# outboard dies at more then half throttle



## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

TE150SLCEM 1989 evinrude xp tracker 150hp

Hello everyone .
i'm having on issue on the boat where if i try to speed up the
motor shuts down at about half throttle if i keep it below half throttle its fine i can stay there all day but as soon as i try to go further it dies.
here is the catch if i try to throttle past half way and coke it at the key switch 
it advances fine and speeds up and runs great, that is until i slow down below half throttle then i get the same issue where i have to choke it at the key so it doesn't die past half throttle can anyone please give me some things to check ?
or what could possibly be causing my issues
thank you


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## metal11 (Oct 7, 2007)

Carbs need rebuilt.


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## gameaholic (Oct 1, 2007)

carbs.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

I also noticed that when i advance the throttle all the way it doesn't cause the carbs open all the way could this also be the issue ?? At wot they only seem to open 1/4 of the way is this right?


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

thanks for the response about the carbs i just want to make sure that its no something simple before i tear them down
thanks


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## metal11 (Oct 7, 2007)

THe throttle plates should open almost 90 degrees at full throttle if not then you need to check your linkage and cable. I still think your carbs could be the problem. When you push the key in and choke the motor you I believe you are giving the motor a shot of fuel and that is why it runs


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

metal 11 thanks for the heads up on the throttle plates at wot they were hardly open maybe 1/4 of the way to 90 degrees so i think you may have found my problem im going to go through the manual and do the link and sync . i don't think that the throttle plates were allowing enough fuel through to support the need at open throttle any way if this doesn't fix my issue i will bite the bullet and get the carbs rebuilt what is a fair rate for getting them done? 
thanks


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## metal11 (Oct 7, 2007)

Do it yourself. If you have the manual it is a real piece of cake.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

ok thank you im going to go for at im having a hard time getting the sync right for the butteries to open to 90 degrees at wot


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## SLICK75 (Sep 4, 2010)

Before digging into carbs, check the fuel pump. Theyre much cheaper and easier to work on than carbs. Also, check for fuel line for obstructions or possibly a vacuum on the tank.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

Ok thanks slick


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## Sequoiha (Sep 28, 2007)

You could give me a call, I will try to talk you through any adj. You may need to make


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

*Thanks*

Hello Kenny
I've read and heard hundreds of good things about your work 
thank you for offering to help with the adjustments hopefully later this week i can get around to doing it and i will for sure give you a call when i do .
I wish i had the money right now to just take it to ya .
how much would it run me to get all the timing and link and sync done? 
and possibly an inspection of the outboard its self i know its old and can probably die any time so it would be nice to get it checked out to see if its worth putting a little money into it .
let me know so i can set some money aside to get it done 
thank you


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## SLICK75 (Sep 4, 2010)

oxbeast1210 said:


> Hello Kenny
> i know its old and can probably die any time so it would be nice to get it checked out to see if its worth putting a little money into it .
> let me know so i can set some money aside to get it done
> thank you


Shes still in her prime and if it runs now its definitely worth the money to keep it running. This little hiccup youre experiencing right now falls under normal maintenance, not repairs. Fuel lines fail, fuel pumps go bad, and carbs gum up. Thats a boat. A 2009 model can experience those very same things.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

Haha Thanks slick makes me feel better about putting money into her 
and your points are very valid i have seen many new boats not strating and having issues at the dock 

thanks for making me see the light lol guess im finding out thatr people are not kidding when they tell me the acronyms for boats 

:notworthy:


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

Hi I'm back ive replaced most of the easy stuff
Ad the issue isn't as bad but it's still there
Anyway. All I have left Now are the carbs to rebuild
And the the fuel pump. Is there an easy way to tell if 
The fuel pump is working properly? Or should I go straight 
To the carbs?


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## SLICK75 (Sep 4, 2010)

Going only on the assumption that the fuel pump is the same, only bigger, as a 35HP. I say rebuild the fuel pump. Its very easy, just make sure youre prepared to catch the spring when you split it open. You can open it up and take the diaphragm out and hold it up to a light and look for any pin-holes. Me personally, since youre taking it apart anyway, I would just replace it and be done with it. Its just a black piece of rubber and a spring. Just pay attention to how you take it apart. The first couple of times I did it I put it back together wrong and covered the fuel inlet so I had to take it aprt again.

Also, if youre just taking it apart for inspection, be extremely careful if you have to pry it open, its very easy to slip and run a screwdriver through the diaphragm at which point you will HAVE to replace it. Trust me, 50% of my inspections turned out like that LOL.

Carbs I would do last and only because I would recommend taking it to someone for that.


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

Thanks slick my only question is if the 
Vro. Fuel pump has a rebuild kit I've been 
Looking but all I can find is the whole thing 
Thank you


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## SLICK75 (Sep 4, 2010)

oxbeast1210 said:


> Thanks slick my only question is if the
> Vro. Fuel pump has a rebuild kit I've been
> Looking but all I can find is the whole thing
> Thank you


Have you tried local dealers? They may have to order it themselves but they generally go through OMC and such suppliers that only sell those kinds of parts to dealers. Its kind of a way of keeping dealers in business by making you choose to pay for a new part and do it yourself versus paying the same price to a dealer to do the rebuild. Most dealers will still sell you the rebuild kit but it gives them the option at the same time.


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## metal11 (Oct 7, 2007)

If you are going to rebuild a vro pump you may want to take it some where. Those can be a beast and when you figure in the rebuild kit cost against the cost of a new pump you will by new pump. If you have a manual there is a check in it to see if the vro pump is working properly.


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## SLICK75 (Sep 4, 2010)

I missed the vro part earlier, what is a vro pump? Im assuming its not the standard diaphragm and metal plate sandwiched between 2 plastic blocks?


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

i think essentially its the same thing except that it also deals with the oil side of things since i don't premix it does that for me theres been alot of debate over their reliability
im gonna check my manual to see if it contains ive had a hard time finding oem so i have to settle for my seloc  
thanks for the help guys ill keep yall posted


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## oxbeast1210 (Jun 21, 2010)

HEy guys just wanted to give an update on my issue it turns out that the fuel pump had very low pressure and thats why it would idle fine but die when i tried to give it more gas .
thanks everyone for your help especially SLick75 since you told me 
to check the fuel pump saved me alot of trouble and money 
thanks again!


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## SLICK75 (Sep 4, 2010)

No problem man, thats what we are here for.:thumbsup: Im just glad you were able to fix it without pouring a fortune into troubleshooting.


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