# Sticky  Wiring a trailer - The right way



## X-Shark

People ask me all the time....."What lights do you use?" "What light kit do you buy?"

The answer is a selected few items that I have been using for 15yrs now with Zero failures.

#1.... If you SMASH a light.....All bets are Off!

#2 Not all LED's are made the same..and you will get diodes that fail within the light.

#3 It is my contention that the factory never puts enough lights on the trailer. Remember...They put enough to pass min. safety muster.


The Stop/Turns I use are sealed units.... They have NO connector's. In the brand I will show you....They do have a model that has a connector on it. That's fine on a truck....Not fine on a submerged trailer. Remember, this stuff has to be seald up so it is WATERPROOF !

The Optronic's STL78RB is Waterproof. It is a surface mount light. some times I have to modify them to fit a trailer. That may mean slicing the flange off of one end to fit within the confines of the mounting spot that the trailer has been built. I do this with the bandsaw, making sure not to cut to much. note.....3 fasteners will hold the light on the trailer with no problem. The idea is to keep the light tucked in and out of harms way to keep it from getting broken.










You will note that there is no Red side marker lighting with this light. Trailer requirements require a Red side light at the tail end on the trailer.

For this I use Optronic's MCL14RB [Important] This is a 2 wire light. It is a total sealed light.



















Sometimes we need to be creative.... This Lil btacket I made kept that light oy of harms way.

For the Amber side lights I use Optronic's MCL14AB











On your normal trailer the factory will put 1 or 2 of these amber lights down the side. I always add at least 1 extra.

On the trailer that my Parker sits on.... there are a total of 4 side markers including the Red at the tail end.
On my old Flounder boat trailer there were a total of 3 side markers including the Red on the end.

For the "Triple Tree" light. That is the light on the trailers rear crossmember I use this light.

This light is not Optronic's.... optronic's does not make a 4 function light like this. 15in LED ID Bar - 3rd Brake - Turn indicator 










Yes they make a 3 function, but that's not what I want.

http://vehiclelight.com/15ledidbabri.html


This light is for trailers that are for Over 80” Applications, but I put them on all trailers.


WHY?

Well lets talk about why we even have lights on a trailer.

1.....Yes it's the law

But more importantly is so no one runs over your precious jewel.
So... LIGHT that Sucker UP!

With the way I do it...There will never be a excuse that....."I didn't see You."

This Triple Tree light has 3 lights that light when the parkin/running lights are ON. If you step on the Brake all the other lights light very Bright. If you put your R turn siginal ON and step on the Brake.
The left side comes on Solid Brake light.... The Right side flashes along with the Optronic's STL78RB on the outboard side and visa versa if you put on the Left turn.

Wiring.... I select wire that has 4 conductor's Yes a White wire with it also.
It's sold by the foot and is 16ga. 
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Deka/16-4B-1.html

Male plug for plugging into the tow vehicle. 

This may vary, but forget the 4 pin flat or the Damn 5 pin flat that trailer companies use. Grrr! 

Just go ahead and install a 7 pin round.











Most of us tow with a truck that has the 7 pin female connector already on it. Why put a stupid adapter in the system? That's just one more connection to fail or cause a problem.
There are exceptions to this rule.

On my Flounder boat trailer.....There were no brakes on it....A flat 4 pin would have worked....But it has a 7 pin round on it....No adapter to chase or loose a connection thru. 
It's the KISS method...."Keep It Simple Stupid"










The trailer frame is not used for a Ground for the lights......BUT....If you have trailer brakes....IE: Surge Brakes.......There is a electric solenoid that activates when the tow vehicle is put in reverse...This needs the trailer frame to be grounded to complete the circuit and activate shutting brake fluid off to the brakes so the trailer can be backed up.

Connections can be soldered and heat shrink with the glue in it, then leq elec tape.
I use crimp / shrinks and then use liq elec tape to make sure the wiring is sealed up to be WATERPROOF.

As you can see.... there is a lot more to this than wire nuts if you want it to last and be worry free. It takes time to do it right!

I guarantee my work.


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## lastcast

Good post Bobby, been awhile.


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## Realtor

this is on my to-do list this winter....


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## johnsonbeachbum

Great write up.
Should be a sticky or whatever they are called that always are at the top of forum section.


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## NKlamerus

You didn't mention wiring, you don't use any from the kits do you? Worst wire I've ever ripped off a trailer came from the "lighting kits"


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## daniel9829

Real good information Thank you


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## specktackler57

Excellent .


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## lobsterman

X-Shark said:


> For the "Triple Tree" light. That is the light on the trailers rear crossmember I use this light.
> 
> This light is not Optronic's.... optronic's does not make a 4 function light like this. 15in LED ID Bar - 3rd Brake - Turn indicator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes they make a 3 function, but that's not what I want.
> 
> http://vehiclelight.com/15ledidbabri.html


Isn't this light supposed to be red on the back of the trailer?


