# Best tool to cut starboard?



## SaltAddict (Jan 6, 2010)

I saw a really cool looking design for a speargun rack made from starboard. I will need to make some cuts that (if made of wood) look like a jigsaw would be the tool of choice. Does starboard tend to melt or discolor with high speed cutting? Also, I will need to round edges. Can I use sanding bits on a dremel, or is there a better way? What is the best way to bind starboard to starboard... 5200?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## h2o4u (Dec 1, 2011)

You cut it just like you would wood. Router cuts come out really nice. I have used table saw, chop saw, jig saw, drill and router with no problems what so ever.


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## skiff man99 (Oct 4, 2007)

Jig saw with metal cutting blade and a rotozip if you need to cut something out


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## Trophyhusband (Nov 30, 2011)

I agree, just use wood working tools. It works a little different from wood and there sometimes is a little melting, but you get the hang of it pretty fast. I would recommend that for something that looks like you need a jigsaw, you should make a template from MDF first. Use the template to trace the outline on the starboard and cut it out with the jigsaw just leaving the outline on the work piece. Then use the template and a flush trim bit on a router to clean up the edges. I've found that the router doesn't like to take much material at a time so the rough cut should be closer to the line than it would be if you were using wood.

As far as gluing, I've read about a glue for HDPE that is expensive and is a pain to use. I haven't tried it. I haven't had much luck with welding it either. I use stainless countersink screws. Just be sure to use pilot holes.


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## Chris V (Oct 18, 2007)

Ditto Jigsaw with metal blade. Metal blades with lots of teeth make for a nice smooth cut and ease in transitioning a curved cut.


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## BuckWild (Oct 2, 2007)

get the Bosch Special blades for laminate. They have lots of teeth and are doubled up. They cut extremely smooth way better than regular wood blades. Most times, it doesnt need sanding if you use these blades.


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## captken (Feb 24, 2008)

*I've had better luck with a bandsaw*

A band saw with a skip-tooth blade works best. (IMHO) No melting because the blade has time to cool on its way around. A regular jig saw works ok but I have had a little problem with melting.

However you cut it, Star Board is a superior product. I've cut at least a mile of it. It sure is easier to handle than teak. I made several spear gun stocks out of Starboard with absolutely no problems. They were mighty quiet too.


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## SaltAddict (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies! With the weather doing its' thing, seems like project time.

I will post some pics after I get it completed.


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## Creative Acrylics (Oct 2, 2007)

I'd use a rotozip and grinder to get it smooth. Hand sand with 100 grit after that. You can pick up a cheap rotozip that works good at Harbor Freight for less than $20.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

For straight cuts I use my tabesaw. But I cut slightly proud of the line. This is because you still get teeth marks left at the cut edge. I then go to the joiner and bring the piece to size.

DO NOT make marks on Starboard! Use 2in wide masking tape to cover the piece and lay your marks out on the tape.

I'm guessing a "speargun rack" would be similar to a gun rack? Where the large hooks are you could use a holesaw to make that radius.

A sanding drum in a drill press will smooth the teeth marks well. Then come back and break the edges with a round over bit in a router.


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## Breeze Fabricators (Oct 2, 2007)

*Hole saws*

X is right on on the hole saw for the barrel and butt holder cutouts. After you use your router on the edges use a butane torch to gently flame polish the edges. Practice on a few drops first. This is a secret used to finish the edges on most plexi's,UHDP's, and poly laminates!!


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## Trophyhusband (Nov 30, 2011)

X-Shark said:


> For straight cuts I use my tabesaw. But I cut slightly proud of the line. This is because you still get teeth marks left at the cut edge. I then go to the joiner and bring the piece to size.


The same thing was happening to me and I didn't think anything of it, but my father-in-law gave me a new blade and now it finishes perfect. I'll take a look and get back on what blade it is. 



> DO NOT make marks on Starboard! Use 2in wide masking tape to cover the piece and lay your marks out on the tape.
> 
> I'm guessing a "speargun rack" would be similar to a gun rack? Where the large hooks are you could use a holesaw to make that radius.
> 
> A sanding drum in a drill press will smooth the teeth marks well. Then come back and break the edges with a round over bit in a router.


These are great tips. A disk sander is perfect for final shaping/sanding of outside radiuses too.


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## Trophyhusband (Nov 30, 2011)

Breeze Fabricators said:


> After you use your router on the edges use a butane torch to gently flame polish the edges. Practice on a few drops first. This is a secret used to finish the edges on most plexi's,UHDP's, and poly laminates!!


Thanks for this tip, I'll add it to my arsenal. I've used the torch (as well as the oven) to heat up and bend HDPE, but haven't tried it for cleaning up the edges.


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## SaltAddict (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks X. The hole saw is a great idea. Yes, it looks much like a gun rack. Two pieces. Top part is what you are talking about. The bottom will be a long tray wi th box dividers to keep the butt of the gun from sliding around. The top will have bungee loops to hold the gun in place.


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## SaltAddict (Jan 6, 2010)

Cool trick Tim. I will definentley practice that one.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> but my father-in-law gave me a new blade and now it finishes perfect.


Really? Because I use a 60 tooth blade and still get mark's. I have a Cabinet saw.....Not just a cheap tablesaw.

About blades for a tablesaw. I've bought and used plenty of high dollar Frued blades.

The Harbor Freight C3 Carbide Lifetime blades for aprox $20 are hard to beat. They will hold .010 tolerance. That's excellent, after all we are talking wood here for the most part of their use.


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## Breeze Fabricators (Oct 2, 2007)

*Blades*

What dia. are the blades X?


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## Trophyhusband (Nov 30, 2011)

X-Shark said:


> Really? Because I use a 60 tooth blade and still get mark's. I have a Cabinet saw.....Not just a cheap tablesaw.
> 
> About blades for a tablesaw. I've bought and used plenty of high dollar Frued blades.
> 
> The Harbor Freight C3 Carbide Lifetime blades for aprox $20 are hard to beat. They will hold .010 tolerance. That's excellent, after all we are talking wood here for the most part of their use.


Here's a pic of it. He's sure he got it at Lowes or Home Depot, but he can't remember how much it was.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> What dia. are the blades X?


10in.


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