# Latest project



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

I tried to pass it up.



Sea-r-cy said:


> Please take this post down. I don't need another project.:yes: What a great opportunity for a fiberglass-handy person. Try over on The Hull Truth, won't last long there. :thumbsup:


I resisted more. 


Sea-r-cy said:


> Good hull if you want to build one from the hull up. Work is too itchy for me!


Then the PFF crowd pushed it a bit. 



Boat-Dude said:


> Someone buy this boat already and start a rebuild thread!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good grief!


I finally gave in, can't resist a bargain. 



floater1 said:


> Need to move this weekend.trailers leaves Tuesday $400 can be reached at 850-602-143four


Now, the project hull is sitting on the floor in my out building. More photos to follow!


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Day one. Removed the fuel tank, (yep, it looks brand new, coal tarred). Did some exploratory removal of some of the floor. Fuel tank sort of floated up after the floor above it was removed. This hull had sat outside for quite some time with holes cut in the floor. Lots of rainwater everywhere. 
Front compartment that was under the center console had a 1" hole drilled in the center. No idea if this was original, or a later addition. Nothing under the hole but foam (and standing water).
I dipped, pumped, and vacuumed as much water as I could, put fans on the foam.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Day two, finished cutting the offending floor, more vacuuming and cleaning. I was ready to start removing all the "wet foam". However, the only saturated or wet foam I could find was the 4 green foam blocks that were inserted under the fuel tank before the 2 part foam was pumped in. Rest of the foam was not saturated. I decided to leave it in for now.

Water was impossible to remove under the center console area. I took a jig saw and made the small hole larger, around 6". I'll later install a 6" deck plate to cover the hole. I then used a long sawzall blade, cut the foam out down to the hull. After vacuuming and letting dry for a day, no more water made it to the keel in this area. 

Evidently, Cape Horn engineers designed the boat to have sealed compartments. However this works two ways. Once water does penetrate below the floor into the compartments, there is no way for the water to ever escape.

Cape Horn engineers, take notice.  I cut the foam out along the keel line under the fuel tank. I also cut a 1" hole in the bulkhead between the fuel tank area, and the center console area. I then drove a piece of pvc through the foam under the center console to make a hole through the foam. I'll nstall a piece of pvc along the keel, open at the aft bulkhead, and turning up inside the 6" hole under the center console. From that time on, I can open the deck plate, and attach a shop vac to the pvc, drawing out any water that's accumulated along the keel under the fuel tank. :thumbsup:

More photos to follow.


----------



## NoMoSurf (Oct 2, 2007)

Thank you for buying that. It was killing me. I already have three boats in the yard and looking to buy another kayak. I didn't need this. LOL


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Looks like you got something to keep ya busy!!!! Love project threads!


----------



## tbaxl (Mar 13, 2013)

Have fun, as I stated in the original add, I hate foam. I did the exact same thing on my rebuild and added limber holes/pvc pipe to get any offending water out. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I will add one more foam thought, do you have a way to check the foam at the hull bottom, mine was dry on top however saturated at the bottom.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

tbaxl said:


> Have fun, as I stated in the original add, I hate foam. I did the exact same thing on my rebuild and added limber holes/pvc pipe to get any offending water out. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I will add one more foam thought, do you have a way to check the foam at the hull bottom, mine was dry on top however saturated at the bottom.


I did check the foam under the center console area. Someone had drilled a 1" hole in the center of the fiberglass "pit", it had standing water in it for weeks on end. I cut out the glass and foam in a 6" circle, all the way to the keel. The foam had a bit of water in the hole, but all the foam all the way to the keel was dry and light. No sign of any saturation. The foam under the fuel tank had standing water, after it was removed, the foam I cut out along the keel was light, not saturated.


----------



## Stoker1 (Feb 17, 2014)

I'd pay you to let me help just to get the experience. Love the types of projects.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Got to do a bit of work on the project this week. All the rainwater has been dried out of the hull, installed the keel pvc "dipstick", one deck plate, and installed the fuel tank. Really tight fitting! New fuel filler hose (wonder why the cracked 20 year old one wasn't replaced when the new fuel tank was installed), and new fuel supply line. Also, double hose clamps!

Floor was installed using gorilla glue made for marine use and ss screws. Boat is looking better!


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

What kind of foam did you use?


----------



## CalvinandHobbes (Jan 25, 2014)

Awesome! Glad you got it and decided to fix it up. You have made a lot of progress.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

X-Shark said:


> What kind of foam did you use?


