# "Matilda" rebuild



## Sea-r-cy

First off, let me say I hate working on a fiberglass boat. Itchy, sticky glue, lots of grinding, a big mess, etc. Not my element.

My wife and I enjoy camping out in a boat, not an option with my center console. Not having a large amount of $'s to sink in a "camping" boat, I found this jewel on Craigslist.

It's a 25' Starcraft all aluminum with an I/O. The boat had been sitting for quite some time, all the wood was rotten and the engine seized.

Today was the third day I've worked on stripping the hull. It came with a nice half grown resident opossum, two mice, and a few hundred ants.

Day one, I removed as much rotten floor as possible, all the interior cabinets and walls. 

Day two, I removed the rest of the floor and took out the styrofoam blocks. 

Day three, today, I removed the outdrive, engine, and all other related parts. Then, I removed the stern cap and pulled out the mostly rotten transom.

Tomorrow, I'm going to put the foam in storage, then power wash the insides. Hopefully, I'll install the new plywood transom. I'm going back with the original thickness, then add another 3/4 on the inside. The I/O stays out, I'm using a bracket and outboard. Stay tuned!


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## Sea-r-cy

More photos. Didn't the transom come out easily? A major pain in a fiberglass boat. And, no rotten stringers. The inside of the boat still looks almost new. No corrosion anywhere.


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## BananaTom

Wow. That a project!!! 

Subscribed


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## sureicanfish

That is one ugly boat....for now. Stay at it!!


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## NoMoSurf

Ah an old Starcraft! There is a special place in my heart for them.

I bought a 21ft Mariner last year to do the same. I got the hull stripped all the way down only to find the inside was eaten up with saltwater in the foam. It ate the aluminum like swiss cheese, but left the paint. So from the outside it looked fine. I got three aluminum welders to look at it and none would touch it. I ended up parting it out. The wife declared no more projects and made me buy a Cape Horn 21...

I REALLY wanted the Starcraft to happen... I want to see updates on this.

PS, there is ALOT of good info in the Starcraft section on iBoats.


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## RMS

Love your engine hoist!


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## NoMoSurf

RMS said:


> Love your engine hoist!


I wish I had one like it. I need to "hoist" some dirt...


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## FishinFreak

Lots of hard work, but what a fun project!


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## Fast Eddie

Is anyone else having trouble viewing pictures?


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## barefootin

Nice bones on that Starcraft. Are you going to fabricate a sort of Dusky drive off the stern?


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## Jason

Man, can't wait to see her all done!!!


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## SHO-NUFF

You are a heck of a lot more dedicated than I am.. It's too damn hot to fish, much less work on a boat! 
Looking good though.


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## Sea-r-cy

This morning, I hauled the remain of the old floor, cabinets, and other trash to the landfill, around 500#. I "tipped" the inmates at the landfill a bucket of ice with cokes and gatorade for off loading my trailer.


Then, I bought 3 sheets of 3/4 BC plywood for my transom. The original only was 1 1/2" thick, but I went with another layer since it's going to have a bracket attached. Marine grade glassed together probably would have been better, but availability and cost made me go back with the same plywood as the original.

After I cut out the pieces using the old transom as a pattern, I used structural glue to hold the pieces together. Then I ran stainless screws from the inside to hold it all together. No stainless touched the aluminum. The plywood fitted great, only needed a couple of "love taps" with my excavator bucket to go down snugly. 

This afternoon, I'll put the stern cap and all the bolts back in the stern. It's 5200 time!


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## Boardfeet

You may be able to put a small generator in the old engine compartment and have an air conditioned camper boat!
nice


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## Sea-r-cy

Boardfeet said:


> You may be able to put a small generator in the old engine compartment and have an air conditioned camper boat!
> nice


I have considered this. However, I'm trying to keep it simple (and cheap). I have a small Honda, might install a 5,000 btu ac and run it off the portable Honda.


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## NoMoSurf

Damn! Someone is on the ball with this.

I should have spoken up when I saw that you were redoing the transom. I have 1-1/2 inch thick sheet of Coosa Board that would have been the bomb for that. I bought it from X-Shark to do the transom in my Starcraft. I still have it after parting the hull out.


