# Removing Flex coat from a Rod blank



## HAG 90 10

What's the best way to remove flex coat from a rod that doesn't scratch the blank (razor blade)? I purchased a rod that is completely coated in it and want to rebuild the rod. Would heating it with hot water or a hair dryer help? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 



Darren


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## -=Desperado=-

> *HAG 90 10 (7/6/2009)*What's the best way to remove flex coat from a rod that doesn't scratch the blank (razor blade)? I purchased a rod that is completely coated in it and want to rebuild the rod. Would heating it with hot water or a hair dryer help? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Darren




Its a painful process.I have done a few.Your never gonna just get it off.It wasnt designed to come off that easy.If its a graphite rod just be real careful.Use a little heat from a torch and it wont hurt the graphite.Fiberglass and heat dont get along well so use a blow drier.



use a very dull wallpaper razor blade.You can even use the backside and be very careful not to splinter the rod.when taking off the guides just put on some heat and cut the threads and roll the guide off.



Keep in mind you are going to have to refinish the rod after you strip it.Alot of builders make the mistake of flexing the whole rod.

best way to refinish a rod is use a very clean rag and some Light build flex coat and just wipe the rod down with it.Let it dry and wet sand with 400 and than repeat the process.Let all that dry and than wrap it.dont put it on the rod to where it is dripping or use a drying machine and brush.It doesnt need to be that thick.just wipe it down as if you was cleaning it with acetone.


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## ElJay

Are you sure its flexcoat? Some oriental rod manufacturers use a urethane coating in the post wrap process rather than on the blank then a flex coat type epoxy on the wraps. saves them money and time. Like they pay so much for labor a few cents extra..... , well let me shut up about that.

If it is a 'flex coat' type product, its a problem as stated in the reply above. I have tried to repair somebody else's mess who used flexcoat or threadmaster on a whole rod and it takes two things: lots of time and a plastic knife. One of those el cheapo knives you get at sonic or macdonalds. Even then it does not all get off. Its not meant to come off, it holds thread on so the line guides stay in place!

If you do get most off and do a re wrap, teh result is ugly and you will want to fix that, then consider using Perma Gloss. PG just works way better on that application (sealing or covering the blank) than most stuff you will have access to. Flex Coat is only good on the wraps. cabelas sells pre pakaged single use two part thread sealants at about $1 a pack. It comes in two packets you tear the top off of and its pre measured. Works OK if you are not doing a whole bunch of rods.

Do a costing on your time etc, you may just be better off canibalising it for parts and getting yourself another blank, they are very inexpensive compared to the labor you are about to invest ( i would guess at least 30 plus hours).


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## Charlie2

> *ElJay (7/9/2009)*Are you sure its flexcoat? Some oriental rod manufacturers use a urethane coating in the post wrap process rather than on the blank then a flex coat type epoxy on the wraps. saves them money and time. Like they pay so much for labor a few cents extra..... , well let me shut up about that.
> 
> 
> 
> If it is a 'flex coat' type product, its a problem as stated in the reply above. I have tried to repair somebody else's mess who used flexcoat or threadmaster on a whole rod and it takes two things: lots of time and a plastic knife. One of those el cheapo knives you get at sonic or macdonalds. Even then it does not all get off. Its not meant to come off, it holds thread on so the line guides stay in place!
> 
> 
> 
> If you do get most off and do a re wrap, teh result is ugly and you will want to fix that, then consider using Perma Gloss. PG just works way better on that application (sealing or covering the blank) than most stuff you will have access to. Flex Coat is only good on the wraps. cabelas sells pre pakaged single use two part thread sealants at about $1 a pack. It comes in two packets you tear the top off of and its pre measured. Works OK if you are not doing a whole bunch of rods.
> 
> 
> 
> Do a costing on your time etc, you may just be better off canibalising it for parts and getting yourself another blank, they are very inexpensive compared to the labor you are about to invest ( i would guess at least 30 plus hours).




Good advice. Sometimes you have to just sand everything down and see how it looks. If it's real bad it's time to bite the bullet and consider buying a new blank. A lot of grunt work involved. C2


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## HAG 90 10

That's essentially what I have done. I took a hot air gun and removed the flex coat with a razor blade, very time consuming. Turns out the rod was two piece made to look like a one piece rod. The original rod blank is 6' vs. the 8' before the tear down. The person I purchased the rod from got it from the Flea Market in Midway. You are right, it would be less expensive and time consuming to buy a rod then rebuild one, but what fun is there in that? The 6' blank should make a dandy Kayak rod. Thanks for the replies.


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## chefpomp

I use a paint stripper gel from lowes or home depot. Cant remember the name butter comes in a copper and black can or a spray can. Make sure its rated to strip epoxy. I will say it on the can. If its epoxy it should bubble right up after about 15 minutes. Wipe it off and repeat if necessary. Use gloves, not latex. That stuff is brutal on hands. I have had real good luck with it on some rods and others it wont work hardly at all. Its always worth a try though.


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