# Testing BPS Lures



## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

*Testing Popping Lures*

After this last tuna trip with the Head Kned where I found myself with a 20K freshly spooled with #100 PP solid braid which turned out to be so stiff that my best casts were only about 15 yards with various lures. Not what I needed throwing stick baits and poppers to tuna.

Once all settled in back home I stripped that line off both 20K reels and used that braid on a buddies trolling rods with a top shot of #60, so his Penn 30s are good to go now. I spooled each of the 20 K's with 500 yards of PP #80 hollow core and made loops on the ends for loop connections. The next thing I did was to make some new wind on leaders with #100 fluorocarbon to have on hand.

Since I had a disaster with the popping rod I took and a few deep divers that weren't properly tuned I decided to make sure things are good to go before the next tuna trip which a few of us are trying to sort out with work schedules, family schedules, weather and sea states.

I bought some really nice poppers and stick baits but since they had cost so much I never even put hooks on them. They are just office decorations now and probably will be forever. I'll feed a $40 - $60 lure to the sharks but not $100 - $200 + lures.

After that decision I bought some that wouldn't make me cry to lose them, some from online sources, West Marine, Half Hitch Tackle and some from BPS. Yesterday I did the first part of the testing of the lures. I used the same rod I took on Head Kneds trip. The rod is a Shimano Terez, TZS78HPW, rated for #50 - #100 braided line, the reel a Shimano Stella 20K SW, spooled with #80 PP hollow core (blue) with a terminal loop, the wind on leaders is 10 feet, the #100 fluorocarbon leader knotless splice terminated with a Spro #350 swivel and an Owner #250 split ring. All lures were connected with the split ring for uniformity in testing.

All of the lures I tested cost under $40.00 and they looked like they should do the job popping for tuna (except the one old Yo Zuri lure can't even find it online).

In the top pic, the first lure on top on the left is a Braid GT Minnow Large, 7.9", 105 g, factory hooks and connected with the terminal split ring. I made 12 casts with this lure, I used varying amounts of force on the casts, average cast was 30 - 40 yards and about 50 yards or so when I really whaled it. This lure is pretty much useless because it is so buoyant that floats head out of the water over 2 inches and it spyhops all the way in. I know a bigger front hook won't do the trick, I tried a 6/0 X3 treble and it still spyhopped. I'm hoping that I can return these and get the smaller version.

In the top pic, the third lure on top from the left is a Braid GT Minnow Small, 5.5 inches, about 75 g, factory hooks and connected with split ring. I made 1 cast with this lure because I suspected that it might spyhop since it's big brother did and I wasn't wrong. I replaced the front hook with an 6/0 X3 treble and made 12 casts with varying force and averaged 40 - 50 yards, I got a little more when I really whaled it. Once I replaced the front hook with a much larger one the lure ran with great action and I think it will be a fish killer next time out.

In the top pic, top row, fourth lure from the left is a Chinese Halco knock off I bought online. Replaced factory hooks with 6/0 X3 trebles hooks, 8 inches, 4 ounces. I made 12 cast and averaged 30 - 40 yards, lure ran great on the surface, plenty of popping action and it made a great bubble trail. I think this lure will be a fish killer as well.

In the top pic, top row, fifth lure from the left is an Offshore Angler Lazer Eye popper. Factory hooks, 7 inches, internal rattle, about 80 g. I made 12 casts with this lure and averaged about 30- 40 yards, the lure has good action, pops well and makes a decent bubble trail.

In the top pic, top row last lure on the left is a Yo Zuri Hydro Tiger F popper, 5 inches, 1 1/2 oz bumped to a shade over 2 ounces by replacing the factory hooks with 3/0 X3 trebles. I made 12 casts with this lure and averaged 30 - 40 yards, the lure has great action, pops OK, makes a fair bubble trail. I was surprised at how well this lure performed, it will be great for Bonita and Black Fin but the 3/0 X3 trebles may hold a YFT if it isn't a monster.