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## Starlifter

Try covering any exposed skin in baby powder before starting any fiberglass work. I've only tried it once so far, and it worked pretty good. I saw it on an automotive show. The idea is the baby powder clogs your pores, giving fiberglass no place to go.


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## Sea-r-cy

I've found a better way than talc, I just don't do any fiberglass!


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## Lawdog88

Looks like you are doing one heck of a job.

On the transom's aluminum skin, what are your plans to fill the outdrive hole ? Gonna put something over it, seal and screw, or weld ?

Great goings on, my man. And, although it's tough, I promise not to covet your excavator !


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## Sea-r-cy

I have some recycled aluminum from boat gas tanks that I'll put over the hole. Probably either pop rivet (if I can find some aluminum blind end rivets) or screws. 5200 will go between the layers making a good water proof joint.

No real work on the hull today, just moved around in the yard and power washed it. Man was that thing dirty!


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## Sea-r-cy

Saturday the 15th's work. I finished re-assembling the stern cap, all that is left is a bit of aluminum welding. I also gave the insides of the boat a cleaning, vacuumed out all the loose debris.

I already owned a nice, clean, not-pitted aluminum tank of around 60 gallons, so I looked at the possibilities of placement in the hull. The only practical solution was to move the cabin steps forward a few inches, and install the fuel tank sideways. It will only require minor cutting of the aluminum stringers and will be a fairly easy installation. After the cutting is done, I'll rivet a piece of plywood across the boat under the fuel tank. There won't be any aluminum hull touching the aluminum fuel tank. Black magic marker shows my cut out line.

Yes, I know this isn't the best way to place the tank, I may get some sloshing from side to side with a partly filled tank.


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## Cousin-it

Great Job looking good.cleaned up nice.Cant wait to see her finished!!:thumbsup:


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## off route II

I'm not a structural engineer but I did sleep at a holiday inn last nite.... all joking aside, I don't think I would cut those stringers...


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## 4hooks

What are you going to power it with?


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## Sea-r-cy

off route II said:


> I'm not a structural engineer but I did sleep at a holiday inn last nite.... all joking aside, I don't think I would cut those stringers...


Stringers are not solid the length of the boat, there are 3 pieces from front to back with a butt joint between. I'm going to "sister" a 2x as far forward and aft as possible. It should be stronger than the original.


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## Sea-r-cy

4hooks said:


> What are you going to power it with?


115 Johnson/Suzuki 4 stroke. This one:


http://www.pensacolafishingforum.com/f23/johnson-115-4-stroke-repair-539377/#post4582649


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## off route II

Sea-r-cy said:


> Stringers are not solid the length of the boat, there are 3 pieces from front to back with a butt joint between. I'm going to "sister" a 2x as far forward and aft as possible. It should be stronger than the original.


 I better understand what you are doing now, I was just going by what I could see in the pics, good luck keep posting the progress


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## TeaSea

what a great project! You have a lot more talent than I do,that's for sure:notworthy:


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## fishnfool

awesome looking work. I can't wait to see a pic of the old gal in the water!


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## Sea-r-cy

*Monday 8-17 update*

Finally, I got to put something back in the hull. I cut out and placed 3 pieces of cabin floor. The original styrofoam was ok, so back it went. I also cut out the two bulkhead pieces and loose fitted them. The cut was made for the fuel tank hole, plywood installed in the floor, and I dry fitted the fuel tank. 

This afternoon, I power washed the inside of the fuel tank, and flushed with lots of water. When the water ran out clean, I poured some radiator cleaner in and let sit tonight with some water. Maybe it will clean out a bit more of the insides.


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## kanaka

Are you sealing/encapsulating the plywood you're putting in?


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## Sea-r-cy

No, too much trouble to get a 100% seal. At my age, the plywood will last longer than I will. :whistling: It's a long way from the wood to the keel, where any water would be.


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## kanaka

I was thinking about the transom that got a press fit.


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## Sea-r-cy

A bit of progress was made today. I finished cleaning the fuel tank, and installed a good fuel pick up from another donor fuel tank. I also changed out the old fuel sending unit.
I also fabricated a stern strengthening device. It's nothing more than two layers of 5/8 plywood bolted to the stern at a 90 degree angle. It's bolted 6" on centers. My thinking is that it will help keep the transom from bowing out at the top when I install the bracket.
The fuel tank is set and ready for the hoses, the fresh water tank has been flushed and new hoses installed. I re-installed the styrofoam around the tanks.


