then no amount of fertilizer will help your crop. In other words if your pH is not correct there is no reason to fertilize unless you like throwing away money. 

There is no difference between 13-13-13 and 8-8-8 other that the concentration of N, P and K. Think of it in terms of % alcohol in beer. The higher the % alcohol the less quantity it takes to reach your goal. Here is an example; lets say your soil sample calls for 80 units of nitrogen, phosphate and potash per acre. You would need to apply 625 lbs per acre of 13-13-13 or 1000 lbs of 8-8-8 to get equal amounts of N, P, and K per acre.
Fertilizer is watered down with filler i.e. Rock. So you are paying for rock when you by some lower analysis fertilizers.

All 13-13-13 and 10-10-10 are not created equal. Some are blends and some are homogenized (Rainbow). If you take a hand full of blended 13-13-13 there will be 4 different looking ingredients. One of the ingredients is filler. In a hand full of homogenized fertilizer each prill is 13-13-13 and contains minor elements. The homogenized is the top shelf product.

There are many ways some companies confuse their customers. The cheap clover or the specialty seed in small bags are coated. The inoculants are a must for legumes, however when you by a 50 lb bag of clover or biologic there is not 50 lbs of seed in the bag. Look at the % live seed on the tag, it will be around 30 lb the rest is $0.01 worth of clay and some cheap fungicide. This makes the seed cost about 5X.


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## hogdogs (Apr 19, 2010)

As an old lawn and ornamental pest control tech, I can attest to the results of the better ferts and the use of EME (essential minor elements) and such...

I don't know the technical details as crop doc does but I do know I could steal accounts up and down the street I had accounts on with the quality products and perfect application of each...

Brent


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## Outside9 (Apr 30, 2008)

Crop Doctor said:


> Lime is the base of all good soil fertility. If your pH is not in the correct range then no amount of fertilizer will help your crop. In other words if your pH is not correct there is no reason to fertilize unless you like throwing away money.
> 
> There is no difference between 13-13-13 and 8-8-8 other that the concentration of N, P and K. Think of it in terms of % alcohol in beer. The higher the % alcohol the less quantity it takes to reach your goal. Here is an example; lets say your soil sample calls for 80 units of nitrogen, phosphate and potash per acre. You would need to apply 625 lbs per acre of 13-13-13 or 1000 lbs of 8-8-8 to get equal amounts of N, P, and K per acre.
> Fertilizer is watered down with filler i.e. Rock. So you are paying for rock when you by some lower analysis fertilizers.
> ...


When should you put lime out? Is it to late to put out just before you plant or after you plant. Someone told me you need to lime months or even the year before.

Thanks


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## Crop Doctor (Sep 3, 2011)

This is true. However you have to get started sometime so there is no bad time to apply lime. Lime must have water i.e. rainfall to start working. The more rain the faster the lime will work. In production agricultural we will apply lime in the winter for the following spring. Appling nitrogen will also lower the soil pH at a faster rate. 

We will apply lime on our food plots now for this fall. It is best to start a schedule and repeat every year.


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## HisName (Nov 29, 2009)

went by Southern Mill this morning [ formerly Dixie Mill] on hwy 97 Molino.
they have plenty of 13-13-13 I think they said $14.99

I think I will plant plenty of Chicory in my mix this year. is it worth the extra cost?


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