# Electronics Box Build



## SoCal619 (Nov 18, 2011)

So this weekend I finally got around to finishing my e-box and decided to use some tactics from my days of building sub boxes figuring Iif I could keep the overall weight down, it shouldn't be too difficult. Heres a short build thread with some pics for anybody whose got the itch to give it a shot.











I began with a bright idea and drew up a ghetto blueprint to get started before heading to Lowe's (10% military discount son) to conduct my in-store brainstorming.










I decided to use 1/8 inch poplar as the skeleton on the top and bottom figuring it would absorb the resin once it was sanded and would remain pretty lightweight yet still rigid enough to glass with cedar framing boards for the corners. I also added some 1/2 inch cedar to the sides thinking I would mount it to the t-top from the sides (which I didn't end up doing anyway, so much for brainstorming). I secured all the wood pieces with wood screws and wood glue

















Once the frame was assembled and sanded I decided to wrap the body with cloth fabric (fleece) which I would soak up with resin before laying glass, just like you would a sub box. I secured the cloth with staples to the wood than applied the polyester resin in large amounts.

























Next, I began with layering the cloth mat with the resin which took a good day to complete. I put a total of 4 layers on and did my best to roll out all of the air bubbles but managed to miss a few that I ended up having to fill with resin the following couple of days as I was sanding and discovering pockets near the corners and such. What was new to me that I've never experienced making sub enclosures is that as the glass cures, it attempts to round itself out and not adhereing to the substrate where it needs to make good right angles. Oh well though I did my best and as stated earlier where there were larger bubbles, I simply broke the glass out and filled with "cat hair" that I made with the mat and lots of resin.

















Next task was to add a whole lot of bondo and sand, more bondo, sand, more bondo, sand. After I completely sanded the box to a smooth surface I used glazing putty to fill in the pin holes to have a nice surface to apply primer to.










































After progressively wet sanding from 300-1000 grit I cleaned the box and rattle canned it with some primer. For the primer, paint, and clear coat, I used rustoleum automotive primer. This was not as time consuming as most think, but if you prep the area to be primed and painted meticulously, it makes this part much easier.

















Now is where I have to apologize. Between working seven days a week and trying to build this thing, I kind of forgot to keep up with the pictures, but to keep everyone up to speed, I painted the inside of the box white (x3 coats) and the oustide a metallic blue (x4 coats) to match the blue accents from the leaning post and the boat graphics. I used the rattle cans as well and was mindful of the thickness of each layer as it went on. To prevent chipping, it's best to spray on multiple light layers instead of thicker ones. Being patient is the key here. Once it was all painted I drilled the pilot holes for the hardware. Shot out to Destin Sunrise Marine for providing me a decent hatch spring for around 10 bucks. Back to Lowe's for a 3/8 inch Lexan door; $53 for a 2x4 ft sheet (smallest they had in that thickness) which Im glad I got because on my first attempt to trying to screw hardware in the door I cracked the piece. 
*Note: when drilling into Lexan, always start with a small guage drill bit for the pilot hole getting progressively larger for the designated size screw hole. As durable as this plastic is, it is tricky to work with. 

Added the two stainless steel hinges and than I used a forstner bit to make a 1 inch hole for the locking hatch ($20 at West Marine, probably way cheaper online) and than pre-assembled everything before mounting to the t-top.

For mounting I used some stainless steel u-bolts and all stainless steel fence hardware from good ole' Lowes again to mount in directly to the t-top without drilling into the aluminum t-top. I secured the u-bolts to the top with a bracket, and secured the u-bolt to the e-box with 1 1/2 inch rubber washers, metal washers on top of those and nuts to secure everything. Weather stripping was added to the box along where the lexan door touches to aid in noise rattling and make a tighter fit with the locking hatch. I also used a few strips of 1 inch thick weather stripping to help brace the box from the outside along where it contacts the t-top to absorb any shock. I wish I had better pictures of how it's mounted because even I was actually surprised of how sturdy this is with minimal mounting hardware. This thing doesn't rattle a bit and is secured super tight to the top. Also, for final assembly, I placed 3M 4200 in all the pilot holes (hardware included) throughout the entire piece for the extra security in waterproofing.










































All in all, I don't think it was a bad build for my first time. Looking back I could've put more patience in when shaping the bondo to ensure the surface had absolutely no dips in it but as stated earlier, it took me longer than I wanted to because I couldn't devote as much time to the build as I would have liked, but structurally, this thing is solid and I see it lasting for the life of the boat. When it's all said and done, it only cost me just over 200 bucks if you don't add the cost of the power sander I had to buy and all of the the extra hardware I was going to use but didn't. And it only weighs 24 lbs, not too bad. I think the CE Smith box says it weighs 32 lbs if I'm not mistaken. Hope you enjoyed the thread and as usual, any and all input to include some constructive criticism is greatly appreciated. Can't wait to get my stereo and VHF up in that thing!


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## floater1 (Oct 31, 2007)

damn that looks like it belongs nice job


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## marmidor (Mar 15, 2008)

This is the stuff that pisses me off. I wish I had just a tiny portion of your talent. I can't even draw a stickman. No really man just kidding you have a gift. Awesome work my friend.


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## submariner (Oct 2, 2007)

nice looking work should be functional and when you look at it you should feel some pride in doing it yourself Way to Go


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## specktackler57 (May 15, 2011)

nice job.


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## SoCal619 (Nov 18, 2011)

Appreciate all the positive feedback, thanks fellas. As a reminder too, the boat I put it on is still up for sale!


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## jcasey (Oct 12, 2007)

Very nice Indeed !


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