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## tkh329

Thanks for sharing. Keep the reports coming!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bama Fish Head

Stupid question - with all of that Styrofoam removed and then placed back the way it is, will it rub and squeak like crazy as the boat moves and flexes while underway or anchored up in a small chop? Or will the sound be deadened by the flooring on top of it?
Look s good good by the way - helluva project this time of year!


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## OLDBOB

off route II said:


> I'm not a structural engineer but I did sleep at a holiday inn last nite.... all joking aside, I don't think I would cut those stringers...


I am. totally agree. They are very deep and I'm sure that they serve a very important purpose.


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## OLDBOB

The work you are doing looks great and very well executed.


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## Jason

I keep breaking out into a sweat when looking at this thread!!!! I'd do it in an AC'd building!!!! hahaahaha great work and keep it up!


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## Sea-r-cy

Today, I cut and dry installed a couple of the cockpit floor pieces. About all I can do in this area until my fuel hoses arrive. I'm held up on the stern area until I secure an engine bracket, as some bracing welding is going to be done from the transom to the original engine beds.

I removed the windshield, then ripped out the rotten vinyl dashboard covering. It had been contact glued, and left lots of glue residue on the aluminum. So, I sanded off all the glue and am going to paint this area.


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## Sea-r-cy

Today was productive, I used a sander to remove all the paint from where the outdrive went through the hull, cut out and dry fitted an overlay of aluminum. I also cut out a rough "plug" to fill in the outdrive hole.Then, I fabricated a set of "knees" out of 1/4" aluminum. These will be bolted to the original engine bed for more transom support. 

A new bracket will be ordered today, haven't had any luck finding a used one.

I also replaced a 1x4 in the bow, removed and replaced the lifting bow ring.

A passing rain showed me where I need to look for cabin leaks. I 5200ed several seams yesterday, I missed a few places.


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## Cousin-it

Doing a fine job, keep us up to date I like to see progress !!!


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## Sea-r-cy

I had to go back to Arkansas for a funeral this week, got my trailer tags and boat stickers. (I licensed it in Arkansas) 

Work was slow on the boat, but got a few things done.

If you want to see what $10 worth of stainless looks like, see photo 1. I received my led bow light and installed it Friday. I also straighten out the port rub rail where someone had wacked a piling. A real pain to remove the bolts, straighten out, and re-install. I turned out better than I had hoped. The stern had several screw holes and a couple of really small places it had corroded through. I cleaned them up and installed ss screws with 5200. (ss and aluminum isn't the best)
I finished the fuel tank plumbing and wiring,then glued and screwed the floor down.
My bracket should be ready this week, then it'll starting looking like a real boat.


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## NoMoSurf

NICE progress. Loving this rebuild. Had to junk my Starcraft 21 that bought to rebuild. Salt had eaten her inside out. So I live vicariously through this build.


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## WhyMe

So you putting Triples on the Ass end Right?...
Lol...looking good.
Whyme


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## Sea-r-cy

It's been a slow period, still waiting for the fabricator to get my bracket done. He did have a new excuse, (#23 on the excuse guide), supposedly he had a major electrical fire from his building to the power pole.

I did re-install my windshield, fixed the bow rail, and started fabricating my dashboard. Kinda a fun part of the build. I'll coat the plywood with fiberglass before using. I also cut out a hole in the transom for my control cables to go through.


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## Jason

A roped steering wheel would be AWESOME in that baby!!!


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## Sea-r-cy

Finally, I got a bracket! :thumbup: I had to go over to Waveland, Ms to pick it up, a nice road trip.
This morning, I bought $80 worth of stainless steel bolts & nuts, and a tube of 5200. After laying out my drill pattern and checking it again, I drilled all the transom. Then I positioned the bracket and drilled one hole all the way through the bracket. A bolt then held everything in place while I drilled the rest of the holes. Then it was an easy "butter 'm up" with 5200 and tighten everything up.
You know you got enough when the 5200 oozes out. :yes:

After cleaning the excess 5200, it was finally time to bolt on the engine. :thumbsup: A real milestone.

P.S. I cheated again using the mini excavator.


