# Mako 171 winter project



## Duke S

bought a 1988 Mako 171, needs some repair.

got the console off, about to pull and re-bed the gas tank.
Any advice there?

Looking for parts- 
bow and console access covers (teak louvered)
one (or two) 4" aluminum bow fairlead
windshield, grab rail around windshield on console.
plastic logos for stern quarters
gauges: fuel, tach

no bow rail, think I'll leave it off, any good reason to put one on?


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## FLbeachbum

Check out http://www.classicmako.com/

Lots of good info there. I have a 1970 17' Mako. Great little boats.

Make sure to take lots of photos and keep us informed of the progress.


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## Duke S

Great site, thanks!
Pictures shortly.


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## dustyflair

HEy can I come watch/help? I want to do an older Mako in the future and just like seeing re-working going on. I live near Cordova Park and will travel a reasonable distance...


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## Duke S

Dusty, an extra pair of hands would help when it comes to the tank lift. I am just picking at it now when I have a few minutes, so I'm not sure when but maybe this weekend. I am in Gulf Breeze/Santa Rosa Shores. You could stop by anytime to see and talk about it. send me your contact info offline.


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## X-Shark

> about to pull and re-bed the gas tank.
> Any advice there?


It will be time for a new one. The tank MUST come out for a close inspection. Looking at the top of the tank is worthless.

The tank is at the bottom of the foundation so to speak. Everything gets built on top of them.

If you paint and rewire and not redo the tank, it can come back and bite you in the ass next year and mess up a lot of what you already did.

New tanks should be well cleaning with wax & grease remover. Then sanded with 80gt on a DA sander. Then cleaned again. Then 2 coats of Coal Tar epoxy to make the new last a LOT longer than the original. Document all this and it will be worth money when it comes time to resell.

I'm one of the original members and moderator's on Classic Mako.

They look like this when done.


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## Duke S

Thanks X-Shark. 

I was thinking about trying to pressure test the old tank, is there a way to properly inspect it to see if it is worth coating with coal tar-epoxy? or should I not even bother? Can you recommend a tank manufacturer local? fuel gauge sender?

Looks like the console base hasn't been sealed in a while, and has two gel coat fractures on the bow end where someone pried it up in the past. sand and mud underneath, and a greasy substance on top of the tank (?), it isn't mud.

sorry, I got lots of questions!


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## Ocean Master

Post pictures of what you are doing. Please do not put the tank back in unless it is cleaned and tested. You can't see the exterior condition of the tank unless this is done. If I remember right there is no access panel for this tank. The price for new tanks are about $10.00 per gallon. For the sending unit measure the distance from the top of tank to the bottom. Write that down and take the old one and the mesurement to whoever you buy one from.


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## Duke S

Here's the overall side view. needs a little epoxy work on the bow, looks like it had been beached on gravel a few times. I was told it was mostly used in the Chotawhatchee river, FW = good, but they had put a swivel chair mount on the deck without sealing the bottom of the tube. Had to dig out some wet foam, but got down to dry, going to refill foam and glass over the hole in the deck. Who the @*%$'s great idea was it to fill the below deck with foam on boats <20ft? I had a 1976 Mako 20 before, and honestly was not expecting the foam, but OK, I got it now. view of the console shows the butcher job on the panel. I'm thinking to place a flat switch panel over the vertical cutout, and make a teak trimmed storage box where the abused panel and radio are now. holes where the windscreen and grab bar were attached are on the console. Teak should bleach and clean up OK. Complete rewiring needed, half of this goes nowhere.

Pictures of the swivel chair hole and tank surface coming next... removed 10 gallons of fuel, a little water in it.


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## X-Shark

On the Sending unit I use these.

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-211-2-wire-fuel-level-sender.aspx

Pay attention to the drop down box as to the length you need.

No moving parts and no needle bounce on the gauge with these.


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## Duke S

Here's where I've been stuck for about two weeks. Too many other distractions, but at least it is drying out a bit. 

Hole through the deck- should I cut the foam smooth or will the poured material fill the nooks and crannies? Is 2 lb per cubic ft ok? 4? Looks like the deck was painted green before. My 76 mako 20 had tan decks, what is the "stock" color deck for a 1988, 171? White decks are hard on the eyes, what is the best deck color?

