# Floating boat trailer



## xl_bandit (Aug 30, 2009)

Im a novice at boating so dont bash me to hard... haha, So I took the boat out today and launched easy, boat ran great.. good day so far... and going to load the boat, i back the trailer into the water, water about halfway up tha bunk, not to far in. go jump into the boat to drive it in and the trailer is floating... wtf.. so park tha boat, back to tha truck pull it out farther.. still floats... so now not enough trailer into the water to power the boat on. made for a long time time between winching and backing the truck up...

Anybody else have this issue and came help me out id appreciate it

24ft cuddy cabin with 200yama, dual axel aluminum I beam trailer


----------



## Starlifter (Feb 24, 2011)

You must be joking around, right??


----------



## jmunoz (Jan 11, 2012)

Starlifter said:


> You must be joking around, right??


Hahahah lol this should be good


----------



## mulletmeat (Apr 12, 2009)

let some air out the tire


----------



## xl_bandit (Aug 30, 2009)

nope floats... apparently i am not the only person that has this issue.. check google


----------



## jmunoz (Jan 11, 2012)

Isnt some trailers made to do that


----------



## FLfishR (Oct 3, 2007)

That is the major problem with aluminum trailers.


----------



## xl_bandit (Aug 30, 2009)

mulletmeat said:


> let some air out the tire


Id have to reinflate before getting back on the road, cause i have them set at 50psi now


----------



## xl_bandit (Aug 30, 2009)

I do have aluminum wheels not galvanized. Think if i got some galvanized wheels it would make a difference?


----------



## mulletmeat (Apr 12, 2009)

tie a sinker to it


----------



## CCC (Sep 3, 2008)

That usually happens when the air gets stale in the tires, deflate and reinflate with fresh air. :thumbup:


----------



## DTFuqua (Jan 30, 2012)

Is the trailer made of closed in tube steel (or aluminum)or open faced channel? Maybe you could get a hunk of iron and hang temporarily off the back of the trailer when needed to load your boat and throw in the back of your vehicle to go down the road. May not be a good idea depending on how much weight you would need to keep the trailer wheels planted on the bottom.


----------



## Hydro Therapy 2 (Sep 11, 2008)

Kinda like this fella


----------



## Hydro Therapy 2 (Sep 11, 2008)

My trailer is a 19ft and the boat is 17ft, I have a little bit bigger trailer so I don't have to get as close to the water with my truck. My trailer floats too (aluminum) but I have found the the right spot where I can back the trailer just far enough and be able to power the boat up on all the way.


This guy in the pictures has the same trouble with his aluminum trailer, he was in way to deep and the whole thing drifted over blocking the ramp. 

You'll have to get the feel for what will be the winning combination to loading your boat with the trailer tring to float out of position.


----------



## welldoya (Oct 5, 2007)

Sell the boat and put an outboard on the trailer.


----------



## CCC (Sep 3, 2008)

LMAO welldoya


----------



## Hydro Therapy 2 (Sep 11, 2008)

welldoya said:


> Sell the boat and put an outboard on the trailer.


They won't accept the trailer tag as boat registration and there's noplace for the fuel tank to stay in place..but we have tried it.:thumbup:


----------



## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

Here you go bolt one or more of these to the rear of the trailer. They are Zincs weigh 30 lbs each and are 12"X6"X1" thick. Bet it would take no more than two to sink it. I have 6 left over from a zinc change years ago. However many you need to sink the trailer $20.


----------



## DTFuqua (Jan 30, 2012)

sealark said:


> Here you go bolt one or more of these to the rear of the trailer. They are Zincs weigh 30 lbs each and are 12"X6"X1" thick. Bet it would take no more than two to sink it. I have 6 left over from a zinc change years ago. However many you need to sink the trailer $20.


That sounds like the right tool for the job. Maybe?:thumbsup:


----------



## Snagged Line (Sep 30, 2007)

I saw a trailer with a 6" Diameter X width of trailer peice of PVC with caps on both ends mounted from side to side positioned just behind the fenders on the underside of the trailer frame. I asked the owner if that was where he stored his sails, and He replied that it was full of concrete to keep the trailer from floating at the launch.


