# DIY ROV ... who's in?



## Hangover

http://openrov.com/page/openrov-2-0?page=2

This looks cool and under $900?? Wow.

Possibilities are endless....check up on your favorite (or secret) spots, diver safety, underwater exploration....


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## JoshH

drop a go pro on a downrigger weight. could rig up a flash light on that too.


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## sealark

For the price of the rig just take dive clasess and go look at the wrecks first hand. Much better view.


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## Timber63

I made this about three years ago. It sends live video to the boat with 150 feet of cable. Cost around seventy five dollars to build. The skids are filled with lead shot, and I can adjust the tilt of the camera by the adjustment holes on the top. We can slow troll it behind the boat or just drop it down.


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## Billybob+

My goodness man! you built that for $75??

and what depth would you say it's good to?

what camera do you have internal?

got any plans you'd be willing to share?

thanks



Timber63 said:


> I made this about three years ago. It sends live video to the boat with 150 feet of cable. Cost around seventy five dollars to build. The skids are filled with lead shot, and I can adjust the tilt of the camera by the adjustment holes on the top. We can slow troll it behind the boat or just drop it down.


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## WhackUmStackUm

Timber63 said:


> I made this about three years ago. It sends live video to the boat with 150 feet of cable. Cost around seventy five dollars to build. The skids are filled with lead shot, and I can adjust the tilt of the camera by the adjustment holes on the top. We can slow troll it behind the boat or just drop it down.


Very nice!

Do you still use it?


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## WhackUmStackUm

I'm willing to help or provide advice on a ROV project.

New fishing camera systems with lights, carrying case, and a LCD screen for the boat can be had on EBay for $150-250. Search for "fishing camera."

I am thinking about building a fishing camera attached to a pan-tilt system that you can move with a joystick. I just need to drop a camera, pan around for a quick peek, take a picture and then move on to the next spot. I'm hoping it will be quicker than diving each spot I find.


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## Timber63

WhackUmStackUm

Do you still use it?
Yes, we use it when we make a Florida trip to the boneyard.


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## Timber63

Billybob+ I found the camera on ebay for thirty dollars, the housing is all pvc. Not really sure about the depth, we have only sent it down to 95 feet. I don't have any plans for the build. It has been a trial and era thing. The first one filled with water the first time out. The one in the pic is my second one.


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## Billybob+

would you share more info, detailed. Like which camera you have and what PVC you built your ROV out of. And how you sealed the Umbilical entry
don't mean to derail the OP so if you'd be interested in sharing feel free to PM me, I'd sure appreciate spending some time talkin' to ya about it if you don't mind sharing

thanks


thanks


Timber63 said:


> Billybob+ I found the camera on ebay for thirty dollars, the housing is all pvc. Not really sure about the depth, we have only sent it down to 95 feet. I don't have any plans for the build. It has been a trial and era thing. The first one filled with water the first time out. The one in the pic is my second one.


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## Firefishvideo

Hangover said:


> http://openrov.com/page/openrov-2-0?page=2
> 
> This looks cool and under $900?? Wow.
> 
> Possibilities are endless....check up on your favorite (or secret) spots, diver safety, underwater exploration....


I took a good look at the info they have on their website. Seems like what you get for the $900 is kind of a lightweight toy. 
-The tether is a lightweight , unprotected roll of 2 strand wire...which will surely get tangled/cut pretty quickly.
-motors/thrusters are hobby grade brushless dc motors - minimally protected from corrosion with hot glue and heat shrink tubing. These would be ok in clean fresh water for a while....but probably would not last more than a few trips in our harsh salt environment.
-you will need a laptop to run it...so unless you already have one - the cost goes up.

Its a cool project, but its just a starting point. Most people will just build it as an expensive toy or learning tool.
If you wanted to have something that was tough enough to use regularly.....you would have to start with the electronics package and re-design the rest yourself.
This project is still in its infancy....hopefully they will improve the information on their site, and offer a wider range of components and software - probably 3rd party produced.


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## Fish-n-Fur

Timber63 said:


> I made this about three years ago. It sends live video to the boat with 150 feet of cable. Cost around seventy five dollars to build. The skids are filled with lead shot, and I can adjust the tilt of the camera by the adjustment holes on the top. We can slow troll it behind the boat or just drop it down.


Timber: i'm interested. what type cable, monitor and/or interface did you use? I like the idea of vert/horz viewing, and getting a "quick look" and knowing if blowing bubbles or sinking a line is worth my time...or move on. Thanks for your feedback - PM me if you'd rather.
jp

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WhackUmStackUm said:


> I'm willing to help or provide advice on a ROV project.
> 
> New fishing camera systems with lights, carrying case, and a LCD screen for the boat can be had on EBay for $150-250. Search for "fishing camera."
> 
> I am thinking about building a fishing camera attached to a pan-tilt system that you can move with a joystick. I just need to drop a camera, pan around for a quick peek, take a picture and then move on to the next spot. I'm hoping it will be quicker than diving each spot I find.


