# Renegade Rebuild



## Mullit

Privateer renegade 2400 just waiting to become a center console.


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## Mullit

Sold the house and bow rail and moved into a warehouse I rented. The original plan was to ditch the bracket and 140s, make the floor flat, bring the cap back, add a console leaning post, transom livewell and paint. Simple right! The new plan, gut the whole boat put it all back new. Like many projects the further you dig the more you find and find I did. Rot in the transom hole in fuel tank etc. So let the fun begin I will try and keep the pics coming.


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## smooth move

love to see the outcome.


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## Mullit

More pics


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## Ocean Master

It looks like your headed in the right direction.


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## Mullit

So the plan now goes like this,extend cap add anchor locker new Coosa transom Coosa deck flat bow to stern divinycell H80 stringers new tank (tbd) tall console recessed to hull bottom key west style stand thru top leaning post with livewell transom livewell cut inch off cap spray rails jack plate or porta bracket suzuki 300 paint it all white . That should pretty much do it

The pictures are pretty much to where I am now. Everything is out with except some of the transom where it was still solid and the two forward stringers they will come out soon. Coosa and divinycell are ordered trying to make up my mind on tank custom aluminum with coal tar or plastic? Thinking something around 60 to 70 gallons.


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## Boardfeet

you can never have too much fuel


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## Jason

Looks like a BIG project.....I bet taking the house out will cut a decent bit of weight out. I like pilot houses though. Can't wait to see the finished product!!!


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## X-Shark

From my experience........ http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/

The washboards are to low on this boat for our area. The above link represents 5yrs of my life and $60K 

When you take a rouge wave over the side and it fills the cockpit it will scare the [email protected]*t out of you.... People acting fast on my command kept the boat from going down.

But you'll have fun building it.


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## Mullit

Shark just took a glance but wow, can't wait to have some time to look through the build. Jealous of your vacuum pump setup, is it worth the money? I have researched the process quit a bit and am interested but have yet to explore the initial cost and where to best source material. As far as the gunnel height it is low but this boat will rarely leave sight of the beach( big bay boat,state water snapper hauler).


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## Mullit

After today I am very interested in any info on vacuum bagging that anyone will share? Removed the mold from another hatch gutter only to find many voids, I tried to shortcut the process and will pay the filing fairing price oh well. Point being had I bagged the part properly=no voids to fill and fair and still using a stack layup=time saving and time is money. So before I go and buy a pump,peal ply,film,tape,ect. From fiberglass supply any tips or suggestions or links will be greatly appreciated.


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## X-Shark

> ( big bay boat,state water snapper hauler).


The Time we took water over was 3/4mi offshore we were Cobia fishing.

But onto other things. 

I have all the Peel Ply , bleeder cloth & bag material that you might need.

Large rolls.

[850] 207-4632


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## Mullit

So now that the transom washboard has the hump removed I will cut a compound curve from full width down to 12 inches to match the rest of the cap. A picture of the upper control box.


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## Mullit

The Coosa and divinycell is ordered figuring yardage for fabric tonight.


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## Mullit

Finished tabbing in the transom livewell hatch gutter started the console with a jig and fitting the foam.


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## Mullit

The console in divinycell and the first layer of biax and epoxy. Materials are ( tan foam H80 divinycell .5 inch, green H45 .5, grey is coosa bluewater 20lb)


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## hsiF deR

When I saw the picture, I thought dang, that looks like my dads old work boat. The I saw your in PCB. 
He mentioned to me that the guy bought it was going to turn it into a CC. Cool project.


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## X-Shark

Add more reinforcement at the area the helm will mount.

Remember the steering wheel is a grab handle for the captian. It needs to be a little more beefy.


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## sfmill

Just wondering how its going? Really love this thread.


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## Mullit

A few shots of my first vacuum bagged hatch gutter and the Coosa vacuumed to the transom. Finally starting to put things back together, I gotta say I was very happy Saturday morning when the transom was cured.


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## Mullit

Things are going pretty much as planned, however some things have been more difficult than planned like a new fuel tank, having to order everything, and the transom. Getting it back to bare glass was a huge pita. It was a patchwork of lots of roven woven, new and old plywood, stainless screws, nails, 5200, gallons of polyester resin some of which didn't cure fully. In hindsight I would have just cut the whole thing out and started from scratch.


