# 19' Cape Horn fuel tank needs vaccumed out



## FLWhaler (Oct 1, 2007)

Any recommendations to have the fuel tank vacuumed out? Very little gas left in the tank but I feel like there is some trash in it.


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## delta dooler (Mar 6, 2008)

I just pumped my tank empty last week, I went to Advance auto parts and purchased a inline fuel pump for $47, and some fuel line to fit. I pulled fuel sending unit from top of tank and sucked it dry. I found that pumping it through fuel pickup still left 1/2-3/4" of fuel in tank. the very bottom is where trash and water is gonna be.

i had to raise/lower the front of boat a couple times to ensure I got it all out.


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## pappastratos (Oct 9, 2007)

Just don't try to use a shop vac, the motors are not sealed & have open sparks when ran.


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

I have one you can borrow. Just do not let the pump run dry..!

Do as posted above to pump out your tank.


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## FLWhaler (Oct 1, 2007)

*Cleaning a tank*

May have to try it myself. Anyone know how hard it is to get to on a 19 CH? May go ahead and replace the hoses to the tank if I have to pull the bait well as well.


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## smooth move (Sep 25, 2012)

i use a live well pump nippled down to the size of fuel line hose(1/2" i think) and a 24" piece of 1/4" copper tube on the end to reach into the cornors. after pumping out the tank, i tie a rag onto the end of the tubing and use it as a mop to get all the gunk i can out. hope this helps


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

19 Horn.......Look's like the livewell has to be removed to get to the sending unit hole.


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## FLWhaler (Oct 1, 2007)

*Yonights project*

Just pulled the live well tonight. XShark you beat me to it as always. Thanks. I'll pull the sending unit tomorrow and try to get with Ocean Master he has a pump he was nice enough to let me borrow.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

I hate seeing those "Automotive" connectors on the wiring.

I'd suggest that you do some other preventive maintenance while it's apart.

Change the fuel hose coming from the pickup. 

Install the Squeeze Ball between the tank and the Racor.

Also pull the antiphon fitting from the pickup and remove the ball.


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## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

Spray some penetrant on the bolts they can be a bitch to get out without breaking. tighten. loosen and tap and spray carefully.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Yep....They have been known to break off. 

I use a product called Tef Gel on the threads when they go back together.

You can't buy it in town....It has to be ordered.

http://tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_price



> 1. The function of Tef-Gel in eliminating dissimilar metal corrosion is the elimination of electrolytes from entering the interface of the metallic surfaces. Tef-Gel paste contains 40% PTFE powder and 0% volatile solvents, no silicones or petroleum solvents to evaporate, which would leave voids for electrolytes to be drawn into creating a galvanic cell. When both surfaces are coated and mated with Tef-Gel there are no voids for electrolytes (saltwater) to be drawn in by capillary action over extended periods of time.
> 
> EXAMPLE:
> 
> ...


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

One more thing I forgot to mention...Look at the 2nd pix of where the livewell came out.

See where the Green tape is?

Overbore those holes to between 1/4in & 5/16in. Tape the bottom of the hole. now fill those holes in with epoxy. This will seal the plywood and the screws will bite into the epoxy when you redrill the holes. This will save the frame of the livewell.


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## FLWhaler (Oct 1, 2007)

*Updates*

Sending unit out no broken screws and recommendations from Xshark are in the works. What other connectors should I use rather than the automotive? Also after I add the epoxy I will have to redrill the holes correct? Tank looked very clean looking forward to pumping it down to see what's in the bottom. Thanks for all the advice and thanks to Ocean Master for the loan of the pump. Also what about never seize for putting back the screws?


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

I have the marine rated connectors also if you need them. Anchor adhesive lined heat shrink connectors..

I use the Tef-Gel on my tower fittings.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

What Keith said.

I do usually add liquid elect tape on the connections themselves. That's a moist environment where that stuff is, so I seal it totally.

Yes drill the epoxy with the correct size bit for the screws. Then seal the whole thing with a neat bead of 3M 4000UV and it will not yellow on you.


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## FLWhaler (Oct 1, 2007)

*Tank pumped and al fuel lines replaced*

Very pleased after looking down in the tank really clean just a few grains of debris. Next question on reinstalling the sending unit. There was no sealant on the gasket around the sending unit. Should I put some on it when going back and if so what type is recommended. Thanks for all the advise this place is a wealth of knowledge.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Normally NO.......I personally like the cork gaskets better....They just seem to seal better "For me".

Now.....With that said.....I have used Permetex #1 on gaskets before. Sometimes that sender gasket will leak when the tank is slap FULL.

SO...We are at a delima on your boat. You can't just pop a piehole and seal it, if it is going to leak. It's a major deal to get to.

So.....because of that...I'd smear a slight layer of the sealant on both sides of the gasket and put it together.


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