Left the original in the boat. Foamed around the tank with foam-in-a-can.


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Sea-r-cy said:


> Left the original in the boat. Foamed around the tank with foam-in-a-can.



That is NOT the product to use. That has less density than the 2lb flotation foam. Should have used 4lb density around the tank.




Is the decking been glassed on the bottom side....before install?


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Glassed. yes. Why the different foam?


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

It's the density and strength.


The idea of flotation foam is to be as light as possible.....yet be non absorbent by water. [it still is eventually....If water sits there]


So 2lb density is used. It gives the most flotation for the lightest weight.


Then we have the cavity for the fuel tank. Put a tank in there don't foam it or strap it down ..... fill it full of fuel and go run the boat. 50gal tank would weigh 325lbs + the weight of the tank. That's a Hell'va wrecking ball and will destroy the boat and the tank.


And before you say.....Who would do that.....Well It has happened!


So the point is to have it secured very strong.....yet as light as possible. 4lb density does that and is the standard that the industry uses.


http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html






> *4 LB** Density Urethane Foam * *Common Applications:* This 4LB density foam is suited well for most flotation applications that require more support than the 2LB offers. This foam is recommended to be used when supporting gas tanks and some deck areas. Choose this density if you feel that the foam will be required to withstand minor to moderate loads. The 4LB density also works well in floating decoy or taxidermy applications as well as many other sculpting, casting, carving and other filling applications.







The box store spray foam you used ... is not even as good as 2lb density that is used in boats.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Boat has all the original foam in the "v" part of the tank hole, and most of the original on the sides. Tank fits so snug I had to stand on it to get it to bottom out. The foam I added was to fill in the last 2-3" of the tank, mostly to keep it in place until the floor was in.

Hopefully, there will never be any water on or around the tank. The pvc dip tube I installed is there to vacuum out any water that accumulates along the keel.


----------



## OHenry (Apr 28, 2011)

Looking forward to the finished product and more pictures.


----------



## captken (Feb 24, 2008)

Great read. (As usual for you.) Keep up dating it. It reinforces why I HATE BOATS.


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> The foam I added was to fill in the last 2-3" of the tank, mostly to keep it in place until the floor was in.



Yep....THAT is where the 4lb density goes. 



If the tank has tabs on it....You lag bolt the tank in BEFORE you pour the foam. This is to keep the tank from being pushed up by the expanding foam. Or.....If no tabs


A 4X4 across the hull and a floor jack on top of the tank....With enough pressure on the 4X4 to keep the tank from moving.


I've seen this not done...and it can sure make a mess when the tank floats up and stuff does not fit correctly.


This is all after the fact now......It's information for anyone else wanting to do one.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Finally found an affordable trailer for the Cape. Was listed on "Market Place" in Panama City Beach. Had a hull (Bayliner?) on it. I spent an hour taking off some stainless screws, and removed the fuel tank. This morning I took the remains to the land fill. 
Four new tires went on some nice aluminum wheels, the trailer is going to look great! Spent another couple of hours fitting the bunks to the Cape. It's off to the fiberglass guy after the rain passes.


----------



## Snagged Line (Sep 30, 2007)

Looks Great!!!.......What will you power it with???


----------



## Emerald Ghost (Mar 11, 2008)

Very nice Sea R Sea,

subscribed.


----------



## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

Snagged Line said:


> Looks Great!!!.......What will you power it with???



Inline 6 stern drive.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Been looking for a 4 stroke Suzuki/Honda/Yamaha, or a Yamaha 2 stroke, not found anything "worth the money". Either junk, or nearly new price. If I don't find a good used one, I'll go new Suzuki 200-250 hp. I thought with all the wrecked boats in PC, there would be some in the market. Not heard of any yet.


----------



## Stoker1 (Feb 17, 2014)

Facebook can be the devil for some, but its also a pretty good resource for shopping. Several groups exceeding 50K members. If you're on there, search out:

Trick My Skiff - its mainly FL guys


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

A little progress the last few weeks. I did my research,(I hope) and bought a motor. Found it up in Dothan, Ala. at Boyd's marine. It was a Yamaha HPDI 25" shaft counter rotation motor. Mechanic that checked it out told me it had been in stock for over 4 years, being somewhat of an odd motor for the area. Compression checked out good, motor only had 374 hours on it. Price was right! 

