# Water in lower unit



## Play'N Hooky Too (Sep 29, 2007)

Was changing the oil in my lower unit yesterday as part of my getting ready for the current season when I was confronted with the site of about the first 1/2 pint of fluid draining out being clear water. I have nothad the boat out sincethe fall and when I changed the oil last spring it was fine. Obviously there is a seal failure somewhere. 

I went ahead and replaced the oil as an interim measure until I can look into it more thoroughly ortake it to aprofessional. The prop shaft seems to turn freely and when I ran theengine recently I did not have any problem with the prop engaging. 

What I am concerned about is whether replacing the defective seal and the oil will resolve the issue or is it likely that a more extensive breakdown of the gearcase will need to be performed?


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

Get it pressure and vacum tested to find the leak and repair it. Don't tempt fate, lower units are expensive.


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## Telum Pisces (Sep 27, 2007)

What he said. A pressure test should reveal the faulty seal. Once the problem is found don't just replace that one seal/gasket. Get the seal kit and waterpump kit for your unit and replace all the seals/gaskets if it has not been done in a while. No use in repairing one faulty seal/gasket only to have another one fail shortly after.


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## Serendib (Oct 15, 2007)

Since there appears to be no damage to the gears or shift dog it's unlikely that you'll have to dismantle the innards. However, there are seals on the bearing carrier (prop shaft) that definitely should be replaced. The carrier will have to be pulled out of the lower unit and can sometimes be difficult due to age or corrosion.

There also are seals on the driveshaft (goes through the water pump) which should be replaced and also a seal on the gearshift rod. These are relatively easy to replace.


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## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

I've said this before so I'll say it again. Pressure and or vaccumn tests on lower units are not very reliable due to the fact that when you put pressure on the unit a leaking seal that isn't worn that bad tends to get pushed down and will seal during the test. The same is true for the vaccumn test as there are two seals on the shaft that are facing in both directions. If they are getting water into the lower unit change all three seals and be done with it.


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

:doh:doh:doh My thoughts......

The lower unit IS leaking. It doesn't matter which seal (or seals) is the culprit. Have the lower unit gone through and replace all the seals and be done with it. Doing ANY test and finding a single bad seal and replacing that one is like changing thetransmission fluidin your car/truck withoutinstalling a new filter.....guess what..you'll most likely be doing another seal replacement in the near future. When I replaced my engine (I/O) I had my foot gone through and replaced all the seals and water pump, and I had no water in there to start with. Had no idea when if ever ithad beendone. It wascalled preventive maintenance. ummmm with that much water and the not so distant past freezing conditions, you are lucky the case didn't freeze and crack.


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## David Ridenour (Sep 28, 2007)

> *sealark (1/31/2008)* If they are getting water into the lower unit change all three seals and be done with it.


Sounds like the best solution and advice.


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

Input shaft seals are easy to change. 85% of the time we find these leaking. The labor is economical for these.





The prop shaft seals are also inexpensive, but on most lower units it is very labor intensive. it is usually several hours to get propeller carrier bearing assembly out, replace seals and reinstall.


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## Play'N Hooky Too (Sep 29, 2007)

Well it looks like it will be new seals all around.I have a service manual for the motor andit does not look likeit would be that difficult a job to replace thesealswith the right tools. Looks like I know what I will be doing this weekend. Thanks for the advice.


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## duckhuntinsailor (Sep 28, 2007)

Proper tools is key. There is a very large nut that's a pain in the arse to get out, unless you have a very cool mechanic friend who has the special fabricated socket and impact wrench. Other than that it's not that bad of a job.


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

what manufaturer, year, and horsepower lower unit or you dealing with?


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## Play'N Hooky Too (Sep 29, 2007)

It's a 1998 Evinrude 200 OceanPro


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

Have you seen the retainer clip that is under the prop?


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## Play'N Hooky Too (Sep 29, 2007)

No.I have not gotten that far yet. I'm still at the sipping scotch and thinking about it stage.


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

Play with removing the retainer clip. And then sip your scotch thinking about it. You'll need it.


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