# Winterize your motors tonight!!!! or broke blocks tomorrow!!!



## sniper (Oct 3, 2007)

It is going downbelow freezing. Get a gallon of anti freeze into your freash water cooled motors tonight or they may crack the block or pop your freeze plugs.Or put a heater near the motor so it doesnt freeze. Suppose to be like this all week and I would hate to hear about people losing motors for something so simple to prevent. I just did mine and it is COLD out. It is a lot easier to prevent than to fix!!!!


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## CurtyV22 (Sep 30, 2007)

I feel like an idiot asking this, but where do you put it ( i know where to put that:moon)?..I mean the antifreeze:letsdrink



CurtyV


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

The best way is to run anti freeze in instead of water thru the pick up like you do when you flush the motor. I made a tank for the shop just for this purpose. There really isn't another way that I have ever heard to ensure the intire block and manifolds get anti freeze in them.


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## CurtyV22 (Sep 30, 2007)

well damn I dunno how the hell i could manage that....time to get out the blankets!



CurtyV


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

Outboard or Stern Drive, it is a good idea to trim you drives down so water isn't setting in the prop housing. It can freeze and bust the housing.


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## sniper (Oct 3, 2007)

I know nothing aobut outboards but I do a bit about I/O :there should be some wing nuts on your exhaust manifolds if you have an I/O. First thing I do is open these and drain all the water out. Then I close them again. Then I pull the water intake hose. It is the hose that leads from the transome to the motor. I undo the hose clamp and pull it up. I have mine set up with a link in the middle just for this. If you dont. You can cut it somewhere convieniant to get to and always get a coupler later when it warm up and have an access point. I lift the hose up and start filling with antifreeze. you should hear it running through the manifolds and hoses. This takes care of everything except the motor veins. For that your thermostat is your enemy. You can do one of two things. I usualy just pull mine apart, pull the thermostat and put it back together and pour in anti freeze. Or I have heard of heating up the water and pouring it in???? That never made sence to me. It would have to be damn near boiling and poured in to open the thermostat. I am sure I am wrong on a lot of this but I never lost a motor to a freeze. Take any precaustion you can. Enen if it means an electric blanket or a nearby heater. I am no mechanic or an expert but I just would hate for anyone to start off the year with a FUBARed motor.:banghead

oh and ditto on the lower your outdrive so it all drains!!!

**Also think about any freash water holding tanks you have. They will freeze in a polly tank and break it easy. A little salt in that water will help it from freezing cause salt water freezes at a lower temp. (closer to 0)



I just looked at the hour by hour and it looks like the freeze is suppose to set in at about 0500 which is when the sun comes up. Cover your engines in black towels, rags, underwhere or whatever and make sure they get the morning sun and they should be ok. A black tarp would be perfect.


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## Halfmoon (Oct 3, 2007)

Thanks!!! How do you winterize yourself????? Damn its cold!!!:reallycrying


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## BIGRIGZ (Oct 2, 2007)

I drained the water out of the block on my inboard mercruiser by pulling the plug on the side of the block.

BUT, Do I need to ALSO drain water out of the MANIFOLDS?????????!!!!


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## Telum Pisces (Sep 27, 2007)

> *BIGRIGZ (1/2/2008)*I drained the water out of the block on my inboard mercruiser by pulling the plug on the side of the block.
> 
> BUT, Do I need to ALSO drain water out of the MANIFOLDS?????????!!!!


Yes!!! You do not want any water in there at all. When I used to own an I/O, I put a small desk lamp (incandescent type)in the engine compartment overnight on the cold nights to keep it above freezing in there.


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

> *BIGRIGZ (1/2/2008)*I drained the water out of the block on my inboard mercruiser by pulling the plug on the side of the block.
> 
> BUT, Do I need to ALSO drain water out of the MANIFOLDS?????????!!!!


Yes...Drain the exhaust/risers also. Should be a "T" on the hose coming out of the bottom of the manifold, if not remove the hose and let drain.

I remove both (V-8) engine petcocks and "T" valves on the exhaust manifolds.


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## H2OMARK (Oct 2, 2007)

Drain the manifolds and block. 4.3 liters have 4 plugs in all. Two in the manifolds and one on each side of the block. Then take the 4 hoses loose on the top front of the motor and pour in about a half gallon of antifreeze in each. Hook the hoses back up. This also protects the internals from corrosion.


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## David Ridenour (Sep 28, 2007)

Probaby not too practical or necessary for you guys but here goes.I used to fish year round with my I\O and I didn't want to have to go through all the winterizing each time I came home. Igot a huge tub and filled it withan antifreeze mixture and ran the motor awhile to circulate it through the motor.


