# Best way to re-glass?



## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Hey guys,

I just so happen to be the soon-owner of one of my dad's old boats. It's a hull made in Pensacola, and we're going to tap it and have it tested for worthiness in the next week while I'm out of town. Provided it has no structural problems, we're going to start work. The floorboards rotted out and we're pulling up the foam that was injected originally. We're planning to put a skiff-style remodel on it so I can have a poling platform, big front casting deck, all the good stuff for shallow flats fishing. Here's my question, though - 

Once we put the marine-grade plywood on the frame and get ready to glass, what's the best way to go about it? I mean, I've never mixed fiberglass before and I don't know the best brand or method. If this works out and there are no hull problems, I'll start a project thread. All help is appreciated!

-R.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

I'm no help but was wondring if you were doing a rebuild thread. it would be awesome to watch ur progress.
thanks

Sent from samsung Galaxy note using Forum Runner


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

I'm away from home right now until next week - so, when I get back and we test out the hull, if it holds up I'll do a rebuild thread.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

sweet looking forward to it

Sent from samsung Galaxy note using Forum Runner


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

You have no experience doing this type of work?????

What make boat?
What year?
Is it worth it?

If you want it done right...hire a pro.


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## jasoncooperpcola (Jan 2, 2008)

Go to West Marine and purchase West Systems Guide to Repairing Fiberglass Boats, its in the resin section. Best $6 you will ever spend! :thumbup:

My boss has my book right now, but it discusses soles, stringers, transom replacements, etc.

Also once you learn the West System epoxy system its not that complicated. I am about to begin some work on the V20 Wellcraft and i am using the West System Epoxy. I haven't used it yet, but i plan to buy a quart of each before i go balls to the wall with it.


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

The West System guide is 101 for basic laminating.

You are talking structural repairs which is boat building.

I hope you are taking into consideration the load factors that you need to account for when your inevitably alter the bones of your boat.

Things to consider when choosing the right products for the various applications you will encounter. One roduct does not work for all applications. 

Tensile strength, compression strength, shear strength etc...

Unidirectional, stitched, knit reinforcements....when and where to use them. Proper fiber ratio's. How the reinforcements are oriented to spread loads properly. 

Resins...ortho-polyester vs iso polyester, vinyl ester, epoxy. What are their best application. 

If you don"t understand how these materials behave, you can't optimize their characteristics and misuse will lead to material failure. Not something you want to have happen to the supporting structure of your boat.


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

A lot of good points and tips, guys - I appreciate it. I think maybe my inexperience lead to a poorly titled thread. I'm not going to completely re-glass the hull and guts of the boat. Those are in good shape (or at least, that will be the go/no go on the project). Right now, it's a rear-steer boat with two bench seats and a side-storage compartment. I plan to tear up the benches and cut out the side storage. The only fabrication I am going to be doing will be to the front - I want to put a flat deck that's just-less-than-flush with the rim for flats casting. But, since the floorboard of the boat was rotted (the plywood), I have to replace that. Once I get that done, the glassing will go over that and over the deck that I want to put in. 

Basically, the gutwork wont change - if it does, that's out of my area of comfortable expertise, so I may have to wave off. And/or find someone to give me some tutelage before I go sinking myself. This IS a structural mod, but only inasmuch as it changes the look/dimensions of what is already there. I know that I DON'T know enough to go changing the major purpose or integrity of the boat.

By the way - it's a Randall Craft - made in Pensacola


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

I sank a Randall craft by the Lexington about 35 years ago. Not actually sink but the transom filled with water flipping the boat upside down. The Coast Guard dragged the boat up the side of the wall once it was dragged to it by one of their boats.

Anyway, for the fiberglass work first do allot of reading and studying on the application you are going to use or need. Let someone else look at the stringer and "bones" before you decide to replace the deck. Replacing and changing the deck is not that hard but can be expensive. I would use epoxy resin only. Read and study..!!! This way you will at least get an idea of what it takes and you will understand what someone else is talking about when they give ideas to you.


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## jasoncooperpcola (Jan 2, 2008)

The West System book i have covers a whole lot more than laminating. :thumbup:


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## collinscraft2 (Sep 11, 2009)

Fiberglass repair is a hard task for a novice. It is very dependant on the weather, what worked good one day may be to much or to little the next. And with the price of resin these days, you could be tossing out a fair amount of money. I have built boats and repaired a fare share of small boats to 45' Carver's. Patients and lots of sandpaper. But, a boat you did yourself is a great reward for all the hard work and itching you put in.