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## Jason

holy cow she's getting closer!!!


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## BananaTom

Now you really have me excited for you!!

Now that I know about your dream river trip.


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## Desert Eagle

For what it's worth, there is a Starcraft dealership in Ft. Walton - Gulf Coast Boating Center. I have a 2001 Starcraft 170LE aluminum bass boat.


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## Sea-r-cy

Good progress today. I installed the bilge pumps, (except for a 1 1/8" pipe) and got the bilge area of the boat finished. I went ahead and dry fitted the last piece of floor.

The original boat only had one large bilge pump. I installed a smaller automatic pump as my primary. I also re-installed the original pump with a float switch. The switch will also activate a flashing light and buzzer, as I plan to camp in the boat. Don't want to wake up with water in my boat.:thumbdown:

One thing I've had problems with on this rebuild, small town availability of marine parts. There is no such thing as a piece of 1 1/8" bilge pump hose in the metropolis of DeFuniak Springs. I've also had to order pop rivets, heat shrink connections, and other small pieces.


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## kanaka

Curious, what type of foam are you putting under the floor? Looks like you're cutting it to fit.


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## Sea-r-cy

It's the original white foam blocks. Just like you might use in a floating dock.


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## Ocean Master

I know you are on a budget but I sure would have used a 2 part closed cell foam. It would be so much better.


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## Chapman5011

Very good looking work sir. 
I'm impressed. 

That's gonna be a very nice boat when your done.


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## Sea-r-cy

Ocean Master said:


> I know you are on a budget but I sure would have used a 2 part closed cell foam. It would be so much better.


I think 2 part sticking to the aluminum would be an invitation for corrosion. Any water trapped between the foam and aluminum might eat a hole through the hull. 
I also have a very modern aluminum bay boat, it uses block foam instead of 2 part. I think the manufacturers had a good reason for the white block foam.


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## SHO-NUFF

What type of plywood are you using? I guess you are not laying glass over it or painting it. 
If treated, any concerns about the plywood contact on the raw aluminum causing corrosion from trapped water?
Just curious how long it should last.


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## tbaxl

Ocean Master said:


> I know you are on a budget but I sure would have used a 2 part closed cell foam. It would be so much better.


I just removed a bunch of that silly foam from a project. There is no way I will ever put something like that on a boat, it does not hold water all the way through but does manage to "suspend" it where ever possible. What does make its way to the bottom turns to a nice thick black mold, mind you a little mold does not bother me but it really is a mess to deal with. I may put some foam blocks back below the deck but the, foam the whole bilge, is a mess I hope to never mess with again.


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## speckledcroaker

Wirelessly posted

You can get a two part epoxy polyamide clear paint comes in two gallon kits one gallon hardner one gallon pain, thin as water keep applying to wood till its saturated will make plywood strong as steel and it will never ever rot


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## Sea-r-cy

Plywood is a hardwood faced AC. I did the "boil, freeze, boil, freeze" test on a piece of it. After 2 cycles, there was no swelling or delamination. I bought it at my home town in Arkansas a couple of years ago. It was new old stock (2003 stamp). I gave them $100 for the last 13 sheets they had. :notworthy: (I used to buy lots of wood from them when I was in the cabinet shop business)

I plan to glass the plywood. There will be a vertical piece of plywood from the deck to the coaming. I'll put drains in the rear corner and in the lowest step.


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## Ocean Master

Sea-r-cy said:


> I think 2 part sticking to the aluminum would be an invitation for corrosion. Any water trapped between the foam and aluminum might eat a hole through the hull.
> I also have a very modern aluminum bay boat, it uses block foam instead of 2 part. I think the manufacturers had a good reason for the white block foam.


 That makes total sense to me now..!


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## Sea-r-cy

Slow going as of late. I've been rigging the engine and doing a bit of wiring. Each problem encountered presents an opportunity to improvise. Not wanting to spend major bucks to buy new hydraulic hoses that bolt through the transom, I used a scrap of starboard and 5200 to make my waterproof version. Not beautiful, but it works and is waterproof.


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## tbaxl

Now that is some good engineering on the hydraulic lines.


