# Hot Foot fer trolling motor???



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

I have used hot foot switches on my trolling motors fer the last 2 boats I have had. Fer some reason in the past 2 years I have MELTED 3 of them!! This last one only lasted 3 outings. I use my troller on 4-5 (high) alot due to currents. Each time the sleeving is melting exposing the wires and frying the switch! 

Does anyone else use them, have the same experience? I know the wiring is not marked and I (if I am correct) the main wires coming from the switch do not matter whether they are connected to the neg/pos since it is a switch that just connects the circuit. 

Now I have a 50 amp breaker they connect to also. 

I have 1 wire from the hot foot going to the empty spot on my breaker. The other wire is spliced into the neg wire direct to the troller. Bare w/ me n the drawing....I'm no artist and I definitely have no clue when it comes to wiring!!! All trial and error. :whistling: I used some heavy wiring to connect my batteries so I'm not sure ifin it's pushing too much current fer the hot foot or just me screwing up the wiring....I'm believing it's just me!!!:shifty:


----------



## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

Cause you're running a 48 volt system, cooking the wire. 

Why is the breaker off? What gauge wire from breaker to switch? Still running standard wire to the troller? Is that a Bigfoot switch?

????? And, is your breaker wired to the neg cable like in your drawing??????


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

My attempt at the drawing is exactly how I have it. Not sure the gauge wire, but I have the same gauge connecting the 2 batteries as I have going from the negative side of the battery to the 50 amp breaker. Breaker is off cause I flip it off when the troller isn't in use. I have no clue what those connectors in your picture are?


----------



## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

I just lifted the pic off the web that had the switch in it. these are the Anderson connectors. Apparently, the person who posted wasn't using a "normal" trolling motor quick disconnect.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...FaYh4oIL6Q==&gclid=COTqgYyRl80CFZWMaQodXVoB5A

Still, is your breaker on the neg side???? (hint, hint)


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

I reckon I don't follow???


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Wait a dern minute.....I should hook the positive side to the breaker not the negative? OK looked closer at diagram....I wonder why it works the way I have it wired fer a while???


----------



## Tail Chaser (Jun 22, 2008)

call Ken he aint doin nothing he luvs electricity hes in town too lol
Ill give ya an F for Effort though 48 volts Goodness 
you do give it a good try though
School of Hard Knocks or Hard Shocks


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

kanaka said:


> Cause you're running a 48 volt system, cooking the wire.
> 
> Why is the breaker off? What gauge wire from breaker to switch? Still running standard wire to the troller? Is that a Bigfoot switch?
> 
> ...


Actually the more Volts the less amps and it's Amps that cause the heat...

Also More Volts equals smaller wire needed. Think about Solar systems. They run high volt panels so they can use smaller wire from the panels to the charge controller or inverter.

Another reason them folks overseas like them some 220VAC for everything.

Dang Jason your gonna be a Electronics expert before long. All you got to do is burn up a few more things and bam... You are in!

:notworthy:


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

Tail Chaser said:


> call Ken he aint doin nothing he luvs electricity hes in town too lol
> Ill give ya an F for Effort though 48 volts Goodness
> you do give it a good try though
> School of Hard Knocks or Hard Shocks


Yea I actually talked Jason over the phone how to figure out how many amps a LED Light bar used before deciding on wire gauge. LOL I was impressed he got it right without setting anything un-fire...

Only because I gave him a Fluke Meter that I know like the back of my hand and told him what knobs and buttons to push. :whistling:



.


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

Jason said:


> Wait a dern minute.....I should hook the positive side to the breaker not the negative? OK looked closer at diagram....I wonder why it works the way I have it wired fer a while???



Yes Jason you always Fuse the Pos side...

If you run a shunt you would put that on the Neg side... But Lets now get that advanced for you yet. When I start hooking up my solar system in the cabin you can come help and I will make you understand what we are doing.