In the top pic third row up from bottom is the Williamson JP7, factory hooks replaced with Owner SS 9/0 hooks, 7 inches, 4 ounces. I made 12 cast with this lure and averaged about 30 yards, if you really put your back into it you can get a little more distance. This lure has great action, huge pops and makes a tremendous bubble trail. The only problem with the J hooks is that you will miss some hook ups, I missed one right at the boat with this lure. I thought we would put a really big one in the boat for about 10 seconds.

In the top pic, second row from the bottom, left hand lure is a Creek Chub Pin Popper #6, 6 1/2 inches, 2 1/2 ounces, factory hooks. I made 12 casts with this lure and averaged30 - 40 yards, it has great action, not a lot of pop and makes a fair bubble trail.

In the top pic, second row from bottom right hand lure is the Williamson JP5, 5 1/4 inches, 2 ounces, replaced factory hooks with those from a JP7. I made 12 casts with this lure and averaged 40 -50 yards (it casts well) it has great action, big pop and makes a great bubble trail. This lure will be a fish killer as well.

In the top pic, bottom row is an old Yo Zuri stick popper, 8 inches, 4 1/2 ounces, factory hooks. I only made a few casts with this lure because as it is rigged it's another spyhopping failure. I will replace the front hook with an 6/0 X3 treble and see if that will get it to run better. 

In the top pic, top row, second lure from the left is a Rapala X Rap Subwalk 15, factory hooks, 6 inches and a shade over 2 ounces with the heavier hooks. I made 12 casts with this lure and averaged about 30 yards. I used this lure on Head Kneds trip and tuna straightened out the hooks pretty much but is was still ferociously attacked by the predators in the bait balls. You can see in the second pic the teeth marks and tooth fragments they left on it. I replaced the trashed hooks with 2/0 X 3 trebles and I'm buying a few more of these and will rig them with the 2/0 hooks. 

I'll do a part 2 in the testing with a different rod, I'll use either a Cape Cod Black hole Special 80N or a Phenix MPX-S800S to see how much difference it makes from the Terez. I'll also try a bigger front hook on the Yo Zuri to see if I can make it run better.


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

So, what was the result of your casting test? 

More importantly, what, in the name of everything that is holy, is the name of a fishing lure (popper, whatever) that costs $200 American dollars?


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

I'm still working on this post slowly but sure. You want to find some lures that catch more anglers than fish check out some of the hand made one's being sold on 360Tuna. Sometimes it's the angler that is caught and dang I just can't resist sometimes because they are so nice looking. If I ever go back to Newfoundland for the giant BFT I'll be taking those stick baits and poppers.


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

I just typed up a huge post on popping tunas and my phone glitched and I lost the whole damn thing. I'll re type when I get to the store and I'm not pissed about it. 

Figured I'd add in some info about popping for tuna


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

Don't feel bad Chris I lose these posts all the time when I try to type them. So I type a little and save and it takes forever. I guess I could just do it in MSW and just copy and paste.


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## FishFighter92 (Jul 10, 2012)

Ever try a Braid popper? Look em up under Braid lures. They are my number one fish killer for tuna and you can throw them a country mile.


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## Captain Woody Woods (Oct 2, 2007)

*My $0.02*

I'd be surprised if there were many anglers other than the Venice guys that have tested just about every popper on the market. The lure in the top pic, far right, is garbage. I have no idea why it is in the tuna poppers section. It weighs about the same as a bass lure. It is so light that when you pop it, it usually skips right off the top of the water halfway back to you. Yozuri makes a LOT of great products-that popper is not one of them for tuna fishing. Granted you MIGHT could throw it with a super whippy rod, but I doubt it. I use that one for bass fishing. 

You will get a lot of variance on the casting-too many variables, including, but not limited to, angler skill level, wind, technique, rod, terminal connections, etc.