River sand under the console, and mud. The greasy stuff was mud after all, now drying into thin flakes. Fill hose and vent hose had been replaced, that must account for the chipped gelcoat where they pried up the console. PVC 1" pipe visible carries the bow light wire.

Hope to get the console off the boat this weekend and start digging out the foam around the tank, but got a soccer game in Crestview that takes out the middle of the day and most of the afternoon...


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## Ocean Master

That looks like an original tank installation. Definately dig out all the foam and remove the tank.


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## KPTN

yes the foam will expand to fill the area where poured and it will bond very well to the existing foam and pretty much anything it touches. Be careful not to over fill as it will bow or bust panels. use 4 lb foam around the tank or any other where you need more rigidness or strength like in hollow stringers. Use 2lb to fill voids and space.

good luck with your project.


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## Duke S

Thought I might get the console off the boat today, all set except for the steering cable. No visible way to undo the cable from the wheel from below, except for a tiny set screw. Is that it? Are the screw heads on top so I have to take the wheel off and drop this unit?

Tried to register at the Classic Mako's Owners site, something isn't working there, did find a good discussion on tank replacement.


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## fish4life

*sterring helm*









Take Something and push it in the hole where the arrow is pointing and as you do that pull on the cable and It should release, then turn the steering wheel and it will back the cable out of the helm


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## Duke S

There's a slot-head set screw in that hole. I'll give a try when the sun comes up. Thanks!


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## X-Shark

> Tried to register at the Classic Mako's Owners site, something isn't working there, did find a good discussion on tank replacement.


They no longer automatically let you in. There was to much Spam going on. Give it a few days and they will approve you. Eddie's in the woods hunting deer right now.

Yes there are tons of tank replacements there.

If you need a new tank? Contact me. I have a guy.


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## Duke S

I hope Eddie has better luck than I did last weekend with the full moon...

Console tilted up secured to the bow cleat resting on a 2x4, maybe I can avoid taking it off the boat. 

Apparently the only thing replaced before was the fuel line to the engine (says 2004 on the hose), both the fill and vent hoses are rotted, you'd think to go to all the trouble to remove the console they would have been replaced. 

Good news is the foam below 2-3 inches is dry. Bad news is the tank is corroded (white aluminum hydroxide) all around the top under the wet foam. Whatever green film material (stuck to the foam in the pic) they applied to the tank before install didn't help much. X-Shark, I'll be calling you about the new tank (!), probably after Christmas. 

There is 2" clearance around the front and sides of the tank, 5" at the stern. Any reason I shouldn't get a bigger tank and make it 2" all the way round?

Should I glass over the holes in the top of the coffin sides that connect to the foam-filled bilge when I glass in the top edge of the tank?

Last picture is where I stopped, deciding it was time for a golden carbonated beverage, 6-8" of foam removed all the way around and dug out of the holes.


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## Duke S

I never thought of silicone as permanent before, but... any advice on removing silicone sealant? I've seen mention of acetone, does that really help?


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## X-Shark

Acetone will help as well as Laq. thinner to remove silicone sealer.



> you'd think to go to all the trouble to remove the console they would have been replaced.


Never under estimate the fate of cheap people. Half ass work is performed every day.

Yes glass over the holes in the coffin....Yes build a bigger tank that fills the space. Consider 1in all around.

I have enough 4lb density foam here to finish your project.


455-0415


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## Duke S

Thanks X-Shark, great help! I probably won't do much more than pick at it till after the holiday. Merry Christmas everyone!


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## Patriot

I live in Santa Rosa Shores on Laguna. More than happy to stop by and give you some advice.


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## Duke S

took the day off work to pressure test the tank (!), dime sized hole port, more "pin" holes trying to join up starboard. Good thing I don't smoke regularly. Got all the foam out down to the bottom, all the water and damage was within 2-3" of the top. view through the aft foam fill hole shows the same, muddy water in about an inch of the foam right below the deck, the rest is dry. Deck seems solid. I really don't want to pull up the deck just for an inch of wet foam, or cut out the coffin to check stringers, is that a mistake?

