# 21 Cape Horn Restoration Project



## SquidBrand

So I just bought a 21 CH 1994 and plan to finish the proir owners project(he bought a 24 ch...jealous). Needs to be repowerd, rewired, and gauges. Got it for $3000 so I think it was a decent price

Came with...
Hull
Hyd Steering
Trim Tabs (new pump)
700 ft rope
poly fuel tank
+ all stock items that came on the boat

Also new never installed...
Windshield
Rub rail
switchboard w switches
T Top canvas


Questions?

1. Repower options...
Twin 115 4 strokes
or
Single 225 with a kicker

2. Where is the best place to look for motors online? Looking for "new in crate" motors that are last year or older models.

3. Any other info that will help with the project.

Thanks!!!


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## SquidBrand

pic


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## SquidBrand

fuel cut out


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## 20simmons sea skiff

boats.net


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## MGlover54

Doesn't seem as much of a restoration as a fixer upper and needs a few things done before hitting the water. Restoration would be a full strip down and re-working.

Powering: Whatever you're comfortable with. 2 motors means a little added security offshore, but also twice the motor maintenance.

Looking for motors: Craigslist, eBay....that's about it. FINDING year or two old motors, good luck. Those motors are normally still in service and don't pop up often.

Will's Marine quoted me around $8500 for a brand new 115 Evinrude the other week. I've seen 2 year old 115s for sale for...yes, $8500. Go buy new.


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## KPTN

SquidBrand said:


> So I just bought a 21 CH 1994 and plan to finish the proir owners project(he bought a 24 ch...jealous). Needs to be repowerd, rewired, and gauges. Got it for $3000 so I think it was a decent price
> 
> Came with...
> Hull
> Hyd Steering
> Trim Tabs (new pump)
> 700 ft rope
> poly fuel tank
> + all stock items that came on the boat
> 
> Also new never installed...
> Windshield
> Rub rail
> switchboard w switches
> T Top canvas
> 
> 
> Questions?
> 
> 1. Repower options...
> Twin 115 4 strokes
> or
> Single 225 with a kicker
> 
> 2. Where is the best place to look for motors online? Looking for "new in crate" motors that are last year or older models.
> 
> 3. Any other info that will help with the project.
> 
> Thanks!!!


If you start changing the engine configuration it will cost more than you would think. If i had a single engine i would stick with that setup.


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## SquidBrand

First off thanks for the replies.

Ya restoration may have been a strong word. I also will be replacing the floor so its completly woodless and maybe a paint job(doesnt really need it). Uncle owns a marine fiberglass shop so mise well. Also, just got done rebuilding stringers on my W/A and thats what prompted me to buy a CH(no wood except the floor). Im not in a big hurry to ever do that again. 

As for the eingine, its set up to do either. The boat originally had twins but then was changed to a single. The prior owner covered all the twin spots on the console with starboard (he did a really sweet job with it). Engine without a doubt will be new. I was just looking left over stock like last year models "still in the box". Seen a few on Ebay and CL. 

After reading my original post I realize I didnt explain everything very well. I know the pros and cons to single v twins. I'm really looking for others who have or have had this hull for inputs on top end, handling, fuel consumtion. I should have stated that up top. 

I will have to say the thread I read on hear about removing the fish box does intrigues me. With my experience fishboxes are worthless for ice. CH made those big fish boxes and then cut out tiny doors for them?


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## X-Shark

> As for the eingine, its set up to do either. The boat originally had twins but then was changed to a single.


And I bet those twins were lighter weight 2 strokes.


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## SquidBrand

Ya they were. I've seen some 21 ch with twin fours but they were the new body style. Havnt checked on the max wieght in my body. Im leaning mostly to single with kicker, ebirb, life raft and spot. Hopefully between all of them ill always get back to the docks somehow. Oh and sea tow obviously. Lol


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## DreamWeaver21

Mine has a single and I would go that route again. 45mph flat out with a 225 2 stroke. I talked to a guy in THT that put a 250 four stroke Yamaha on and old style 21and his would run 49mph flat out. Either way a comfortable cruise in decent weather is low to mid 30s. Mine got about 2.5mpg at cruise anywhere from 28-36mph.


