# Yes you can put a .920 "bull" barrel on a factory Ruger 10/22 stock



## Mikelkey

Okay, not a post on how to do it. Just saying it can be done with about 2 hours of elbow grease. Using various grits (I started with 220, mainly used 80) and different sizes of deep sockets (ended up with 3/4" for the final), I finally got the bull barrel in and free-floating on my factory stock. Sorry about the clutter in the background...Christmas.

The first pic shows the final job after the stain and finish.

Second shows that (with careful work) the barrel can free-float just fine.

The third is the final product.

I still haven't decided whether I should take the piece of wood used for the barrel ring off. What do y'all think?


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## John B.

pretty work sir.


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## MrFish

Looks good.


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## Mikelkey

Thanks! Had half a day off of work. Time well spent.


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## Gravity3694

I took the barrel ring on mine off. I didn't notice any change in accuracy. I've shot 10/22s with and without the ring in Appleseed events and I really don't see a difference. Even at long ranges I don't see a change. 

Allegedly the barrel band tightens the barrel harmonics, but I've always been a fan of just free floating the barrel to eliminate any potential POI shifts from something coming in contact with the stock.


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## daniel9829

:thumbup: Looks good what did you use to enlarge the barrel channel? If you dont mind me asking. I have several wooden stocks that I have built different 10/22 builds.


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## midlif1

Boy, you sure did a great job with that stock stock! You sure should have noticeable improvement over the stock barrel. I see your dilemma about the now superfluous nub. As good as you did on floating that barrel I’m sure you will do a great job on this next step Please post a final picture. You have my curiosity up. 
Thanks,
Mark


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## Mikelkey

daniel9829 said:


> :thumbup: Looks good what did you use to enlarge the barrel channel? If you dont mind me asking. I have several wooden stocks that I have built different 10/22 builds.


Thanks. I wrapped sand paper around a deep socket and started going to town on the channel. 3/4" socket seemed to be just right for mine.


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## Mikelkey

midlif1 said:


> Boy, you sure did a great job with that stock stock! You sure should have noticeable improvement over the stock barrel. I see your dilemma about the now superfluous nub. As good as you did on floating that barrel I’m sure you will do a great job on this next step Please post a final picture. You have my curiosity up.
> Thanks,
> Mark


Thanks Mark. I'm thinking I might make a cap to fit over this nub that would sit flush with the rest of the stock. Don't know yet, but will def. post pics when done.


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## Jason

Gotta love the bull barrel look!!!! good work!!!!:thumbup:

Anyone need a stock-stock fer the regular barrel, let me know! got a gooden fer $25 ifin you want it!:thumbsup:


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## GoneCoastal

Did you chuck sandpaper wrapped socket and 1/4" extension in a drill? That should go pretty quick.
May could blend in the end of the forearm with the rest of the stock, may would look better than just chopping it off. Or make a custom end cap kinda like a Rem BDL.


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## Mikelkey

Thanks for the input GC. I'm one step ahead of ya on the Rem type end cap. Will post pics if I can pull this off to my liking. Everything so far is being done by hand = a lot of time. I thought about using the socket w/ drill but was concerned about control. A router table and proper bit should make this much easier...wish I had one.


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## SAWMAN

*Deep Sockets*

I have relieved the bbl channel of quite a few rifles. Both wood and plastic/fiberglass/kevlar. I have never done a Ruger 10/22 wood stock.

I simply use a deep socket of the appropriate size. Outsize diameter is what matters. Seems that I settle mostly on the 1/2" drive set. I have tried to turn the socket wrapped with sandpaper and it always seems to "chatter". Slowly back and forth seems always the best. I start with some fairly rough aluminum oxide type paper,then get finer and finer as the channel gets bigger.

I have a 10/22 with a carbon fiber bbl set into a Hogue stock. It is free floated and it shoots great when I sort my ammo with a Neil Jones headspace gauge. ---SAWMAN


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## Mikelkey

You are right, Sawman, should have worded that better. The important thing is to get the outside diameter of the socket the same or slightly larger than the O.D. of the barrel.

I'm about 1/2 way through putting a cap on the end. It's been a little more challenging than widening the barrel channel.


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## FowlHunter13

Awesome job and great idea! Can't wait to see your finished product. I was just given an old 10/22 stock and been thinking of what to do with it. I think you just answered my question. Been wanting to do another 10/22 custom and that would make it "mine" to do all the work like that. Thanks for sharing!


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## Mikelkey

Thanks FH13. There is something intriguing about having a gun that has your own handy work built in.

Going to apply a finish today or tom., need some advice. I've used rub on poly, tung oil, etc. in the past. I need to have a pretty thick finish on there in order to have the cap blend in well with the stock and provide a degree of protection for the cap (i.e. aid in keeping it secure). Any suggestions? Actually thinking of testing a "bar top" type epoxy resin. Just worried it may be too thick. Anyone ever used this with success or should I just grin and bear a multitude of coats and more sanding?