'Um2, do you have an engineering or electronics background, or just high aspirations? ...not meant to rattle you, just an honest question...with you willing to give advice. otherwise, sounds like we have a similar interest in this, as well as Bbob and perhaps others. Have you already made one of these and looking to trade-up, or just starting out like the rest of us? 
jp


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## Timber63

The video cable has four wires, two is for power (pos and neg) and the other two is for the video. The camera is a waterproof to 200 feet video camera I found on ebay that was being sold as a backup camera. I used 3m marine caulking around the camera and the cable. I added thin layers of caulk around the camera and cable so that it would dry. The housing is two inch pvc. On the camera end I cut a thin round piece of pvc with a hole cut in the center for the camera and glued it to the 2" coupler. The cable runs through 1/2" and is epoxied into the side of the 2", then filled with caulk. I added a 1/2" cap on the end and drilled a small hole in the end so that the cable would have a tight fit. The skids are 3/4", and are filled with lead shot. The legs for the skids are epoxied into the 2" couplers. Only drill thru the coupler and not the 2" piece. The fin on the back is made with Plexiglas and is epoxied on the back. I would like to add a domed nose to the front, but I haven't found anything that will work. I then mounted a 7" monitor on the inside top of an old tackle bag so I can put the camera and line all in one bag. Here is a pic of the monitor.


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## Billybob+

THAT is TOO cool! so the ROV (submersible section) is not a 1 atmosphere capsule, the camera is rated to 200 feet so you basically sink it wet?

I'm just wanting to completely understand because with your permission, I'd like to copy it.

thanks!!!





Timber63 said:


> The video cable has four wires, two is for power (pos and neg) and the other two is for the video. The camera is a waterproof to 200 feet video camera I found on ebay that was being sold as a backup camera. I used 3m marine caulking around the camera and the cable. I added thin layers of caulk around the camera and cable so that it would dry. The housing is two inch pvc. On the camera end I cut a thin round piece of pvc with a hole cut in the center for the camera and glued it to the 2" coupler. The cable runs through 1/2" and is epoxied into the side of the 2", then filled with caulk. I added a 1/2" cap on the end and drilled a small hole in the end so that the cable would have a tight fit. The skids are 3/4", and are filled with lead shot. The legs for the skids are epoxied into the 2" couplers. Only drill thru the coupler and not the 2" piece. The fin on the back is made with Plexiglas and is epoxied on the back. I would like to add a domed nose to the front, but I haven't found anything that will work. I then mounted a 7" monitor on the inside top of an old tackle bag so I can put the camera and line all in one bag. Here is a pic of the monitor.


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## Billybob+

Is this similar to the camera you use?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-PSCHD60...070055?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item51b3cf7ae7

thanks


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## Timber63

The housing stays dry, not sure what depth it could take. It is sch 40 pvc, so it would probably take more pressure than the camera. Yes, copy away!! This is what the camera looks like.


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## Billybob+

what's the brand and model of your camera...your display too for that matter I can tell it's a Pyle but not much else 

thanks bunches for the help



Timber63 said:


> The housing stays dry, not sure what depth it could take. It is sch 40 pvc, so it would probably take more pressure than the camera. Yes, copy away!! This is what the camera looks like.


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## Lexcore

Timber63 nice set up are you still using it?


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## WhackUmStackUm

Fish-n-Fur said:


> WhackUmStackUm said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking about building a fishing camera attached to a pan-tilt system that you can move with a joystick. I just need to drop a camera, pan around for a quick peek, take a picture and then move on to the next spot. I'm hoping it will be quicker than diving each spot I find.
> 
> 
> 
> 'Um2, do you have an engineering or electronics background, or just high aspirations? ...not meant to rattle you, just an honest question...with you willing to give advice. otherwise, sounds like we have a similar interest in this, as well as Bbob and perhaps others. Have you already made one of these and looking to trade-up, or just starting out like the rest of us?
> jp
Click to expand...

LOL! - I like the "just have high aspirations" questions. Yeah, I have experience. BS in Physics and am a computer programmer. Kids and I build robots on a regular basis. Built much of my side-scan sonar gear. See my other side-scan posts under the "Reefs and Wrecks" section of the Forum. I have just about everything needed to build an ROV: oscilloscopes, 3D printer, 3D scanner, lathe, milling machine, and Arduinos.


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## Fish-n-Fur

WhackUmStackUm said:


> LOL! - I like the "just have high aspirations" questions. Yeah, I have experience. BS in Physics and am a computer programmer. Kids and I build robots on a regular basis. Built much of my side-scan sonar gear. See my other side-scan posts under the "Reefs and Wrecks" section of the Forum. I have just about everything needed to build an ROV: oscilloscopes, 3D printer, 3D scanner, lathe, milling machine, and Arduinos.


ok Pascal...i'm a little concerned about your talent and aspirations, since you didn't mention that you also have the following necessities to build an underH20 camera: a camera, rope, cables, connectors, PVC, glue, soldering gun & solder, plexiglass, and a reel or box to store it all.  
Just a little ribbing for ya. I looked for the 2 beer glasses clanking, but you'll have to settle for this :beer: Prost!, and good luck! :rockon:
p.s. - i don't care how you hook up all that stuff you mentioned, i don't think you're gonna see much wit it! ...and it's gonna be HEAAVVY! :lol::laughing:


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## WhackUmStackUm

The camera board I would like to recommend is the Sony 600TVL. Search Ebay for "600TVL board". Be sure to get the 0.001 Lux version, not the 0.1 or 0.01 Lux.


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## Timber63

Billybob--I sent you a PM


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## Billybob+

Thanks For the good info Timber!

I may hit you up with more questions. I could see where this would save me a lot of dives that I'd rather not make!



Timber63 said:


> Billybob--I sent you a PM


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## Timber63

Billybob+ said:


> Thanks For the good info Timber!
> 
> I may hit you up with more questions. I could see where this would save me a lot of dives that I'd rather not make!


You're welcome!! That's what we use it for, spot checking for new spots to dive for fossils.


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