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## grassbed hunter

DreamWeaver21 said:


> Mine has a single and I would go that route again. 45mph flat out with a 225 2 stroke. I talked to a guy in THT that put a 250 four stroke Yamaha on and old style 21and his would run 49mph flat out. Either way a comfortable cruise in decent weather is low to mid 30s. Mine got about 2.5mpg at cruise anywhere from 28-36mph.


dont u miss that fine boat


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## SquidBrand

Well just got back from Afgan a few weeks ago and got right on it. Decided to go with a df225. Ordered all new NMEA gauges, wiring, batteries, pumps and bought another TTop/cobia cage. Laid down all the neoprene down in the fuel cell compartment yesturday and going to glass in some brackets today for cross members to hold the tank down. Decided to wait till the end of the season to re-gel coat the interior. Will post some more pix soon. Hopefully it will be water ready in a few weeks. Still not sure which hole for engine or prop size/pitch. I know wbere the engine should be but every motor/ boat hull is different.


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## The Maintenance Shoppe

What were the original motors??? Is there a throttle/shift control box on the boat right now???
Are there any gages on the boat, and are the oem or after market???


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## SquidBrand

The original motors were twin 115. I bought the boat and it was stripped down to hull, console, ttop. No wires, gauges, pumps or engine. I have all new throtle, control box, wire, gauges all from zuzuki. All new pumps. All new sea star switches and all new tinned wiring. Just put the tank in today and about to run new pvc pipe for my rigging.


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## steamin53

Did you pull the fuel tank? If so did you have to cut out the floor to do so and how will you go about closing the opening once it's replaced.

I've got a 93 CH 21 I think I'm going to have to pull the tank on. Big job I imagine.

Steve


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## X-Shark

> Laid down all the neoprene down in the fuel cell compartment


Neoprene has Carbon in it. That is how it gets it's color Black.

If you touch bare alum with it...It will react and corrode if not coated , say with Coal tar Epoxy to protect the alum.

I've seen tanks come out and the only place it had corrosion is where it was touching Rubber.


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## SquidBrand

The previous owner made the cuts. He got the measurements from CH and cut down the middle of the stringers. He managed to do it without cutting into the stringers. I can give you the measurements if you want them. I will post some pix of it for ya. This season I am just going to screw it down and seal it. After the fall I am going to roll new gel coat down and glass the fuel panel back in.

X it was a poly tank but that is some good info to know.


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## fisheye48

SquidBrand said:


> So I just bought a 21 CH 1994 and plan to finish the proir owners project(he bought a 24 ch...jealous). Needs to be repowerd, rewired, and gauges. Got it for $3000 so I think it was a decent price
> 
> Came with...
> Hull
> Hyd Steering
> Trim Tabs (new pump)
> 700 ft rope
> poly fuel tank
> + all stock items that came on the boat
> 
> Also new never installed...
> Windshield
> Rub rail
> switchboard w switches
> T Top canvas
> 
> 
> Questions?
> 
> 1. Repower options...
> Twin 115 4 strokes
> or
> Single 225 with a kicker
> 
> 2. Where is the best place to look for motors online? Looking for "new in crate" motors that are last year or older models.
> 
> 3. Any other info that will help with the project.
> 
> Thanks!!!


no foul weather gear??? from what i remember those older capes are WETTTTTT but a very very very solid boat...i saw one get beat to death for years and was just as solid as the day it left the factory...great boat and have fun with the upgrades on it...post pics when your done


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## specktackler57

I have a 97 21 ch.250 yam 2 stroke.48 mph.they are a little wetter,both the trade off is worth it.those things are tanks.good luck.


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## steamin53

SquidBrand said:


> The previous owner made the cuts. He got the measurements from CH and cut down the middle of the stringers. He managed to do it without cutting into the stringers. I can give you the measurements if you want them. I will post some pix of it for ya. This season I am just going to screw it down and seal it. After the fall I am going to roll new gel coat down and glass the fuel panel back in.
> 
> X it was a poly tank but that is some good info to know.


