# Let's just get this out of the way...Rage or Slick Trick?



## deersniper270 (Apr 29, 2009)

Been using the Rages for 3 years now but I am wanting something more durable. Rages are only good for like 1 deer and forget resharpening them. Heard the Slick Tricks are great and I'm thinking of switching because I can resharpen them. 

So, how accurate are they? What other broadhead would y'all recommend. I'm shooting 62lbs with a 26in draw so don't need some huge expandable.


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## The Mayor (Aug 20, 2009)

Ohhhh man this might get good..........go to "archerytalk.com" bowhunter showcase forum. There is a thread called "real deal broadhead test" on page 1........130,000 hits in 20 days! Look on the last page or so and the guy doing it is"sethro", he has a spreadsheet link on all his posts with the results of about 50 heads........... Maybe you can post the spreadsheet link here if you want some feedback.......good luck


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## outdoorkid (Jan 6, 2010)

NAP Spitfire Maxx. The deer do not stand a chance with these. They do not require anything special and always deploy. Can't go wrong with them.


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## MikeG (Oct 5, 2007)

Rage are great heads, but Tricks are so freakin deadly accurate and tough as nails. You can sharpen Tricks with one of those accusharp knife sharpeners and they leave slug holes.


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## JoeZ (Sep 30, 2007)

The first deer I shot with a Grizz Trick had an entry hole in it that I could (and did) stick three fingers in. I didn't need any more information after that. That and the 2 minute tracking job following what looked like a spray paint can had exploded.


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## fisheye48 (Sep 28, 2007)

i havent shot a slick trick but they do from what ive seen do some amazing damage...ive shot rage for a while and never had a problem with them...but i am interested in shooting the G5 T3's since it has a retention clip on it to keep the blades from falling open


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## deersniper270 (Apr 29, 2009)

Alright so would I have to "tune" my bow for the slick tricks or do they shoot like a field point? I've tried muzzy and stinger buzzcuts and they were no where near accurate and each one flew differently.


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## deersniper270 (Apr 29, 2009)

Here's the broadhead spreadsheet link 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/lv?key=0AgJEvQwzfDRZdGxzdC15R0JIZDJGQ1J4bVpGV1pTWHc


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## Collard (Oct 23, 2007)

I'll stick with my Steeforce heads. Two in the top 5. And they're resharpable ...shooting some of the same heads since '98.Don't get caught up in the fads.....use what you know works


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## Collard (Oct 23, 2007)

Only two mechanical broadheads make the top 20 on this chart go figure. Why Itake a chance on using a mechanical broadhead when you know using a fixed broadhead will work 100 percent of the time if you can hit your target?


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## Grassflatsfisher (Oct 3, 2007)

My slicks hit dead on. As far as tuning your bow...you should tune it regardless of the head. I paper tune mine every year.

Slick and grizz tricks are ridiculous. I've only had one deer make it out if sight, and it was just barely out of it. My dad has had the same experience with them. They get the job done and no need to worry about moving parts.


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## The Mayor (Aug 20, 2009)

25-30mph prairie crosswinds........huge exit holes.........65 yd shots hittin in the same spot as FPs..........jus sayin. Never had to worry about 2 of those 3 till now. Scan thru that test thread, pretty interesting reading....some of those mechanicals were junk......some were not. Just like anything else


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## BOGIA (Oct 7, 2007)

you will not be dissapointed with grizz tricks.they fly with my field points and i shot three deer with them last year,1 went 8 steps, one went around 30yds and the other went no where.they were still fairly sharp after going through deer and sticking in the gound,the holes they leave are huge.last year was my first year with them and i see no point in ever changing to anything else.plus they are cheaper than those one shot heads.my buddy shot a couple pigs with them with same results.


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## BOGIA (Oct 7, 2007)

as far as mechanicals go,i would go with a spitfire.been around a long time and i have never lost a animal with those,but i think they will be collecting dust after using the grizzz tricks.


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## Grassflatsfisher (Oct 3, 2007)

I don't really like the new grizz tricks. The tip is to long to me. I liked the old ones better. I moved back to regular tricks last year. 

Anybody else have the same thoughts?


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## bigbulls (Mar 12, 2008)

Working sporting goods retail we don't get paid crap but we do get to play with all the toys. The Slick Tricks are, IMO, about the best performing broadhead on the market for North American game. They're 100% steel, tough as nails, God awful sharp, fly extremely well, penetrate extremely well through bone, and cut more tissue than most mechanicals on the market... including Rage. Personally I just don't see any need to shoot a mechanical broadhead. I just don't see a reason why I would risk having the only piece of the entire set up that actually kills the animal to be anything less than completely reliable.



> I'm shooting 62lbs with a 26in draw so don't need some huge expandable.


With your specs I would use the slick trick magnum, razor trick, or the new viper trick. I would lean away from the Grizz trick just because it its over all size.



> Alright so would I have to "tune" my bow for the slick tricks or do they shoot like a field point? I've tried muzzy and stinger buzzcuts and they were no where near accurate and each one flew differently.


All bows should be tuned properly. If you can't get fixed blade broahdeads like Magnus stingers to fly properly then your set up is out of tune. You are wasting energy, reducing penetration, and are less accurate than you could be, even with shooting a mechanical broadhead. There's a lot more to bow tuning than just shooting through paper. It's pretty easy to get a bullet hole through paper even with very under spined arrows. Paper tuning is a starting point.