Patriot, I'm over on the other side of SRS, Shady LN cul de sac, stop by, I'd trade a golden beverage for opinions.


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## Patriot

That tank looks nasty!!! Lets get it cleaned up and see how much welding is needed vice making new one. 

The foam under the deck usually provides some structural support to compensate for a thinner core on the deck. I need to see it to determine if that will be an issue or not. PM me with your phone or call me. I can stop by tomorrow up until Friday.


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## Duke S

*silicone removal*

can't stop picking at it, but Christmas cookies with the kids are calling. So far this is easier than gel coat blisters, but I expect that to change...


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## Duke S

*tank out*

I was going to wait till next week, but the kids were sleeping and ...

I was thinking the tenacity of the foam on the bottom of the tank would be substantial, and saw other tank removals that used booms, floor jacks, spanish windlasses, etc., but looking at the 5" space behind the tank I thought maybe a crowbar would fit there on a wood pad. Gentle pressure and patience, waiting for the foam crackle to stop and inserting wood wedges under before applying more pressure, and heck the thing popped out. Didn't faze the stingers or keel a bit. Stain on the foam is from the spilled fuel out of the corroded holes when I lifted it out. A couple of oxidized patches on the bottom of the tank, but mostly shiny clean.

(sorry Dusty, I was going to call you, but didn't expect it to be this easy and quick! Stop by if you want to see it.)


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## Duke S

Got the coffin cleaned out. Small gelcoat blisters around the top, a few mold voids. Going to glass over the holes, rough sand and epoxy coat the entire inside it before putting a new tank in. Got the ro sander out to find the pad rotted and belt broken, waiting now for parts and discs...

I am worried that some water will find its way down the gas fill and vent service access (top left in the photo), and that comes in little lower than the tank top. Even though the tank will be sealed in foam, glass and epoxy, I don't want pooled water sitting anywhere looking for trouble, so I am thinking about glassing in an open topped drain channel (1/2 of a pvc pipe) around the starboard side of the tank to the aft drain tube. A little ventilation between the console and the tank top might also be a good thing. 

Waiting for the weather to dry out, prepping a template for console work, cleaned up the teak and rod holders- 220 grit on a palm sander to get the deep marks, followed by forward-aft passes by hand with 400, 600, and 1000 grit, then auto rubbing compound. Setting up my buffing wheel would have made this easier, but I don't need a mirror finish. The resilience of aluminum is gratifying.

Going to be down state weekend after this coming one, wondering if a side trip to Marine Connection Liquidators would be worthwhile.


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## Duke S

*need a sander*

*&^$*%, just caught the extension cord on my foot and dropped by Ryobi S500A 1/6th sheet sander and broke the shoe. They don't make them anymore, no parts available, none on e-bay. Perhaps the most useful sander I've owned. Anyone got one or hears of one, let me know I'm looking for one.


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## X-Shark

Those rod holders are hard to keep looking right.

I lightly blasted mine and primed with Awlgrip 545 then Top coated in Black Awlgrip.


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## Duke S

always was a sucker for brightwork. Yeah I know, maintenance... but some things are worth it. So when you see a raggedy old Mako running around with nice varnish work, that'd be me. This is the teak backrest for the console seat, took a lot of sanding to get out the deep weathered grooves, would have been faster to plane it (!). Saturated with oil, dry for a week, sanded again and now the first varnish coat, had an old can of high % linseed phenolic resin Dolphinite, just enough left for this. Step pads will get oil only- they are supposed to be non-slip, so they will probably weather gray. Gas tank is being built!


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## X-Shark

I can't tell from your pix's...... Does this boat have short rubber hoses on the Fill & vent and then use alum pipe to the deck fittings and then use short rubber hose again?

I hear Spooled is building you a new tank.....Good Move.


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## Duke S

Hose from the tank to deck fittings, no aluminum tube between. How can I be certain replacement hoses will be EtOH resistant? Are all of them now? Looking for an aluminum deck-fill fitting, the black plastic (nylon?) one is heavy oxidized. Thanks for the ref on the tank, glad to support a local craftsman.