From a charter standpoint, we like the Frenzy popper for a couple of reasons. Decent weight to it, which equals a pretty far cast. Unlike a traditional popper with a cupped face and positively buoyant, the Frenzy does sink, and does not require the normal snatch of the rod tip like most poppers require. You just burn it back to you as fast as you can. Just about any guy can do that. Good price point on them at around $12-14 a lure.

For my personal angling, I have really come to favor the Wombat by OTI. Heavy, exaggerated face on it, casts a mile. The Komodo (I think that's the name) is another good one. Yozuri used to (may still, not sure) make one called the hydro bull or something like that. That was a good one, too. Disadvantages to the OTI popper are price. It's almost $30. Ridiculous. Paint job usually comes off after 2-3 fish, and it's a pretty one too. Wood core. Doesn't seem to affect the bite, but they are pretty right out of the box. The ball bearing swivels at the hooks and eye are nice, too.

The Williamson one is one of the only products Williamson makes that I like. Another heavy one with great action because of the jets drilled in it.

I have never seen busting tuna turn their nose up at one lure over another. When they're actively feeding, especially at night, they're going to destroy just about anything that lands near them. Try to aim where you either just saw a fish bust, or perhaps right where a flying fish just landed. It is absolutely amazing how they can track a flyer after it takes off, just under the surface, and crush it when it lands. Awesome predator.


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

*Gotta poke at you Woody...*

...here's that "garbage" lure you mentioned (Yo Zuri Hydro Tiger) in a 142lb YFT mouth. I'm not sure if that's the bigger one though, I use the one that's around 5". I have caught god knows how many tuna on that bait and will argue that it has a better hook up rate than all these giant topwaters on the market. It is true, however that it doesn't throw as well. With the hook setup I use with it (2/0 Owner ST-66 in belly, 6/0 Mustad 7732 in tail) the lure weighs in at 2 ounces. On rough days though, they won't perform as well. That's where the frenzy poppers and Surface Bulls really shine

I throw the smaller poppers with 7' rods plenty far enough and have the proper action to fight a big tuna efficiently


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## Captain Woody Woods (Oct 2, 2007)

Chris V said:


> I throw the smaller poppers with 7' rods plenty far enough and have the proper action to fight a big tuna efficiently


Maybe you know something I don't then. You'll have to show me your casting technique next time I come down!


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

I talked to Chris last night and he gave me a couple tips about the Braid GT Minnow large. A problem with my test and evaluation of that lure was that my walk the dog technique wasn't what the lure needs for a proper retrieve. I'm going to try it again today and see if I can work it better. This could turn out to be a great tuna catcher.


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

Captain Woody Woods said:


> Maybe you know something I don't then. You'll have to show me your casting technique next time I come down!


They are light for sure on a heavy rod. The key to throwing them is a lob and not a whipping cast. The tuna usually inhale the plug to the point where you have to go through the gills to unhook them


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

OK this is the second attempt to edit the last test with today's test results. The rod used was a Cape Cod Black Hole Special 80N, Stella 20 K SW spooled with #80 PP hollow core braid, loop to loop connections, 10 foot wind on leader, #100 fluorocarbon leader knotless splice, #350 Spro bearing swivel and an Owner #250 split ring.

In the top pic, the first lure on top on the left is a Braid GT Minnow Large, 7.9", 105 g, factory hooks. I made six casts with this lure, average cast was 60 yards. This lure is supposed to be a walk the dog type but I just can't seem to make it walk except every now and then. Mostly what this lure does is flop on it side and skip across the waters surface for the whole retrieve. This lure casts distance real well but I can't seem to make it run the way it's supposed to.

In the top pic, the third lure on top from the left is a Braid GT Minnow Small, 5.5 inches, about 75 g, font hook 6/0 X3 treble, rear hook factory. I made six casts that averaged 50 yards. This lure ran walk the dog action subsurface with just a steady retrieve.

