# DIY Bait Tube



## JD7.62

I want to thank Fisherdad1 for making me one. I like it so much I decided to make one my self for other people to use when we go out together.

It works great and is simple to make for just a few bucks.

First step is to gather the materials. I got them at Lowes. They have pre-cut two ft sections of three inch pvc pipe. You will also need two three inch PVC floor drain covers, some PVC glue and some rope. When picking the covers insert a few into your pipe and pick two that arent too tight.










You will also need a couple tools, I used a dremel with a cut off wheel and you will need a drill. The drill can also be used instead of the dremel for cutting the slits in the tube.

First step is cut slits in the tube, the dremel made quick work of this. Before you start cutting take a visual reference of how far the drain covers go into the tube because you dont want to cut in that area.










Next drill a hole large enough for your rope to pass through on each end of the tube. The holes need to be roughly in line with each other and again we need to make sure not to drill the holes where the drain coverers will be.

Cut about a two ft piece of rope and insert it in the end of your tube and out the hole you drilled. Tie it off so it wont come back through. Insert the other end of the rope into the center of a floor drain and glue it in place with PVC glue.



















Now we are going to make the cap. Cut a piece of rope a little over a foot long. Fold it in half and make a loop. Sorry I dont know what the knot is called, I just copied Fisherdad. Insert one end of the rope into the floor drain at the edge and knot it off. Do the same to the other end on the rope on the other edge of the drain. This is the "handle."



















Set the cap to the side. Then take another couple feet of rope and insert it into the tube and out the other hole you drilled and knot it off just like the other rope on the end cap. Then run that rope through the middle of the floor drain and through the loop on the handle. This is so that you wont lose the cap when you take it off after its tied/clipped to your kayak.










Once the glue dries you are ready to use. You can put clips on the end of your ropes but I like to just tie it off as I am constantly moving it around.

The tube keeps everything from shrimp to cigar minnows alive. Just remember that with the larger fish that cant turn around in the tube to put them in tail first so they dont drown.


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## Fishermon

great post. thanks for sharing Jd... do you think 4" pvc will be better or is it to big.


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## JD7.62

Fishermon said:


> great post. thanks for sharing Jd... do you think 4" pvc will be better or is it to big.


It could be but remember the bigger it is the more drag its going to create. This is MUCH better then one of those flo-troll bait buckets as the reduced drag is where the real advantage is. Not sure how much more drag the four inch one would be over this one, worth the shot for some one interested in building both and testing them out. Im happy with the three incher. Its kept over a couple dozen cigs alive and a good sized hardtail still fits.

Only thing to watch out for is to keep it off the sand. If sand grains get in between the cap and tube it can be a PITA to open.


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## Razzorduck

I used 4" pipe about 18" long so I could keep a couple of hardtails in it.


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## rfh21

I'm going to have to make one of these. I have been using a regular bait bucket and just hold it between my legs and taking breaks to dunk it and get fresh water every now and then to avoid the drag.


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## fishnfrenzy

What a great Idea. My next project for sure. I HATE the drag of the traditional frabil trollers!


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## oxbeast1210

Sweet thanks for the post


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## wackydaddy

I'd imagine this could turn into a chum tube if you find a way to weight it and keep the top drain lid on but removeable.


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## PompChaser315

Ive used a piece of 4 inch PVC and it worked just fine. I also zip tied some foam from the inside of an old PFD to the top of the tube so it would float behind me. That way if you fish in real skinny water the tube would not drag in the mud/sand or whatever.. I fished alot in the backwater on the east coast and the mud killed my shrimp every time.. The foam
worked perfect..


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## BlackJeep

There are several versions of this on the forum going back a ways, but certainly still worth posting. Mine has a screw in cap and I have no holes through the sides except one for my rope knot. Bait doesn't die unless I pack it too full and then its usually only 1 or 2 unfortunate ones that get caught in the wrong position in the tube. 

I also have 2 carabiners in my rope. One for the end when I'm towing it and another further down when I want to keep it close to the yak and clear of any lines, rudders, and turbo fins.


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## JD7.62

FUPAGUNT said:


> Ive used a piece of 4 inch PVC and it worked just fine. I also zip tied some foam from the inside of an old PFD to the top of the tube so it would float behind me. That way if you fish in real skinny water the tube would not drag in the mud/sand or whatever.. I fished alot in the backwater on the east coast and the mud killed my shrimp every time.. The foam
> worked perfect..


These float. I usually only get sand in it when Im hitting the beach and I forget to put it in the kayak.


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## PCfisher66

Thanks for the idea, yeah I hate the drag of the regular buckets too.


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## johnf

Could you use the lighter weight drain tubes instead of the heavier pvc that you are using? Wouldn't that have a little less drag as well as weight?


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## oxbeast1210

I need to make one soon


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## oxbeast1210

DO most of you drag it behind the kayak or next to it?