I'd love to have the measurements and some pics. What do you intend to refasten the piece to? Are you going to build in a cleat or something like that to which to fasten.... hmmmm might be a good idea... then if (God forbid) one should have to remove it again for some reason it wouldn't be so tough a job.

Steve


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## SquidBrand

steamin53 said:


> I'd love to have the measurements and some pics. What do you intend to refasten the piece to? Are you going to build in a cleat or something like that to which to fasten.... hmmmm might be a good idea... then if (God forbid) one should have to remove it again for some reason it wouldn't be so tough a job.
> 
> Steve


If you still need those measurements PM. I just saw your last reply. The stringers basically run right inline with your console and bait tank base.


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## Har5da43

big fish boxes and then cut out tiny doors for them?


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## SquidBrand

steamin53 said:


> I'd love to have the measurements and some pics. What do you intend to refasten the piece to? Are you going to build in a cleat or something like that to which to fasten.... hmmmm might be a good idea... then if (God forbid) one should have to remove it again for some reason it wouldn't be so tough a job.
> 
> Steve


 
Steamin Sorry for the delay here is what I got. I'm no artist or engineer.


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## SquidBrand

Har5da43 said:


> big fish boxes and then cut out tiny doors for them?


I would have rather had 1 large door than 2 small ones. I may make the cut and install a 1 large. Those access hatches aint cheap though!


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## steamin53

SquidBrand said:


> Steamin Sorry for the delay here is what I got. I'm no artist or engineer.


I guess I should have checked the thread before replying to your message. Thanks a million for the dimensions. I guess you didn't have a leaning post like I do. I might need to remove it if I have to go that far too.

Any pics would be appreciated if you get some time.

Again, much obliged.

Steve


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## SquidBrand

Steamin I do have a leaning post. Its the stock CH one. You choose to remove it or leave it on. I will say it is better to remove it. I tried taking pictures Yesterday but the back of my boat is uner an awning. Couldnt get high enough to get the whole shot. I will take some when I pull it out.


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## SquidBrand

I was thinking aboug getting it Line X'd but $2500. I could gel coat it 5 times for that. It sure does look good and looks like it really seals everything up. I know I'm already way over what the boats worth so I guess I will hold off on Line X.


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## Sailfish236

Did that year have the bildge in the console that pumped onto the deck? I was wondering because my 95 ch 21 is that way and I would rather have a drain and plumb it to the main bildge. Or was there a reason there was a bildge under the console?


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## SquidBrand

Cant say for sure but I'd say plumbing would be difficult and require many cuts. The floor of the console is dead center of the fuel cell. I have drain holes coming from the fuel and the chamber aft. I have my batteries in the console and would love for it to drain to the bilge.


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## Sailfish236

So is the forward bildge sitting right on top of the fule tank or is there any space to just put a hole?


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## SquidBrand

The fuel tank is aft of the forward bilge. Another words it butts up to it. The fuel tank will hang down lower than the console bilge floor.(if you fuel tank is a V shape). There will still be room under the fuel tank to run plumbing. Also under the console is foam filled.


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## Sailfish236

So whats the plan? Have you already started glassing it? Going with the original configuration or running a new drain? I would run a drain if I ever had to pull the tank, no sense having a bildge in the console that just spits out onto the deck, I could be wrong, there must have been some reason cape horn set it up like that, my guess is most boats have a drain under the console.


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## SquidBrand

Going to wait till the end of the season to glass it back. Just had to pull the tank all the way cause of the vent tube fitting was leaking. I am thinkng of running that plumbing so the water jusr flows to the bilge. I would only have to make 1 cut and run some PVC. I going to glass it back in the winter when I put a fresh set of gel coat down.


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## SquidBrand

steamin53 said:


> I guess I should have checked the thread before replying to your message. Thanks a million for the dimensions. I guess you didn't have a leaning post like I do. I might need to remove it if I have to go that far too.
> 
> Any pics would be appreciated if you get some time.
> 
> Again, much obliged.
> 
> Steve


Ameri-Kart Corp is the mf of the fuel tank. I spoke with the guys a Cape Horn and they said the usually have fuel cells in stock however right now the are retooling the tanks to meet EPA standards. The may have some in a few weeks. The old ones ran $800. He said he does not have the price on the new ones yet.


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