# 1988 Crestliner



## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

Picked this rig up today for $500. Trailer is solid besides 2 rotten bunks and hull seems to be solid as well. 

Interior is gonna need to be gutted and completely redone. I'm think carpet. Or maybe carpet the front deck and bed liner the floor? Has a 50hp force (the junk of all motors). Don't know if it runs but prob not. 

Gonna rebuild it for trolling for crappie and catfishing. I might even take it out in the bay's. 

Are any of you guys familiar with these old crestliners? Anything I need to watch out for? The boat says its a SuperHawk and has a Blue Fin decal on it as well. It's hard to find anything online about an 1988 Crestliner SuperHawk Bluefin. 

Any insight would be appreciated. 

Stay tuned for pics as I rebuild this tank. 


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

That boat has allot of potential if the hull has no problems. Good luck with the rebuild.


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

Figured out why I couldn't find anything on an 88 Crestliner. Turns out it is an 88 Spectrum SuperHawk Bluefin and the Force came with it straight from the factory.


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

You can told they sold together from the matching racing stripes. Should take the bay just fine. I wouldn't put carpet in it. That's a disaster for salt water.


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

panhandleslim said:


> You can told they sold together from the matching racing stripes. Should take the bay just fine. I wouldn't put carpet in it. That's a disaster for salt water.



Yeah you're right. I thought about the bay carpet thing. I mostly fish freshwater. I'd prob only drop it in salt a time or two. Still undecided though. 


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## Fish-n-Fur (Apr 2, 2009)

Ocean Master said:


> That boat has allot of potential if the hull has no problems. Good luck with the rebuild.


+1. Looks like AL trlr, if so that's a + for ya. Remove all hardware, then carpet and any wood, consider making it a center console for 360 degree gunnel access. Consider motor upgrade - or use this 1 until it quits or gets too expensive to repair. The trolling motor mount is a plus, if needed, otherwise consider anchor or down pole (e.g. talon or other). in/outdoor carpet and adhesive rots and needs to be replace - every 3-5yrs in my past experience. 
Ask the gurus on here as u go, and Good Luck! :thumbup: You'll be busy for a few minutes, for sure, but will gain knowledge and know what you have in it. :thumbsup:


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## RMS (Dec 9, 2008)

We all like to make fun of the Force outboards, but my actual experience with them has been quite favorable. They are a relatively simple design, and that can be a plus for an older motor.
What really matters is what kind of shape it is in.


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

So I took on the task of replacing the rollers on the trailer today. I'm gonna be trailer it from Gainesville to Holmes County the week of Thanksgiving so I'm trying to tidy up the trailer. 

The current rollers were complete garbage. Dry rotted and seemed that the boat was sitting metal to metal. 









The bolt someone has put through wasn't galvanized so it was rusted really bad and the pin they put through the ends was rushed to the bolt. Really a pain in the tail for something that should have been a 5 minute job. Hammered for an hour or so on 3 rollers. I'm sure I'm popular with my apartment neighbors lol. 

Put 1/2 inch galvanized boats through it and new rollers so it's good to go. 

Went to grease my barrens and the tips are rusted over and won't take grease...figures. 

While I was climbing out from under the boat I noticed this beauty. Nice little hole in the aluminum. 
















I guess if rebuilding a boat was easy then everyone would do it. Oh well I'll take the challenge. 


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

RMS said:


> We all like to make fun of the Force outboards, but my actual experience with them has been quite favorable. They are a relatively simple design, and that can be a plus for an older motor.
> 
> What really matters is what kind of shape it is in.



If I can get it running then I plan to keep it unless I come across a really good deal. I'd like to upgrade to a 70hp maybe. 


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## CB541 (Jul 20, 2013)

Great website that has a lot of information on aluminium boats. Repairing and modifying.
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/


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## pappastratos (Oct 9, 2007)

heck yeah !! that will make a cool rig ! Lot easier to do a aluminum hull than a fiberglass one. The hole is no problem. When you gut the boat you can access it from the inside & make a good repair.


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

Yeah I'm gonna post this on tinboats. Just haven't gotten around to it. I've trolled that website for years. There's some cool stuff on there. 


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## Skivintage (Oct 27, 2014)

I restore old alum boats. Tin boats is a great resource. Also, I recommend painting the bottom with interlux 2000. It is expensive but it is a great barrier coat. Roll on some rust oleum bottom side paint from lowes $11.00 a qt over the interlux and you will have a great finish.

Fixing the hole is not hard, don't buy into the low temp brazing rod, it is horrible. Either patch it, or have someone weld a patch. Question is, why is it there. 

Crestliner uses a good quality alum. If the force runs, use it. Sure they were behind the times, but most run pretty good and they are simple. They smoke bad but no big deal there, you can use the walmart 2 stroke oil in them and save more money.

I'm glad to se another alum boat on the water.


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## Skivintage (Oct 27, 2014)

Alum boats are cool.


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## skiff89_jr (Apr 1, 2011)

Well I actually think I'm gonna post her back up for sale. Buddy is looking to sale his boat and it's too good of a deal to pass up. I really don't have the time to only work on it 1 or twice a month. I'm gonna post it up for sale as the complete rig and if it don't sell then i'll scrap the boat and motor and sell the trailer individually. I just put $200 tires on it so I think the trailer is worth $700.


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