# ? on outboard mounts, set back & jack plates



## oldflathead (Oct 3, 2007)

Has anyone used any of the mounts to get their back from the transom? Also, advice wanted on outboard set back to increase efficiency. What experiences have you had with jack plates, hydraulic and manual?










I have several issues mounting my Evinrude 90, 20" shaft on my Panga.

1-The prop will be too high

2-The proximity of the OB to the transom prohibits tilting. It requires 12"

3-If I lower the mount and extend it back???

Any ideas? No new long shaft engines - too many $$$


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## Breeze Fabricators (Oct 2, 2007)

Find some 1/2 inch aluminum plate and I'll build you a stand off bracket. I can buy a 1/2 X 12 wide by 10ft. long from the supplier but don't know what it'll cost. Call me this morning at 554 6172 and we can brain storm this problem. Tim:usaflag


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## Perdido (Oct 4, 2007)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jack-Plate-JPL-4500-Adjustable-6-Outboard-Jackplate_W0QQitemZ300306783191QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBoat_Parts_Accessories_Gear?hash=item45ebaddbd7

I looked on ebay when I read your message and was surprized by the 'fine print' toward the bottom. I am looking to solve the same problem and needed advice on the subject. Good luck, Perdido


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## Breeze Fabricators (Oct 2, 2007)

Looked at it. Not enough set back for him to trim!!!!:doh


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## Perdido (Oct 4, 2007)

I was surprised to see the 'a jackplate will not compensate for a short shaft motor' statement from the manufacturer...I thought that was one of its attributes!


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> *Perdido (11/3/2009)*I was surprised to see the 'a jackplate will not compensate for a short shaft motor' statement from the manufacturer...I thought that was one of its attributes!




Nope it will not.



Now think about it. The jackplate mounts where the motor is supposed to mount in height. The jackplate moves in a upward direction, not a downward direction, until it is moved up.



Tom's problem is he's to short already. The proper way is the proper length shaft for the transom.



A Motor bracket can be the Devil on a short boat. [Especially a boat under 23ft.] As you move the motor back it changes the CG of the boat. This in turn needs to be compensated for by flotation in the bracket tub, when the boat is at rest. But you can still swamp the motor.


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## oldflathead (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks for all of your comments and advice.

Oh well, another TCFUA. It does appear the best solution is a 25" or 30" shaft outboard. I have two good, Evinrude 90HP, 20" shafts which I like. IMO those old John-Rude V-4's were/are very good engines and more than adequate power for my 22' Panga that only weighs 900 pounds. One engine is a spare.










You can see this is just an open fishing boat, no frills. I bought it from a PFFer about a year ago and have repaired the holes in the bottom.










Anyway, it's better than new, epoxy, Nida-Core, additional bulkheads, then foamed and sealed. I have not had it in the water yet, so tomorrow I intend to launch her and see how she floats on her lines. I will use my Yama 8 long shaft kicker to get her across the bayou back to my dock. I plan on setting a 55 gallon barrel in the stern and filling it with about 40 gallons of water, 334 pounds, which is about the same as my Evinrude. Then we will she how she sits and determine if I must get a longer shaft motor or get Tim to build me an aluminum mount which I can bolt on lower.

Anyone with nothing better to do is invited. Launch about 1000.

BOOM, da boom, the drama continues:mmmbeer


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> Then we will she how she sits and determine if I must get a longer shaft motor




Tom, I can tell you that if I try to push the motor to hard on my Scout with a Bob's Machine shop Jackplate with the motor in the up position it will cavatate real bad.



This would be the same thing as your motor mounted high.


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## oldflathead (Oct 3, 2007)

I finally got her in the water, today Saturday, I had to wait until my friends were available.



















I know it's a different type of boat, but they are all over the world working for fishermen who either catch or go hungry.










We guessed on where to take the anti fouling paint. Looks pretty close.










I wanted to see how much 500 pounds would lower the stern, 2" is all. I figure a 300 pound outboard out 18" from the transom is about the same as 500 on the transom.










The bracket must extend back at least 12" in order for the motor to tilt. Since I intend to leave her in the water at my dock, it must tilt all the way up. Tim said he would build me a bracket if I got the aluminum. Anyone know where to get appropriate quality 1/2" thick aluminum?

We named this boat "ODAAT", which means One Day At A Time. 

Any advice, ideas, etc. appreciated.

:mmmbeer


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## jspooney (Oct 2, 2007)

Tom, that is one of the most beautiful boats I have ever seen. I wanther when you're done with her. Also, can you tell me again the name of the honeycomb you used for your repairs and where to get it. I need a small piece for a repair on my Ghenoe. thanks.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> Anyone know where to get appropriate quality 1/2" thick aluminum?




T & C Metals



(850) 438-8280



100 W Herman St, Pensacola, FL 32505


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## Comfortably Numb (Oct 1, 2007)

Can't you get an extension for the lower unit for the outboard?I checked before for a Johnson 225 and it was about $6-800. A company out of South floridaI think. Still less than you will be out for a bracket. I ended up with a flotation bracket on my 23' Mako and really like the way it handles, but I have heard both good and bad from people bracketing shorter boats than mine. Very nice looking boat.I am sure you will enjoy it.


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## welder (Oct 19, 2007)

Tom, I really liking the BRASS binnacle .



And the CC looks like a piece of fine furniture . Isn't it resin impregnated then clear coated ?


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