# 2-7x scope for .270?



## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

Guys, I've been reading alot of your posts and opinions on this site and feel that my question can be answered easily. I just purchased my first rifle chambered in .270 win and I am in the process of looking for a good scope for the next deer season. The land I will be hunting, includes a powerline, woods and a field with a distance end to end of about 300-350 yds. My dilemma is that I want a scope that allows me to reach the end of the powerline(with confidence), about 200-250 yards, but also the ability to power down to shoot something right in front of me. I've shot several rifles equipped with at least 3-9x40's but never a 2-7x. So my question, would a descent 2-7x (leupold) be adequate glass for a 250 yard shot? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:


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## tjwareusmc (Jul 10, 2008)

My personal opinion is no. I've done most of my hunting with a 3X9 and I feel like even at 9 power the animal is getting pretty small past 200 yds. Now I know that there are the old timers who swear they can hit anything with a 4 power weaver but in my personal experience I like more zoom. 

I've been shooting over 20 years and qualified as an expert with peep sites in the Marine Corps but trying to put a single bullet in the kill zone of a deer is a little different.

I'm even interested in looking into a scope that goes to 10 or 12 power but like I said, I've hunted with a leupold 3X9 40mm all my life and it is a wonderful all around scope.


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## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

tjwareusmc; Thanks for the input! I know most of my shots will be between 50-150 yards but I know that the occasional long shot will be needed. My luck of course would be that every shot I'm given will be at 200+yds and I don't want to buy a scope and then realize that it can't magnify the animal large enough to give me a confident shot. Of course I will be at the range quite a bit between now and deer season but don't want to risk the money if it's not going to do the job that I need it to do. Thanks again.


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## T-REX (Mar 1, 2011)

*scope*

I have a 2.5x15x56 on my .270 I made a few long shots this season one @ 250yrds on a meadium bodied doe an I can tell you I used all of that 15 power I would say go with at least a 12 power!just my opinion though!


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## JoeZ (Sep 30, 2007)

I hunted hard on a power line this year and can guarantee you the deer will come out as far away as possible. They're jerks like that. 
I'm looking into something about 15x for my 270 and would recommend you stick with 9 or better if you have a possible 200+ yard shot.


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## PensacolaEd (Oct 3, 2007)

There are scopes that offer 2.8 - 10 power ranges, I have an older model that does and I have made shots as far as nearly 300 yards on 10 power.


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## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

I appreciate the input. Shows how little experience I have with scopes. Guess I'll be looking at least the 3-9x40's then.


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## Joraca (Dec 29, 2007)

Anybody that cant shoot 1 moa with a 4X rifle scope is a sissy!!

(sights in at 3X)

Joraca


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## bigbulls (Mar 12, 2008)

Using 7X magnification at 250 yards would be the equivalent of using iron sights at 35 yards. I'm sure this will offend every person on the forum but if you can't put a bullet in a deer's vitals at 250 yards with a 7 power scope then you can't shoot for shit. 

Having said this Hawk, you will have a whole lot more choices in scopes in 3-9X__ than you will in 2-7X__.




Simply buying a scope with high magnification is far from an end all to rifle scopes. It can be more of a hindrance than a help in certain circumstances.

The higher you go in magnification the darker the image will be unless you opt to buy a scope with a larger objective lens. A larger objective lens forces you to mount the scope higher which forces you to lift your head in order to see through the scope which results in a less than perfect hold on the rifle, which can result in less than accurate shots.

The higher you go in magnification the smaller your field of view will be. Finding the animal in the scope becomes increasingly difficult with high magnification.

The higher you go in magnification the more you are going to spend on the scope, especially if you also opt for a larger objective lens to make up for some of the loss of light.

The higher you go in magnification the more it magnifies any little movement you make to the rifle... such as heart beat, shaking hands, unsteady rest, etc.... 

The higher you go in magnification the more effect mirage will have on hot days.




I never sacrifice having a low end magnification (meaning 2 or 3 power) in order to gain magnification on the high end. Spend your money in quality glass instead of magnification and larger lenses and you will be better off. With quality glass you won't have eye strain, the image will be brighter, crisper and clearer, colors will be truer, etc....


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## bcbz71 (Dec 22, 2008)

3-9x40 Leupold Vari-X II (or better), a range finder and a shopping cart full of ammo to practice would be my suggestion. Until you can knock the center out of a 4" bullseye at 200yds, I wouldn't pull the trigger on a live animal. 

