# Skiff Rebuild Core questions



## BuckWild (Oct 2, 2007)

I've started a new project, on a boat that I've had since 99'. Its a small skiff 16' x 70" at the widest point with a sharp pointed bow. It only has a 30hp motor for it. The floor was rotten and I never liked the layout, so I gutted the entire thing. It was a basic skiff with a front and back platform and 2 side wells. I am going to build a custom deck cap with a rolled edge(it needs this as water always rolled in), on a mold I have yet to build and will add a few bulkheads in the hull to bond the cap to. There are no stringers as this is a flat bottom skiff, and the floor is bonded directly to the outer hull. I am going to use 1/2 divinycell with a 1.5oz mat/ and a 1708 layup for the floor. 

My questions are, would I be better off to use the 1/2 or 3/4 divinycell for the bulkheads and deck coring, or should I go with nidacore in 1/2 or 3/4 thickness? They both weigh about the same, but I'm not sure which is better for bulkheads/decking. Would the honeycomb be OK for vertical bulkheads? There is a cost saving associated with using the NidaCore, so that is a benefit to using it. I have a sheet and a half of the 1/2 divinycell on hand still, and that is why i plan on using it in the floor area.

I have to recore the transom also. It had 2 sheets of 1/2 plywood that was turning to mush, and with the layup- it was approx 1.5 thick. Do I need to use Coosa board for this, or would 2 layers of 3/4 Divinycell be sufficient for this? Weight is a serious concern for this rebuild, so I'm not sure of the difference here. Theres about a $65 price difference in a sheet of 3/4 div vs. coosa. Eith way, I would need to use 2 layers. The 1 3/8 coosa would be great, but its $370 a sheet. It's actually more expensive materials wise to use the 3/4 coosa as you have to use 2 layers, but I don't need a 4x8 sheet of 1 3/8. I just need to know if the Divinycell would be OK. This layup was going to be a 1.5oz mat with 2 layers of 1708. I can aslo go heavier if needed for the div. If I do need the coosa, If anyone has a piece of 1-1.5" in a 62x20 size for a regular price, let me know. 

Thanks for the help, John

Heres a few pics of the tear down.

































Finally done with grinding


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## lastcast (Oct 12, 2007)

I would send XShark a PM.


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## Spooled (Jan 13, 2012)

Second that on the X-Shark. He will load you down with alot of useful information.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

PM sent....Lot's of ideas rolling thru my head on this one. 

I can't tell if the nose of this boat droops off? That is something I very much dislike for esthetics . The Sheerline should rise slightly to be pleasing to the eye when viewed from a side profile.

As to using Coosa or Kledgecell /Divenacell.

It depends on the density. The highest density I've seen in Kledgecell is 13lb. That is what is in X-Shark's transom in 2in thickness.

Coosa is available in 20lb, 24lb and 26lb density. It was not available when I built X-Shark. It would be what I'd use in the transom. You would be fine with the 20lb density.


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## BuckWild (Oct 2, 2007)

PM replied. The nose does rise a bit during the first few feet. I've been in the idea stage for 6 months, lol. I've gotten to my 3rd draft on the layout and I believe I have the plans the way I'd like to make the ultimate skiff for myself. Frogs, flounder, catfish, ducks and gators beware when I get finished :thumbup:


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