In the top pic, top row, fourth lure from the left is a Chinese Halco knock off I bought online. 6/0 X3 trebles, 8 inches, 4 ounces. I made six casts and averaged 45 yards. 

In the top pic, top row, fifth lure from the left is an Offshore Angler Lazer Eye popper. Factory hooks, 7 inches, internal rattle, about 80 g. I made six casts and averaged 40 yards. 

In the top pic, top row last lure on the left is a Yo Zuri Hydro Tiger F popper, 5 inches, shade over 2 ounces, 2/0 X3 trebles. I made six casts and averaged 30 yards. 

In the top pic third row up from bottom is the Williamson JP7, factory hooks replaced with Owner SS 9/0 hooks, 7 inches, 4 ounces. I made six casts and averaged 30 yards. 

In the top pic, second row from the bottom, left hand lure is a Creek Chub Pin Popper #6, 6 1/2 inches, 2 1/2 ounces, factory hooks. I made six casts and averaged 40 yards. 

In the top pic, second row from bottom right hand lure is the Williamson JP5, 5 1/4 inches, 2 ounces, replaced factory hooks with those from a JP7. I made six casts and averaged 50 yards. Out of all the lures I test cast I think this one was the best all round cast and performance wise. I would say a must for the tackle box. 

In the top pic, bottom row is an old Yo Zuri stick popper, 8 inches, 4 1/2 ounces, factory hooks. I made six casts and averaged 40 yards. It has a walk the dog retrieve but the cup face stays above water most of the time. 

In the top pic, top row, second lure from the left is a Rapala X Rap Subwalk 15, 2 ounces, 2/0 X3 trebles. I made six casts and averaged about 30 yards. 

I had a couple lures that were mentioned in posts so I decided to try them as well. I cast the Frenzy six times each, averaged 40 yards on the Terez and 50 yards on the Black Hole. I cast the 105g Sashimi Bull six times each and averaged 50 yards on the Terez and 60 yards on the Black Hole.

I did these tests under ideal conditions, almost no wind and flat water and standing on a dock. Each rod has a sweet spot as far as casting lure weight and it will cast those lures better especially if they are aerodynamic as well. Casting from a boat we will have to include wind, waves, roll and pitch of the boat into the calculation.


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

I talked to Chris about some weight and hook issues and as a result of that I ordered some X4 trebles and open eye hooks of various sizes, and picked up some golf weight tape at Bass Pro. Once I have the hooks in hand I'll go back to fiddling with the lures to try and find optimum hook size and casting weight.

As it stands right now, the lures that have the best casting distance and the action that should attract strikes are a couple of Kamodo's, Braid GT Minnow Small (*Large), Offshore Angler Lazer Eye popper, Williamson JP5 popper, Frenzy popper, Creek Chub poppers #6 and #9, Rapala X Rap Subwalk 15, Maguroni Tuna Candy, Shimano Orca and Sashimi Bull. 

Keeping economy in mind, the lures tested are all under $40.00. I still have the Braid GT Minnow Large on the list because I haven't given up on it yet, that thing casts 60 yards. The Rapala X Rap Subwalk 15 I kept on the list as well even though it doesn't have a great distance cast because it has awesome action with just a moderate retrieve (along with the fact that everything out there tried to crush it, straightened out the hooks but didn't break it). I hope that with tweaking the cast distance and action issues can be resolved. Same thing with the Yo-Zuri Hydro Tiger and Hydro Popper.

Captain Woody was spot on about the Williamson JP5 and the Frenzy lures. The Frenzy gives the absolute best bang for the buck at $14.00 and it will go the distance on a cast. The Williamson JP5 at around $22.00 is probably the easiest popper to use and get great action with a straight retrieve but if you slash and pop it, it's a different animal all together. These would be the first two lures that I would call must have in the bag for Tuna popping.


