# Yamaha flushing question



## Bay Ranger

I have an F250 Yamaha 4 stroke. When I connect my hose to the flush attachment on the motor I do not get any water discharge from the "tell tale" (pee hole). Plenty of water is coming out the lower unit but nothing through the "tell tale". Does this mean that the powerhead is not getting flushed?

I've tried to flush when the motor is up to temp (thinking that the thermostat might be closed and not allowing fresh water to flow through the powerhead), and in a tilted up position, and in the fully tilted down position. No matter what combination I try no water will come out of the tell tale.


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## Lieutenant ZKO

I get the same thing at the marina with the same engine. Usually it's from lack of water pressure. It starts to pee after like 10 mins. I'm curious too if it properly flushes the engine without peeing.


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## Bay Ranger

I forgot to mention that when the motor is running I have plenty of water flow out the tell tale.


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## Bay Ranger

Lieutenant ZKO said:


> I get the same thing at the marina with the same engine. Usually it's from lack of water pressure. It starts to pee after like 10 mins. I'm curious too if it properly flushes the engine without peeing.



This happens at my house. Is there not enough water pressure at my house with its normal city water pressure? 

I think that I've tried flushing for more that 10 mins and I never got any water from the tell tale.


Hopefully, someone with more knowledge than us will let us know if the motor is really getting flushed!


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## MrFish

If the engine is not running, then your impeller is not pushing water to the pee hole. Personally, I like muffs.


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## H2OMARK

MrFish said:


> If the engine is not running, then your impeller is not pushing water to the pee hole. Personally, I like muffs.


I think he's talking about the hose adapter on the motor itself. Mine will pee no issues without the motor running. I do have issues however if I use the wrong muffs on the motor. I've found that the duel head muffs that supply water to both intakes seem to work the best.


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## OHenry

Have the same issue and was told by my mechanic that its normalish, as long as it pee's in the water. Was told by another member that as long as water comes out of the prop, you're good to go also. Still would rather it came out all the time.


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## Lieutenant ZKO

Yea the flush system will definitely make it pee. I flush my 70 at the house and it comes out stronger than if the engine was running. But the engine is much smaller and it needs less pressure to fill the cavities inside the motor. I second dual muffs if you're having troubles.


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## flynavy812

Bay Ranger said:


> I have an F250 Yamaha 4 stroke. When I connect my hose to the flush attachment on the motor I do not get any water discharge from the "tell tale" (pee hole). Plenty of water is coming out the lower unit but nothing through the "tell tale". Does this mean that the powerhead is not getting flushed?
> 
> I've tried to flush when the motor is up to temp (thinking that the thermostat might be closed and not allowing fresh water to flow through the powerhead), and in a tilted up position, and in the fully tilted down position. No matter what combination I try no water will come out of the tell tale.


I think I know your problem. First off, don't run motor while only hooked to flush port. I've seen in person that it destroys impellers, it's not designed to run through port.

I had this same problem though, take off engine cover and look where flush attachment is. In my case the rubber tube that starts the flow of water had disconnected, so yes water was circulating through the top but was just splashing around. With the engine cover on it would appear to be doing something since water was draining down below. 

So check and make sure it's Hooked up! I'll get a photo later if you need it, but it starts where attachment leads into engine area, and branches off in two directions I believe. Once I got it attached again it was peeing like a champ. Let me know how this works out.


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## flynavy812

OHenry said:


> Have the same issue and was told by my mechanic that its normalish, as long as it pee's in the water. Was told by another member that as long as water comes out of the prop, you're good to go also. Still would rather it came out all the time.


The reason it will pee in the water is its drawing water through the lower unit, while the flushing port is diverting water to flush the engine. I could be wrong but I'm pretty confident it's a matter of hose or two getting loose.


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## Ocean Master

It flushes the powerhead but not the water pump when using the engines connection.