----------



## DragonSlayer (Nov 2, 2007)

Is air getting caught under the fenders? My trailer is ichannel alum and single axle, it dont float.


----------



## xl_bandit (Aug 30, 2009)

It is an I beam aluminum trailer, there is box channel on the ends of the fenders. I am gonna drill some holes in that and see what happens. I am still wondering if the galvanized wheels would help any? I have aluminum wheels now


----------



## 20simmons sea skiff (Aug 20, 2010)

i have a aluminan trailer for my 20 simmons sea skiff, my trailer at times also floats, if it gets deep, like a cork, only has 1 axle, you are not alone


----------



## 20simmons sea skiff (Aug 20, 2010)

probally just air in tires


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

xl_bandit said:


> It is an I beam aluminum trailer, there is box channel on the ends of the fenders. I am gonna drill some holes in that and see what happens. I am still wondering if the galvanized wheels would help any? I have aluminum wheels now


Truely amazing! 90% of the posts here are full of CRAP and don't have a clue.

A light weight trailer floating is NOT a uncommon problem and is a PITA.

Don't change the wheels...You need to bolt weight to the trailer frame.

If you need help with this contact me.


----------



## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

Bandit,
xshark always gives sound advice I follow most of his threads and his advice has never let me down.

Sent from samsung Galaxy note using Forum Runner


----------



## Just_Ducky (Sep 19, 2008)

Add some weight to the trailer. Sand bags maybe and take off when the boat is out of the water.


----------



## xl_bandit (Aug 30, 2009)

Yea i figured i would get alot of odd comments, Its always funny as long as it dont affect them. So what would you recommend? I was thinking about the sandbags. I kinda dont want permanant weight

It is not bad if I have someone driving the boat or backing in the trailer, i could probley load real quick and be okay, its the prolonged length of time the trailer is in the water.

Thanks for the help

QUOTE=X-Shark;920067]Truely amazing! 90% of the posts here are full of CRAP and don't have a clue.

A light weight trailer floating is NOT a uncommon problem and is a PITA.

Don't change the wheels...You need to bolt weight to the trailer frame.

If you need help with this contact me.[/QUOTE]


----------



## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

The cheapest would be sandbags, not quite full so that they can be draped over the trailer frame rails and will stay there without being tied down.
Then just sling them back into truck or a trailer mounted tray on front of trailer.

Sealark has the best long term solution. But you might have to position those weights above the axle or forward. Depending on the trailer balance, you might get trailer sway if you add them to the very end of trailer.


----------



## screwballl (Feb 1, 2011)

if you do not want permanent weights, just keep 2 sandbags on the back of the tow vehicle, and tie them to the back of the empty trailer before backing in.

Or else weld a post somewhere towards the back sticking out 4-6" and use an old 45 lb weight (or two) from an old discarded weight lifting set


----------



## lsucole (May 7, 2009)

I would work on the "catching air" theory first. A couple of holes drilled into the top any tube channels or cross members. The idea that your fenders might be trapping some air should be looked at as well. It probably wouldn't take that much weight to solve the problem if the air theory doesn't work. The pvc tubes filled with concrete is a good idea. They coud be mounted and attached to the inside of the trailer frame and be out if sight.


----------



## kandv2000 (May 10, 2012)

I would like the "stale air" guy to explain where he pulled that from.


----------



## jhamilton226 (Oct 1, 2010)

I would think the simplest fix would be if it's enclosed tubular aluminum just drill some holes across the top and bottom of the trailer to allow water to fill and drain as you back in and pull out...a few gallons of sea water will probably add the extra weight you need, it's free, and always there


----------



## TURTLE (May 22, 2008)

*After reading:blink: this I went to look at my trailer and have to ask, when it's floating can't you drive your boat onto the trailer anyway? I could hit mine straight on and the v hull would hit the rear roller and I assume it would push the trailer down as I drove up on it. This is a theory , I have not had the problem.*


----------



## drifterfisher (Oct 9, 2009)

Bolt on the zinc weights,or add water to your tires,plus some antifreeze.