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

*Tuna Bag casting lures*

This is the list of lures that I consider must have in the tuna lure bag. The lures are on the list because I found they cast the distance needed to throw at tuna and they have caught fish. A few lures here will be exceptions to the casting distance criteria but are included because they catch fish. Each of these lures comes out of the box ready to throw at tuna with the exception of the Rapala Subwalk 15 which needed a hook upgrade. The order of the lures is just how they fell getting added to the list and not intended as a ranking. 

Braid GT Minnow Large

Braid GT Minnow Small

Frenzy Popper

Williamson JP5 Popper, Mahi color

Rapala X Rap Subwalk 15, Pink and Chartruse

Shimano Orca 190JE, Blue Sardine

Creek Chub Komodo Popper 7 inch, Blue Sardine 

Offshore Angler Lazer Eye Popper 6 1/2 inch

Maguroni Tuna Candy 80g, Blue Sardine (These lures are coming back on the market and we should see them around April as noted on the OTI website)


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## Kim (Aug 5, 2008)

*Boy was I wrong!*

"In the top pic, the first lure on top on the left is a Braid GT Minnow Large, 7.9", 105 g, factory hooks and connected with the terminal split ring. I made 12 casts with this lure, I used varying amounts of force on the casts, average cast was 30 - 40 yards and about 50 yards or so when I really whaled it. This lure is pretty much useless because it is so buoyant that floats head out of the water over 2 inches and it spyhops all the way in. I know a bigger front hook won't do the trick, I tried a 6/0 X3 treble and it still spyhopped. I'm hoping that I can return these and get the smaller version."

"In the top pic, the third lure on top from the left is a Braid GT Minnow Small, 5.5 inches, about 75 g, factory hooks and connected with split ring. I made 1 cast with this lure because I suspected that it might spyhop since it's big brother did and I wasn't wrong. I replaced the front hook with an 6/0 X3 treble and made 12 casts with varying force and averaged 40 - 50 yards, I got a little more when I really whaled it. Once I replaced the front hook with a much larger one the lure ran with great action and I think it will be a fish killer next time out."

The above two statements are absolutely wrong! There was no problem with the lure design or with the size and weight of the hooks, the problem was operator error! Neither of these lures responded well to fast or moderate retrieves, neither could be made to walk the dog very well so I decided that they weren't very good lures.

I got Tim at Half Hitch to check it out for me and he tank tested it and told me that it floats just right. I talked to one of my buddies who only fishes in the bay and he said lets check it out. In short order he had that lure working like a champ and looking like a wounded bait fish on the surface. It turns out that the lure design is that of a wounded bait fish struggling on the surface and all it takes is a sweep of the rod with a twitch at the tip every now and then with a slow retrieve. That lure comes in looking like a dying Pogie on the surface. Add these two lures to the good guy box of tackle!


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## capthoop (Oct 28, 2007)

I have been given some Russelure tuna poppers to test out. I love the weight and shape. With The small one I can out cast the Frenzy poppers. I have tried them and like them but have not had any busting tuna around to try yet so although I am excited about this new product I can not give any actual reports as I did on the deep divers. They are a long range casting popper and have good splashing action. When stopped the back slowly sinks but they do float.


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## bigtallluke (Jul 14, 2012)

Digging up an old post because my question seems to be fitting on this particular thread. In the initial post of this thread, there was mention of using 100 lb power pro solid braid.... And it was reported to not work well. Then it was replaced with 80 lb PP hollow core braid. MY question is regarding what braid to put on my popping rod combo. I am going to use the Fin nor lethal100 matched with the Shimano Terez popping rod (7' 8" extra heavy) although I haven't bought the rod yet. I want to keep things inexpensive due to the fact that I'll realistically only get to use this combo a handful of times per season as its intended specifically for popping tuna. I was originally going to put 80 lb PP straight braid on the reel, but am now leaning on using hollow core. Whether it be Jerry Brown hollow core, or power pro, I'm thinking this will be way better than using straight braid. Obviously Jerry brown is the golden option, but is it worth the price difference for this particular application (a budget setup for popping tuna to be used a hand full of times per year). Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

I use 50-65lb braid on my popping rods. I've played with different lines and of different sizes and will not use above 65lb anymore. I prefer solid braid especially something uncoated for max distance. The reason I will not go above 65lb is simple;

-it boosts capacity allowing me to use smaller reels
-80lb and above casts like pure garbage, especially with the smaller poppers.
-I will not be using the required pressure to break 50lb braid (usually around 65lbs or so) so going with a heavier line provides no advantage. 