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## Realtor

Ocean Master said:


> It flushes the powerhead but not the water pump when using the engines connection.






 
what? I have water running out the water intake screens when I use the attachment....


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## sealark

I am assuming you are not running the engine when flushing. I had the same question. What I do when hooked up to the peehole for flushing is to just start the engine after about 5 minutes of flushing. Run it for a minute and shut it off. That way you are sure the block gets flushed.


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## flynavy812

sealark said:


> I am assuming you are no running the engine when flushing. I had the same question. What I do when hooked up to the peehole for flushing is to just start the engine after about 5 minutes of flushing. Run it for a minute and shut it off. That way you are sure the block gets flushed.


You really shouldn't do this, google it. If you are referring to fresh water attachment. 

The last mechanic I spoke with showed me some impellers that were absolutely destroyed from this. Basically the engine will run and pee but it's not circulating water through water pump like it should be under normal operating conditions.


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## sealark

How could it run and pee when the hose is hooked to the pee hole. Plus before I start mine for a minute water must be getting to the pump because water is coming out the pickup screen.


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## flynavy812

sealark said:


> How could it run and pee when the hose is hooked to the pee hole. Plus before I start mine for a minute water must be getting to the pump because water is coming out the pickup screen.


I've seen how these arguments turn out on forums, everyone has a different view and tends to disagree. I'm not here to do that I promise, All I know is owners manual is pretty clear about not operating engine through freshwater flush port. The motor will run and water will circulate through but the way I was explained it, it's flowing down through the pump the wrong way and will burn up your pump. I'm not a mechanic or expert so I'm not claiming to be right, but if you read up on it I'm sure it will be better explained elsewhere.


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## sealark

I should have stated I have an E-tech G2 150 not a yamaha. If water comes out the intake screens water is getting through the impeller. I'll keep hitting the starter and running for a few seconds at the end of the flush.


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## Realtor

I'll stick with what the manufacturer recommends. Ive been doing it the same way for a long long time, and its all good.... lol


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## Orion45

Realtor said:


> I'll stick with what the manufacturer recommends. Ive been doing it the same way for a long long time, and its all good.... lol



This. ^^^^

The Owners Manual is your best friend.

For example:

My old 1998 Suzuki DT-225 (2 stroke) Owners Manual clearly stated that you could run the engine either by using muffs or the hose attachment on the side of the engine.

My current 2008 Suzuki DF-115 (4-stroke) manual states that engine can be only run with the muffs attached. The side hose attachment is only to be used with the engine off.


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## FleaBag

take the hose off the pee hole tube and poke wire in the fitting on the engine side. had the same problem with a 90. corrosion clogging the upper side before it gets to the rubber tube or could be the lower side where it comes outside. pee hole is just for quick reference and does not mean your not getting water but it could so always check it out. If you flush while its hot I think it flushes the powerhead but i've always wondered how long it takes for the thermostat to shut?


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## 706Z

Glad I've never owned a yammy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## flynavy812

My 60HP is approaching 1000 hours and it's a 2013... yeah came off a rental. Under the hood looks brand new still, I bought the diagnostics cable to confirm hours and any error codes and there aren't any. Still amazed how well it looks and performs at this point.

For what it's worth, the previous owner told me to run engine off flush port for no more than 30 seconds, sure it might not show immediate damage or cause anything to happen ever but I'd rather just stick to instruction. I replaced the pump myself recently and everything looked pretty good, but doesn't mean I'll start running it off that port.

I typically flush it for a few minutes then maybe run some salt terminator in there, rarely use muffs and fire engine.


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## Bay Ranger

Thanks all.

Let me clarify things. I do not run the engine when I am trying to flush the motor using the flush port on the top side of the motor. When I try and flush using the flush port I get no water flow out of the "pee hole". However, I do get water coming out of the lower end of the motor around the prop. Fresh water is going somewhere into the motor but is it getting to the powerhead?

If I run the motor while in the water I have plenty of water flow out the "pee hole". That tells me that my "pee hole" is not plugged up.