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## Duke S

anyone local make up teak louvered inserts? I don't have the jigs.
starbright/acrylic louvered inserts?
non-local?

only commercial standard ones I've seen max out at 17". 
I need 2 @ 22"w x 12"h.

saw someone "CJ..." on the classic mako website awhile ago who made some, but still can't get registered there for some reason, 
couldn't possibly be anything I've done or not done :whistling:


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## Duke S

*New Tank!*

Picked up my new tank this morning and it has been raining since (!). Added 4" to the length so I've got 41 gallons. Hardin solid state fuel level sender (thanks X-Shark). The crew at Blue Coral did a great job on the build, nice clean even welds, primed, sender installed. Thanks guys. Dry fit (yeah it is raining) is perfect. Next comes the coal tar epoxy coat on the tank, foam under and fiberglas the holes in the coffin liner, and permanent installation.


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## Duke S

*tank coated*

Coal tar epoxy coat on the tank after 60 grit sanding. I think one may be enough? Had a couple of old west system foam rollers, seemed ok, resilient to the touch, but man did it shed. Shouldn't have trusted it, but could also have been the thick-stickiness of the epoxy? Smelly, thick stuff. It won't affect the coating, just lots of little bumps for the foam to stick to... glad I didn't try the roller on the boat where it would show.


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## sirmashalot

i got a bow rail off my 20 mako if your interested let me know i took it off because i throw the cast net a lot.


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## Duke S

Thanks. I'm leaning toward not put one on for the same reason, and fly casting. It adds appearance more than safety anyway.



sirmashalot said:


> i got a bow rail off my 20 mako if your interested let me know i took it off because i throw the cast net a lot.


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## Ocean Master

Did you buy the Coal Tar Epoxy locally?


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## Duke S

Ocean Master said:


> Did you buy the Coal Tar Epoxy locally?


from X-Shark. He had just enough left over for me to get one good coat on. 
Not sure where he got it originally. 

Grainger's carries Rustoleum brand 
West Marine caries Mar Pro Brand
several internet sites carry it, but it is heavy so shipping is a factor.


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## Spooled

Coal tar epoxy usually comes in a five gallon bucket with one gallon of catalyst. Have never seen it in smaller quantities myself.


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## BuckWild

Spooled said:


> Coal tar epoxy usually comes in a five gallon bucket with one gallon of catalyst. Have never seen it in smaller quantities myself.


 I bought PPG Coal Coat in 2 gal cans last year. Color Center in Destin had it. Said he keeps a couple cans in stock for boat tanks.


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## Duke S

*Rod Holders and Foam*

What should I do about the foam under the rod holders? Seal it with epoxy? bore a hole so water will drain to the bilge pump, wouldn't that would expose more foam to water? Not worry about it? 

too cold this weekend to start foaming under the tank coffin walls, I think I'll finish taking the console apart, take it off the boat and prep for repair.


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## Duke S

Been waiting for warmer and drier weather when I can get away from work, seems to have been an elusive combination...

Tested the 2-part foam on the hole in the front deck. Glad I only used half of what a started with (!) that stuff is amazing! Now I am starting to look around for other things to use it on/in :shifty:

I was going to start some fiberglas work this afternoon, but with the dampness... should I be worried about cool + damp for epoxy work?


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## Duke S

*Progress!*

Sometimes I wonder whose great idea this was, but today I took off work for the afternoon and got a lot done. Coffin holes glassed in last friday. Truck camper shell foam strips under the tank, SS screws bedded in silicone with rubber pads between the tank flanges and coffin, Console repair work while waiting for tank work to cure. FOAM! and cut down level with the tank top. 

Best advice I got was from X-Shark (surprise): Plastic sheeting taped down anywhere you do not want foam, and drinking cups, the ones with the ridges molded in, for measuring equal quantities of the 2-part foam. Should have put plastic over my mustache...

next up: sealing the foam with fiberglas/epoxy so water cannot get to the tank, finish console work and paint it.


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## X-Shark

Look's Good . 

I got one coming out of B'Ham to do at the 1st of the month.


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## Duke S

X-Shark said:


> Look's Good .
> 
> I got one coming out of B'Ham to do at the 1st of the month.



thanks for the foam, it was just enough. 

