# My Custom Kayak Trailer Build



## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

So I asked you guys for help finding a boat trailer I could used as a platform to build a trailer for my 6 kayaks. You guys delivered and Saturday I brought my new project home.









It is going to need a little bit of work, but for a 44yo trailer, its in great condition.

I spent an hour or so removing the boat hardware and shaving of about 60-70lbs.









I only have a couple more pieces to remove but since this trailer has a tilt deck, I first have to drill a couple holes and bolt the tongue in place and then I can remove the pin and safety chain.










As you can see here, the only major rust is a thin layer on the inside of the crossbeams. I was able to scrape out quite a bit of it fairly easily. I will be hitting it with a wire brush and then some gel rust remover and converter. The rest of the rust is light surface rust that will come off with some steel wool.

After I remove the rust and hit it all with a pressure washer to clean any surface debris, I will be priming the frame with a Waterbased primer (probably Bullseye 1-2-3) then I will paint it. I will probably go with roll on Rustoleum Hammered Silver. The hammered finish makes for super easy touch-ups and is pretty durable.









Also, you may notice the wheels are different sizes. One is 13" with a 185/70 car tire and the other a 14" with a proper trailer tire, but both are quite old. The rims are a bit rusty as well so I just ordered a brand new set of 13" wheels & tires!










I am also going to replace the leaf springs as the current ones are meant for the weight for a 17' boat and are super bouncy with such a light load (they are also really rusty). Also there will be new mounting hardware as well and I'm going to clean up and paint the axle and spindles (probably going with a glossy black).

When I get the platform cleaned and painted, I will then start on the deck, kayak rack, and storage. 

I spent a couple of hours last night working in SketchUp. Here is where I'm at right now:









The deck will be treated 1"x8" deck boards with 1/4" gaps between them for drainage purposes. I am going to put a few coats of oil on them for added protection and longevite. The left side of the deck will be open storage with expanded metal mesh on the sides. The right side will be a locking storage box for my paddles, PFDs and other gear. I'm thinking it will also have expanded metal mesh sides for ventilation and a treated and painted plywood top. There will also be multiple eye bolts on the corners of the deck for tie down points. 

I will also shorten the tongue by 2-3' since the trailer is currently 20' long and the longest kayak I would buy is 17.5' (the longest kayak I currently own is just shy of 14').

I will keep posting pictures as I go. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I will be able to get SOME work done this week.


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## dsar592 (Oct 12, 2007)

Looking good!!


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

I have also ordered an LED light kit from Amazon:








This will be the LAST thing I install so I don't screw it up in the building process.

Also, what do you guys think about fold away tongues? Since my tongue is so long compared to my trailer, do you think its would be worth spending $90 for the hinge?


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## murfpcola (Aug 28, 2012)

Looking good. I would only consider the folding tongue if it makes the trailer short enough to store in a desired location, such as a garage. You may want to look at putting a barrier of some type between the treated wood and the galvanized frame. Pressure treated wood will react with and corrode galvanized steel. since yours will be painted it may not be near as bad but worth looking into. You could use something as simple as tar paper.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

murfpcola said:


> You may want to look at putting a barrier of some type ...You could use something as simple as tar paper.


I didn't think about that, I will look into some sort of barrier, I bet something as simple as a bead of silicone would do the trick.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

Here is a mockup (with 3' removed from the tongue) and the 17.5' kayak that I want to eventually buy.


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## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Spend a little extra change and buy composite deck boards instead of pressure treated.... Storage and lots of tie downs (maybe D rings that lay purty flat when not in use!


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

I have looked into composite, and its not just a little extra change. The cheapest composite I have been able to find is more than twice the price. (Wood $60 vs Comp $140+shipping). Unless you know of somewhere I can get it for cheaper.

I think oiled wood will be the best route. Most likely I'm going to build a shelter on the side of the shed I'm building next year to store the trailer in when not in use.


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## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

You check Lowes fer the composite? We had another thread about making trailer rails outta them due to corrosion and didn't think it was drastically higher.... Might need more bracing to use decking of any sorts so there isn't any bowing of the wood/composite. Make sure you keep posting...we love projects!!!!


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## murfpcola (Aug 28, 2012)

Do you really need to deck the whole thing? I understand in the boxes but you might save some money and weight by using less decking


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## NoMoSurf (Oct 2, 2007)

Dang!

Following this with interest. I only have 2 yaks, so I just took a single Jetski trailer and moved the bunks over to one side. Then installed a second set. So it looks like a double jetski trailer, just really narrow.

Oh, and you have way too much time on your hands with the CAD... haha


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

murfpcola said:


> Do you really need to deck the whole thing? I understand in the boxes but you might save some money and weight by using less decking


My first design had 3/4" treated plywood under the boxes, but I figured if I extended it out the back, I would have a 2'x5' area to strap down other things (like coolers or a portable grill). I then moved to expanded steel mesh, until I found out how expensive the stronger stuff was and then switched to the current plan of treated wood deck boards.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

NoMoSurf said:


> Dang!
> Oh, and you have way too much time on your hands with the CAD... haha


It really doesn't take too long to whip up a 3d version of something. I use the free version of SketchUp. I like using it to get an exact idea of how stuff will look and it really helps with getting a good idea of materials needed. When drawing it on paper, I always forget something. But in 3D, I can look at everything to scale and know when my estimations don't add up.