I've taken many 100+lb tunas using 50lb so 65lb is a good compromise for those who feel they need heavier.


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## bigtallluke (Jul 14, 2012)

Chris V said:


> I use 50-65lb braid on my popping rods. I've played with different lines and of different sizes and will not use above 65lb anymore. I prefer solid braid especially something uncoated for max distance.


Is there much of a difference between hollow core vs solid braid for this application? Would hollow core have a noticeable advantage when casting (compared to solid) or is it so marginal that its not worth noting? I just don't have any experience with hollow core braid on a spinning outfit, so I'm curious. Some people are dead set on hollow core, while others don't care as much. The lack of cast-ability for 80lb and higher makes total sense, and I'm glad I asked. If I can get away with 65 lb straight braid compared to 80 lb hollow core, then its a win win. I just am curious about hollow core


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## bigtallluke (Jul 14, 2012)

Chris V said:


> I use 50-65lb braid on my popping rods. I've played with different lines and of different sizes and will not use above 65lb anymore. I prefer solid braid especially something uncoated for max distance.


Is there much of a difference between hollow core vs solid braid for this application? Would hollow core have a noticeable advantage when casting (compared to solid) or is it so marginal that its not worth noting? I just don't have any experience with hollow core braid on a spinning outfit, so I'm curious. Some people are dead set on hollow core, while others don't care as much. The lack of cast-ability for 80lb and higher makes total sense, and I'm glad I asked. If I can get away with 65 lb straight braid compared to 80 lb hollow core, then its a win win. I just am curious about hollow core


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

Hollow core flattens out a bit and I've noticed it makes a slight difference on my cast. It certainly seems to grab wind more than solid. Some guys like it for splicing a loop for quick loop-to-loop connections but you can tie a double in the solid and still get 100% connections. For popping tuna, I generally tie the braid straight to my popper, but if I'm working subsurface lures I'll use a short wind-on leader. I usually make mine around 6-7ft long for this application. You'll see write-ups about braided and "twisty" leaders and I'm sure they work well, but I've always held the opinion that one, thicker, solid strand is better for abrasion than multiple, smaller strands.


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## Cap'n Davey (Mar 26, 2014)

Kim said:


> This is the list of lures that I consider must have in the tuna lure bag. The lures are on the list because I found they cast the distance needed to throw at tuna and they have caught fish. A few lures here will be exceptions to the casting distance criteria but are included because they catch fish. Each of these lures comes out of the box ready to throw at tuna with the exception of the Rapala Subwalk 15 which needed a hook upgrade. The order of the lures is just how they fell getting added to the list and not intended as a ranking.
> 
> Braid GT Minnow Large
> 
> ...



What? No Bucktails?


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## PELAGIC PIRATE (Oct 10, 2007)

*Surface sliders vrs poppers*

I think some people are confusing surface sliding lures with poppers

I find I get more strikes not popping at all , and prefer minnow type sliders 

Cast them out far : rod tip up and reel as fast as you can skipping the lure or sliding it like a flyer attempting to take off : 

I've used the bps lures back in the day 

They work but you have to change the hooks and rings out : better just to buy lures that are rigged right from the start .


Good luck out there boys :thumbsup:


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

The poppers work just as well but the best way is to pop them hard a few times and let them sit. I like the fast skip with the sliders but the hookup rate sucks if you go too fast.


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