I'd offer you an extra pair of hands if I wasn't tied up with this one. The kids are expecting it to be in the water by the time school is out (!)


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## X-Shark

If you need some glass tape to cover the foam....Come see me...I have it in different widths.


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## Duke S

X-Shark said:


> If you need some glass tape to cover the foam....Come see me...I have it in different widths.


I think I'm good for tape, but I may come bug you when I get to wiring.

thanks!


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## Duke S

*more tank install*

Dry fit 2 layers of fiberglass tape, actually one cut strip left over from an aborted keel repair of a canoe, overlaid by 4" tape, both overlapping the tank and coffin wall. Second picture is epoxy wet out and second coat when tacky. Got teak hatch trim cut down for the upper console opening. Next up: build the console storage box and plumb the fuel lines.


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## X-Shark

Don't forget to tape a Green Bonding wire to the fill hose when you shove it to the fill.


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## Duke S

minimum gauge for wires?


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## X-Shark

14ga Dark Green is good for that.


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## Patriot

Dick, PM answered on your awlgrip question. 

Tom


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## Duke S

*paint!*

I've gotten side tracked by other issues, but getting back to the boat. Decided to get set up for spray painting, seeing as how I'm going to have to do the hull next winter. first time painting awl grip primer, or any epoxy paint for that matter. Took all morning to get the miscellaneous parts together, perhaps should have gotten all ready to go as a dry run and waited for a another day, but I'm not sure how many weather days like this I've got before the humidity sets in. Started with the underside of hatches and lids in case I really screwed up... went OK, but glad I have a chance to sand before top coating (!).


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## Ocean Master

Looks good Duke. You will love the finish of the Awlgrip.


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## Duke S

Nice! I hope mine comes out that clean.


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## Duke S

*damn your eyes*

primer round two. I've got my spray technique improved, laying down smooth even coat, but now I've got fish eyes! I had sanded down all the primer 150 then 320 ro, _scrubbed _all with grease and wax remover with the two rag technique, and some spots are like I'm spraying oil! I was really careful while sanding about contact, freaked out when sweat drops landed on the console, but those areas came out fine. This pic is one of the worst spots. I don't think it is in the sprayer or air supply because it is only in a few areas? I know when I made the decision to learn how to do this I probably wouldn't get it right the first time, but how can I correct what I don't understand??? 

What am I doing wrong?

This is why you should pay someone to shoot awlgrip!


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## Patriot

Hey neighbor....PM Sent


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## Duke S

Went back to Awlgrip Tech documents for help. I've cleaned up the prep area, will MEK solvent rinse anything that contacts the paint- measuring cups, paint reservoir, gun, etc., as before. Already have a filter on the air supply. Going to scrub down all the parts with 10% bleach and detergent followed by wax and grease remover once dry. I'll post results later tomorrow.


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## Ocean Master

Duke S said:


> Went back to Awlgrip Tech documents for help. I've cleaned up the prep area, will MEK solvent rinse anything that contacts the paint- measuring cups, paint reservoir, gun, etc., as before. Already have a filter on the air supply. Going to scrub down all the parts with 10% bleach and detergent followed by wax and grease remover once dry. I'll post results later tomorrow.


That technique is definately right on before spraying.


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## Patriot

Do not use MEK. Way too strong.


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## Duke S

SUCCESS! 

well, I think that wolf spider that jumped into it will sand out, but I've got one good coat on everything. Regroup, another two coats this afternoon.

MEK is too strong for cleanup?


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## Duke S

*tide change*

I have officially reversed course. No longer taking things off, have started putting things back on. Fore deck repaired and new anchor storage hatch, new fuel filter system (PCV grommet was perfect!), , step pads and rod holders.


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## Chawk

*Console Rail Mount*

I have a rail mount that I am willing to give you if you want it.... I have a 06 Mako 171 that im having a T-top put on next week, so if you want it its yours.... I live in Navarre-Hope that helps:thumbsup:


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## Duke S

For the console?
Yes that would help!
PM sent with my phone #



Chawk said:


> I have a rail mount that I am willing to give you if you want it.... I have a 06 Mako 171 that im having a T-top put on next week, so if you want it its yours.... I live in Navarre-Hope that helps:thumbsup:


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## Chawk

Yes for the console, I didnt receive the PM, btw. But ill contact you around the end of next week so you can get it


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## Duke S

OK, thanks!