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## Fast Eddie

Sea-r-cy said:


> Slow going as of late. I've been rigging the engine and doing a bit of wiring. Each problem encountered presents an opportunity to improvise. Not wanting to spend major bucks to buy new hydraulic hoses that bolt through the transom, I used a scrap of starboard and 5200 to make my waterproof version. Not beautiful, but it works and is waterproof.



You could use your existing hoses but have someone like rubber specialties cut and add the hydraulic fittings. What you have there looks fine.


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## Boat-Dude

Looking good, waits for more pics.


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## Sea-r-cy

Good progress the last few days. Most of the little parts came in this week. The motor is hooked up and operational. I overlaid the console with aluminum, and installed the tach, fuel gauge, engine control, and steering. I also installed 3 short pieces of pvc that will drain the cockpit into the bilge. Mechanically, I still lack one float switch. It is on the way and should be here shortly. I like two bilge pumps, peace of mind. The larger pump will be wired to an alarm, just in case I'm sleeping and get a leak.

I'm ready for the fiberglass work to be done inside the cockpit. (anyone want the job?) Then, all the trim work in the cockpit and cabin.

Tomorow, I plan to take it to the Lions park in Niceville and get it wet!

Now, any bets on the top speed? 115 hp, 18 pitch prop. I think around 22 knots or so?


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## Boat-Dude

Looks good dude, how much to you think the boat weighs now?


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## Sea-r-cy

NADA puts the original boat at 3675#. With the I/O gone it weighs probably around 800# less, or around 2875#.


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## Boat-Dude

Nice. Should cruse pretty good.


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## randynation

Man that's one cool looking boat . I love a classic.


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## jcoss15

Nice, your hard work has definitely paid off.


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## Sea-r-cy

A red letter day for Matilda. :thumbup: My wife and I took her to the Lions Park in Niceville for a test ride. The bilge was bone dry the whole trip. (a good thing) We made a short 2 mile test run. The boat jumped on plane quickly, ran out at 26 knots @5500 rpm. This is with an 18 pitch prop, I think a 20 would work out better. There is less engine noise than my other boats (full transom), the metal sounded a bit louder than a glass hull.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the hull and engine combo.


Now I'm ready to start my glass work in the cockpit. :thumbsup:


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## Sea-r-cy

I've contacted a fiberglass pro to do my cockpit glass work. Hope he's not too expensive. :yes:

I did work in the cabin a bit today, installed the ceiling board and re-attached the curtain track. Ceiling looks better than I had hoped. :yes:

Someone was lacking on the engineering of this boat, cabin needed a ceiling board of 8' 2" . Why not make it where an 8' sheet would work? :whistling:


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## Orion45

Sea-r-cy said:


> The boat jumped on plane quickly, ran out at 26 knots @5500 rpm. This is with an 18 pitch prop, I think a 20 would work out better.


Is 5500 rpm your WOT with current prop?

If so, a 20 " pitch will drop it to 5100 rpm at WOT.

What's the recommended WOT range for your engine?

I would wait until the boat is fully completed and all the permanent stuff is onboard before I would start changing props.


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## Sea-r-cy

At 5500, I had plenty of throttle, just didn't want to wind it up any more. Recommended range is 5-6.000. Boat is within 300# of fully loaded. I'll borrow a prop off my Sport Cat for the next test, it has 20's on it.


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## Boat-Dude

My bet is 37mph.


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## Jason

Man I cant wait till it's done....love the looks of that joker!!! Glad she got wet the other day!!!


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## Orion45

Sea-r-cy said:


> At 5500, I had plenty of throttle, just didn't want to wind it up any more. Recommended range is 5-6.000. Boat is within 300# of fully loaded. I'll borrow a prop off my Sport Cat for the next test, it has 20's on it.


Here's something that might help you out.

http://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-slip-calculator/

According to it, you should hit 29 (@5500 rpm) with an 20" pitch prop.


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## Sea-r-cy

This calculator shows in mph, not knots. The boat did run a tad over 30 mph (around 26 knots) with the 18 pitch prop. According to the calculator, it should improve by 3 mph with a 20 pitch.


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## Orion45

Sea-r-cy said:


> This calculator shows in mph, not knots. The boat did run a tad over 30 mph (around 26 knots) with the 18 pitch prop. According to the calculator, it should improve by 3 mph with a 20 pitch.