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## Kenton (Nov 16, 2007)

Subscribed


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

The new wheels+tires came in today! But they aren't going to be put on until the trailer is painted!


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

Here is a picture of the wheels & tires.


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## Emerald Ghost (Mar 11, 2008)

As thorough as you are with this project, have you considered taking the stripped trailer frame and having it galvanized hot dipped ?


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## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

You should check out BMO on Davis Hwy, P'cola.
They have in the past had composite decking, brand new leftovers, etc. for cheap.

Might consider leaving frame out the back to take first hit from whatever versus the yaks. Like if your backing up and do not see that post.

I would deck the whole thing and see how to make everything above the deck constructed as a module. Then you can slide it all off when you want to haul other stuff.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

Emerald Ghost said:


> As thorough as you are with this project, have you considered taking the stripped trailer frame and having it galvanized hot dipped ?


I'm trying to keep the overall cost of this project down and getting it re-glavanized would just cost too much. I'm going to clean it up well, grind off the rust that I can and use rust converter on the rest. Then coat the raw metal spots with cold-gal and then prime and paint it. Since it will never be put in the water, It should hold up for a while this way. I am using hammered paint, so any spot touchups I have to do in the future will be easy to deal with.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

johnsonbeachbum said:


> You should check out BMO on Davis Hwy, P'cola.
> They have in the past had composite decking, brand new leftovers, etc. for cheap.


Thats a good idea, I'll check with BMO, I haven't seen any decking material there before, but I may have just missed it. I wish they had a request list.



> Might consider leaving frame out the back to take first hit from whatever versus the yaks. Like if your backing up and do not see that post.


 I have 2 feet of deck in the back already. I could probably mount the longer kayaks on the 2nd rack to prevent all but semi's and bro-dozers from hitting them.



> I would deck the whole thing and see how to make everything above the deck constructed as a module. Then you can slide it all off when you want to haul other stuff.


I was probably going to do just this. At very least the kayak rack is going to be removable. Though there would be nothing to stop things from rolling off the edges if the straps fail.

If I wasn't trying to keep costs down, I could surround the entire trailer deck with a 12" side wall of expanded metal mesh. then it would be more like a traditional trailer.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

The LED kit from Amazon......Using Scotchlock connector's are a No No.....That wire harness has a Ground wire that is only 18in long. Another No no.

The lights I bet have no ground wire and rely on the trailer frame for a Ground.....Another no no.

Put it all together and it will work...... for a short time and then you will be asking WHY your lights don't work?

The answer will be....Bad Grounds.


Painted White steel wheels will rust quickly around salt water.


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## Emerald Ghost (Mar 11, 2008)

What aftermarket kit do you recommend X Shark ?


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

None..... I do Not use a kit, rather a selected few items.


http://www.pensacolafishingforum.com/f23/wiring-trailer-right-way-741777/#post6367321


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## murfpcola (Aug 28, 2012)

It has been a few years since I have bought one but both my boat trailers hav a harness from Robs Hitch Center. It has two ground wires that are full length. That way you have a ground wire run all the way to the light.


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## bobinbusan (Feb 16, 2010)

Need some finished up pictures, keep us in the loop on this project :thumbsup:


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## Orion45 (Jun 26, 2008)

admiller said:


> I didn't think about that, I will look into some sort of barrier, I bet something as simple as a bead of silicone would do the trick.


No. The weight of the boards will compress the silicone.

Use tar tape...just like pontoon boat builders use.

You could also consider using composite boards like Choice Deck vice pressure treated wood. You'll need more support members and it will be costlier but it will outlast the trailer..


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## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

murfpcola said:


> It has been a few years since I have bought one but both my boat trailers hav a harness from Robs Hitch Center. It has two ground wires that are full length. That way you have a ground wire run all the way to the light.


Just find a 50' extension cord on sale and cut in in 1/2, wire from there + you have a ground wire too.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

bobinbusan said:


> Need some finished up pictures, keep us in the loop on this project :thumbsup:


Nothing got done this week due to the constant rain this week. I need some dry days to start getting rid of the rust.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

kanaka said:


> Just find a 50' extension cord on sale and cut in in 1/2, wire from there + you have a ground wire too.


I found a 25' Reese bonded 4-wire cable for $13.50.

An extension cable only has 3 wires.


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## Splittine (Nov 24, 2007)

I'd take them painted wheels back. Get straight galvanized. Stay away from steel and painted on anything near saltwater.


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## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

admiller said:


> I found a 25' Reese bonded 4-wire cable for $13.50.
> 
> An extension cable only has 3 wires.


So, you are using more than 3 wires per side, including ground, for brake lights????? Side markers always need splices so that's a separate wire.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

X-Shark said:


> The LED kit from Amazon......Using Scotchlock connector's are a No No.....That wire harness has a Ground wire that is only 18in long. Another No no.