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## Duke S

*top coat!*

Great painting weather, may not get another shot at low humidity and cool temps. Lost my ******* paint booth (popup) to the storm last weekend, it blew it up onto the roof! 

Awlgrip off white, 25% reduction, 60 psi minimum, 1.4 tip in an HVLP cheap gun. 545 Primer was 320 grit RO sanded, corners and spots with 400 grit by hand. Console (look at the reflection on the side ), seat box, and underside of the lids. Also shot the deck edge where the console fits over the coffin, so next year when i do the deck I won't have to worry about the seam edge and can seal it tight now with silicone. A few bugs and minute debris from the trees, but overall not bad. Have to do the top sides of the lids, maybe next weekend.

Beauty+Brains at PBS Boat Store suggested denatured alcohol and paper towels for cleaning, great advice! That place deserves your business.


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## Ocean Master

Looks good Duke.
Remember if you have to wet sand and buff the finish will end up looking like new gel coat instead of the "wet" look of the Awgrip paint. Awlcraft is the paint you can wet sand and buff.


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## Duke S

Thanks.
No sanding and buffing needed, so it will stay shiny and more resistant to dirt and fish blood. Awlcraft would be more forgiving, and your cowling came out great. Anyone looking to do this themselves should consider both. The one spot I'd be tempted to "fix" I had a sag, but I was able to "tip" it with a brush. Not perfect, but you'd have to look for it to find it.



Ocean Master said:


> Looks good Duke.
> Remember if you have to wet sand and buff the finish will end up looking like new gel coat instead of the "wet" look of the Awgrip paint. Awlcraft is the paint you can wet sand and buff.


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## Duke S

*getting closer*

Console ready to go back on. Got an Oatey vent pipe flashing/cover at lowes for ~$3, trimmed the base and it will work perfect for the service cables and wires, silicone and screwed to the console floor. New access plate to fuel shut off. Three switch gang, capacity plate will go over top. Seat box finished, I'll post a picture later when it is screwed down to the deck. Time to start rigging.


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## Duke S

The console returns to the boat. 

New fuel gauge, tach, depth finder that came with it, new compass will go on to the left of the sonar. Hooked the motor control cables back up and something isn't right there, moving the control to the angled surface shouldn't have changed the pull distance?

Wiring... pulled the three wire orange extension cord piece (!) that was used for the bilge pump and replaced with marine grade 14 ga 2 wire. Was going to install a 2 battery system, but decided to keep it simple and lighter with one battery. Got rid of all the "extra" wires, have a plan for the switches, just need to execute, time runs faster than I! 

Looks like we are going to watch fireworks from shore, probably safer that way...


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## aroundthehorn

Wow, that looks incredible!


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## Duke S

Decided to clean up the old fuse block/bars, and wiring in the backs of the switches. three only: Navigation+gauge lights/stern Light only for anchor, Auxillary, and Bilge. About to hook up the battery to see if any of this works :whistling: Lost the bow nav light wire into the hole, it was a few inches too short. Won't repeat my response here . Not sure how to get it back or rewire it at the moment. Control cables loosened up, just got stiff from sitting, so that worked out OK. Need some SS finish washers for the windshield, and it can go on. Punch list is getting shorter!


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## Ocean Master

Duke,

I have a Blue Sea 6 gang fuse block left over and plenty of wiring. Also a bow nav light and other things. A bunch of 12v LED compartment lights, etc...

Plenty of ss finish washers too...


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## Duke S

Ocean Master said:


> Duke,
> 
> I have a Blue Sea 6 gang fuse block left over and plenty of wiring. Also a bow nav light and other things. A bunch of 12v LED compartment lights, etc...
> 
> Plenty of ss finish washers too...


Great! 
I'll try to catch up with you saturday if you will be around. 
Thanks!


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## Ocean Master

Duke,

After zooming in on the old fuse block and wiring I would definitely replace all of it. None of that wire and especially the automotive style connectors should be on a boat. Also none of the wiring is color coded like it should be. Come by Saturday after 11:00 am and I'll help you out.


