# grady rebuild



## toro (Oct 1, 2007)

finally got everything ground down :hotsunon the grady ready to start fiberglass here some pics


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

What core material for the transom?


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## toro (Oct 1, 2007)

I've decided to use 2 layers of 3/4 inch marine plywood laminated together and then incased in fiberglass b/c of budget would not allow me to buy a 9'x5' peice of coosa. With the price of coosa it would of been my entire budget going to just one peice of core. I had a freind of mine from G&S yacht builders from over in newport come and give me direction on how to make a better, stronger yet cheaper transom rebuild. for the money it was going to cost me in coosa I can buy all the materials (except paint) to rebuild and get it ready to paint before the cold gets here.

personally I wish I could have went with coosa but after talking to Jarrod I feel more secure in the plywood construction than with the coosa anyway. the boat will be kept in my barn so there will be little weather to deal with and he showed me the tricks of the trade that they use when building million dollar sportfishers w/ plywood


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

10-4 Merridith Lumber stock's 3/4in A-B Fir marine Ply. They also are the cheapest on the Gulf Coast. I've had a guy come from Miss. to buy from them.



The also stock 3/8in and 1/2in.


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## David Ridenour (Sep 28, 2007)

Looks like quite a project. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress.


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## Zander (Oct 22, 2007)

Thats a lot of tough work and sweat


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## pappastratos (Oct 9, 2007)

How is the project coming ? I am looking at a Hurricane damaged Robalo 2120, moderate fiberglass damage. I have repaired 2 damaged bass boats, one I brought back from the dead !!!


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## toro (Oct 1, 2007)

here is some pics of the progress the structure is finished


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## pappastratos (Oct 9, 2007)

Looking good ! are you going to put a bracket on it ?


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## bamafan (Oct 15, 2007)

looking good,


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## sailmaker (Dec 10, 2007)

Not bad at all, and I used to build boats and have been doing glass repair for 39 years. Please tell me that you used more than just mat as far as the glass goes.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

I hope so? There are is so much better stuff to use than just bulking up mat.



For example we use 4 lays of 1808 a lot of times.



1] 1808 45/45

2] 1808 0/90

3]1808 45/45

4] 1808 0/90



And no mat.



The 08 = 3/4oz mat stiched to the biaxle.


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## toro (Oct 1, 2007)

I only used 2.0 mat and 20 gallons of resin. It seems extremely strong to me and don't for see any problems but won't know until I water test it. I am a builder by trade and like to think that I have enough common sense to make it what it should be. I have actually just primed the hull and am fixing to paint it this weekend. I also go and pick the bracket up this weekend:hoppingmad


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Does that mean you used 2 layers of 2oz mat, or what? 



20gal's of resign seems way to much, but mat takes a lot of resign. This also makes for a heavy weight laminate. 

People think that the resign is what makes a laminate strong and use a lot of it. This could not be farther from the truth.



A laminate that is 50% weight of glass and 50% weight by resign is a very good laminate. that is very hard to achieve with a hand laid laminate.



By the way, mat is measured by the sqft by weight. All other glass is measured by the sq yd by weight.



Example of a yd of 1808: 18oz + 6.75oz for the mat that is stitched to it [9sqft in a yard] = 24.75oz per sqyd.



The 08 in 1808 is 3/4oz mat. [Yes i know it is not listed as 1875] That's just the way it is in the industry standard.





The products that I listed above are much, much stronger than just plain mat.


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## toro (Oct 1, 2007)

no I used 8 layers on outer skin with 12 oz biaxial on last set of everything used 4 layers on inner core and made it caped off with 5 layers interlocking into all the glass from the stringers to the wash well . I used an entire roll ( 90 yds)of 2 oz long stranded mat I bought from advanced plasticsand about 20 yards of 12 oz biaxial. This is not typical but my friend from G&S yachts helped and advised, me he did say that what you are saying was an option but being away from the coast right know I have this material at a low cost and readily available.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

I see your making progress with fairing it all out. 



Those lines where the bump rail goes need some more work and can be a pain, but the extra work will pay off in a much cleaner looking boat.



Just a note about pix's posted on a forum page.



The pix's hide a lot. IE: They hide rough work and the true look of Super clean work too.



If you can see defects in forum posted pix's the work is real rough. 



That is what I have found as long as I've been hanging around different forums.



I'm not knocking it, I'm just saying it needs more work.


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## hebegb (Oct 6, 2007)

boy that looks like fun!



check this out too!!



http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=591219&page=5


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## Sepulga (Oct 2, 2007)

Question....... Why not use pressure treated plywood rather than marine grade fir to build the transom. Just seems to me that the PT plywood would last longer.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

hebegb That's belongs to my buddy Eddie Ring aka Ringleader. in the first pix's posted they were taken in my driveway when we removed the bracket that was full of foam.  and about 100 extra pounds of water.



This is actually the official site where the build is being posted.

http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9592



Eddie owns Classic Mako. com



The X-Shark sitting in it's shed in the background.
























Sepulga because it is Pine plywood, heavier than Fir. It is pressure treated and that does not condone a good bond with resigns.



The trick is not to allow water to get to the core. Most of the problem comes from people working on the boat and not taking steps to insure that the spot is totally sealed. IE Operator Error!


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## hebegb (Oct 6, 2007)

x-shark....what he is doing is REMARKABLE!

guy must have the patience of a saint and a bit of the $$ :bowdown


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

It's touching to the tune of $80K now.  The paint job is $20K.


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## sailmaker (Dec 10, 2007)

What X-Shark says. I rarely use anything but 1808 or 1708 in my repairs and building. Once you get it close to saturated it's also very easy to squeegee off any excess resin, which has been said, just adds weight, lessens impact resistance and makes delamination from the former more likely. Both are very easy to lay on and around complex shapes with just a little practice and some thinking. Laminates don't have to be thick and/or heavy to be strong. That just costs you $$$ on the front end and $$$$ on the back end [depending on how long you own the boat] in gas!



Nice job though.


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## DeepScreams (Oct 6, 2007)

I have a fiberglass combo dual motor / swim platform that would look good on that project.


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## toro (Oct 1, 2007)

here are some pics of the progress over the past few weeks














































next will be the inside and the engine bracket hopefully done in the next to weeks. 

by the end of feb. I am trying to find some motors to finish the hard part up but still have not found any. I have been talking to jim at northwest florida rebuildabout some 1999 200 yami's but not for sure what I am going to do


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## Rammer Jammer (Oct 1, 2007)

Looks great - keep the pics coming. Ireally enjoy these kind of threads!


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## parrothead (Oct 1, 2007)

Nice job!!!!!!!! :clap:clap:clap When we did my boat, it looked like Stevie Wonder did it.:banghead:banghead:banghead Please keep the pictures coming.

Scott


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