# Cypress Trailer Bunk Boards



## steamin53

I need to replace the 3"x8"x8' bunk boards on my trailer. I'm planning to use cypress rough sawn to dimension. Can I use it green and not worry about warping?

Steve


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## woody

There is a lumberyard near Milton that sells cypress, call them and ask.


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## Breeze Fabricators

*wood*

Go to Merideth lumber and look at the rough cut treated lumber for seawalls. It is the correct demension and inexpensive


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## X-Shark

Harold,Fl. is on the East side of Milton. There is a sawmill there that specializes in Cypress. They cut a Lot of Cypress bunk's there.

This is where you will get your best deal.

http://filmnorthflorida.com/photos/location/Harold:-Wilson-Lumber-Mill


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## steamin53

Thanks for the input guys. In fact, I have already received a quote from Wilson Lumber in Milton. Great price. 

If I used the pressure treated material would I risk corrosion to the fittings and the aluminum parts of the trailer? I've heard some horror stories about the corrosiveness of the new chemicals they use to PT the wood now the Big Brother has stopped the arsenic based chemical from being used.

My concern is whether I can use it green without concerns of warping. Once installed the boat will be on them all the time. I wonder if that will counter warpage?


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## johnsonbeachbum

This was in Pensacola Craigslist this past week:

LUMBER, HARDWOOD, BLACK WALNUT 4/4 (1"), 8/4 (2") THICK, 4-10 INCHES WIDE 8-9 FEET LONG $4.00 A BOARD FOOT, HICKORY, PERSIMMON 4/4, 4-8 WIDE, 8-12 LONG $2.75 A BOARD, PECAN 4/4, 18 -20 INCHES WIDE, 12 FEET LONG $4.00 A BOARD FOOT, , *CYPRESS VARIOUS $1.75 A BOARD FOOT*, CHERRY 4-10" WIDE 6-8 FOOT LONG $3.00 A BOARD FOOT, ASH, 4 INCHES WIDE 8 FOOT LONG $1.50 A BOARD FOOT, SYCAMORE 4-12 INCHES WIDE BY 10 FOOT LONG $2.00 A BOARD FOOT, CEDAR VARIOUS, $1.75 A BOARD FOOT, JUNIPER 4-12 INCHES WIDE AND FROM 6 TO 16 FEET LONG $3.00 A BOARD FOOT, OAK 6-8 INCHES WIDE AND 8 FOOT LONG $2.00 A BOARD FOOT. CALL 850-944-9859 

I think I would try to use stuff that has been stacked to dry for several weeks.


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## johnsonbeachbum

steamin53 said:


> Thanks for the input guys. In fact, I have already received a quote from Wilson Lumber in Milton. Great price.
> 
> If I used the pressure treated material would I risk corrosion to the fittings and the aluminum parts of the trailer? I've heard some horror stories about the corrosiveness of the new chemicals they use to PT the wood now the Big Brother has stopped the arsenic based chemical from being used.
> 
> My concern is whether I can use it green without concerns of warping. Once installed the boat will be on them all the time. I wonder if that will counter warpage?


The old chemical treated stuff is now reserved for marine grade uses.
Suppose to be less detrimental to metals but if you read up on industry recommendations, they warn against using either in contact with metals.
Sometimes you can cheat by using a plastic or rubber barrier, etc.

If the green stuff is not installed in the right position, I think the boat would help it warp to some extent ?


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## steamin53

Thanks all. Good info!

I talked with Eddie English in Milton who builds trailers and his recommendations are two 2x8 PT boards laminated for each bunk (sort of - nailed with galvanized ring shank nails). He says the two PT pine boards when laminated that way is actually stronger than the 3"x8"x8' cypress plank. I 'spose it would be if the boards were also glued in the lamination and that would be simple enough to do with some Gorilla Glue.

Sounds cost effective to me. Especially if one were to use the marine grade PT as it is still CCA treated at higher content ratings of chemical than the basic PT pine from the big box stores. He says as long as the board is not in direct contact with aluminum as with a pontoon boat, etc, corrosion isn't an issue. I like the idea of using stainless bolts and a plastic barrier between the brackets and the bunk boards (wonder if my wife will notice the missing tupperware). :yes:

Steve


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## kanaka

Every time I see a solution that uses a thin plastic, it makes me crazy that I don't buy those plastic boards for water slides that go on sale when the weather cools off. Don't see em that often and when I do, I blow it off....


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## johnsonbeachbum

you can also use the plastic from milk jugs, laundry soap jugs, antifreeze and oil jugs.
or go to the dollar store and get some of those plastic cutting board sheets.
They are about three times thicker then the milk jugs.


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## X-Shark

> If I used the pressure treated material would I risk corrosion to the fittings and the aluminum parts of the trailer?


The answer is Yes.



> Sounds cost effective to me. Especially if one were to use the marine grade PT as it is still CCA treated at higher content ratings of chemical than the basic PT pine from the big box stores. He says as long as the board is not in direct contact with aluminum as with a pontoon boat, etc, corrosion isn't an issue.


Standard 2X's in PT are .25 pressure treated. This is Not for direct ground contact.

4X4's and other posts are .40 PT and are designed for direct ground contact.

Marine grade PTing is 2.5 . That is what the pilings are.

I wouldn't use galvanized. It would be stainless screws.

But I'd still use the Cypress from Wilson's.

There is a right way and a wrong way to set the bunks to the brackets.

The brackets a set loosely with one thru bolt. The bunk is then set on top of that. This eases the install and keeps the bunks parallel. Then the other cross bolt is installed thru the bunk after drilling.

Look how the bolts are in the bracket in this pix.


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## Spooled

It is very important to isolate aluminum from treated wood.


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## steamin53

Thanks for the input people.

X-Shark I'm puzzled as to why only one bolt is recommended through the bunk. It would seem to me that if there is any shrinkage to the bunk on the (in my case) 8" axis of the 3"x8"x7' bunk that it would cause the load to be carried by only one bolt and risk splitting the board.

The brackets provided to me by Eddie English actually use a parallel pattern of bolts so that multiple bolts bear the load. The original brackets on my trailer are made as the ones in your pic.

Eddie English recommended PT pine with two 2x8 boards laminated together because of increased strength gained by the lamination. Of course the trailer manufacturer built it with a one piece 3"x8"x7' of what appears to be cypress.

My concern about using the cypress is that it will be green and I'm worried it will warp. 

Whats your take on that?


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