# Yamaha 115 v4 trouble



## danjammy (Feb 20, 2011)

Had family in town, so I took a few days off to get on the water. Filled up my tank (for the first time ever- 52 gallons) and put my oil directly into the tank (as always). Boat seemed to miss and sputter and started a higher pitched "knock" and finally died on me in the middle of the bay. Thank you Sea Tow!!!:thumbup:

Is it possible that the gas/oil didn't get mixed good enough and fried my engine? 

Who would you recommend to work on a 92' Yamaha 2-stroke? 

If it is blown, would a 20 year old engine be worth rebuilding? 

The motor has never given me any problems. Just replaced the plugs, cleaned the carburators with Sea Foam and changed the fuel/water seperator. 

HELP!!!!!!! I don't think I can stand not being on the water .


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## Sequoiha (Sep 28, 2007)

looks like the engine has led a pretty good life.. if the rest of the engine is in good shape it would certainly be alot less expensive to fix that one than to purchase another one.. you can get a v4 power head and carbs built in the 3000.00 range, I would be glad to get you set up for a repair,,


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## danjammy (Feb 20, 2011)

*Yamaha 115 v4 rebuild*

Kenny,

What does a rebuild entail? reworking the carbs, seals, etc? Is there a warranty assciated with this work? How long does it take to complete the work? Etc, etc, etc. 

Thanks for your guidance!!!


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

For the $3000.00 price it would be rebuilding the power head to new. All the other necessary repairs and rebuilds needed would more than likely cost extra but they are easy to do.

Coastal Machining in Pensacola did my latest rebuild with top of the line parts. They use a better harder coated piston. Not Wiseco pistons..!


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## Sequoiha (Sep 28, 2007)

actually, the rebuild would include a carb rebuild and a new water pump.. the only difference in the price would be if there are any ruined hard parts, such as the block, or crank, pretty straight forward... usually less than a week.


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

Kenny you are correct. The rebuild carbs and water pump were included but I did that before I received the power head. Now I have extra parts..!


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## DOUBLE "D" & LV (Oct 2, 2007)

Also check the lower unit oil to see if it has metal or water. If the lower unit locked up, then it would stop the engine as well. A lot easier to replace also. That has happened on a few I have worked on.


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## danjammy (Feb 20, 2011)

*Lower unit trouble*



DOUBLE "D" & LV said:


> Also check the lower unit oil to see if it has metal or water. If the lower unit locked up, then it would stop the engine as well. A lot easier to replace also. That has happened on a few I have worked on.


Wouldn't the prop be locked up if the lower unit was shot? My prop spins freely and I just changed the lower unit oil a few weeks ago. 

Thanks for all of the suggestions.


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## murfpcola (Aug 28, 2012)

I think I would pull the plugs and look at them, maybe do a compression test before I start dreading all the worst case stuff. Motor quit but did it lock up? Keep us posted as I have the same engine in a 96 version, Good luck


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## DOUBLE "D" & LV (Oct 2, 2007)

Prop shaft spinning free does not mean the lower is free. The drive shaft bearings could have locked up and the prop would spin free in neutral. when you get to looking at it, do as murfpcola suggests and do a compression check and see if the plugs look all the same or if on has metal on it or is collapsed.


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## 84toyota (Sep 24, 2012)

Hey Danjammy,
Sorry to hear about the problems you're going through with the outboard. I don't mean to sound like a vulture, but if you decide not to rebuild it, I might be interested in the lower unit/prop. I recently acquired an '89 Yamaha 115 v4 that has a jet lower unit on it. I've been looking for a prop lower unit for about 6 months (on the west coast) and haven't found much. It might be a killer to ship it from Florida to California... but if you end up not fixing it, let me know!

Thanks,
Ken


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