So, if I am using the flush port on the side of the motor and I do not have any water coming out the "pee hole", am I flushing my powerhead?


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## flynavy812

Bay Ranger said:


> Thanks all.
> 
> Let me clarify things. I do not run the engine when I am trying to flush the motor using the flush port on the top side of the motor. When I try and flush this way I get no water flow out of the "pee hole". However, I do get water coming out of the lower end of the motor around the prop.
> 
> If I run the motor while in the water I have plenty of water flow out the "pee hole". That tells me that my "pee hole" is not plugged up.
> 
> So, if I am using the flush port on the side of the motor and I do not have any water coming out the "pee hole", am I flushing my powerhead?


Did you check what I mentioned? Take a quick peak and report back if you can. If those hoses are where they should be, the powerhead should flush and it should pee.


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## flynavy812

I took some photos... the flush attachment has a hose that leads right to the left straight out the pee hole, at least on my engine. If I were you I would check hoses, then run the attachment with cover off.


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## Realtor

tilt the motor up more, you may not have the water volume to fill the entire cooling system. its more about volume filling up the system so it makes it to the pee hole. trim/tilt until the water comes out the hole.... it'll make it there, just give it time....


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## Bay Ranger

Realtor, I've tilted the motor up as far as it will go and tried flushing the motor the entire time I was washing the boat (with a separate garden hose). That had to be 30-45 mins. Still no "pee". 

I am going to try flynavy's suggestion. I'll report back.


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## Bay Ranger

Thanks for all the help, flynavy.

OK, here's what I did.

Warmed the motor up to temp. Shut the motor off. Hooked up the garden hose to the flush port. Turned on the water and removed the motor cover. There was no water escaping from the flush port hose on the motor. There was no water exiting the pee hole in a vertical position. Tilted the motor up and let the water run into the motor for 15 mins with no water exiting the pee hole.

So, was water circulating through the powerhead or just exiting through thelower unit?


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## flynavy812

Bay Ranger said:


> Thanks for all the help, flynavy.
> 
> OK, here's what I did.
> 
> Warmed the motor up to temp. Shut the motor off. Hooked up the garden hose to the flush port. Turned on the water and removed the motor cover. There was no water escaping from the flush port hose on the motor. There was no water exiting the pee hole in a vertical position. Tilted the motor up and let the water run into the motor for 15 mins with no water exiting the pee hole.
> 
> So, was water circulating through the powerhead or just exiting through thelower unit?


Are you saying there was clearly no leak? If you look at your motor and my photos, you will see that the main tube from that flush port branches off left and right. To the left it goes straight down to the pee hole, at least on mine. On the right it diverts in a few directions. So this is kind of weird, I mean if you really want to solve the mystery just trace the tube that goes from your flush port, to the pee hole, and pop it off. It's just a rubber tube to a nipple so nothing crazy. And get some water in that tube, if it's clear water will come right out the pee hole.

Not sure if your engine being a 250 makes a huge difference as I'm sure it could, but when you look at the layout of the flush system you should clearly see where each tube goes.

I also can hear the head flushing with water when I run mine. If you're able to snap a few photos you should because I'm dying to know what's up with this. It's a pretty basic system.


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## flynavy812

Here's another photo. This is weird to me because look at my setup, water enters a little T setup that branches water left and right. To the left about 6 inches is pee hole so it takes barely any pressure to get that going. To the right it goes all through the power head.


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## Bay Ranger

Jake, clearly no leak. 

Near as I can tell the hose on my flush attachment does not tee off as your does with one part going to the powerhead and the other going to the pee outlet. There's not much light down there as it is on the bottom of the powerhead but I will try and get some pics and post them (today if possible).

I don't understand why Yamaha would want to divert flushing water from the powerhead to the pee outlet. It seems to me that would reduce the pressure and water flow to the powerhead thus reducing the effectiveness of the flushing.