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## BIGRIGZ (Oct 2, 2007)

> *H2OMARK (1/2/2008)*Drain the manifolds and block. 4.3 liters have 4 plugs in all. Two in the manifolds and one on each side of the block. Then take the 4 hoses loose on the top front of the motor and pour in about a half gallon of antifreeze in each. Hook the hoses back up. This also protects the internals from corrosion.


Do you mean 1/2 gallon in each engine or in each of those 4 hoses? 

I have a 350cid engine, I see the 4 hoses on the top/front. (2 go to manifolds and 2 go to the engine)


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## mpmorr (Oct 3, 2007)

> *Halfmoon (1/2/2008)*Thanks!!! How do you winterize yourself????? Damn its cold!!!:reallycrying


I prefer Vodka but it has been known to make me cranky. Seriously, the easiest way to do it is the way David said. It is quick and easy and works like a charm. Good luck guys.


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

*Use a 5 gallon bucket as a reservoir and a fitting. Cost less then $10.00 to make.*

*Or you can install one of these in the waterline coming off of the the through transom tube.*


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## Flounderpounder (Oct 3, 2007)

When I lived up north, I was running a straight inboard (ski boat). I knew a few guys who used a heater/dipstick, that you just plugged in w/an extension cord It heated up the oil, of course). I found a similar device that replaced a freeze plug. It had a heating element, which also plugged in. It heated up the water inside the block. I used it on those end of or beginning of the season cold fronts. Pretty sure I got it at NAPA. Worked great! I'd beREAL careful about using a space heater or lightbulb setup. Many people do with no problem, but know of one instance (SkiWatch Estates in Milton) where the boat caught fire, burned down the house, and killed their son!


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## Cuz (Oct 1, 2007)

> *Halfmoon (1/2/2008)*Thanks!!! How do you winterize yourself????? Damn its cold!!!:reallycrying


Crown on the Rocks with a twist of lime!


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

> *Flounderpounder (1/2/2008)*When I lived up north, I was running a straight inboard (ski boat). I knew a few guys who used a heater/dipstick, that you just plugged in w/an extension cord It heated up the oil, of course). I found a similar device that replaced a freeze plug. It had a heating element, which also plugged in. It heated up the water inside the block. I used it on those end of or beginning of the season cold fronts. Pretty sure I got it at NAPA. Worked great! I'd beREAL careful about using a space heater or lightbulb setup. Many people do with no problem, but know of one instance (SkiWatch Estates in Milton) where the boat caught fire, burned down the house, and killed their son!


I would stay away from dipstick heaters, they can and have caught the oil on fire. Outlawed in Canada. They can also build up carbon deposits and might be hard to remove from the dipstick tube. As far as the replacement heating element to replace the casting plug..well maybe but I'd be leery of riser protection, and in that case drain the manifolds and risers. So I drain all, the block and manifold/risers. Takes but a few minutes and I don't have to worry when gone out of town for a week or more that there might be a electrical interruption.

But for those that want a warmer..


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## BIGRIGZ (Oct 2, 2007)

I have another question, about flushing a motor.

I have an Inboard. I cannot for the life of me find a hookup for flushing the motor. Is it possible that the boat doesn't have one and needs one of those T fittings installed? 

It has high speed pickups that go thru the bottom of the hull to a ball valve with a sight glass but none of the cooling hoses havea fitting to hook a hose up (that I can find so far anyway). BTW the boat is new to me and I've never had an inboard.


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

> *BIGRIGZ (1/2/2008)*I have another question, about flushing a motor.
> 
> I have an Inboard. I cannot for the life of me find a hookup for flushing the motor. Is it possible that the boat doesn't have one and needs one of those T fittings installed?
> 
> It has high speed pickups that go thru the bottom of the hull to a ball valve with a sight glass but none of the cooling hoses havea fitting to hook a hose up (that I can find so far anyway). BTW the boat is new to me and I've never had an inboard.


Most likely a CLOSED system (do you have a tank/radiator with a cap to add coolant?) and the PU is used to cool the manifolds. Closed system should have anti freeze in the system. Check manifolds to see if there is in fact a drain.


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

You can not cut the hose from the transom on an Alpha Drive as the illustration suggestsand run the motor.

Forinboards, Bravos, and Volvos, Perko makes a flush adapter that installs in line before the raw water pump. You connect a garden hose to it and flush your motor. You can not winterize with it though because it requires pressure to operate the check valves.


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

> *sosmarine (1/2/2008)*You can not cut the hose from the transom on an Alpha Drive as the illustration suggestsand run the motor.
> 
> Forinboards, Bravos, and Volvos, Perko makes a flush adapter that installs in line before the raw water pump. You connect a garden hose to it and flush your motor. You can not winterize with it though because it requires pressure to operate the check valves.


Using the kit I pictured, you still use a water-hose, which should give more then enough pressure..correct?? I still like the draining method best tho.


