# T-Top pole in hatch opening...Any ideas???



## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

Just bought this boat and didn't think this would bother me too much, but I was certainly wrong. I definitely need to be able to access this hatch more than I can currently. Any ideas as to how I can either cut this hatch door to open around t-top pole or anyone know how much it would cost (est.) to have a kick-out put in this pole for door to open?


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## Bill Me (Oct 5, 2007)

How about get rid of the hinge and make it completely removable? Use 4 dogs or something similar to open and remove?


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

Honestly didn't think about getting rid of hinge, I'll have to look into that. Sorry, but what do you mean by dogs? Doesn't ring a bell to me


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## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

or maybe a sliding door might even be able to slide it either way.


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## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

I think he is talking about two more quarter turn latches.
Or four if the existing ones are not qtr turns.


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

The problem I run into is that I cannot even remove the hatch frame and door completely as some screws are behind the door that won't open all the way. I'll probably end up having to cut it off with a disk cutter of some sort then rigging it on different system. I appreciate the input though


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

You can add a vertical, piano hinge where it is hitting and add a quarter turn top and bottom to the aft of that point. 

Basically you end up with a slightly narrower door but since it will fold around that stanchion you should have plenty of access.


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## NoleAnimal (Apr 3, 2014)

Double-hinge. Cut the door vertically and put another set of hinges to break open right where the door hits the t-top support. You can open the door and mark right where it makes contact and the close the door and draw the complete line using a level and then cut it. You'll still lose an inch or two of clearance, but it would make it much more usable.


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## NoleAnimal (Apr 3, 2014)

Guess we were typing that out at the same time, slim.


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## panhandleslim (Jan 11, 2013)

NoleAnimal said:


> Guess we were typing that out at the same time, slim.


Great minds, huh?


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## lastcast (Oct 12, 2007)

Turn the whole frame 180 deg.


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks for the thoughts. I like the double hinge idea. Still trying to decide, but will post pics of what I finally decide on and end up with.


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## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

turning the whole assembly 180 would result in the door opening about 2".

Cut the hinge loose or remove.
Install two "z" brackets on the back that allow you to slide door sideways a bit and hook around the backside of door jamb (hinge side) as your swinging it closed.


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## TightLines172 (May 13, 2011)

Flip the whole frame so the door opens the opposite swing, then cut the hatch in half and add a piano hinge. You'll end up with a bi-fold door opening up access to the entire hatch...just with an opposite swing...


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## Bill Me (Oct 5, 2007)

johnsonbeachbum said:


> I think he is talking about two more quarter turn latches.
> Or four if the existing ones are not qtr turns.


Yes, that is what I meant


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## Bill Me (Oct 5, 2007)

TightLines172 said:


> Flip the whole frame so the door opens the opposite swing, then cut the hatch in half and add a piano hinge. You'll end up with a bi-fold door opening up access to the entire hatch...just with an opposite swing...


Good solution


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

Bill Me said:


> Good solution


I like this solution. Problem is getting the hatch off due to some screws being hidden behind door that wont open. Will end up having to cut off hinge anyways so that may be the way to go. I appreciate the ideas guys


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## Snagged Line (Sep 30, 2007)

are they screws, or nuts and bolts?/ If you can loosen the screws from the backside with vice grips enough to get a hack saw blade behind the flange and cut the screw or loosen the nut and do the same...

or possibly unmount the entire T-Top to get it out of the way to remove flange....


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

Snagged Line said:


> are they screws, or nuts and bolts?/ If you can loosen the screws from the backside with vice grips enough to get a hack saw blade behind the flange and cut the screw or loosen the nut and do the same...
> 
> or possibly unmount the entire T-Top to get it out of the way to remove flange....


They are screws and I never really thought about unmounting the entire T-top; didn't exactly know how much trouble that would be. Ill be working on it some this weekend so I'll update when project gets going.


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## Catchin Hell (Oct 9, 2007)

Cut the hinges since you can't get to the screws. Then add some brackets to the back on the hinge side of the door that will extend past the inside edge. You can use 5200 to make the brackets out of starboard or find some stainless spring metal and screw it to the back side of the door. Best case scenario would be to find something that will snap in place and keep tension on the door when it's closed. I hope that makes sense. I'm afraid you'll lose your water tight seal if you go with a bi-fold door.


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## markbxr400 (Jul 23, 2013)

Think yours has a problem? Was looking for one for my Sea Fox. Don't think I'll be buying a Fishmaster. This is their pics from their own website!

http://www.fishmaster.com/CustomerPhotos/SeaFox.htm


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## lsucole (May 7, 2009)

Why don't you just put another door on the other side that will open all the way ?


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## smooth move (Sep 25, 2012)

how about slip hinges that will separate or unhook. i know west marine has them, i've got em on my dock box so that we can completely remove the lid and use it for a table.
maybe fix your hinge so that you can pull the pin?


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## Breeze Fabricators (Oct 2, 2007)

Add a pin combo to the bottom and top of leg. Make it remove or fold. About 60 bucks for the hinge and 1 hour labor to weld. 200. Bucks total.


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## smooth move (Sep 25, 2012)

after looking at your pic again, it looks like the extra cam lock latch idea is your best bet and then you can completely remove the door when you need access.


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## tbaxl (Mar 13, 2013)

I can't believe a professional fabricator let that out the door and the owner accepted it. Personally, I would be the down leg before I messed with the door, but I like things to function like they are supposed to.


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

So this is what we ended up with and it has worked well. Holds in tight and hasn't moved yet and have been bouncing around a good bit since install. Thanks for the suggestions, just decided to take this route since we had some extra starboard sitting around.

Sorry I don't know how to get the pics to post upright


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## jasoncooperpcola (Jan 2, 2008)

markbxr400 said:


> Think yours has a problem? Was looking for one for my Sea Fox. Don't think I'll be buying a Fishmaster. This is their pics from their own website!
> 
> http://www.fishmaster.com/CustomerPhotos/SeaFox.htm


Hope noone has to poop really bad?

Sent from Coop's S5 on Tapacrapatalk


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## rustybucket (Aug 18, 2011)

lsucole said:


> Why don't you just put another door on the other side that will open all the way ?


That was my thought as well, just add another access on the other side of the console and leave this one as-is.


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## smooth move (Sep 25, 2012)

good job, looks good too.


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## pcolaboi83 (Apr 23, 2009)

Only used for storage of dry materials and an extra 3 gallon gas tank. Able to take off door and access rear of dash panel for working on gauges, etc. Extra starboard comes in handy


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