 The calculator still works. 

I used 26 kts and got 29 kts with the 20" prop.

29 x 1.15 = 33.35 mph

Same as if I had converted kts to mph before entering it in calculator.

I used 2.59 as your gear ratio.


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## Sea-r-cy

Well, my fiberglass guy came today. Sticker Shock!!!!! He said the materials alone would be around $600, and then there's the labor. 

So, in keeping with the tin boat mentality, I'm going to line the floor with aluminum. For the vertical parts, I'm going to use coil stock (house fascia material), and for the floor, I'll go with a heavier aluminum, like a cargo trailer is skinned with. Both should only cost around $250, add a little for rivets, glue, and 5200 (for sealing the joints). This should be easy for me to do, I used to do siding work and still have my brake and other tools. And, I don't have to work with itchy fiberglass. :whistling:

I did get all the wood liner in today, I like the way it looks and went together.


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## tbaxl

I don't know exactly what you have to do but I think I understand, just glass it yourself, other than time it really is not that bad to do and I can not imagine that much for supplies, but again not sure of how much you are doing.


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## Ocean Master

I would still glass in all joints in and around the floor and seal all wood.


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## Sea-r-cy

Decision was made, I decided to go with aluminum in the cockpit. It goes with the theme of the boat well, and will last much longer than I will. I bought the metal in Pensacola at T&C metals. What a place! A warehouse around 300'x100' filled with all types of aluminum. The metal cost around $300.

I cut then used a siding brake to bend the 90's for the corners. The vertical parts of the cockpit used the thinner .034 metal. For the floor, I went with the thicker .068 thickness.

This work session, I installed the vertical pieces. Hopefully today, I'll cut out and install the floor. All the floor pieces will be 5200'ed at all joints. This will make a completely waterproof floor. I'll also put 5200 in the vertical corners after painting the floor.


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## Jason

Are you leaving the metal uncovered....I did a jon boat in bright aluminum paint and folks worried about the sun reflection, but I used alot of carpet and had most of the interier covered. Be worried about that ifin you are out in the bright sun getting the rays from every direction? Liking the progress though!!!


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## Sea-r-cy

I'll paint for sure. Probably use some loose indoor outdoor carpet when we are cruising/camping. I need to be thinking about something in the paint for non-skid.


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## Ocean Master

That's a bright boat..!! Might as well carpet the walls too..!!

I sure would have sealed that wood. It's not going to last very long. Maybe long enough for what you need.


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## Sea-r-cy

Ocean Master said:


> That's a bright boat..!! Might as well carpet the walls too..!!
> 
> I sure would have sealed that wood. It's not going to last very long. Maybe long enough for what you need.


I've got wood in an old Arkansas Traveler flat bottom boat that my Grandad bought in the 1950's. Still solid, and it sat outside for all those years. Where you get wood rot is when wood gets wet and doesn't have a chance to dry out. Most modern boats rot because of water intrusion, and the water can't escape.


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## Sea-r-cy

Finally, I got back to working on Matilda. I've installed the aluminum floor, it's sealed completely. No possibility of water getting to the wood. I used man-made deck material, machined to fit, for the coaming, this boat is going to be super easy to take care of. The deck drains are stainless bar sink drains, I glued and screwed the tail pieces onto the drains to make any water go right to the bottom of the bilge. The drains come with some cute little basket strainers, this should keep hoods and other small items out of the bilge.

Now, what to put on the floor?


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## X-Shark

I have some serious recommendations.










In the pix above...You have used what is sold as "Bilge hose". It's plastic and segmented. 

That stuff should be Outlawed...I've seen it get holes in it in 1 1/2yrs. Then the water just dumps back in the bilge and is not discharged overboard.

The only useful thing I've found for it is a dog toy.










The hose series 141 is a MUCH better choice...It has a plastic helical wire so it doesn't rust and it is smooth bore for max flow.












Now lets talk about the thru hull fittings.

They are installed incorrectly....They should point up.....Not down.

The way they are, a wave comes along and splashes the side of the boat and goes straight into your bilge.

A guy I knew had a boat at Daybreak...He spent the night on the boat waiting on everyone for a early morning run. He wondered why the bilge pump kept cycling?
The install like yours was the answer.