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

With the Perko flusher the kit will not work. I say this from personal experience. 

Draining is ok, but you have to make sure you actually get the water out. I have had customers swear they drained their motors and they cracked. Come to fine out they plugged the plug, but due to sediment in the block the water did not drain. Also, draining allows for corrosion. I have a tank with anti freeze in it that I run the motor over. This get the anti freeze in completely and not only protects against freezing, but also helps fight corrosion.


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## BIGRIGZ (Oct 2, 2007)




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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)




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## jared (Nov 6, 2007)

OK guys, how do you tell if you cracked the block or freeze plugs??There is no water in my oil but my motor's not turning. Thanks-jared


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

It's rare that a frozen block would keep your motor from turning over, especially after it warms up and thaws out. I would first check your battery and starter. A small block V8Chevy motor, typically, will crack on the outside justbelowthe head. This will cause in leak once the motor gets to operating temp. A V6 Chevy, typically, will crack on the inside just below the head inside the lifter valley. This too will leak at operating temp, but you wont see it. After running a while you will have milky looking oil.


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## jared (Nov 6, 2007)

thanks SOS--what about a 302 ford?


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## Tuna Man (Oct 2, 2007)

> *jared (1/7/2008)*thanks SOS--what about a 302 ford?


I have never seen a frozen motor not crank/turn over. Even with a frozen water pump the motor should at least turn over if the electrical components are up to snuff (so long as you don't have a cylinder full of water). If you are sure ALL electrical is good, pull plugs and spin over.As far as a cracked block the problem will come to light either 1. Water in oil (easy to spot, milky oil)..2. Water seeps into the cylinders (super clean plugs after running)..3. Water leaking out of block (may be the hardest to see). Casting plugs (freeze plugs) don't ALWAYS pop out, but usually do.

I'd put oddsthat theproblem is your electrical to start with.

How did you come to the remote possibility of a frozen engine to start with. Was it in fact that cold for that long while you were out of town. I know it was here in Calera, AL


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## Bill (Oct 4, 2007)

If you have an outboard, what should you do to protect it from the cold?


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

> *Bill (1/18/2008)*If you have an outboard, what should you do to protect it from the cold?


Trim the motor all the way down so water doesnt' collect in the prop housing and freeze. If for some reason it wont go down then pour some RV anti freeze in the housing.


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## Snagged Line (Sep 30, 2007)

On my mercruiser powered boats I have always protected them from freezing by putting anti freeze into the block rether than pulling plugs and draining all the various places you have to drain each time the temp drops for a couple of days. then deciding not to use the boat because of all of the trouble that it is to reinstall all of the plugs each time, only to repeat the whole process in a couple of weeks when the temp drops again. Some one may say that this is not safe to do this and I would say to them "Then do not do it" , But I have never had a problem in doing this and I Can use my boat at any time and have it protected again in a short time.

I took a plastic 55 gallon drum and cut it in half lengthwise with a recip. saw, then slide this tub under the back of boat ( lengthwise, not side to side so that exhaust water falls back into tub)and thenlower outdrive into the tub.Then run motor for 10 -15 mins on the ear muffs on the water hose to let motor reach operating temp so that the thermostat is open.( during this run I figure out where I am loosing water due to splashing and figure out where to stuff rags to catch it so it drips into tub)

Then I shut everything down and empty the tub and pour 2 gallons of anti-freeze into the empty tub. I rigged up a small builge pump with a sort section of hose to connect to the ear muffs to circulate the anti-freeze to the muffs and lower into one end of the tub.( it helps to slightly raise other end of tub)

The rest is obivious I restart the motor and circulate the yellow stuff untill the exhaust water dumping back into the tub is good and yellow. this is where it is important that you stopped your leaks to keep this liquid gold off the ground.

Lastly I shut everything down and use the pump to transfer what is left of my now deluted a/f into a five gallon bucket with lid to use again next time , just add some new a/f.

This sounds like a lot of effort, but once you get every thing set up just keep it all together as a winterizing kit and it gets easier to do each time. I have also used it on my waverunner and my 40 HP johnson outboard ,but I really dont think that they hold water like a mercruiser does......................Hope this helps someone, DENNIS


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## sosmarine (Sep 28, 2007)

I made a similar anti freeze tank that I use at the shop. I made one for each of the dealers I worked for years ago.


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## SeaBoss (Dec 31, 2007)

Bill,

I have a outboard motor and I covered it with a moving blanket and a plastic tarp over that. I also have it cranked up almost as high as it will go to keep the water draining. That tarp also covered the exposed hoses.

Just as a reminder if your flushing the antifreeze through the motor, keep the pets away or they will be poisoned if they ingest it.

Thank goodness it is suppose to warm up this week but rain.


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