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## Jason

johnsonbeachbum said:


> Great write up.
> Should be a sticky or whatever they are called that always are at the top of forum section.


DONE! 

Bobby is a dern whiz at helping folks so his will be a beneficial thread!:thumbsup:


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## X-Shark

> Isn't this light supposed to be red on the back of the trailer?


I'm glad you brought this up.... I thought of it , but then forgot to add in my other deep thought's.....LOL

They make a lot of lights now with a clear lens, but they light up Red or Amber.
They can be ID by the wires. Clear & Red will have one of the wires with a Red tracer on it or Amber with a Yellow tracer on one. 

BUT! Let me say this....I'm not a fan of clear lense's. WHY? 
Because they have no reflective value.

Lets say your along the road with some type electrical problem. So the lights are not ON.

At least the RED or AMBER len's will reflect back when headlights hit them.

I feel the same way with these aftermarket lights people put on their vehicles.
They have Maximum reflection with the factory stuff. They work hard at making them that way. This gives the best chance of being seen.

Being seen is what this is all about.

Another pet pev of mine in the name of "Looking Cool" is Black tinting taillight len's.

This cut's down on the candle power that the lights throw....kinda like having Dim lights. It Should be Outlawed..... Probably is, but not enforced like a lot of stuff around here.



Here's a idea for everyone to do today.... The Sun is out....[at least for now]

Get a helper.... Go out and check all the lights on your vehicles to make sure they are working today.

People with Chevy's....Crank the motor and look at your front parking lights....I see one of those out ALL the time. The motor has to be running.

3rd Stop light working? Tag Light?


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## X-Shark

NKlamerus said:


> You didn't mention wiring, you don't use any from the kits do you? Worst wire I've ever ripped off a trailer came from the "lighting kits"


Actually I did and put a link. Reread down a little.

This stuff is not tinned wire. They is no bundled trailer wire that is tinned that I've ever seen.
That's not to say you can't use tinned wire.... It will be more expensive and will be more work. It also will corrode if water gets to it.

The name of the game is seal it up Watertite.


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## Snagged Line

Thanks for the post Bobby, You put a lot of thought and effort in it and saved us a lot of trial and error on the light selection.


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## Jason

X-Shark said:


> Actually I did and put a link. Reread down a little.
> 
> This stuff is not tinned wire. They is no bundled trailer wire that is tinned that I've ever seen.
> That's not to say you can't use tinned wire.... It will be more expensive and will be more work. It also will corrode if water gets to it.
> 
> The name of the game is seal it up Watertite.


When I did mine last, I used heat shrink connectors-then put tubing over the connectors-then squeezed 5200 in the tubing!


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## johnsonbeachbum

I would be inclined to use some type of double sided foam tape to secure lights to the trailer.
The LED units are so lightweight, your not needing the screw for a ground, and when the time comes to replace one, the replacement likely will have different mounting holes, then your drilling more holes.

Any drilled hole is just another spot for corrosion. Especially a galvanized trailer.


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## X-Shark

> then squeezed 5200 in the tubing!


While that will work..... 5200 is like antiseze......Open the can and the crap jumps on you.




> Any drilled hole is just another spot for corrosion.



Steel trailer YES....Alum trailer ...No Problem.

Box tube trailers the wiring can be run inside. On C channel they make spring clips.

When I put the side markers on steel trailers....I drill and tap the trailer for 10/32 stainless machine screws. When the screws are installed I add some liq elec. tape to the threads.....I've been watching one trailer for 4yrs now from doing that.....No problems.


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## kanaka

X-Shark said:


> While that will work..... 5200 is like antiseze......Open the can and the crap jumps on you.


I've had to accept the fact that anytime I use 5200, I'll be wearing it for a couple of weeks.


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## Jason

kanaka said:


> I've had to accept the fact that anytime I use 5200, I'll be wearing it for a couple of weeks.


Heck I wore latex gloves and still had it all over me!!!:001_huh::yes:


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## NKlamerus

X-Shark said:


> Actually I did and put a link. Reread down a little.
> 
> This stuff is not tinned wire. They is no bundled trailer wire that is tinned that I've ever seen.
> That's not to say you can't use tinned wire.... It will be more expensive and will be more work. It also will corrode if water gets to it.
> 
> The name of the game is seal it up Watertite.


Found it  Ive ordered some as well 

Someone "rewired" the work trailer last week. Now the clearance lights blink with the brakes and the blinker. 

Do you have any recommendations for fender lights


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## X-Shark

NKlamerus said:


> Found it  Ive ordered some as well
> 
> Someone "rewired" the work trailer last week. Now the clearance lights blink with the brakes and the blinker.
> 
> Do you have any recommendations for fender lights



On the clearance lights ..... I guess they didn't wire them into the Brown wire's ?

Fender Lights :

Remember me saying about keeping the lights out of harms way? 

Mounting lights on fenders is putting them in harms way. You always see lights that are on fenders that are Smashed!

I recommend you do something different.


