# Rotted pilings under house



## Guynamedtom (Oct 6, 2013)

Anyone ever have this issue and had it repaired? If so, replace the pilings or form up and inject concrete?


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

You did not mention the height of these 'piles' or the soil type, location. This is going to dictate what method you use to repair.

If they are short, you are going to be better off with pre-cast concrete piles. Just pour a pad under each before moving into place.

If they are long, you need to dig them down, into the ground, put in a re-bar cage and pour via a hose that will reach the bottom of the form and can be pulled up as you pour. Each pile will need to be poured completely at one time. Monolithic style. I don't really know what you are talking about when you say 'injection' but you need a concrete design with good sized aggregate.


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## Guynamedtom (Oct 6, 2013)

The house is on 16' pilings in sand. The bottom of some of pilings from soil line down several inches is rotten. Not sure how deep until the company assesses. I don't own the house I am looking to buy it. Owners agreed to repair and have certified by a structural engineer but I am leery. Just looking for advice from anyone that may have had the concrete repair you mention with the cage etc and what is the lifespan of this repair. Seems to me that once wood starts to rot, even surrounding it in concrete won't stop the rot. But I am not a biologist or structural engineer or a piling replacer/repairer


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

OK. 16' from the ground up? Sand. Near salt water or fresh? How deep is the water table?

First thing I need to tell you is not to accept concrete poured AROUND the wood piles. This is a formula for disaster. It's just plain 'bush league' fix. Not really a fix at all. 

Each existing piling needs to be 'shored up' by jacks or 'cribbing' and replaced with a properly installed, concrete piling. Your rot, at ground level, is normal for wood pilings. Termites attack here first and the fact that it is usually wet there just makes the 'chewing' that much easier. 

Anyway, you have to be part of the final decision. The seller is going to try to replace as cheaply as possible and a bunch of unscrupulous contractors are going to try to sell you on some 'half baked' solution. If you plan on staying in this place for 12 years or more, you really want to go with concrete that is cast in place. If the sand is soft and water table is high, you either have to go with a deeper piling (works on friction) or a spread footing.


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## Guynamedtom (Oct 6, 2013)

Thanks slim- it's actually near saltwater and pilings are 16 feet from ground up. They were put in back in early 80s. I have no idea how deep they go into the ground. I am not sure if I am going to proceed, I am waiting on seller. If I do, I want the job supervised and certified by a structural engineer. The whole thing is kind of nerve racking. I don't want to end up buying a pig with fresh lipstick


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

If you get a 'true' Certified Structural Engineer to sign off on it, his reputation is on the line and I'm sure it will be right. You should have some input on the choice of the engineering company. It's better if it's a company than some individual. If it is done, like I indicated, it should be good for about 50 years or more. If you let them talk you into pouring concrete around the wood, you are going to leave a path for termites to attack the structure, at a later date. Plus, when the wood finally deteriorates, the concrete is not going to be supported, at all. 

It sounds more complicated than it is. It's not rocket science. You need to get the Engineering Company to certify the lifetime of the repair and the parameters that have to be maintained to reach that 'lifetime'. Look for a company that has been around a long time. They will likely be around for a long time in the future. You want to be clear that they are responsible to you, in the event of a failure or problems before the time guarantee expires. Getting the previous owner to be responsible is not going to help you.

My recommendation is for you to get two or three engineering companies to come look at it, give you an estimate of their costs and the construction costs and then have the seller deduct that from the selling price and then you can execute the fix to your standards.


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