# Hobie Turbo fins



## krhyde1066 (Jan 12, 2011)

Hi Guys,
I am looking to replace the fins on with Hobie Outback, with turbo fins. I have a 2006 model.

Is there a certain kind of turbo fin that I have to buy? Or are the Turbo fins good for all year models?

Thanks for your help

Yours Sincerely

Karl Hyde :thumbsup:


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## Ardiemus (Oct 12, 2010)

Should be the same regardless of the year. Just make sure if you have ST fins to get ST vs regular Turbos.


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## Chumbucket (Apr 23, 2009)

A 2006 should have the V1 drive and I think I remember reading V1 drives can't handle turbo fins and you would have to upgrade several parts to the V2 level. I may be wrong though.


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## krhyde1066 (Jan 12, 2011)

Two questions then guys..
1. How do I know if I have ST fins?

2. How do I know if the v1 drive can be used or not? and what parts may I have to change?

Thanks again, Karl


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## FLSalomon (Oct 3, 2007)

There are 3 types of Mirage fins - standard, ST and ST Turbo. The standard fin comes with the kayak as standard. The ST fin is the same length as the standard fin but is similar in appearance / construction to the ST Turbo. According to Hobie, you get 10% more speed with the same effort as the standard fin. The ST Turbo fin is longer and requires more effort but gives even more speed. 

I have a 2007 Revo (cam locks for the drive) and have the ST fins. Works great. Sailing rudder is a good upgrade as well. 

See page 7 of the linked document - 2013 Hobie catalog
http://cdn.hobiecat.com/digital_ass...ishing-pa-catalog-international_rev130424.pdf


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## markbxr400 (Jul 23, 2013)

I swapped my neighbors V1 to ST Turbos, V1's use a set screw to hold the masts in instead of threads. Dealer sold me the threaded masts and said the set screws would work with these masts. They did for about 30 minutes, long enough to get her 2 miles out, then they fell out and she had to paddle back. I went ahead and replaced the sprocket assemblies which then give the threaded inserts. Should have done this up front. You need the ST turbo fins, the longer masts, and the sprockets. Total cost about $130 if I remember correctly. The speed and distance advantage make them well worth it.


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## JD7.62 (Feb 13, 2008)

You can buy v1 turbo fin masts and fins, however with upgrading your drive I would advise against it. The cables on the V1 drives around the v1 drum cause a "pinch" in the cable. The extra force caused by the turbo fins WILL cause the cable to break. Each v1 chain assembly is $55 if I remember correctly.

Best thing to do is upgrade the entire assembly which including the cost of the turbo fin kit is about $300. Or you can just upgrade the drums and cables which will run you about $200.

I use to have a V1 drive with turbo fins and let me yell you they will let you down over and over again at the worst possible times!


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## krhyde1066 (Jan 12, 2011)

Thanks guys for all the advice, who would have thought that changing the fins on a kayak would be so confusing!!

I guess I will take JD's advice and upgrade the entire assembly. There again, if I am spending $300, why not just add the extra money and get a new mirage drive? That is tempting as well. I take it that the well, in which the mirage drive is inserted, has not changed?! Would a new 2013 mirage drive, fit in a 2006 model?

Thanks once again guys for all your advice.. I don't know if it helped me or just confused me even further..lol


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## JD7.62 (Feb 13, 2008)

Yes it will. You will have to take out the little plasctic bar they started putting in in 2012.

The bar is removable unless the drive is made out of their new spine. In that case youll have to get a hack saw to it which really isnt a big deal.

Youll save over $250 to do it yourself. That money can go to good use some where else, plus rebuilding your drive is a great learning experience as you will have to rebuild/repair/replace at some point any how.

Even the V2s are not indestructible, but the V1s were just horrible with turbo fins.


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## markbxr400 (Jul 23, 2013)

With the turbos, may also want to consider beefing up the hull near the drive well as some have had hull cracking near the well area. The Hobie website has information on how to do this, looks pretty simple to do.


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## krhyde1066 (Jan 12, 2011)

Hey JD,
Just after buying the kayak, I replaced the rudder lines as they were a little frayed in places, and really needed replacing. This repair was fairly easy as I found the Hobie pdf document explaining how to do this.

I would like to attempt the upgrades to my V1 drive myself. Is there any pdf document that you know of that I can print, to help me do this? I have searched a little, but it's a little hard as I don't know exactly what I am looking for..

Also the document that explains how to beef up the hull near to the drive, that Mark talked about..

Thanks a lot...Karl


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## JD7.62 (Feb 13, 2008)

Im not sure about the PDF but its pretty easy. I just winged it. The first time it took me a little over an hour but now Im sure I could rebuild a new in about 30 minutes.

Take some pics of the drive and start taking it apart.

First thing youll do is take off all of your cables.

Then unscrew the set screw holding the bar that runs through the spine.

Remove the bar with a punch if needed. When you remove the bar the sprockets will be free.

With the chain assemblies removed the drums will just slide out. Undo the nut that holds the pedals in to remove the pedal arms from the drums. 

Assemble in reverse. The hard part is getting the chain assemblies right. Use the pics you took before you took everything apart so you know which chain goes above or below the other.


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## markbxr400 (Jul 23, 2013)

JD7.62 said:


> Assemble in reverse. The hard part is getting the chain assemblies right. Use the pics you took before you took everything apart so you know which chain goes above or below the other.


Also, The new plastic sprockets will have its center tooth different from the others such that the chain will snap and lock over it. The chains have 7 links - put the middle of the chain (4th link) over this center tooth.


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