Rob, though I prefer the slick trick magnums over the Grizz tricks I prefer the longer ferrule of the GT2. It helps avoid any deflection possibilities on hard quartering shots with the wide blades that the GT has. I', gonna give the viper tricks a good run this year though. With the way they are designed I think they just might be the perfect broadhead.


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## BOGIA (Oct 7, 2007)

i have the grizz trick 2's.no issues with them.


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## Emerald Ghost (Mar 11, 2008)

fisheye48 said:


> i havent shot a slick trick but they do from what ive seen do some amazing damage...ive shot rage for a while and never had a problem with them...but i am interested in shooting the G5 T3's since it has a retention clip on it to keep the blades from falling open


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey Fishhead,
I choot the Slick Tricks, but the T3's are an excelent head.


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## Try'n Hard (Oct 23, 2008)

I'm gonna double up on my practice this year and just hunt with my field points! Just kidding but there is a degree of common sense in the theory!


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## jjeffrey (Jun 7, 2012)

rage has a new 2.3 and a 2.0 with a chisel tip on it u can buy replacement blades for them , i will have the 2.3 this year , seen them today at broxsons


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## Capt. Mickey Locke (Oct 4, 2007)

Rage is the first mechanical broadhead I used after loosing several deer to Muzzy's. So far Im 16 for 16 with the furthest going maybe 40 yards and the farthest shot was 47 yards. Until they quit making them is the only time Im gonna quit shooting them. I killed 5 deer last year with one broadhead and one arrow, just hit them with a sharpener a couple licks and they were good to go. I didnt crush any bone on either of the shots which play a big part in not damaging the blades.......100% Rage!


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## deersniper270 (Apr 29, 2009)

bigbulls said:


> Working sporting goods retail we don't get paid crap but we do get to play with all the toys. The Slick Tricks are, IMO, about the best performing broadhead on the market for North American game. They're 100% steel, tough as nails, God awful sharp, fly extremely well, penetrate extremely well through bone, and cut more tissue than most mechanicals on the market... including Rage. Personally I just don't see any need to shoot a mechanical broadhead. I just don't see a reason why I would risk having the only piece of the entire set up that actually kills the animal to be anything less than completely reliable.
> 
> With your specs I would use the slick trick magnum, razor trick, or the new viper trick. I would lean away from the Grizz trick just because it its over all size.
> 
> ...


Yeah with my setup (Diamond Razor Edge) I've been using the 40KE Rage since my bow isn't as fast as some of the newer bows out there. If I hit perfect in the heart they do great but the hole they make is a sliver and they run forever. I tried the Redhead Gator last year and they flew very straight like the rage and put a doe down but she ran like 80yards with a double lung. I just want something that'll make a good hole and I can reuse it. I missed twice last year misjudging a hill shot and the rages were done. 

Hope the slick tricks workout. Oh and my bow is tuned I guess I meant will I have to adjust my sights or will they fly the same as field points like the rage. I guess I'll be buying a pack soon and figuring it out before the season!


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## Splittine (Nov 24, 2007)

Do yourself a favor and take your bow to Outcast to have it tuned. It needs to be paper tuned.


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## dajowi (Jan 15, 2008)

You can kill 'em with field points if you put it in the right spot. To answer the question, I'll be shooting tricks...


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## Grassflatsfisher (Oct 3, 2007)

Quartering trick exit...









Broad side trick entrance...looked like someone shot a roll of quarters through her....


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## bigbulls (Mar 12, 2008)

> Oh and my bow is tuned I guess I meant will I have to adjust my sights or will they fly the same as field points like the rage.


If you are shooting a quality broadhead then you should not have to adjust your sights. IF you have to adjust your sights to your broadheads then something about your set up is off. It may not be the bow itself. It could be an under spined arrow, it could be the broadhead isn't perfectly square to the arrow, it could be low quality arrows (buy the best arrows you can afford). Any number of things could be off just a little.

There are several more things that go into being perfectly tuned than just the bow. Think of a complete bow set up as tuning an entire band. If just one instrument in the band is off then the band doesn't sound as good as it could.




> Hope the slick tricks workout.


I would strongly suggest the razor tricks or the viper tricks. 

Another thing that will help you tremendously with penetration and getting an exit wound is a *heavy arrow with a heavier tip*. Yeah, you loose some speed but you gain a lot in penetration. Build an arrow that weighs 6 to 8 grains per pound of draw weight and be amazed at how much better they will penetrate through a deer.






> Do yourself a favor and take your bow to Outcast to have it tuned. It needs to be paper tuned.


As I said above. Paper tuning is a starting point. It's pretty easy to get a perfect bullet hole in paper with field tips and badly under or over spined arrows. I can usually paper tune any bow, with what ever arrow you have in your quiver, in a few minutes but it doesn't mean much unless every thing else is right also. Screw a broadhead on one of these under spined arrows and all that tuning was for nothing.

Another thing is that no one but you can get your bow tuned perfectly. I don't care who you take it to, what method they use, if they use a hooter shooter, etc... etc... if they, and not you, shoot the bow and tune it with them shooting it then it isn't tuned. Simple as that. Some people are intimidated with tuning a bow and they are fine with having me or someone else tune their bow and that's fine, glad to do it, but it isn't going to be tuned as well as it could be.


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