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## FowlHunter13

Since I discovered Min Wax hand rub poly, I haven't used anything else. It takes a little while to get a thick coat of it, but very easy to apply and I couldn't be happier with the results. I have used it on 4 rifle stocks now and love it. I used the satin finish and have gotten many compliments on my handy work.


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## GoneCoastal

TruOil really worked good for a couple of FAL stocks I refinished awhile back. Will fill in imperfections also one drop at a time, let cure add another drop until desired level is attained. Takes awhile but this stock was banged up pretty bad and it turned out slick.


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## SAWMAN

*Also..... IMO*

It is important to relieve the bbl channel large "enough". If you simply are able to slide a dollar bill under the forearm,that is not enough. This does not take under consideration the recoil of the weapon OR more importantly,if the weapon will be rested on a shooting bag or Harris type bipod that is attached to the fwd sling swivel.

For me......I always relieve my bbl channels so that I can slip a piece of silicone sprayed rubber that is .075" thick,all the way back to the recoil lug. The space probably does not need to be quite this "big",but this is just what I have settled on and works for me. 
P.S. I can do a bbl channel but there is no way that I could do an endcap and make it look halfway decient. Waitin' to see yours(and learn).

Good Gun Smithin' --- SAWMAN


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## Mikelkey

> P.S. I can do a bbl channel but there is no way that I could do an endcap and make it look halfway decient. Waitin' to see yours(and learn).
> 
> Good Gun Smithin' --- SAWMAN


Me neither. Least not with the money for materials I'm willing to put in. Thought I had it down pretty good the other night but got frustrated with finishing. Had a rounded end formed up pretty good, put the barrel on and just didn't like the look. Chopped it in half this morning and am just going for the utilitarian look at this point! Oh well.

Here is a pic of how it sits right now. Yes, I removed the stocks finish and stain. I kinda like the look of the natural wood. Still can't figure out how to dress up (halfway decent) the now cut endcap. I left some of it there so I could have more forearm to work with. Any thoughts?


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## Mikelkey

'nother from the front...


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## daniel9829

You might look at using some black plastic lamiate to make a endcap for the stock.


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## SAWMAN

*Hmmmmm ????*

First thought---> wood stain but even if you taped it off good seems it would back flow thru the grain to where you don't want it to be. 

Maybe multiple coats of hand rubbed tungoil but would leave the stock a flat dark color. Have done several M1 carbines in this manner and they come out good after about the 5th coat. 8th - 10th even better.

Stain the whole stock then paint the end black could work but would not look great/super...IMO.

Gotta be someone round here that has done this, or something similar. 

Take a look thru the Brownell's site or Midway USA's gunsmithing catalog. --- SAWMAN


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## Mikelkey

Sorry it took so long to get the final pic up...life. Just chopped of the end and was done with it. Still its main goal, deadly accuracy, was accomplished!


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## drifterfisher

What kind of ammo does it like? Stop by Mikes on 29 and get yourself some S&K Standard Plus,its high($6.99) compared to walmarts stuff,but I think you will notice a difference in the group sizes.
The stock looks good,I did one a few years ago,I used a table saw on the sides and bottom,and a dremel on the right hand grip area,and then used an oak colored stain. Its floating around my closet...


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## Mikelkey

Thanks drifter. I will look into the ammo suggestion. I tried some subsonic target rounds. 10/22 doesn't care for that apparently. It'd cycle the first 7 rounds but not the last three. Since then I've just been using the standard Remington Walmart bricks. Seems to work okay. If you get a chance, post a pic of your 10/22. Sounds interesting and I like seeing other interpretations of what a 10/22 should be.


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## drifterfisher

Here is a sample of what you can do at 100yds.I still have the stock and barrel from that one,I traded the gun off awhile back,in a different configuration.I also have the 22" stainless barrel to. I did cut the blued barrel down to 17" and gained just a touch of accuracy from it.
PM me if ya want to learn how to make it love sub-sonics.The last 3 not cycling sounds like a mag issue,but some bolt work will help to.What kind of trigger are you using?


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## Mikelkey

Nice! That group is what I'm trying to get to and that's one of the sharpest 10/22's I've seen! Mine's still got the factory trigger. Haven't saved up and probably wont for awhile (baby on the way) for a replacement and a little nervous messing with the factory one. I was thinking it was a mag issue at first w/ the sub's, but it cycles fine with any higher velocity rounds so I attributed it to the ammo. I'd def. like to hear your suggestions on this. Got some squirrel/mouse/possum issues but live close enough to neighbors that I'm scared I'd freak 'em out firing the hi-velocity stuff and the pellet gun just ain't cuttin' it!


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## The Pitt

I want this 10/22!


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