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## rfh21

Made one of these tonight gearing up for spring. Looks good and really easy project, figured I would give such a good idea a bump for others


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## vickroid

rfh21 said:


> Made one of these tonight gearing up for spring. Looks good and really easy project, figured I would give such a good idea a bump for others


Glad you bumped this. I just got a mariner and rigging it up this weekend. Going to make a bait tube now as well!! Thanks:thumbup:


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## Stressless

Same design different end to get bait in/out. Also highly suggest one use drain schedule PVC not schedule 40 (much too heavy).


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## rufus1138

im going to do some thinking/modifying to this idea in the future to make a more streamlined model. thanks for the bump tho, i needed to see a good baseline.


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## jasoncooperpcola

I might try this. My flo.troll goes underwater when moving around. But the flotroll makes a good drift chute! I have been setting it on my bulkhead behind me when moving. Congrats on the Mariner Vickroid.


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## FLWhaler

Stream line idea. Use the pointed top that they use on pilings and drill holes in it for water flow.


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## rufus1138

yep, thinking about other ways to increase flow and shape to minimize drag.


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## JD7.62

Drag is pretty much a non issue with these. Then again I pedal instead of paddle. The screw in caps are probably more secure but the design I use is much faster. If that bull dolphin pops up next to your yak and you dont have a live cig ready to pitch to him, you can just pop off the cap and pop it back on in a snap. Ive never had the cap come off on its own either.

Either way, these are 1000% better then a flo-troll or other bait bucket.


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## johnsonbeachbum

So I have been eggineering my bait tube for several weeks now. Getting all the "right parts" and incorporating ideas from others into mine.
I wanted the tube to be on the starboard side, bait retrieve with one hand and hydrodynamic. Used 4" drain pipe vs 3" drain pipe because 4" was cheaper than the 3", why I do not know.
I think I am also going to build a shorter one with the grated end cap instead of the side door.
So here it is:


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## COALTRAIN

Good lord you put some time into that one. Looks sweet.


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## BlackJeep

My apologies. I don't mean to be a prick or a buzzkill Johnsonbeachbum. Great job in putting that together. It looks great, but there's no way I would try to pull that around offshore for miles and miles. I may be wrong but I'm guessing you'll find the drag on that thing is going to suck really bad even with the streamline funnel end.


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## johnsonbeachbum

Has to pull easier than the flat ended ones.
Maybe I will tapper the floatation ends too, LOL.


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## COALTRAIN

Not sure. It looks like a solid design and wouldnt be much drag cause it floats. Im just wodering if it floats too high. Meaning if only half submerged means only half the bait you can stuff in it. Would be interested in seeing the difference in the two. Also would change the door on side to a open end type. But still think its solid. But hey Ive never used one before so maybe im full of poop.


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## johnsonbeachbum

I figure I can always trim and make the floatation shorter until the whole thing is riding at the ideal level. Without taking it apart to do so. The floatation on the sides keeps the door "up" and also prevents the pvc from clanking on the hull when along side.


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## JD7.62

The flat ones like I use are have very little causing drag as they are more holes then plastic. I use these for front and back so the water easily flows through it.

Also your flotation is going to slow you down considerably. Very cool design but I would try to ditch the flotation (mine floats with out it) and try to make it open up at the end because you will need to put the fish in tail first so they dont drown. Try it out as is and tweak it some, it looks like you have the drive and intuition to perhaps come up with a game changer!


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## johnsonbeachbum

okay, since the solid end cap was not yet glued on, I replaced it with a grate cap instead. Then I had some surgical tubing on hand and used that to secure it.
With one hand I can grab the bottom edge of the cap and kinda pull and swing it up onto the top where it stays until I reverse the action.
Will see how the ST'ing lasts in the water and sun.
Might have to change it to shock cord instead.
Took the exterior floats off and will see how it rides in the water.
If it clunks on the hull, I took some more ST'ing and a straight tube connecter and made a ring/hoop to roll onto the bait tube. It can be rolled along the length of the tube so it is in just the right anti-clunk spot. (not in pics)

The other pictures are a bait tube I aborted finishing.
The side door slides when you lift the strap enough so that the SS machine screw heads clear the holes in the mother tube. But it requires two hands to operate.
The nose cone was too time consuming for my patience after deburring and bending.


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## WhereYak?

All good designs, but here's a suggestion.

I certainly didn't invent this, but here's my version of a bait tube. 

All materials came from LOWES. I made the Bait Tube about 30". LOWES sells a 5' section of ABS pipe so you can make two tubes up to 30" . 
I also have a tube that is a little shorter so it will fit into my checked suitcase for air travel. I just pack clothes or tackle inside so it really doesn't take up too much room.