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## Mullit

Stringers have been vacuum bagged and tabbed in. Not an exact measurement but the new stringers didn't weigh 40 lbs together, less than a quarter of the weight of one of the old ones. They are built with 2 layers of H80 divinycell covered by 2 layers 17 oz biax(1,0/90 1,45/45) 105/206 and bagged.


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## X-Shark

Looking at your gauge.

Watch your vac. levels. A high vac seems like a good idea, but ..... can result in a resign starved area.

15in is 1 atmosphere and will result in "aprox." 2000lbs of pressure per sqft.


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## Mullit

Would you mind sharing what vacuum you shoot for as others have recommended I shoot for something over 20 especially on larger parts. So far I am really pleased with my parts but I did have a small dry spot on one stringer about the size of a half dollar. I attributed it to a possible pin hole in the bag? Luckily it was cut out! From what info I have the weight and amount of bleader material and cure time have a lot to do with resin transfer? Also as my resin reaches initial cure my vacuum climbs a few hg is that normal? I know I haven't made a perfect seal with the exception of the parts done one the table as it held vacuum after I closed the valve. Even with the leaks I haven't collected more than an ounce or two of resin in my trap and the finished parts appear fine other than the one obvious dry spot. Any pointers are greatly appreciated as I am certainly a rookie at vacuum bagging. Lastly any better method to control vacuum other than a tee in the line with a valve? 
Had a busy weekend got a lot done did some grinding and cutting got the deck panels cut along with the new bulkhead also cleaned the shop, hopefully I will get the deck and bulkhead glassed later this week once the weather improves.


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## X-Shark

Sounds like your on the right track..... The info you asked about is in my post 15hgin.

This was mostly on flat panels on a table and aprox 2 to 3sqft of surface area.


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## OLDBOB

You sure have a lot of work ahead of you. Save all of your bills and log your time so you know how much you have invested. Good luck.


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## X-Shark

OLDBOB said:


> You sure have a lot of work ahead of you. Save all of your bills and log your time so you know how much you have invested. Good luck.


Oh No..... Don't do that..... You will just make yourself sick. 

Been There - Done That !

For multiple reasons.

1] I could have just financed the boat I wanted and been fishing.

2] Resale is less than 50% of your investment.


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## BuckWild

update?


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## Mullit

Update


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## Mullit

Update


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## Mullit

Lots of work happy with the progress but it's going slower than I had estimated. Hopefully the cap will be on before the weekend.


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## X-Shark

So..... What's going on with the spray rails...... or is that a temp clamp?


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## Mullit

Shark all I can say is they are not finished. However here is an update. Still not completely fair but I am down to that last 5%that takes 5 forevers.I know the rails look a little off in the picture but if zoom in you can see its in the gel coat. Whoever taped this one was either a rookie or drunk. When I back off to look at them I have to hold up a sanding block to cover it, drives me nuts.


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## X-Shark

Ha! I gotcha.  I have in the past found that shaping the ends is easier before they are installed.

Keep plugging away. Sprayable fairing compound is expensive.....But it sure speeds up the fairing process.


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## Mullit

My original plan was to shape the entire rail before installing. However when I test fit regardless of how I fastened them they made a unfair bend. So, I shaped them in place. Yes more work but I think it actually turned out for the best. What are you using and spraying with. I want to use awlgrip high build but I don't know if I have the equipment needed to spray it.


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## X-Shark

Yes Awlgrip High Build....I use a conventional gun with a large tip.

You have to thin it some too.

This gun has a 2.3mm tip for spraying it.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200319459_200319459


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## WhyMe

What an undertaking. Plz keep the pix comin.
Whyme


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## Mullit

Cap still fits!


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## Mullit

Few more


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## Mullit

Shark thanks for the info on the gun. It and the primer should here Friday, hopefully the weather will hold for the weekend.


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## Mullit

Two coats of high build. The gun XSHARK recommend worked great. Probably should have spent another day sanding, but not bad. Everything looks fair just a few rough spots that I missed after filling?


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## Mullit

Few more


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## X-Shark

Great  Now fix those small spots. 

Here is a hint: For small gouges and pinholes....Use a single edge razor blade as your spreader. This will keep that spot small and easy to sand out.

Then 3 coats of 545 ..... apply Guide coat and block that sucker with 400gt wet 

What color is the final going to be?


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## Jason

Man, I'm hot and tired looking at all them pics!!! Looking good!


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## BuckWild

any updates?


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## OLDBOB

Very professional looking. Can't wait to see it finished.


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