----------



## K-Bill (May 14, 2009)

kandv2000 said:


> I would like the "stale air" guy to explain where he pulled that from.


pretty sure that was sarcasm - hence the little thumbs up smiley guy. water in the tires, however. no emoticon next to that statement. makes me wonder if that was actually a serious suggestion. i feel like it's an easy fix. bolt those zinc tabs onto the trailer. why wouldn't you want permanent weight? and have to deal with this everytime you use the boat...


----------



## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

TURTLE said:


> *After reading:blink: this I went to look at my trailer and have to ask, when it's floating can't you drive your boat onto the trailer anyway? I could hit mine straight on and the v hull would hit the rear roller and I assume it would push the trailer down as I drove up on it. This is a theory , I have not had the problem.*


But if there is any current, once it floats it likely swings away from where you can load the boat onto it.


----------



## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

K-Bill said:


> pretty sure that was sarcasm - hence the little thumbs up smiley guy. water in the tires, however. no emoticon next to that statement. makes me wonder if that was actually a serious suggestion. i feel like it's an easy fix. bolt those zinc tabs onto the trailer. why wouldn't you want permanent weight? and have to deal with this everytime you use the boat...


Water in the tires or allowing water to fill other cavities on the trailer will displace trapped air and hopefully eliminate the balloon effect.
Once under water, any added water is weight neutral.

I would not want water filled tires on a trailer on the interstate though.


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

TURTLE said:


> *After reading:blink: this I went to look at my trailer and have to ask, when it's floating can't you drive your boat onto the trailer anyway? I could hit mine straight on and the v hull would hit the rear roller and I assume it would push the trailer down as I drove up on it. This is a theory , I have not had the problem.*


I agree, but for sure you have never launched at Galvaz or Big Lagoon where the tide rips thru. The trailer would end up under the pier as the water moved it.

If it was "ME"....... I'd start with making a plate mold and pouring up some lead about half the size of a Bible [where it would fit inside the I beam of the trailer frame.

And bolt one on each side out toward the tail end of the frame.


----------



## moontan360 (Dec 16, 2009)

Bolt a piece of steel plate to the back of the trailer. Heck, take the guy up that offered the 30lb plates for $20.....that's a steal, plus it wouldn't look like crap.

Or pick up a fat girl at the bar the night before and have her stand on the trailer as you pull the boat up. After you're loaded up......release her back to the sea.


----------



## jhamilton226 (Oct 1, 2010)

The only reason I could think to not bolt some weight on like Shark and others have suggested is possibly due to hardware issues...stainless hardware on aluminum can oxidize pretty bad if you don't do it right and oil it from time to time...so if that scares you then go with sandbags like previously mentioned, or allow water to flow thru the trailer like beachbum said...easy fix really, just take some time to figure out what's best for your setup!


----------



## jhamilton226 (Oct 1, 2010)

Yeah but then you got the extra strain of the fat chick on your boat motor, and you have to deal with the complaining too..."Its too hot", "I'm hungry", "are we done yet", blah blah blah...I'd rather just carry a sack of concrete on my back all day! lol


----------



## K-Bill (May 14, 2009)

johnsonbeachbum said:


> Water in the tires or allowing water to fill other cavities on the trailer will displace trapped air and hopefully eliminate the balloon effect.
> Once under water, any added water is weight neutral.
> 
> I would not want water filled tires on a trailer on the interstate though.


yeah i get the physics of it and understand how it could work if you didn't move the trailer but a few feet every so often. i can also understand how things could get real interesting on the highway.


----------



## ncsuwlfpck (Jun 4, 2012)

jhamilton226 said:


> Yeah but then you got the extra strain of the fat chick on your boat motor, and you have to deal with the complaining too..."Its too hot", "I'm hungry", "are we done yet", blah blah blah...I'd rather just carry a sack of concrete on my back all day! lol


 
Hahahaha I busted out laughing at this one....


----------



## DTFuqua (Jan 30, 2012)

The thing about the $30 (?) weights is they are zinc. Which is an anode material and is likely to be what would lose any material due to possible corrosion. The only thing that would likely happen to the metal of the trailer would be the holes drilled to mount the weights. Just my opinion. I could be wrong.