1. Use black ABS instead of PVC--ABS floats!
2. I used 3" pipe which is great for big offshore baits. Big baits like hard tails and Caballito (Mexico) can't turn around or move too much in the tube. Place them in tail first and they face into the "current" and the tube works like a tuna tube while trolling. 
3. Put a drain grate on the bottom. This allows good water flow and you don't need to drill a bottom cap. This also allows you to temporarily put a cap on the bottom and hold it vertically to keep water in. This works great for getting bait from a bait shop or bait bucket and carrying it to your launched 'yak. It will leak some, but gives you enough time to get the tube in the water-make sure to remove the cap!
4. Put a female threaded connector on the top.
5. Use a male threaded square top plug for the top. Drill 1/4" or 5/16" holes throughout to allow water flow through the tube.
6. Drill a center hole in the plug and one through the side of the top connector.
7. Run a piece of 1/4" nylon rope through the plug.
8. Tie a knot about three inches from the end of the rope inside of the plug. Put the rope through the hole in the connector from the inside of the tube..
9. Tie another knot from the outside tight up against the tube where the rope exits the tube.
10. Adjust the rope to your desired length and tie a stainless carabiner on the other end.
11. The plug/cap can now be easily unscrewed to open the tube and you can't loose your cap.
12. Don't overcrowd the tube and your bait should stay quite lively.

Completed 30" long Bait Tube.











Bottom of Bait Tube with drain grate glued in.









Bottom of Bait Tube with removable cap.









Top of Bait Tube with top plug screwed in.









Top of Bait Tube with top unscrewed.










By using ABS instead of PVC, it floats right on top with most of the tube just below the water. It does not sink!

Here's a pic with the 'yak not moving. You can see the tube near the back of the 'yak. When pulling the tube along, it rides mostly just under the surface with the water flowing through it.

I've seen some versions that put a weight and a keel on it, but I haven't found that necessary.

Just make sure the glue you use is made for ABS.


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## rfh21

johnsonbeachbum that thing looks pretty badass, like a rocket. Once you get it fine tuned you might have a serious product there. I went the simple and cheap route JD had living in an apartment with limited tools. Personally I like to keep it simple with my kayak cause that's part of why I love it so much.


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## JD7.62

WhereYak? Ive seen lots of west coast guys painting their bait tubes black. Why is that?


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## WhereYak?

I have no idea, I even wondered if the black would be too hot--but it's not.

Sometimes there's no telling why those left-coast guys do certain things! (lol)

I'm a Louisiana coast guy, but have a place near Perdido and regularly get over your way to fish.

The ABS pipe is black so there is no need to paint. ABS has a thin layer of foam in the pipe when it's made--that's why it floats. You won't see the foam because it's very thin and when you cut the pipe, the saw blade just melts the foam into the plastic at the pipe edge.

The floating tube stays up top and not down under where it will more easily tangle with a line/fighting fish. I also think it's easier to tow than a sinking one. I have no problem with the amount of drag- I also pedal. It does bang the side of the yak every once in a while and I may steal the surgical tubing idea as a bumper or two.


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## johnsonbeachbum

Another good idea there WhereYak?
 If you get the right pvc sched 40, it floats too, just like the ABS, they call it "cellular core" pvc pipe. 
And the floating PVC pipe at Lowe's is cheaper than ABS.
And it does not absorb heat from the sun like black ABS.
No holes in the sides and slapping the solid cap on the bottom is a good idea for transporting the bait.

 No threaded caps or plugs for me. One grain of sand or anything else and you have to virtually use a wrench to get it off. Plus you have to use both hands to open it if it opens easy.

Might as well use another grate style end cap with holes already in it and also not as difficult to open. Can also open with one hand.
​


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## WhereYak?

Thanks, I've fished mine from the Keys to Baja Mexico and no problems for me with the heat or getting the top open.

Obviously there's no right or wrong way and whatever works best for you is the way to go. Thanks for the info and suggestions.

Now lets get this darn weather straight so we can go catch some fish!!!


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## rufus1138

amen to that


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## Fisherdad1

JD did a great DIY on the bait tube. I did not see this discussion when it started but since this was my original design I wanted to chime in and address some misconceptions I saw in some of the posts. There were some comments about the PVC being too heavy. This design is using the pre-cut, 2 foot length, 3" diameter PVC FOAM CORE pipe that you get in the drain pipe area at Lowes / Home Depot, not traditional PVC. It has the thickness of Schedule 40, but the foam core is more bouyant. Also, get the Souix Cheif brand of end caps. They fit much less snug and have a slight taper that makes them easier to insert. 

My original design has a lot more / longer slots in it. I use a rotozip to cut the slots. I mark the ends and middle with painter tape when cutting so i know where to begin and end the cuts. As JD mentioned, you do not want to cut too close to the end where the drain caps insert. My final product looks like the picture below, with tons of water flow. And as JD said, the drag is virtually nothing and it is super easy and quick to get into this tube. Simple, cheap, no complex engineering, miniscual drag, cap is threaded on the rope and can't get lost. I think it is a winning design if i do say so myself.
- Fisherdad1








To open the tube just tug the rope handle. It is threaded on the rope that connects it to the yak so it can not fall off!









Pic shows typr of pipe, tape to show where to cut slots and the end caps (grates) used.









pic showing slots fully cut.


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## Fisherdad1

*bump*

bump


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## Jgatorman

look up Varmint guard for end caps


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