I finally found some 3/8" lauan with exterior glue. I wanted to keep the overall weight light, but have a strong wheel house. I've got a good bit done, will finish the wood part tomorrow. It's 40" wide, and will be around 60" long including the forward seat. It will be covered with a good layer of glass on the outside, probably painted inside or glassed. The side windows are recycled windshields from an old boat hull I junked out. Front laminated glass will cost around $100. I recycled some teak out of an old swim platform, this will be the window trim on the outside.

Can't get the photos to rotate. sorry


----------



## floater1 (Oct 31, 2007)

Looks good can’t wait to see finished product


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Boardfeet (Sep 27, 2007)

The first Pilot House Cape Horn!!
That's Arkansas ingenuity.
Can't wait to see it done.


----------



## cody&ryand (Oct 3, 2007)

I cant wait to see the finished product either


----------



## stevenattsu (Apr 24, 2009)

Dog house on a Cape Horn


----------



## MaxxT (May 9, 2015)

You have skills, thanks for the thread and narrative


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Pilot house set, hole cut in the floor to the "basement", an area under the floor about 40' square. Storage for batteries, jackets, etc. Will have an opening under the front seat to easily access. Did a bit of prep work for the fiberglass on the top, finished the wood portion of the house.

Hope to get the underside of the roof done in a day or so, then attach it to the house. I'm slow at fiberglass work, will take a while to cover the wood with a good layer of glass.

House looks good on the hull, good visibility, and "fits" the hull. (and me )


----------



## Boardfeet (Sep 27, 2007)

You may get a visit from Chris and Bob Fabbro.
They may want to incorporate your idea.
Looking good!


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

I do wonder why pilot houses aren't more of an option. I for one don't like to sit in the spray and wind. And when it's pouring, I sure like my pilot house!


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

I've been busy doing other things, finally got back to work on the Cape Horn. Took the boat over to Fayne Limbo for him to glass the pilot house. (vertical glassing is above my pay grade). Looks great! 
The deck above the anchor locker was rotten, thanks to a hole in the deck for a lifting point. Wanting to keep all the repairs simple, I cut out a triangle hole and cleaned all the old plywood out. Had to replace with a 3 piece jig saw puzzle, but I got it done. It's got a scab under the joints, will be strong as new. I installed a layer of mat between the wood and the old piece of deck. Next I'll grind out the joint and re-glass. I'll have to fill in where the speaker holes were too. 
I've got 3 gallons of jell coat that will start going on today! Progress. :thumbsup:


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> (vertical glassing is above my pay grade)



So how you overcome that is......Once your patterns and cut.


Lay the pieces flat and glass them.......both sides.


Then use the stitch and glue method of joining the pieces. Pull the wires and run a full fillet....while the fillet is still green run biaxle tape over the fillets.


----------



## OHenry (Apr 28, 2011)

Sea-r-cy said:


> I've been busy doing other things, finally got back to work on the Cape Horn. Took the boat over to Fayne Limbo for him to glass the pilot house. (vertical glassing is above my pay grade). Looks great!
> The deck above the anchor locker was rotten, thanks to a hole in the deck for a lifting point. Wanting to keep all the repairs simple, I cut out a triangle hole and cleaned all the old plywood out. Had to replace with a 3 piece jig saw puzzle, but I got it done. It's got a scab under the joints, will be strong as new. I installed a layer of mat between the wood and the old piece of deck. Next I'll grind out the joint and re-glass. I'll have to fill in where the speaker holes were too.
> I've got 3 gallons of jell coat that will start going on today! Progress. :thumbsup:



Ok I have to ask for the pictures of the pilot house...:whistling:


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Made a little progress today. Picked up my windshield yesterday, installed it today. The trim is teak, recycled from an old Pacemaker's swim platform. The side windows are V-20 Wellcraft windshields. The side glass will slide rearward to allow a bit of air in the pilot house. The side glass was a really odd size piece of glass, 3/4 taller on one end than the other. Had to make the top pocket really deep to allow for the difference.


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

Second happiest day of owning this boat came suddenly today.  Had a local charter boat captain come look at the boat, he left with it behind his truck. I was about 90% done with the project, never did get to run it.  Was a lot of work and enjoyment bringing it back to life.:yes:


----------



## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

Time for another build!


----------



## Sea-r-cy (Oct 3, 2007)

kanaka said:


> Time for another build!


My ambitions exceed my available energy. :whistling:


----------