Thanks for your interest in helping me to try and answer my original question.


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## Bay Ranger

Flynavy, attached are pics of my F250. I've annotated where the flush port enters the cowl area, as well as the flush hose. The hose winds from the starboard front of the motor to the port motor rear where it enters the powerhead. As you can see, my motor does not have a "T" whereby some water goes to the pee fitting and the remainder of the water goes to the powerhead (as yours does). Obviously, water is getting into the motor because I have a great deal of water coming out the lower unit.

Now that I'm writing this, I believe I will again look at my motor and see where the pee hole hose traces back into the powerhead. Perhaps, as someone has suggested, there is not enough water pressure to fill the water jacket and force it out the pee hole.


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## Realtor

Bay Ranger said:


> Flynavy, attached are pics of my F250. I've annotated where the flush port enters the cowl area, as well as the flush hose. The hose winds from the starboard front of the motor to the port motor rear where it enters the powerhead. As you can see, my motor does not have a "T" whereby some water goes to the pee fitting and the remainder of the water goes to the powerhead (as yours does). Obviously, water is getting into the motor because I have a great deal of water coming out the lower unit.
> 
> Now that I'm writing this, I believe I will again look at my motor and see where the pee hole hose traces back into the powerhead. Perhaps, as someone has suggested, there is not enough water pressure to fill the water jacket and force it out the pee hole.


I don't think pressure is your issue, more of a volume thing. You may want to try two garden hoses together using a splitter, a hose from the back of the house and one from the front of the house, You motor look clean and well maintained, I wouldn't thing there any blockages anywhere... if it works when the motors is running, then it'll work on the hose with the volume.... 2 cents.


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## Bay Ranger

I have a splitter and can connect two garden hoses so I'll give that a try, Realtor. This is really bugging me. However, if I have 2 hoses going into one hose is the volume not the same? Constrained by the single hose? I can understand that maybe I will have a more consistent pressure at the one hose but increased volume?


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## Realtor

its worth a try, I remember when I was drilling my well, a single hose did nothing, added second from the other spigot, and the PVC pipe sunk like it was in hot butter.... No more pressure, but the additional volume of water was introduced. There isn't a water restrictor in the line anywhere is there? lol I've overlooked things like this so many times.... but its worth a try....


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## sealark

Jim the restrictor is the thermostats. Even before the engine get to the temp for it to open a small amount of coolant circulates. So start or not just let it set for a few minutes and everything will get flushed. Thermostats are on the outlet side of the block.


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## Realtor

sealark said:


> Jim the restrictor is the thermostats. Even before the engine get to the temp for it to open a small amount of coolant circulates. So start or not just let it set for a few minutes and everything will get flushed. Thermostats are on the outlet side of the block.


I'm talking about on the hose bib, before the motor


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## sealark

Why is there a restrictor on the hose? Hope you arent talking about the fittings at sherman cove. If you R they are not restrictors


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## Lieutenant ZKO

Seems to me forcing two hoses through one output of the same size will increase the water pressure. In order to increase the water pressure you have to increase the water volume released from the hose or reduce the hose diameter for that volume. Makes more since to say water pressure. If we're talking about volume you need to prevent the water from exiting the lower unit so the engine can fill up.


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## Lieutenant ZKO

Unfortunately Bay Ranger, I cannot find a solid answer on whether the engine is adequately flushed without peeing, which was your initial question. As I posted before I am curious about this same thing myself. This thread kinda spiralled. I do believe the two hose thing could work.


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## Bay Ranger

Folks, I haven't tried the splitter yet, however, as I was working on it (got a bunch of gender problems) it occurred to me that the garden hoses are something like 5/8' in diameter and the flush attachment hose on the motor is something considerably less (possibly 3/8"). So, two 5/8" hoses feeding into a single 3/8" hose is not going to increase the water volume entering the powerhead. I can see that the pressure would be increased though. Maybe the increased pressure will fill the water jacket and force the fresh water out the pee hole.

