# MinnKota Riptide and Rust



## salty_dawg

(I posted the same in General Discussion but figured the trolling motor audience in this form may be larger.)

I have a MK Riptide about 3 years old which has some nicks from just normal use which have now resulted in rust starting to form on the propulsion motor. Also, there are a couple of larger areas where the paint is blistering and will eventually start to peel off. 

Considering that it is out of warranty, I contacted MinnKota to see what they recommend and they have a very specific process on how to fix the problem, including what kind of paint to buy. So I contacted the paint manufacturer and the color code is actually a custom color and I would have to order 20 cans minimum. There is a more generic white that you can order which I would only need to buy 6 cans. 

If you're interested in helping out with the purchase, send me a PM. Depending on the number of responses I get will determine if I do the custom color or generic. Cost would be about $10 per can.

If you want to look it up yourself, here is the custom paint color.
Cardinal A-4101-67194 (Aerosol, touch up air dry acrylic enamel)

And before anyone suggests it, NO, I'm not going to get a can of Rustoleum from Home Depot instead. Already investigated this option. Not good feedback.


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## WeighGood24

I had the same issue with my riptide earlier this year. I called and talked to a rep at Minn Kota and they told me to prep the area (sand, scrape and clean) then use any type of epoxy based paint. Ended up doing the prep work and used appliance epoxy to touch up the motor head. So far so good. That was a few months ago. Just my 2 cents if you can't find anyone to split the price. Good Luck.


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## salty_dawg

WeighGood24 said:


> I had the same issue with my riptide earlier this year. I called and talked to a rep at Minn Kota and they told me to prep the area (sand, scrape and clean) then use any type of epoxy based paint. Ended up doing the prep work and used appliance epoxy to touch up the motor head. So far so good. That was a few months ago. Just my 2 cents if you can't find anyone to split the price. Good Luck.


You happen to recall the brand of paint you used?


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## WeighGood24

Believe it or not it was rustoleum appliance epoxy. I was pretty skeptical about it as well but decided to give it a shot. I'm glad I did now.


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## 153 Large fish

I would recommend upping the prep process, I own and operate Absolute Professional Painting & Drywall in Pensacola, and we deal with rust issues every day...you should:
Scrape any loose paint.
sand the rusted area to bare metal.
apply Ospho (phosphoric acid bought at paint store) (it converts the iron oxide [rust] to iron phosphate [paintable] chemically.
after 24 hours wipe the Ospho residue with a rag saturated in lacquer thinner.
apply red oxide primer...3 coats!
sand with 220, being careful not to remove the primer just buff it lightly.
then paint with desired oil or epoxy based paint 2-4 coats...
you will have better than factory results...


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## spinfactor

153 Large fish said:


> I would recommend upping the prep process, I own and operate Absolute Professional Painting & Drywall in Pensacola, and we deal with rust issues every day...you should:
> Scrape any loose paint.
> sand the rusted area to bare metal.
> apply Ospho (phosphoric acid bought at paint store) (it converts the iron oxide [rust] to iron phosphate [paintable] chemically.
> after 24 hours wipe the Ospho residue with a rag saturated in lacquer thinner.
> apply red oxide primer...3 coats!
> sand with 220, being careful not to remove the primer just buff it lightly.
> then paint with desired oil or epoxy based paint 2-4 coats...
> you will have better than factory results...


Good advice


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## salty_dawg

153 Large fish said:


> I would recommend upping the prep process, I own and operate Absolute Professional Painting & Drywall in Pensacola, and we deal with rust issues every day...you should:
> Scrape any loose paint.
> sand the rusted area to bare metal.
> apply Ospho (phosphoric acid bought at paint store) (it converts the iron oxide [rust] to iron phosphate [paintable] chemically.
> after 24 hours wipe the Ospho residue with a rag saturated in lacquer thinner.
> apply red oxide primer...3 coats!
> sand with 220, being careful not to remove the primer just buff it lightly.
> then paint with desired oil or epoxy based paint 2-4 coats...
> you will have better than factory results...


So I finally got around to doing this. I actually tried one method before I received your response and it didn't last. Your directions were very specific so I figured you knew what you're talking about. I ended up getting the Evinrude/Johnson touch-up paint in white for the finish coat. Have not had a chance to get it wet but will let you know how it goes. The finish does look better than my first time around. The problem with the first try was the paint chipped off where the latches lock the motor in. I hope not to have to do this again for a long time. Whole process took about 4 days.


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## tkh329

Looks good! Please keep us updated about how it holds up.


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## salty_dawg

Bad news, the paint started chipping where the roller brackets lock the motor in. In a couple of spots, it even chipped down to the bare metal. I've come up with what I hope will be a good solution and will keep you posted on how it works out.


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## kanaka

Ya gonna Rino Line/Line X it?


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## JoeyWelch

Motor Guide maybe????


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## salty_dawg

kanaka said:


> Ya gonna Rino Line/Line X it?


That actually is not a bad idea. I'll look into that. Not sure how well it would hold up in saltwater but it is worth inquiring about. I just need to be sure the coating doesn't make the overall diameter too large to latch into the bracket.


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## salty_dawg

jlw1972 said:


> Motor Guide maybe????


Motorguide wireless was the first unit I ever bought. Had the drive unit repaired the first year, went out again a year later. $800 unit sold at garage sale for $50 in less than 2 years. 

I have had the MK for about 3 years and love it. Have had to get it repaired once but it isn't near as flaky as the MG was.


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