# Plumber and Carpentry help PLEASE!



## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Is it possible or necessary to replace the copper water pipes under the sink? I'm getting significant water damage to my cabinets and I can't figure out if it's a loose fitting, the dishwasher, or the pipes themselves. What is the best way to water proof the spigots and hoses once I reattach them. I'm gonna cut out the rotten wood and replace and paint them all white. Is there a way to water proof cabinets? I was thinking about cutting out the wood and replacing with cement board and covering with wood trimming or something. Has anyone ever heard of doing it this way or should I just replace with more wood. Thanks.


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## countryjwh (Nov 20, 2007)

is the leak in the slab?


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

I'm pretty sure it's not. The water marks around the base of the cabinets and around the copper where the spigot was connected. The slab under the cabinet is dry and clean. The dark line in the middle is a brace board under that cabinet.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Oh and I broke the PVC drain pipe so that's awesome


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

My supply valves were pretty bad. Sorry I called them spigots earlier but meant valve.


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## Walton County (Aug 23, 2016)

Based off the pictures, it looks more like standing water or perhaps a bit of high moisture contact over a long period of time.
If it was the valves or copper, it would be discolored and green going to the slab. I can't see any string indicator.
I would sweat on some new valves and turn the water back on with them shut off. You should see something if they are leaking. Make doubley sure at that time they aren't leaking. 
Most of the time sink, toilet, dishwasher connections are the culprits and not the branch piping. Get some teflon or dope before your secure your connections.
There are a variety of waterproofing materials available but I don't think that's the correct way to fix your problem.


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## kiefersdad (Apr 26, 2013)

*Water stream*

On the picture that is time stamped at 1:51pm the water looks like it was around the base of the cabinets starting from the front and going backwards into the base. The staining looks like it has been there longer than the staining on the inside back area. Sometimes pipes sweat and leave water stains but as said previously there are no green marks around the floor. That would clearly indicate leakage thru the fittings. I could be wrong, but I think you might have had some leakage around the top of the sink where it comes in contact with the counter top. That comes from not waterproofing the top of the sink to the counter top. When ever you wash the dishes or spray any water around the sink and it comes over the edges of the sink it can leak down if not sealed properly. Just a thought to consider. 
good luck with it, 
Mike


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

I cleaned the area before the pics. It was a little discolored but I think it was the valves leaking a bit or the dishwasher was leaking on the corner closest to the sink. I'm looking up ways of waterproofing the dishwasher as well. Has anyone ever used shark bite push to connect valves or should I just stay with the normal valves by keeney. Only options at Lowe's. Replacing flanges too. I will YouTube leak proofing the valve install I guess


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## countryjwh (Nov 20, 2007)

I've used shark bites in a pinch but I'd just sweat a firing on there. Like stated above.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

I'm installing a new stainless single basin sink with apron under the countertops. I will make sure the seems are water tight. Thanks for the info on that. Gonna replace the rotten wood with ply wood and cover with oak project board. Gonna have to caulk it before tile goes in then again after quarter round goes in. I told my wife it was her fault for mopping the tile and leaving the cabinets wet. She didn't like that.:no::thumbup:


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

I've never done copper before so lets see what happens. The double cut off valves are $20. I wasn't expecting that.


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

Get compression stops to put on the copper pipes. Most leaks are from around the faucet and sink after they are mounted.

Fill the under side of the new faucet with plumbers putty. Enough so it squeezes out when you install the faucet. Do the same on the new sink. Roll a bead of plumbers putty all the way around the edge of the sink before setting it in the hole. This will keep splashed water from getting down to the wood.

When using compression stops always use pipe dope on the compression ring. This way they will never leak and will tighten correctly.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Ok thanks for the help guys. I will definitely put plenty of putty too. Hope I can fix the cabinet box though. That's first then new paint and molding. Then I'll put it back in. I'll let you guys know how it went. Never done any of this stuff just winging it


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## kanaka (Oct 3, 2007)

Unless you're trying to get it done this weekend, you might want to check Crestview Wholesale on 90W and Crestview Hardware on Main St for parts.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Bandaid # 1 took a while hopefully the other side won't.


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## Orion45 (Jun 26, 2008)

What Ocean Master said above.

I redid some of my plumbing after Ivan.. Anything behind sheetrock...I sweated.

All shutoff valves were installed with compression fittings. Much easier to replace a valve later on.

I would add...use 1/4 turn valves instead of the ones you had. They are much better and never had one leak from the stem.

Also, "exercise" valves (turn them on and off a couple of times) once or twice a year. Will prevent build up in the valve that causes it to stick.


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

If the stems do leak on any type of valve just tighten the stem nut. I remember back in they day when mop string was used in an emergency to fix valve stems. Much larger valves.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Thanks for all of your help guys. I really appreciate it. It turned out alright. Hopefully it's water tight for a while.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Is there a reason for these copper pieces or can I just put the hose straight to the valve. I'm not sure why they're on the old valves


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## Ocean Master (May 20, 2008)

If the flex hose from the faucet will reach the valves then yes you can connect them.

The flex hose will have some sort of plastic ferrul (ring) to fit the new stops.


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## Lieutenant ZKO (Jan 19, 2015)

Ocean Master said:


> If the flex hose from the faucet will reach the valves then yes you can connect them.
> 
> The flex hose will have some sort of plastic ferrul (ring) to fit the new stops.


Ok. Just making sure they weren't there for another reason. Thanks again for the help. Yesterday I thought this was gonna be a pain in the ass but all of it was pretty simple. The plumbing anyway. The carpentry took me a while. The hoses do have rubber gaskets but put tape on the threads too.


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