:thumbsup:


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

Ok one more post... LOL

Jason??? What made you decide on a 50AMP Ignition Protected DC Breaker???

What is the MAX Amps this trolling motor will pull at 48VDC???

Also Ignition Protected... Think about it. That's made for a surge like starting a motor and not to pop (Trip)... So If you are gunning it and surging amps through this doohickey it may just never trip anyhow... Just thinking out loud. I will shut up now.


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Solar systems ???? Whoa wanna give me a headache? 

OK so when I run the positive side to the breaker, which side does it go from the battery to it? The negative is at the right side so do I need to run it to theft side and replace the right side with the wire coming from the hot foot? And am I correct that the 2 wires from the switch on the hot foot don't matter which one it is, neither are marked?
I'm thinking I need a Goodys powder!


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

Jason said:


> Solar systems ???? Whoa wanna give me a headache?
> 
> OK so when I run the positive side to the breaker, which side does it go from the battery to it? The negative is at the right side so do I need to run it to theft side and replace the right side with the wire coming from the hot foot? And am I correct that the 2 wires from the switch on the hot foot don't matter which one it is, neither are marked?
> I'm thinking I need a Goodys powder!


I think you just gave me a headache reading your question. LOL And I never ever had a headache in my life. :thumbsup:

Yes the battery and to it in series and then to the motor or switch first. How ever you have it.

I need to bring my two clamp on DC Amp meters and we can monitor how many amps is flowing, but in no water it would be less you have no resistance. Maybe put it in a bucket of water...

BTW we bought a new camper paid cash traded in the one we have now... I will text or email you some pics.


.


----------



## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

kendive said:


> Ok one more post... LOL
> 
> Jason??? What made you decide on a 50AMP Ignition Protected DC Breaker???
> 
> ...


If his drawing is accurate, I'm sure he has a 24v trolling motor. Was just pulling his chain about writing 48v unless he's figured out how to get 48v out of 2 12v batteries.

Jason, you have a quick disconnect plug on the troller or is it wired direct? And what are you doing for connectors where you're stepping down the wire size?


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

kanaka said:


> If his drawing is accurate, I'm sure he has a 24v trolling motor. Was just pulling his chain about writing 48v unless he's figured out how to get 48v out of 2 12v batteries.
> 
> Jason, you have a quick disconnect plug on the troller or is it wired direct? And what are you doing for connectors where you're stepping down the wire size?


You are correct. After talking to Jason on the phone it's a 24VDC System...


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Yeah Mark, I was thinking about my golf cart I reckon...... I think after plucking what little hair I have out, talking to Ken and seeing your diagram I "may" have it whooped! We'll see in a day or so when I get a little time and the parts I need to work on it!!!


----------



## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

Here, just in case.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=3566

And heed the "...place circuit breaker as close to the battery...".

If you need short lengths of 6-8 or 10 ga wire let me know.
Plus yer gonna catch hell from X Shark for the copper end on the wire coming off the breaker....


----------



## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> Plus yer gonna catch hell from X Shark for the copper end on the wire coming off the breaker....


LOL 

At the very least... Your gonna have corrosion.... Corrosion causes resistance.... Resistance cause's poor performance and you create another maintenance problem. 


How's that?


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

X-Shark said:


> LOL
> 
> At the very least... Your gonna have corrosion.... Corrosion causes resistance.... Resistance cause's poor performance and you create another maintenance problem.
> 
> ...


I tried to explain that to Jason on the phone... Don't bother it gives him headaches. LOL :whistling:




.


----------



## Jason (Oct 2, 2007)

Hahhaha....got it done! All is good, actually acts like it runs better! We'll see next trip!!! Thanks fer all the replies!!!


----------



## kendive (Sep 9, 2008)

Jason said:


> Hahhaha....got it done! All is good, actually acts like it runs better! We'll see next trip!!! Thanks fer all the replies!!!


Good Job Jason... Stop by tonight while your at work and I will give ya a cookie.

:thumbup:


----------