----------



## jhamilton226 (Oct 1, 2010)

haha thanks wolfpack, and welcome to the forum buddy! It gets a lot better too, I've read some funny fricken posts on here...fallen out of my chair more than once I will say


----------



## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

DTFuqua said:


> The thing about the $30 (?) weights is they are zinc. Which is an anode material and is likely to be what would lose any material due to possible corrosion. The only thing that would likely happen to the metal of the trailer would be the holes drilled to mount the weights. Just my opinion. I could be wrong.


Nope, zinc is an anode for steel. Magneasium is for aluminum. However neither would be an anode due to th short time they would be submurged. The weight in the back is what you want...


----------



## TURTLE (May 22, 2008)

X-Shark said:


> I agree, but for sure you have never launched at Galvaz or Big Lagoon where the tide rips thru. The trailer would end up under the pier as the water moved it.
> 
> If it was "ME"....... I'd start with making a plate mold and pouring up some lead about half the size of a Bible [where it would fit inside the I beam of the trailer frame.
> 
> And bolt one on each side out toward the tail end of the frame.


*I've never had the problem or launched anywhere there is current at the launch, just curious. I think the places I launch I could pull it off, but not with interference. Good luck, sounds like weight on the trailer is the way to go.*


----------



## DTFuqua (Jan 30, 2012)

sealark said:


> Nope, zinc is an anode for steel. Magneasium is for aluminum. However neither would be an anode due to th short time they would be submurged. The weight in the back is what you want...


 Thank you I wasn't aware of there being a difference. I have an aluminum jon boat. Do you think with an electric trolling motor I would need a magnesium tab glued somewhere on it?


----------



## hjorgan (Sep 30, 2007)

I like the fat chick solution.


----------



## dallis (Nov 15, 2011)

*Bunks*

Im no expert but I have seen a floating trailer once, it was d 30' double axle. His floated because the bunks were cedar which will float. Mine are PT so they are heavy and dont float. I know it could be expensive but you could switch them out. Just a thought.


----------



## Cannon (Feb 28, 2010)

For the love, just don't let it happen next to Capt. Mickey - (see his current thread)


----------



## Prince Caspian (Jun 13, 2011)

jhamilton226 said:


> Yeah but then you got the extra strain of the fat chick on your boat motor, and you have to deal with the complaining too..."Its too hot", "I'm hungry", "are we done yet", blah blah blah...I'd rather just carry a sack of concrete on my back all day! lol


Not to mention that fat floats too!! Just do like I do and find like six hot, skinny girls. Problems solved... Even if you don't leave the dock.


----------



## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

DTFuqua said:


> Thank you I wasn't aware of there being a difference. I have an aluminum jon boat. Do you think with an electric trolling motor I would need a magnesium tab glued somewhere on it?


No again, If you glued it it would do no good at all it must be in contact with the higher grade metal to become an anode and cause the magnesium anode to deteriorate before the aluminum does.:thumbup:


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> Do you think with an electric trolling motor I would need a magnesium tab glued somewhere on it?



They do not glue them...They bolt on. If you glued it, the glue would insulate the anode from the metal it was trying to protect.

Here is one I added.


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

HaHa Answered at the same time.


----------



## DTFuqua (Jan 30, 2012)

thank you both. So I should bolt an anode made of magnesium on this thing?


----------



## jhamilton226 (Oct 1, 2010)

Prince Caspian said:


> Not to mention that fat floats too!! Just do like I do and find like six hot, skinny girls. Problems solved... Even if you don't leave the dock.


Dude, I want to go "fishing" with you some time! :thumbup:


----------



## sealark (Sep 27, 2007)

DTFuqua said:


> thank you both. So I should bolt an anode made of magnesium on this thing?


Just use the boat you don't need anything if you take the boat out of the water most of the time. But yes a magnesiam anode is what you would use with aluminum.


----------



## DTFuqua (Jan 30, 2012)

sealark said:


> Just use the boat you don't need anything if you take the boat out of the water most of the time. But yes a magnesiam anode is what you would use with aluminum.


Thank you. I'm new to most things not automotive or computer and that helps me out.


----------

