# Tilt-trim motor?



## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

Ok took the old trim motor off my 225hp Mercury this morning and I'm ready to buy the new trim motor. Question....take my business here in town, if so where? If I go online, what company do I go with? :whistling:
Thx.
WhyMe 
Mako My Dayo


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

Post the engine serial number and I can give you a price on an Arco.


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## cone (Sep 15, 2011)

I had my trim motor go out two years ago. It was on an Yamaha F90. The dealer wanted $600 for a new one. I bought one on line for around $2oo. I took the old one apart. The brushes were stuck in the brush holders. I cleaned it up and I now have a spare! It was an easy fix. I wish I had done it befor I ordered one.
Bob


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## jjam (Dec 9, 2007)

Look here, 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Outboar...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f32b29798



Jimmy


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## Chapman5011 (Mar 7, 2013)

Mine seems to be rusting from the outside. 
I'm probably gonna have to replace next season by the outer appearance.


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

jjam said:


> Look here,
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Outboar...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f32b29798
> 
> 
> ...


I have seen way too many of those cheap chinese no name generic imports fail in months.
Get an Arco and you won't do the same job twice.


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

Gavin...I agree about doing the job right the first time and without the cheap product. Here is the info you requested. We have an Acro store here on the west side of town (pensacola) I should able to get that item there.
WhyMe 
Mako My Dayo


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## The Maintenance Shoppe (Nov 5, 2007)

The Arco # is 6250


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

WhyMe said:


> Ok took the old trim motor off my 225hp Mercury this morning and I'm ready to buy the new trim motor. Question....take my business here in town, if so where? If I go online, what company do I go with? :whistling:
> Thx.
> WhyMe
> Mako My Dayo


I need to replace mine as well. Preventative .... it's still working, but lots of corrosion on the housing ... so, I figure doing it sooner in the yard is better than dealing with it later when I'm out on the water somewhere.

Question: how did you support your motor when you unbolted the starboard side of the bracket to move it aside.


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## Gnwdad (Oct 14, 2007)

Wirelessly posted (Air Force 1)

Arco on Navy Blvd


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

Thanks Gnwdad.
WhyMe 
Mako My Dayo


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## submariner (Oct 2, 2007)

after releasing the hydraulics , I manually lifted the motor and put a board between the motor and clamps. Make sure you use hard wood or metal Heavy. 



AndyS said:


> I need to replace mine as well. Preventative .... it's still working, but lots of corrosion on the housing ... so, I figure doing it sooner in the yard is better than dealing with it later when I'm out on the water somewhere.
> 
> Question: how did you support your motor when you unbolted the starboard side of the bracket to move it aside.


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

Ordered my motor yesterday....can't wait to put it all back together.
I went with Arco (online).
WhyMe 
Mako my Dayo


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

Ya could have just drove down to Navy Blvd and walked in the door.


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

Chapman5011 said:


> Mine seems to be rusting from the outside.
> I'm probably gonna have to replace next season by the outer appearance.


Took mine off last weekend. Rusted on one side. Brushed off some of the rust and a pinhole immediately developed. Nothing but a patch of rust was keeping the water out. 

Sooner is better than later. Got my new trim motor yesterday & hoping to have it all back together soon.


(btw - my trim fluid is red. ATF? Is that what I should use? Gonna take quite a bit since I completely drained the system due to moisture concerns.)



*


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

My motor this afternoon. Too damn hot outside to tackle this project. Early morning for me.
Ill post the result in due time.
WhyMe 
Mako my Dayo


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

X-Shark said:


> Ya could have just drove down to Navy Blvd and walked in the door.


X-Shark...I know, but walk in store price was 234.99 plus tax. Online was 180.00 plus 8.99 shipping. I'm trying to keep my money in my back pocket. 
It's funny the box from Arco says pensacola on too. Lol
I'll saved my money.
WhyMe 
Mako my Dayo


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

I don't blame ya.


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

Well I got up this morning and put the trim motor on before the heat. It fit like a glove and yes it works. Thx to Gavin for the part number..
One less item to fix, one step cloister to Venice.
WhyMe 
Mako My Dayo


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

Looks good 'WhyMe'. I went with one of the cheaper chinese models ... we'll see how long it lasts.