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## collinscraft2 (Sep 11, 2009)

Also, Randall craft was built by my Dad's best freind Earny Ard and his son Randy. Dad and Earny built Collinscraft back in the 70's and 80's. Towards the end of Randall Craft he had a habit of using his scrap plywood in the floors instead of whole pieces, so take a close look at the floor and stringers.


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks for that heads up, CC. The boat is at my old man's house right now while I'm traveling for work. He's going to be finishing the floorboard clean out this week and taking a look at the stringers. If they are sub par or too damaged to do anything with, we'll scrap the project. It isn't worth the time and effort for customization and reworking if it's going to have worthless guts.


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Update to the update - A lot has gone on in a month and a half. Dad and I have kicked around the idea of getting an offshore boat (like we have many times), but he seems serious about looking and about keeping my wallet out of it. I've also been doing a lot of reading and looking around the forums and it seems like there are a lot of guys (Shark, Patriot) that know their stuff when it comes to boat building. So, I decided to go out and take some pics of the old randallcraft today to see what the folks around here think.























































Obviously these pictures are...saturated. It rained like all hell the last few days and the plug hole in the back of the boat was jammed up with leaves. I let it run out as I was taking pictures. If anyone has observations or suggestions, please let me know. If my old man is going to take the plunge on an offshore rig, then I can dedicate some time to this if it's worth saving. I'd love to have an old-school microskiff. 

-R.


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Bump for the update


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## 60hertz (Oct 1, 2007)

I would recommend that you check out the forums on the microskiff.com web site. There are a lot of rebuild projects on there. It can be a rough crowd on there though...


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## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

Go for it that's the only way to learn. No doubt that boat was made from poleyester resin. It's cheaper than epoxy and when done correctly will be as good make sure you grind ALL tho surfaces off where you are re glassing to remove the weathered old glass. I built a 40 foot boat in my yard from the hull up and it's still floating. Be prepared to do a lot of itching. Do a couple tests with small things like a seat covering with the resin until you learn the cure rate of the glass. Get a good 4 inch side grinder and plenty of discs. Don't expect it to look like a professional job. Good luck can't wait to see the results.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Types of Fiberglass:

http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16723&SearchTerms=types,of,fiberglass


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks for the replies, guys. This clunker will probably make it's way to my house in the next couple of days for an updated clean out and whatnot. Here's my first question - in the 3rd and 6th picture, you get a good view of the boat's interior sidewalls. I don't know if you can tell, but inside of the resin/fiberglass (thanks Shark) is plywood that looks very, very rotted. I was considering cutting all the way up to that lip to get the plywood out. 
a) Is that wise? &
b) What would I replace it with once I do that?

-R.


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

First thing is to get it cleaned out and DRY..! There will be wood encapsulated inside the fiberglass. Assume all of it is rotten and will have to be removed. You will probably end of with the fiberglass "shell" with exception of the fully fiberglassed stringers.


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

PM Answered.

Looked at pictures.....That rig may be too far gone. It's not a collectible and you will spend thousands bringing it back to a somewhate reasonable state of seaworthiness and cosmetic appeal. 

Better boats out there for short money.


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## BuckWild (Oct 2, 2007)

I say build it back up. For a couple grand you will have a nice skiff and it's a rewarding project when its finished. Just start with small batches of resin to see how it wets out different material. I'm not a pro, but I get really nice results with my work. Read all you can about resins/cloths and such, then just go with it. You can overload on material, and nothing beats some hands on experience. You won't find that online. If you can, find someone that can oversee your project maybe for a small fee. Theres nothing like customising something to your likeing. That skiff does not have to be super fancy, just gut it out and rebuild it. You can do plywood, but the chances are you will be doing it again in 10 years. Wood is ok if everything is perfect, but there's always the possibility of water intrusion, and it will rot if this happens. I'd rather build with composites and feel safer about it. It will cost a bit more in the beginning, but it will not rot. there's other factors to consider, but this is enough for that boat. Get ready for lots of grinding and sanding  I have a current skiff rebuild, that I am hacking away at in my free time. I need to start a thread on it soon, I just need to find the time.


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## jasoncooperpcola (Jan 2, 2008)

X-Shark said:


> Types of Fiberglass:
> 
> http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16723&SearchTerms=types,of,fiberglass


Thanks for the link X-Shark!! :thumbup:


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## guam_bomb80 (Nov 17, 2010)

I agree with Patriot that this rig may be too far gone, but... You will have the satisfaction of rebuilding the boat with your dad and making fine memmories. However, dont expect it to be only a couple of grand to rebuild. Many projects after completion have easily doubled or trippled the beginning estimates. I know first hand how fast money gets thrown into a boat, and in no time you begin to wonder if it was worth putting money into at all. If you do decide to rebuild it, read about the repairs you plan to do, spare no expence doing it right, TAKE YOUR TIME, and enjoy the fine times with your dad!!! Good luck!


