# 21 Maverick Master Angler Repair



## jimmyjams4110

This is my boat: 









Beautiful boat and the potential is great, but beauty as of right now is only skin deep... I made a costly mistake buying this boat and did not fully know what I was getting. The noticeable problem is that the tower and console are causing the deck to flex a LOT when in any kind of chop. Well after opening the hatches under the bench seat and getting down on my hands and knees for a look, I found that the deck supporting beams are in really bad shape. They don't look like stringers per say, but just supporting beams for the tub deck, about 7 ft long, on each side of the gas tank, running parallel. Here is a link for the full slide show of pics I took with captions: Link 

From what I saw, it looks like I need to cut the deck out, rip out the old beams, grind and sand the heck out of it, glass in some new ones with a few mats of 1708. I also want to beef up the deck so there is no more sag or flex. I was thinking of bonding 3/4in marine grade plywood to the bottom of it with resin and peanut butter, and glassing it with 1708 for extra strength. Afterwards, I was planning on taking the boat to a professional fiberglass guy for making sure my deck surgery is repaired and unnoticeable. Finally, I will get rid of all the ##### self taping screws the tower builders used in the first place and go with a proper aluminum backing plate with SS bolts.

I'm a pretty big do-it-yourself guy, for good reason, I don't have all the cash to pay someone else to do it, but this will be my first time ever cutting the deck out of a boat. I read and watched several stinger rebuilds but I haven't found anything on Maverick Master Anglers like mine. Can any of you'll give me any advice on the following subjects?

1. Having the stingers/beams like this, is the structural integrity of the hull compromised, or just the deck?

2. How would you make the incision cut in the deck? Or would you remove the whole top cap since it's a liner boat?

3. What type of material would you use for new beams?

4. Types of glass/resin to buy?

5. Material to beef up the floor? 

6. Any other things that you think I'm missing out of the equation. 

Much appreciated to anyone that reads and shares his/her knowledge with me. 

Thanks,
Jim 850-450-4298


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## H2OMARK

My advice would be to contact XShark (Bobby) on here. He's very well adept with doing these things. The work I've seen from him is impeccable.


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## BuckWild

Couldnt see your pics in the albums. They werent there when I looked. I feel your pain though. I just rebuilt a World Cat 266 that had a bunch of work that I did not see when I bought it. It was a hard pill to swallow and took 3.5 months to do the work, but it is finished now. It is possible for a guy with no glass experience to do the work himself, and achieve great results. It just takes figuring out what you need and then starting on it. If I could see your pics, I might have more to say.


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## tailfisher

Hey Jimmy, isnt that a liner boat.If so I would take the whole top cap off and get all damaged material out and replace the stringer with foam and glass over them. Underside of deck I would remove wood or whatever is used and put nida core down to stiffen floor. There are several different ways to do it but I would not cut the floor out if it is a drop in cap like my pathfinder. PM me if you want to talk about it.


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## jimmyjams4110

*Port side looking forward from under the bench seat.*









*Port side looking forward from under the bench seat.*









*Starboard side looking forward from under the bench seat.*


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## X-Shark

In doing this 25 Mako, it had what your talking about....A floating floor. The stringers are being replaced. But they are raised so the deck will sit on them.

The core in these is 2in PVC foam core.

The lay up is 6in. 1708 45/45 to tab the foam to the hull.
Then each side get's 4 alternating layers of 1708 45/45, 1808 0/90,1708 45/45, 1808 0/90. Then the pies was top capped with 4 layers of 6in 1708 45/45. This was so as to not have a void at the corners.

While Nidacore is a great product for a deck, it does not like to be in compression. Special attention needs to be done so that the core does not compress where the fasteners are.

Removing the cap on some boats is impossible. The foam that is injected glues them all together.

Cutting the floor a 2in to 3in piece is left around the permiter.

The boat in the pix below is how the owner cut it. But he wanted this boat a certain way.

A saw in the hands of someone that has not thought the "Whole " process thru.

..IE How are you going to put it back together? 
Is VERY dangerous and costly. It's easy to cut something apart. It's a lot harder to put it back together.


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## jimmyjams4110

Great advice! After talking with Maverick, they said trying to remove the cap would basically destroy the boat. They gave me the same advice as you did X-Shark, cut the deck out leaving 3 or so inches left around the perimeter so one could grind, putty, glass, and smooth out before gelcoating the deck. This will be a process no doubt, but some of the big question marks are disappearing and this job is seeming more and more feasible for a do-it-yourselfer like me.

Where can I get the best prices on this 2in PVC foam? X-Shark, that stinger looks to be 4 or so inches thick, what did you use to bond the two pieces of foam together? And what is the best way to form it to the proper demensions?


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## BuckWild

Advanced Plastics in Elberta, AL is where I purchased all of my materials from. They have the Divinycell in stock for most sizes. All of the resins, tools, 1708 tape in 8" and other fabrics too. Get ready to pull the checkbook out  

I would say wholeheartedly that you should think about a cut many, many times before you actually make the cut. Once it's done and wrong it turns into a major bitch to fix stuff.


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## X-Shark

Yes the PVC board came from Advanced Plastic's. It's 2in thick. My glass comes from US Composite. http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html

Note the use of alternating the direction that the strands run on each layer to give a stronger laminate.


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## jimmyjams4110

The fun has begun! Tower taken off this morning, console comnig off this evening. I want to give a big thanks to Bobby (X-shark) for taking the time to look over my boat and point me in the right direction!


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## jimmyjams4110

After a month of being out of commission, the Maverick is back in business! Perfect sea trial today, ran like a completely different boat without the tower, 7 mph faster! Top speed of 56 mph. Thanks PFF for all the help.


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## oxbeast1210

congrats!!


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## oxbeast1210

how much did the repair end up setting you back?


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## 85okhai

looks good! i kind of like it better without the tower. only downside is it sure does get hot without one


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## kanaka

Just found this thread. Did you end up cutting the floor out or just took off the tower? If you're looking for glass, I've got 1808 double bias, xynole, tabbing material , matte and either 6 or 10 oz glass that I'll let go CHEAP!!
Just P-M me if needed.


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