It should be looped up...That is the reason for the fittings pointed Up.

This is the inside of my Parker. If water splashes the side of the boat no water enters.











Hopefully this will save someones boat.


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## Boat-Dude

That is top-O-the-line bilge hose!


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## X-Shark

It's what Parker uses in all their boats......I replaced it with new, as the lengths were longer and the original was 18yrs old at the time. It's Safety Gear ...... Don't skimp!


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## Sea-r-cy

Well, you are a little late with your recommendation!   It would be a major project to change the hoses now.

However, the outlets are a couple of feet above the waterline. If there's any water coming in the thru-hulls, I'm already sunk. So far, there's not even been a drop of water make it inside the bilge.


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## murfpcola

That is some good information X Shark. I have never heard that before about pointing thru hulls up but makes perfect sense. I will have to remember that in the future.


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## Orion45

Looks good.


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## X-Shark

> Well, you are a little late with your recommendation!  It would be a major project to change the hoses now.


Which brings up another subject....... Boat manufactures are cheap... To small of hatches make access to things very difficult.

Boats have to be worked on. That pump can take a crap next year.

Make your life simpler..... Provide large access.... Especially if your building Custom.  
You will appreciate it the first time you have to go back and work on it.


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## Sea-r-cy

X-Shark said:


> Which brings up another subject....... Boat manufactures are cheap... To small of hatches make access to things very difficult.
> 
> Boats have to be worked on. That pump can take a crap next year.
> 
> Make your life simpler..... Provide large access.... Especially if your building Custom.
> You will appreciate it the first time you have to go back and work on it.


I can easily get to the bilge pumps for replacement. If necessary, I can cut a round hole in the sides/back of the cockpit and add a deck plate to access any thing else. Big hatches are expensive, this is a bare bones re-fit. All the wiring, plumbing, etc. are new, they probably will outlast me.


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## Sea-r-cy

Matilda is a swinging old boat. She's hanging from the ceiling while I do a bit of work on her new-to-me trailer. It's a heavy built rig with 6 hole wheels and 15" tires. Most of the bolts had quite a bit of rust, some of the nuts were completely rusted out. I wanted to go stainless, but went with galvanized at 20% the cost. 

I cut out some plexiglass for the cabin door out of some recycled off my Son's house. It was hazy from the sun, a bit of wet sanding made it perfect, translucent, but not transparent. This will give a bit of privacy in the cabin.


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## Boat-Dude

WOW!! very cool!!!!


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## Sea-r-cy

I primed the cockpit area today. As usual, the primer didn't go as far as the can said it would. I did the most important part, the floor. Hope to get the top coats on tomorrow.

I hauled Matilda over to the county's scales. Boat and trailer weight 4520#. I figure the trailer is around 1000#'s, putting Matilda in at around 3500#'s (dry).


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## Boat-Dude

looking good!


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## catfever24

Wow, she`s coming along fine.


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## X-Shark

> I hauled Matilda over to the county's scales. Boat and trailer weight 4520#. I figure the trailer is around 1000#'s, putting Matilda in at around 3500#'s (dry).


The boat will weigh less than that.... That size trailer in alum will weigh 1100lbs - 1150lbs and your's is steel.


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## Sea-r-cy

Matilda has a new-to-me aluminum trailer sitting under her. :thumbup: It was really hard to find a fair-good aluminum trailer that big without paying a lot for it.


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## Sea-r-cy

Today I painted the first finish coat, then later in the day use up the rest of the first gallon. Looking better, it's a rough finish. Hope the finished product will be what I was expecting, looking like a sheetrock ceiling...........


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## sureicanfish

What coating is that? Doesn't look like it wants to be too smooth


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## Sea-r-cy

sure said:


> What coating is that? Doesn't look like it wants to be too smooth


tuff coat http://www.boatoutfitters.com/tuff-coat-rubberized-non-skid-coating


I needed more than paint on the aluminum, it gets really hot in the sun. And slick! :thumbsup:


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## sureicanfish

Gotcha, I misunderstood your post. Yes, it does look like a great non-skid!


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## Jason

Man, that's a project!!! Looking good, and Bobby is a worldbook of great knowledge!