Here's what mine looked like after I started brushing the rust off and noticed a pinhole develop underneath the rust. (_surprisingly the brushes and armature didn't look too bad)_


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

Andys...I'm glad you replaced it with something than that old trim motor.....I take it you got your motor supported? You might need a floor Jack to Jack your engine back up to the right level so you can put your 2 bolts back threw the engine support bracket. It went fast when I got the jack out.
Let me know how it went.
WhyMe 
Mako My Dayo


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

WhyMe said:


> Andys...I'm glad you replaced it with something than that old trim motor.....I take it you got your motor supported? You might need a floor Jack to Jack your engine back up to the right level so you can put your 2 bolts back threw the engine support bracket. It went fast when I got the jack out.
> Let me know how it went.
> WhyMe
> Mako My Dayo


Thanks, I got it back together. 

The screwdriver slot on that nylon manual release screw that releases the pressure isn't looking too hot though, but still serviceable ... just gotta be careful if/when I ever use it again.

(_btw - didn't mean to hijack your thread with my problems)

_


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## WhyMe (Apr 21, 2013)

AndyS..no problem here. Glad your stuff is back together.
WhyMe 
Mako My Dayo


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

The Maintenance Shoppe said:


> I have seen way too many of those cheap chinese no name generic imports fail in months.
> *Get an Arco and you won't do the same job twice.*





AndyS said:


> I need to replace mine as well. Preventative .... it's still working, but lots of corrosion on the housing ... so, I figure doing it sooner in the yard is better than dealing with it later when I'm out on the water somewhere.
> 
> Question: how did you support your motor when you unbolted the starboard side of the bracket to move it aside.



To update an old thread .... 

well, I guess I shoulda listened to '_MaintenanceShop_' ..... that cheap Chinese piece a crap trim motor just went out on me a coupla weeks ago. Got just under a year out of it.

Now let's see if DB Electric will honor their 1 year "unconditional" warranty. Either way looks like I'll be out of the water for a bit and in for a hot job .... thank goodness I have a motorcycle!


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

Okay .... so new trim motor is on. ran it up & down a few times. Then ran it to full up position & now stuck there & won't come back down (trim motor _is_ running.) Well, _that _never happened before. 

I did add a little fluid to the reservoir before operating it .... seemed to be full but not overfull (_can you overfill those things?_) 

Airlocked somehow maybe?

Screw head on that nylon pressure relief valve on the side is chingered up & can't get it to turn. I know I can use some pliers to turn the pressure relief valve if I remove that whole starboard side motor bracket again, but really not looking forward to unbolting that again if I don't have to. Thinking about heating a big screwdriver red hot with a torch & driving it into the head of that screw.

(Merc 175 2 stroke)

Suggestions?


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## RMS (Dec 9, 2008)

Usually low fluid causes the pump to cavitate and air lock in the up position.
Normally you would break the air lock by opening the relief valve, but sometimes after sitting a while (as little as an hour and as much as several days) the airlock will diminish enough to lower the motor.

Occasionally I've been able to overcome the airlock in short order by reversing the pump from up to down in rapid succession.


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

RMS said:


> Usually low fluid causes the pump to cavitate and air lock in the up position.
> Normally you would break the air lock by opening the relief valve, but sometimes after sitting a while (as little as an hour and as much as several days) the airlock will diminish enough to lower the motor.
> 
> Occasionally I've been able to overcome the airlock in short order by reversing the pump from up to down in rapid succession.


Hey, thanks for the info. I've got time so I'll see what I can do with her tomorrow. 

I can't see any mechanical block reason the motor won't come down .... and the trim motor's running, so got to be some kind of hydraulic glitch.
I've not previously been having any problems with the hydraulics_.

(Really, really, not looking forward to having to unbolt that motor mount again.)_


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

So got out & unbolted the motor mount (yet again) this morning in order to access the nylon pressure relieve valve screw with a pair of pliers thus releasing the air-lock ---- or whatever was holding it up.

Anybody out there got one of these laying on the shelf .... new or used in good-conditon?


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## AndyS (Nov 22, 2011)

Update: Problem solved with trim not working with the new motor - ya gotta slip the O-Ring on the new motor base prior to install rather than placing it down in the groove in the pump housing. _(Duh! I knew that.  It's not like I haven't put on before.)
_
Guess I'll save putting a new pressure relief valve in for another day


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