# Paint for pontoon boat hulls??



## fighterpilot (Oct 3, 2007)

Brackish water on Blackwater. My son-in-law painted the pontoons and got very bad electrolysis. After searching and reading the fourm he may have used a copper based paint without primer which set him up for problems. 

Can anyone suggest a paint for such use, maybe not requireing a primer?
Thanks


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

They are coming out with anti fouling paints that contain no cuprous oxide. Loaded up with biocides. Not sure how good they are or how long they last.

Best to remove all paint, inspect hull and repair if pitting/metal loss warrants. Prime with underwater etching primer and repaint with AF paint.

If you don't need AF paint. You can use Interlux VC Performance instead.


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## fighterpilot (Oct 3, 2007)

*Paint*

Assume AF is anti fouling paint. If it contains copper than need the primer, but would West Marine have the newer paint with out copper? Need some AF capability since the pontoons load up with growth in a few months.


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

Short answer is No. West will not have it. I don't think the new paints are available anymore. At least not in the US. The EPA is driving the US market to get away from copper based paints. The industry response was to add biocides to the paint and reduce the copper content. Now the EPA is frowning on the biocides because they are more harmful thatn the copper. 

Here is a link to some research in this area.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2012/12/121206094543.htm

Recommend, strip it down, prime it and then slap some AF paint on it.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> After searching and reading the fourm he may have used a copper based paint without primer which set him up for problems.


It's the same thing with painting a outboard or a engine bracket.

What you want is this.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...e=Interlux+Trilux+33+Antifouling+Bottom+Paint



> Trilux 33 is Interlux's new tin-free antifouling paint, ideal for aluminum boats, outdrives, and outboards.


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## fighterpilot (Oct 3, 2007)

Patriot--if i use AF paint won't that set up the electrolysis again? The trilux 33 doesn't seem to be too strong on keepting the hard shell growth off the boat. Am I reading that right?


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## Big Mikes Fiberglass (Sep 23, 2008)

I use VIVID antifoul by Pettit on my Marinett.

Big Mike
850-206-4499


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## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

You also need to get good magnesium anodes for protection on Aluminum never use Zincs as they are higher on the metal list and will not deteriorate on Aluminum before the aluminum does.


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## fighterpilot (Oct 3, 2007)

Big Mike, Vivid has copper in it--but that doesn't cause you any electrolysis?? What anodes do you use? FP


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## Big Mikes Fiberglass (Sep 23, 2008)

*Bottom Paint*



fighterpilot said:


> Big Mike, Vivid has copper in it--but that doesn't cause you any electrolysis?? What anodes do you use? FP


 
I have been using VIVID Bottom Paint for years. My boat is all aluminum and this paint seems to hold up very well. I have never had an issue with electrolysis. Yes, I do use magnesium anodes. 

Thanks,
Big Mike
www.bigmikesfiberglass.com
850-206-4499


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

My experience the Trilux 33 is not a potent an antifoulant. It is also not a durable. You will be repainting sooner. 

Primocon also works well as an underwater primer also. 

Electrolysis is usually amp driven. Bad shore power at dock, another boat with power problem, internal electrical problem in your boat, etc, etc

Galvanic corrision is dissimilar metal contact with one of the two metals becoming the annode and breaking down. This is the "salt water battery effect" The aluminum hull will breakdown before the cuprous oxide in the paint. This is why you need to barrier protect. The lesser amount of salt water, the lesser amount of battery effect.


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## TinCan (Jul 22, 2012)

I have a Water Shotgun sand blaster (Water Driven) and blasted many Pontoon Boats, (water driven no dust, little residue) after doing several I could tell different paint (Cheap short cut's save a buck on expensive pontoon )the unit would be loaded with Syht and when I had shyt taken off, Scrape by hand first , I could see bad pitting on some, some so weak under neath, I said Nope , I am Done, I would cut through, then if asked to repaint after doing one,i would say contact this guy

I had a Buddie who would go through the (Three Step Then) of painting ,primer and then another coat of some thing then finally black coat but had a time table when to do each step, as I recall used INTERLUX , Was Not Cheap 

Patriot will know but I was told there is some paint that they will not sell to every one that walk's in door asking for it. One must have license or permit to use paint. BS ?? EPA ?? Bottom Line (Investment) requires upkeep,if possible and place to do it (Residue) i would pull pontoon once a year and hand clean lot of BS off .

I retired and retired equipment still in shed,get it out now and then very portable unit, Fit's back of truck with sand easy (Silica sand) as you can select different grade (Size) Figure time on 20 /22 ft approx 1 1/2 hour per side at $50.00 and hour plus sand ($7.00 ) per bag , bag last 45 -1 hour ,to much $$$ HD/Lowes sells sand paper have fun


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## flounderslayerman (Jun 3, 2011)

Interlux 2000E is a great primer base coat to paint the aluminum with before the bottom paint.


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## standrew (Dec 15, 2009)

Zinc chromate first. Then a few coats of a 2 part epoxy. Leave the last coat of epoxy a little tacky and start with the black barrier coat. This way works for about 3 years.


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