Hell, what do I know. That's what I'm looking for help!


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## Bay Ranger

Realtor, I forgot to answer your question. No, there are no restrictors at any of the hose bibs that I know of.


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## Realtor

Bay Ranger said:


> Folks, I haven't tried the splitter yet, however, as I was working on it (got a bunch of gender problems) it occurred to me that the garden hoses are something like 5/8' in diameter and the flush attachment hose on the motor is something considerably less (possibly 3/8"). So, two 5/8" hoses feeding into a single 3/8" hose is not going to increase the water volume entering the powerhead. I can see that the pressure would be increased though. Maybe the increased pressure will fill the water jacket and force the fresh water out the pee hole.
> 
> Hell, what do I know. That's what I'm looking for help!


 
go try the splitter, the more water going into the system, will fill it up enough to circulate the entire system. yes, the pressure will increase because your forcing more water into a confined space, more water volume will (should) fill the system complete up and come up and spill out the pee hole.... if that doesn't work, then I don't know from here.... worth a try?


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## Bay Ranger

Realtor, I will try the splitter.

BTW, thanks for the pic on the gender changer. Gosh, I hope my neighbors don't find out that I'm on the inter web checking out info on gender changing!


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## Realtor

Bay Ranger said:


> Realtor, I will try the splitter.
> 
> BTW, thanks for the pic on the gender changer. Gosh, I hope my neighbors don't find out that I'm on the inter web checking out info on gender changing!


lol you have my interest peaked with this.....


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## Bay Ranger

Well Realtor, you were right!

After making new hose connectors with the correct gender I hooked up two garden hoses from two different hose bibs and turned on both water supplys. After about 2 minutes water began flowing from the pee hole. It appears that regular house water pressure and volume is not enough to force water through the cooling jacket and out the pee hole.

It looks like to be assured that the motor is getting a good flush I an going to have to use my new flush attachment and two hoses.


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## Realtor

Bay Ranger said:


> Well Realtor, you were right!
> 
> After making new hose connectors with the correct gender I hooked up two garden hoses from two different hose bibs and turned on both water supplys. After about 2 minutes water began flowing from the pee hole. It appears that regular house water pressure and volume is not enough to force water through the cooling jacket and out the pee hole.
> 
> It looks like to be assured that the motor is getting a good flush I an going to have to use my new flush attachment and two hoses.


That's a weak stream.... lol What's the pressure at your house? I would like to think you would have a stronger stream. Check the meter box and see if your valve is completely open. is there water running inside the house? Like a washing machine, or someone taking a shower?


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## Bay Ranger

"Weak stream" maybe that's why I have to go so many times during the night!

Oh wait, you mean the motor.

I will check the meter box. I recall shutting off the water to the main house several months ago when I had to replace a cartridge in a shower. I also have a pressure tester that I can connect to the hose bib to see what the water pressure I have in the house.

Oh, nothing was going on in the house that uses water. I was the only one home at the time and neither the washing machine nor the dish washer was in use when I ran the test.


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## redlegs

Quite an interesting project. Am surprised one of many companies have not exploited this "dual flush" contraption. I am going to have to make one since I've had the same issue with flush ears (want to call it poor fit). After hours of research; on my skiff I had a plastic barrel that I could push under and run the engine to flush the Yammie f150.
Not so easy with my twin F115's; they sit up on the barge way too high. Most Yamaha documents and technicians "elude" to flushing by the port without the engine running is enough. It may be, I'd just feel better if the engine was running and getting fresh water to all the ports.
I could also see adding a small tank in line to add salt away (or additive of choice), much like those pressure washer tanks, or those lawn fertilizer inline additive tanks (if I'm making sense).
Good job! :notworthy::thumbup:


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## Bay Ranger

Redlegs, concur with some form of attachment to run "salt away" through the water jacket. 