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Quick, short update on this - I went out today with a break in the weather and started the cleaning process - getting the leaves and twigs and nonsense out of the boat. Dad and I figured since all the wood in the boat is pretty much shot (as is the foam) that we'll gut the thing and basically start from the hull up. I cleaned up the bottom with the fear that it was going to be bad, but it's solid as a rock. I tap-tested a lot of the hull and even got in and out of it with no problems. I was able to fish out a lot of the debris and I pulled out a bunch of the foam....then I broke a power tool trying to cut the bottom out. That'll be not-cheap to replace. 

Anyway - more pics to come soon. If anyone has a suggestion as to what kind of tool (and blade) to use in order to cut the flooring out of this thing, it'd be appreciated. Thanks!

-R.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Someone QUICK! Unplug his saw. A person that dosn't have a clue of how it will go back together.....BEFORE you cut it, is very dangerous and creates 3 times more work for themselves.

PM / Call me and I'll give you some hints to help get you past that.


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## collinscraft2 (Sep 11, 2009)

it is a poly resin. That hull is made off of the original 1973 Collins Craft mold. It's nice and straight. Make sure that after the old floor is out and before the new stringers are laid that you run a string line down the middle to insure it is not twisted at all, if it is, it will never run true. Also it was rated for a 35hp, but we had one with a tiller controlled 50hp merc on ours. Anything bigger than 25 works really well. I have 2 molds for pedistal seats if you would like to use them to change from the bench seat set up.You are welcome to them. Good luck and I hope it turns out killer!


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## murfpcola (Aug 28, 2012)

I have a book called Fiberglass Boat Repairs Illustrated by Roger Marshall. Its 185 pages. I found it very interesting. Itstarts with how boats are built all the way to sanding and painting. It goes over materials, tools, jigs and molds plus much more. The author does many repairs in it such as replacing transom, repairing a whole in a hull due to a hurricane and fixing soft spots in cored hulls; all with color photos. I think it was about 40 bucks but well worth it in my opinion. Of course the only way to learn is to try it yourself. Talk to lots of people for advice and go for it. A fiberglass guy told me that there is nothing I can do that a grinder wont undo. Your project will probably cost more than most people think it is worth, but you will learn alot and if you keep the boat for a long time and enjoy it, it is well worth doing. Good Luck!


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## GWally (May 16, 2009)

*Been there and it is worth it*

It is not as bad as it looks . I have spent parts of the last 3 years working on an old Sea Ray. I had to rebuild the forecabin overhead (foredeck) from the inside out. Took a lot of learning and sweat but, now it solid as a rock. I found some great suppliers with products that match the specs of the high dollar stuff for 1/3 the price plus a "Thixotropic" mix which allowed me to redo the overhead from the inside without it dripping on me. I used nothing but epoxy but, you can get polyester resin much cheaper. Not sure how to a pm work but, I have some contacts who are extremely knowledgeable in the "composite" world, have great products and great prices. In addition to the foredeck, my transom was inhabited by termites thanks to the cleverly designed Searay "rain gutters" that kept a good supply of moisture present on the inside to keep those termites happy. Good thing was, they made it easier to "chip" off the cheap plywood used in the transom and get down to the fiberglass so I could rebuild.
Shoot me a pm if you'd like more info.
Here are some before shots.


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## Ringo Redux (Jul 7, 2010)

Hey guys -

After a long while and speaking to my boat builder, we have progress. By the time this thing is over, and for an extremely reasonable price, I'll have a custom flyfisher. Here are two updated shots.



















All the cutting is done and the design was sketched today. Builder found termites living in the foam of the boat. That was neat. But, hull is 100% and he's excited about the idea I have. More to come in time.


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## pappastratos (Oct 9, 2007)

Looks like it cut out clean. I was going to tell you to skip the boat, but looking like something! I have seen people buy rotted bass boats, work on them for 2+ years, $3K in material, where I would find nice bass boat hulls for $1500. I have repaired a few boats, 1 bass boat I brought back from the dead. One thing I STRONGLY suggest; gelcoat the boat when finished. This other stuff like awlgrip, imron, just does not hold up. That is why all boats orginally have gelcoat on them. It is not hard to do.


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