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## OLDBOB

Sea-r-cy said:


> tuff coat http://www.boatoutfitters.com/tuff-coat-rubberized-non-skid-coating
> 
> 
> I needed more than paint on the aluminum, it gets really hot in the sun. And slick! :thumbsup:


 That's supposed to be a great coating. I watched it put on a boat by the manufacturer on Ship Shape TV. Very impressive!


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## Sea-r-cy

Time has come to take Matilda fishing. Tomorrow should be a good test. 2-3' called for, I want to see how she takes a little bit of rough water. I plan to stay fairly close to land, within phone range. :whistling:


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## NoMoSurf

NICE!!! 
Early last year, I bought a Starcraft Mariner 21 to gut and restore.... Only to get her torn down and find that saltwater had eaten the hull out from the inside. I ended up having to part her out. But I did make money end the end. haha

Old Starcrafts will always hold a warm spot in my heart.


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## Chapman5011

The whole restoration has been fun to watch.
Hope you catch some fish to make a few blood stains this weekend


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## Boat-Dude

Awesome, I still wonna see it red with teeth in the front like the ole P51 Mustangs were painted..


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## Jason

Good luck on the maiden voyage!


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## Sea-r-cy

Boy, was I disappointed. :whistling: Forecast called for 2-3' seas, it was dead flat this morning.

Matilda did about as expected today. A slower boat with only 115 hp. She cruises at 20 knots, will top out around 25 knots. I drove her 63 nm, used 25 gallons of gas, around 2.5 nmpg. The boat was able to back down easily, and had a predictable drift. Boat handled good coming in the rough pass this afternoon.

I had two minor problems, 1. the throttle/shifting linkage was stiff, something was binding, not allowing the motor to idle down. 2. Evidently, the recycled fuel tank has/had some trash in it. The fuel pick up stopped up a couple of times, blowing on the fuel line back into the tank cleared it. 

Other than these minor problems, the boat did fine. I remember now why I went to a cat boat. The ride just doesn't compare!

Epilogue: 

Matilda is a good solid boat, but has a couple of shortcomings. 

1. She's horsepower challenged. The 115 is fine for running around the bay, looking cool at Crab Island, and light Gulf fishing.
2. The cockpit is rather small, large enough for 2 fishermen, but would be crowded with more. 

I could repower with a larger motor, but, a new 150/175 is in the 11K-13K price range.
I'd still be stuck with a smaller cockpit that I like.

I'm thinking the best thing to do is to sell Matilda to someone wanting a larger dependable boat for cruising or camping, she would be perfect for this application. :yes:


Matilda will probably be for sale in the near future.


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## NoMoSurf

Sea-r-cy said:


> I'm thinking the best thing to do is to sell Matilda to someone wanting a larger dependable boat for cruising or camping, she would be perfect for this application. :yes:
> 
> 
> Matilda will probably be for sale in the near future.



Oooh! Oooh! OOOOH!!! This guy!

I dont need her, but I sure want her.... Wife is gonna kick my ass for even thinkin about it.


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## Sea-r-cy

NoMoSurf said:


> Oooh! Oooh! OOOOH!!! This guy!
> 
> I dont need her, but I sure want her.... Wife is gonna kick my ass for even thinkin about it.


Wanna go for a test ride? :whistling:


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## WhyMe

Damn. I was wanting more positive feedback when you did your right up after the test drive.
Whyme


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## NoMoSurf

Sea-r-cy said:


> Wanna go for a test ride? :whistling:


I DO!!! :yes:

But I'm about 150-200 miles north of you.


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## lees way2

Dang I was looking forward to the Miss River trip. Great build and reports. Thanks


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## Sea-r-cy

WhyMe said:


> Damn. I was wanting more positive feedback when you did your right up after the test drive.
> Whyme


Like I said, the boat is a great platform, just doesn't fill my needs. I fish 20-30 miles out in the Gulf every trip. Boat is too slow, cost too much to speed it up.


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## WhyMe

I see. I know somebody will get a well built boat from you. Good job.
Whyme.


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## Snagged Line

That was a good read.... Thanks for sharing the build...


Sent through Tapatalk, even though they ruined it with "upgrades"...


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## Sea-r-cy

Epilogue: (a bit late with the post) Sold the boat to a "Great Laker" from Ohio. He really loves the boat, she'll spend the rest of her life in fresh water.


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