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## aroundthehorn

Ocean Master said:


> Duke,
> 
> After zooming in on the old fuse block and wiring I would definitely replace all of it. None of that wire and especially the automotive style connectors should be on a boat. Also none of the wiring is color coded like it should be. Come by Saturday after 11:00 am and I'll help you out.


+1 on the opinion about the automotive style fuses.


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## Duke S

Thanks guys, this is why I'm posting. Ocean Master I'll see you Saturday.


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## Duke S

*wiring version 2.1.5*

Blue Sea 6 fused circuit block, some heat shrink terminals, and advice from Ocean Master (thanks!), so here is a revision of the wiring. Still need a few clamps to keep things tidy, but this may be ready for a battery install and test.


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## Ocean Master

Because the wiring is not color coded I have some wiring labels you can use to identify the circuits. Hopefully there will be a 10 awg fused wire from the battery to power the new fuse block. Put the 40 amp fuse with 7" of the connection at the battery or battery switch. I'm sure you already know that.


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## FLbeachbum

Looks great. Funny how a winter project grows.


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## X-Shark

Ocean Master said:


> Because the wiring is not color coded I have some wiring labels you can use to identify the circuits. Hopefully there will be a 10 awg fused wire from the battery to power the new fuse block. Put the 40 amp fuse with 7" of the connection at the battery or battery switch. I'm sure you already know that.



I usually up the size of the main feed wire, but on a skiff like this it will be fine. 
We are cramming and demanding more and more "stuff / Junk" on our boats than was ever originally intended.

I also would rather have a surface mount Circuit Breaker for the main feed.

You can see it in this pix.










Larger Main fuses Maxi size are harder to change at Sea. 










This is the fuse block for them. I've actually taken them off of boats and replaced with the Surface Mount Circuit Breakers.











There is a trend on Brand new boats to use these "Automotive" Circuit Breakers.










Had one on my '98 Scout and they were installed on a 2011 Sea Hunt I worked on.

They are Cheap and they are Junk!.

They rust and cause connection problems. I don't understand how manufactures in the "Marine" industry think that it is OK to use "Automotive" components on their products. In my mind it's due to the "Bean Counters" and they just freaking don't Care!


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## Duke S

X-Shark, I was looking at the surface mount breakers this past week, but couldn't find one that was less than 50 amp locally, so temporarily it will be a cheap 40amp inline so I can test everything. I agree that is the way to go. 

I really like your flounder boat setup, I even got a BEP VSR to set up two batteries, but in the end decided to go against the grain and have minimal electronics and lighter with one battery. I may change my mind later, up the battery lines, and the block from Ocean Master gives me 3 more circuits to expand. it is, as you mention, a small boat, and will mostly be daytime operations, and not out of cell phone range. I've got a portable GPS, portable VHF, looking for a way to hook up an iPod for music, but actually wishing I'd filled in the speaker holes now. 

Support your small local shop owners, craftsmen, and artisans or DIY, the big box operations are run by aforementioned bean counters! 

Speaking of local, Reynolds Hardware 29 and 9 mile is about my favorite place in town. Some prices lower than the big boys, some higher, but I'd rather pay more there because of what they have, I am amazed every time I walk through that place. I hope they beat the c&*p out of Tractor Supply that moved in that center and took away their parking.


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## Duke S

*all dressed up and no where to go*

Got it rigged operational to go watch the Blues fly with my daughter. Whitecaps on the sound, 15 knots, thunderstorms keep rolling in, I'm thinking I can wait for a better day for a first trip. 

There is still plenty to do. Motor fired right up, but need to get it checked out. Got 36 gallons in the tank. Still need to make the upper storage box for the console, and get a new hatch cover, thinking maybe solid teak ply, that's what was on the console of my old '76 20ft Mako.Seat cushions for the front of the console and seatbox should be done soon. New ss capacity plate is about to get stuck right above the switches.

So, this will be the last post for awhile. I'll start another thread when I get to the hull work. I really appreciate all the comments, advice and help, met some great people in the process too. Thanks everyone.


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