200 yds or more is a LONG FREAKING shot at rest on a calm day...now add hair, hooves, wind, shooting from a stand with a two-point rest, excitement, etc....you get my point. Lots of internet sharpshooters shooting that far or farther, but few real-life folks do. 

If the majority of my shots were 200yds, I would move my stand closer to the trail.


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## drifterfisher (Oct 9, 2009)

I had a 4x16x40 Center Point on my 22LR..... 1" 10 shot groups at 100yds were doable with that rifle.Thats with still air.A buddy has a Red Field 4x16x40 on his 270 and off a bench I've seen 2" 3 shot groups at 400yds.Thats with him shooting hand loads,and he's a marine vet...
Me personally I want something strong enough to see bullet holes at what ever distance I'm shooting at.
You can't hit what you can't see. Good luck in your search,go out to gunshops and look through some of the scopes they offer and find one you can afford and like.BTW my CP was just as clear and bright as the RF,with a price difference of 70 bucks VS 350 bucks.


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## bama99 (Dec 20, 2009)

I pretty much agree with everything Bigbulls said. I don't have a lot of experience but have found most of what he said to be true. I had a budget of about $400 bucks for a scope to put on my Sako .243. I went with a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8 x 36 based on similar advise and love it. 

It is bright, clear, and mounts nice and low. It is also light and did not add a lot of extra weight or upset the perfect balance of that rifle. I'm big into how a rifle handles and balances so that was important to me. I have no problems hitting out to 300 yards, and most importantly, I can do it from less than ideal shooting positions because I have a light and well balanced rifle that just seems natural to me. A big honkin high power scope would have ruined a perfectly balanced rifle in my case.


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## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

Thanks guys! Still don't know which side I want to go for: lower magnification but better quality scope or higher mag and decent scope. I guess it depends on what will be available in the stores that I visit here in the near future. But will take these opinions into consideration when I go!


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## baldona523 (Mar 2, 2008)

bcbz71 said:


> 3-9x40 Leupold Vari-X II (or better), a range finder and a shopping cart full of ammo to practice would be my suggestion. Until you can knock the center out of a 4" bullseye at 200yds, I wouldn't pull the trigger on a live animal.
> 
> 200 yds or more is a LONG FREAKING shot at rest on a calm day...now add hair, hooves, wind, shooting from a stand with a two-point rest, excitement, etc....you get my point. Lots of internet sharpshooters shooting that far or farther, but few real-life folks do.
> 
> If the majority of my shots were 200yds, I would move my stand closer to the trail.


Very well said. Honestly if this is your first real deer gun, don't get anything over a 3-9x40. Until you've killed more than a few deer you really shouldn't be shooting over 200 yds. Too many factors like a poor rest and most importantly buck fever. Those bigger scopes really do get heavy and akward.

The average whitetail killed by a bow is like 17 yards. No reason you can't get a deer within 200 yards. I understand wanting to shoot further, but your first deer gun should not be a 400 yard powerline gun IMO.


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## bigbulls (Mar 12, 2008)

Hawk80 said:


> Thanks guys! Still don't know which side I want to go for: lower magnification but better quality scope or higher mag and decent scope. I guess it depends on what will be available in the stores that I visit here in the near future. But will take these opinions into consideration when I go!


How much do you have, or want to spend on a scope?


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## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

I would prefer between $200-250 but may go a little higher if I find something that I really want. Not much on a scope I know, but figured since its the first for me, it will be fine.


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## Emerald Ghost (Mar 11, 2008)

*scope choice*

I hunted with a Swarovski 3X9X36 for about 15 years mounted atop a Browning A bolt .270
Clear, crisp glass, and no eye strain
QUALITY GLASS !


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## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

a Swarovski maybe a little out of my price range....


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## bigbulls (Mar 12, 2008)

If you want to spend between $200 and $300 then I highly suggest you look for a 2-7X or 3-9X and buy the most quality for the money.


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## FrankwT (Jul 25, 2010)

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=WE800704&src=bckrdAlrt



perfect for your 270!

Or Redfields at Optic Planet are in your price range.


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## Hawk80 (Mar 21, 2012)

Frank, I actually did look at that one. I think somebody else had posted about it recently... Only concern is the warranty; does it have one? The lifetime warrantys of the Leupolds, Redfields, and Nikons are very attractive.


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## FrankwT (Jul 25, 2010)

Weaver Service and Support Limited Lifetime Warranty: Weaver warrants this product to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for as long as it is owned by the original owner. Weaver will repair or replace (at Weavers' option) any such defective product when it is returned by the original owner with a copy of the original receipt. The repair or replacement will be without charge* except for reasonable shipping, handling and insurance charges.


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