# Time to spool up Hollow core with Top Shot or Just Mono



## Mullit

Its time to respool my 80's and I can not make up my mind on what to do. I was thinking about the new power pro hollow ace in 130 spliced to 100lb I am looking for input from anyone using any of the new hollow core spectra with mono top shot. Is it easy to spice like dacron? How small is it? How much mono capacity do you get with 750 yards packed on a tiagra 80. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## xyzzy

130lb hollowcore with 80lb topshot will put about a mile and a quarter of line on that outfit.

also, use Jerry Brown hollowcore, and I like a 4 foot splice, very easy with the right tool


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## Kim

I just started using Power Pro Ace Hollow core and I like it so far. I put 750 yards on the 30 W's with about 150 yards of 60 lb monofilament on top of that for about 900 yards of line, pretty much equivalent for a 50 W. On the 50 W's I put 1500 yards of 80 lb but I think I need to take about 300 yards off of that before the monofilament goes onto it. So the 50 W's will have close to 1500 yards of line. That much line dragging behind the boat will probably break without terminal tackle. I may put hollow core on the 80 W's again that would be 1500 yards with mono on top.

Ace Hollow core splices easy and holds tight. Shimano had instructions at their website. All you need is a fly winder, a good set of splicing needles and some untreated Shimano or Dcron floss. Don't use superglue on the splice, get the glue at a tackle store it's like superglue but remains flexible. If you can get it, get the Shimano Ace Hollow Core splicing kit, Power Pro has a bit smaller diameter than JB for instance and the smaller diameter needles make it easier to do.

Also the best price I've found on the Power Pro Hollow Core was at Sams Deli in Orange Beach. They will take a credit card order and get it to you in a few days.


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## Mullit

*Here is what i did*

Here is the setup I went with and the numbers I got

Tiagra 80s

850 yards 130 JB hollow core
350 yards 100lb ande 
plenty of room for the wind on

JB was easy to splice with needle and I am happy with getting rid of the 500 yards of mono that rarely sees daylight yet get replaced yearly.


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## Chris V

We spool both Power Pro hollow and JB and honestly, I like the new PP hollow a little better. It seems to splice much easier.

Thanks for the referral Kim but if he were to call the Deli, they could only help him with biscuits and sandwiches! The store and the Deli are actually 2 seperate things all together, he'd have to call the store number.


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## MSViking

I too prefer the PP ace, I know that the Jerry Brown has been around forever and is proven, but the PP has more filaments in the weave and to me is easier to splice (both are easy though)

One small thing to keep in mind if using 130 braid (either brand) is it will break well past 130 which would technically DQ any tournament caught fish as 130 is max breaking strength. I know most tournaments use the printed breaking strength, but I would hate to catch the AL state record blue in a qualifying 1million dollar prize tournament and potentially have it DQed. Just a thought.


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## Mullit

A very good thought/point and important to anyone fishing those tourneys even my 100lb ande may test out over the limit. Anyone fishing for records or line class tournaments should use IGFA tested line.


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## Xanadu

MSYellowfin said:


> I too prefer the PP ace, I know that the Jerry Brown has been around forever and is proven, but the PP has more filaments in the weave and to me is easier to splice (both are easy though)
> 
> One small thing to keep in mind if using 130 braid (either brand) is it will break well past 130 which would technically DQ any tournament caught fish as 130 is max breaking strength. I know most tournaments use the printed breaking strength, but I would hate to catch the AL state record blue in a qualifying 1million dollar prize tournament and potentially have it DQed. Just a thought.


I tried it. I've got some still on my heavy spinning rod that I'm intending to catch a Blue Marlin on. I think I've got 500 yards of 50# JB with about 20yds of 30# mono on top. I've used it on 50# class chunking reels for tuna fishing and it's great, but I wouldn't use it for trolling.

Putting 200# test on a 130 is overkill imho. Same for putting over classed backing on an 80# or 50#. It's DQ for the line class points in tournaments and a 50 was designed to run less than 20# of drag so I just don't see the point in spending hundreds of dollars to put line on a reel that won't ever see the limits of it's capacity. Chunking is different. I'll lock down an Accurate 50# with braid and tuck my knees under the gunnel and dare a fish to lift me, but for trolling it's dangerous to some extent and not worth the money.

I do, however, have every one of my trolling reels loaded with line class appropriate dacron spliced to 150 or so yards of mono. That eliminates the stretch and allows me to change an easy 150yards after every trip without dropping $80 per reel per trip. You do need to rinse the dacron when you get it salty or it could build up salt and pit your reels, but that's easy enough if you already take care of your stuff.


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## Mullit

Salt buildup is why I got away from dacron its like it makes salt. The reason I went with 130 JB spectra over 80 is 1 diameter(easier to work with and handle plus it takes less to fill the spool which also lowers cost) 2 price(the 80 just cost more). Again I know this dqs records but right now I fish for meat and flags so line class is of no concern. I will be going back to straight mono if that changes.

I have fished 80lb powerpro backing with 300yd 60 on top with a loop to loop on my standup 50W tiagras(set @ 18lbs strike) for years. The reason for 80 over 50lb was the diameter not the breaking strength. It works great and its caught a few blues, but I hate the conection. The regular powerpro spectra just does not hold the salt that dacron does imo. Plus the thin diameter cuts down on line drag in water if you do get some serious string out. Thankfully they came out with hollow core spectra so now I can splice it and make a connection I trust on my 80s. I know it been out for a while but I am slow to change and was concerned it might slip. But so far I am very happy with the hollow core JB(got it for cheap, helped me decide which one to go with) still waiting to try it out on a big girl but it handles the little ones. I was told that it is not as bad on holding salt, I will know more about november when I pull it off and wash it. I will pass that info on then.

As far as trolling with nothing but tiny specta, it is dangerous, can be hell on your fingers, imposible to untangle and will slice through almost anything it touches especially mono. But dacron and mono under tension will burn and cut you as well. That is why I use a little longer than average topshop it lets us handle just mono most of the time.


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## Xanadu

Yes, I recall very vividly the first time I ordered some 80# JB. It's crazy expensive - or at least it used to be - and I didn't pay attention and just ordered it on a couple reels. 

That bill was like seeing a ghost!


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## Captain Mickey O'Reilly

Whatever you decide to use, invest in DaHo splicing needles! They are worth their weight in gold, and if you check Shimanos website, they tell you how much braid can go on your 80's. Back that number off by around 150 yds., and go with your mono topshot. Sato make a unique micro crimp for splicing top shots without the need for serving, and are proving to be much stronger connections! Good luck!

Mickey


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## Mullit

I agree a good set off needles are priceless when it come to splicing. TGB where do you get the sato micro crimps from? I have not heard of them, sounds interesting.


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## Captain Mickey O'Reilly

Check the charkbait website, they are out on the west coast, and do a ton of long range fishing using spectra/mono combos.


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