Where I work we have loads of stuff outside and I have waterproofed tons of connections. All of the connections will be a soldered western union type splice/tap with liquid electric tape covered with adhesive lined heatshrink tube. 

I am also going to be buying proper bonded 4-wire cable.
I could not locate a trailer lighting kit online anywhere near this price with proper cables/connections. This one gave me well reviewed LED lights and a bunch of extra parts for other projects for cheaper than buying them separately.



> The lights I bet have no ground wire and rely on the trailer frame for a Ground.....Another no no.


The ground on these is a separate wire, though it does have a ring connector that is meant to be placed on the bolt when attaching it to the trailer. I will be removing the ring and soldiering the wire directly to the ground wire.



> Painted White steel wheels will rust quickly around salt water,


It won't really be around salt water all that much, It will get a little bit of saltwater on it when I load the kayaks but I always hose everything down as soon as I get home.


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## Splittine (Nov 24, 2007)

Good luck with that. They will still rust if steel.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

kanaka said:


> So, you are using more than 3 wires per side, including ground, for brake lights????? Side markers always need splices so that's a separate wire.


White=Ground
Brown=Running lights & side markers
Green= Right Turn + Stop
Yellow=Left Turn + Stop


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## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

So, once again, how many wires PER REAR LIGHT?


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

*Getting close..*

So it has been a while. I have been busy traveling for work and I have been working on this project on and off.

Here is where I am at right now:
I have stripped all of the corrosion off of the frame. I coated it with rust converter to get rid of any remaining rust. I painted it with a good primer, then gave it 3 coats of the Silver rustoleum hammered paint.









The new lights have been installed, but not wired yet. I am going to try to get that done tonight. All of the wiring is 16/18ga and all connections will be coated with dielectric grease and covered with heat-shrink tubing. Then will be wrapped in 3/8" split wire loom. 









I had a brand new axle built (narrowed the width by 4") with new hubs and all new suspension hardware.









I cut about 2 feet from the tongue and installed a new coupler and some safety cables. 









All of the bolts are stainless steel.

When the wiring is done, I will be picking up deck boards for the trailer deck, and when those are installed, I will be picking up all of the metal I need for the storage box and kayak stands.


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## 60hertz (Oct 1, 2007)

kanaka said:


> So, once again, how many wires PER REAR LIGHT?


Three.


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## boatnbob (May 31, 2009)

*Tip regarding the deck boards*

Let those suckers air dry some. After I put mine on my trailer the last time pressed hard against each other, I ended up with 1/2" gaps in them when they dried! Also, do not let the "treated" lumber come into contact with the metal. I know you painted it, but buy some "peel and stick" material and cover the surface that the boards will come into contact with. The silicone will not be sufficient to prevent the wood contacting the metal. The peel and stick will also serve to absorb any vibration that will wear the paint through.

Looking good. Like the design software you are using. Take your time and have fun building it. Are you going to use some sort of square tubing frame for the racks? Smart move on replacing the axle. Looks real good. 

Cheers,

Bob


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## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Do not bolt the ground wire to the trailer....use the connector that runs the ground from the lights to the plug. It doesn't matter whether you screw it into the trailer or use an existing bolt. Those white wheels will rust out quickly....If you plan on keeping them, paint them with rustoleum black.


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## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

60hertz said:


> Three.


It was a question for the OP. If you cut a extension cord in 1/2 and have one on each side of the frame, how many wires are there on each side? :whistling: I'd rather have a thick covering containing those wires plus it's cheaper than one of those trailer wiring kits.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

boatnbob said:


> Let those suckers air dry some. After I put mine on my trailer the last time pressed hard against each other, I ended up with 1/2" gaps in them when they dried!


Thats good to know.. how long should I let them dry?



> ...buy some "peel and stick" material and cover the surface that the boards will come into contact with...The peel and stick will also serve to absorb any vibration that will wear the paint through.


Like peel and stick roofing material?



> Looking good. Like the design software you are using.


Its called Sketch Up



> Are you going to use some sort of square tubing frame for the racks?


Yes, the main support in the middle will be 2" and the racks will be 1.25"-1.5" depending on whats available.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

kanaka said:


> It was a question for the OP. If you cut a extension cord in 1/2 and have one on each side of the frame, how many wires are there on each side? :whistling: I'd rather have a thick covering containing those wires plus it's cheaper than one of those trailer wiring kits.


I have 25' of bonded 4 conductor 16/18GA trailer wire. It is of sufficient size, and it will fit nicely into the wire loom. It only cost me about $13

If you look at the diagram on my previous post, you will see exactly how I will be wiring this trailer, (ground is black not white in that illustration). 

All of the splices will be soldered, coated with dielectric silicone grease, and heat shrink wrapped.


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## admiller (Jul 23, 2016)

Jason said:


> Do not bolt the ground wire to the trailer....use the connector that runs the ground from the lights to the plug.


There will be a ground cable directly soldered to all lights.



> Those white wheels will rust out quickly....If you plan on keeping them, paint them with rustoleum black.


When they start rusting, I will take care of them. I may even paint them blue!


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## OHenry (Apr 28, 2011)

Looks good. Keep those updates coming!


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