I would not do that at every flush, more like every fourth flush. As a matter of fact, before I installed the Command Link gauges on my motor I had an analog water pressure gauge. I have a jackplate on my boat so it was a safety precaution to ensure that the motor was getting sufficient water. It would corrode in the powerhead and block up. It was a press fit into the powerhead so I could not do it myself - the dealer had to do it. I believe that if I could have run some form of "salt away" I could have short circuited some of the corrosion problems.


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## mt0264

use duel muffs to flush engine and water pump is the best way.


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## Bay Ranger

MT, thanks but can't do that. The boat is on a lift and I can't get to the lower unit to put the muffs on.


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## Bay Ranger

I came across this YouTube video by Sunrise Marine:

https://youtu.be/r0vuFkp7Rtk

They say on the larger motors that water will not come out the "pee" hole during a static flush.


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## Bay Ranger

Checked the water pressure at the dock and at the house. Looks to be about 70PSI. Is that about normal for a house? Obviously, a single hose at this pressure is not enough to fill the water jacket and force water out of the "pee" hole.


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## Ocean Master

70 psi is very good.


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## Realtor

Ocean Master said:


> 70 psi is very good.


70 is good, did you check the meter box?


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## flynavy812

Bay Ranger said:


> Checked the water pressure at the dock and at the house. Looks to be about 70PSI. Is that about normal for a house? Obviously, a single hose at this pressure is not enough to fill the water jacket and force water out of the "pee" hole.


Something is not adding up. It should be plenty of pressure those tubes are small and velocity increase should be enough for all of them to fill. I'm trying to find exploded view of how it's all routed. 

I know you said your is different than mine but the biggest thing you need to do is trace pee hole tube and where it goes towards the flush system.


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## Bay Ranger

Sorry Realtor, yes, I checked the box. Put a wrench to it and it was opened all the way.

Anyone want to comment about the Sunrise Marine YouTube video where he says that on the big Yamaha motors water may not come out the "pee" hole?


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## 2RC's II

Bob the only time I have ever had the same problem was when I began the flush before my lift completely finished raising the entire lower unit out out of the water. Being OCD as you know I always check the pee hole when flushing. Well this time nada. I turned the water off let the OB drain started the flush again and it functioned as always out the pee hole. I also only use a 5/8" hose no double dohicky thingy. As far as all the other flushing options I feel sure that if one was better than the other Yamaha would state that in their instructions. That being said I feel that a "salt away" type product could possibly benefit engine life kinda like stabil. On another note I use a long plastic zip tie to run up the tube from time to time to remove anything that might be stuck to the interior of the tubing. those little ripples will scrub away the inside of the tubing quite nicely. Had a dirt dabber and a spider clog them up other the winter on a couple of my other OB's


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## Bay Ranger

Roy, I never try and flush until the motor is completely out of the water. I first try and wash the scum off of the boat that I have in the water up by me. Once that is completed I flush the motor while the motor is still warm. Also, I have tried flushing in both the motor lowered and motor tilted up position. I makes no difference. If you read my previous posts I was able to get water out of the "pee" hole with a cold motor using the two hose method.

I know that the "pee' hole is not plugged up as I have good flow when the motor is running.


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## X-Shark

> Anyone want to comment about the Sunrise Marine YouTube video


70PSI is Very good for a household. Norm use to be 40PSI

You will note in the vid.....They cranked the motor and then cut it short.

Every Yamaha I've ever run on muffs will sound the overheat alarm.
That is with a bunch of different size motors. It never happened with other manufactures.


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## Bay Ranger

Yeah, X-Shark, I overheated this F250 on muff alone too. However, if I connect the muffs to one hose and connect another hose to the flush attachment it will not overheat. That's what I do to warm up the engine oil when I change the oil.


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## RZR570

What's the appropriate amount of time to Freshwater flush an engine? 115 Yammy


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## X-Shark

That Vid they posted says about 3min.... I run it in mine for 10. Just flushing Not on muffs and running.


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