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## NKlamerus

X-Shark said:


> On the clearance lights ..... I guess they didn't wire them into the Brown wire's ?
> 
> Fender Lights :
> 
> Remember me saying about keeping the lights out of harms way?
> 
> Mounting lights on fenders is putting them in harms way. You always see lights that are on fenders that are Smashed!
> 
> I recommend you do something different.


Yeah they added all black wire extensions. Probably mixed one of them up. 

These are going on a closed trailer for work, not a boat trailer. I totally agree on smashing them on a boat, the fenders Barely survive lol


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## NKlamerus

Quick question on grounding.

We rewired the enclosed trailer tonight, and all 6 top clearance lights and both tail lights are grounded to the frame. 

We also ran the white and blue wire for the Electronic Brakes straight to the wires coming off the brake assemblies at the hubs. (Straight from 7 pin, to hubs) 

Is relying on the ball for a ground for the lights fine? Or should we splice the white ground for trailer brakes into the frame somewhere?


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## Jason

When I got advice from Bobby about wiring years ago....I will NEVER ground another set of trailer lights to the trailer.....


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## NKlamerus

Jason said:


> When I got advice from Bobby about wiring years ago....I will NEVER ground another set of trailer lights to the trailer.....


Were these on a boat trailer or on a regular pavement pusher?


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## Jason

NKlamerus said:


> Were these on a boat trailer or on a regular pavement pusher?


Just a boat trailer but I would do it on both my car hauler and utility too... I think I already did my car hauler but picked up a utility a few years ago and haven't done anything to it yet....


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## murfpcola

How do you tie in each clearance light? Do you tap into your wires that are running back to your tail lights?


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## OLDBOB

This is a really great post, but I have to ask a very serious question, how do you light up your Christmas tree. It must be fantastic. Nothing like doing a job right. You have definitely set a new standard. Really, a great job.


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## X-Shark

murfpcola said:


> How do you tie in each clearance light? Do you tap into your wires that are running back to your tail lights?


I use a razor blade and split the harness at each light.

2 wires go in one end of a Butt connector and 1 wire in the other end.

I buy "special" connectors for this. 

Example : Yellow Butt connector is Yellow all over, but has a Blue stripe on one end. The inner barrel is smaller for a 14 / 16ga wire on the Blue stripe end.

And I know your going to ask.............. Available @ National Standard Parts.


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## daniel9829

Thank to all of the guys about how you wire a trailer. I was going to ground tgth of the he white line to the trailer but I think that I will run an ground wire the length of the trailer. 
Thanks.


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## X-Shark

NKlamerus said:


> Quick question on grounding.
> 
> We rewired the enclosed trailer tonight, and all 6 top clearance lights and both tail lights are grounded to the frame.
> 
> We also ran the white and blue wire for the Electronic Brakes straight to the wires coming off the brake assemblies at the hubs. (Straight from 7 pin, to hubs)
> 
> Is relying on the ball for a ground for the lights fine? Or should we splice the white ground for trailer brakes into the frame somewhere?


I don't use lights that have 1 wire and rely on mounting them for the ground...In fact if I had them...they would be thrown in the trash can.

The lights I show at the beginning side markers I'm talking.....also used as clearance lights have 2 wires and the white is Ground. The system I use...Yes use it on a road trailer too.

As to grounding thru the ball. I bet you have never followed one down the road at night.....I can always spot them. Sitting still in the driveway the lights work fine. But going down the road...every little bump makes the lights flicker.
The answer is .....Don't use the ball as a Ground.

Can't remember if I covered this? You will need a Ground wire going to the trailer frame if you have surge brakes...This ground will complete the circuit on the reverse lockout solenoid.


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## FIRST THERE

FYI, i put some of those Optronic lights on my trailer over a year ago. they still work great, I also got a set of butt connectors that you see on face book, the type that solder the wires and heat shrink around the wire, hey they work great too, especially when you dip them in liquid electric tape. water proof. tg


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## FIRST THERE

Update on the Optronic lights, still working great. that's two years now


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## X-Shark

And I actually installed 2 New ones along with new mounts on a Boat trailer rewire Yesterday. 


When I sent a pix to customer....He said oh Wow....I had the lights on Poles so they wouldnt go bad.......


I explained.....In 20yrs I've had 1 light with a partial failure. IE: Not all the LEDs would light......and the secret is.....A waterproof / sealed system.....No using the trailer frame as the Ground circuit ...except for the reverse lockout solenoid.


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## FIRST THERE

Yep, and I took your advice and very happy. I ordered a large sealed 7 pin plug from Amazon, heavy duty. except the wire colors do not line up with what is normal on a trailer. but my lights are solid for a while. I put new side markers on this year and ran new wire. I used some butt connectors I got from facebook. They have a solder joint in the middle and when you heat them up the solder melts and the connector shrinks around the wire, but i also wrapped the connections with 600v tape. I am on a mission. thanks for the info on the lights.
wait until i post what I did with my axles. over kill, of course but...


tg


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