# Stainless or Aluminum Rivets?



## miztergentz (Oct 8, 2007)

I thought by now I would be posting pictures of this project but..... I went to put my new rub rail on and found that the stainless screws would be far too long. This boat (a 1970 Manatee Skiff) has a single rolled edge that is 1/4" thick... if I used the screws then there would be a real safety hazard when gripping the edge of the boat... so I have decided to go purchase a pneumatic rivet gun and attach the rub rail with rivets. When I removed the old rail it was riveted on, guess I should have paid more attention. So, what would/should I use in this application, Aluminum or Stainless?

The other question: The rub rail material is about 1/8" thick, the actual thickness of the rolled edge of the boat is 1/4"... what size rivets should I be using. I will be placing a washer behind each rivet to keep them from popping through.

Thanks again for all the help....


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## ccollum (Jun 29, 2011)

*Correct Rivets to Use*

As a certified aircraft mechanic with extensive structural and sheetmetal experience It is hard to determine which one is the most practical. If you are working with a rub rail that is made of stainless and a hull that is made of aluminum I would use a rivet that is the same type of material as the thickest material that it is going through. If both pieces of structure are aluminum I would use aluminum and if both are stainless I would use stainless. If you are putting the rivets through 2 different types of metal, I would install them with epoxy paint on the shank of the rivet and would use washers made of the same type of material that they will be touching. By following these guidlines you will be less likely to experience galvanic corrosion. Hope this helps.


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## miztergentz (Oct 8, 2007)

*Thanks!*

Thanks for the GREAT reply...but I failed to mention that the new TACO rub rail I am installing is all rubber and it's attaching to a fiberglass rail.... Does that help? I will be putting 5200 adhesive behind the rub rail as I rivet/screw it to the boat......


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## ccollum (Jun 29, 2011)

*Rivets to Use*

Since you are going through rubber and fiberglass, I would definately use a soft aluminum rivet. I don't know if you plan on using a solid rivet or a blind/pull rivet but in this instance I would recommend a blind/pull rivet. Reason being is that it is a softer aluminum and you wont take much of a chance craking the fiberglass by trying to form a shop head on a solid rivet. I would also see what types of rivets your local glass shop has. I bought some rivets a few years ago from my local glass shop and they had larger heads than normal to install lexan and plexiglass windows and panels.


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## 20simmons sea skiff (Aug 20, 2010)

when i started restoring wooden boats i found out something i didnt know, if u use stainless steel screws and paint over them they lose their anti corrosive properties


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## 20simmons sea skiff (Aug 20, 2010)

race car rivets, large head, avail at about all nuts and bolts stores such as ips


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> I will be putting 5200 adhesive behind the rub rail as I rivet/screw it to the boat......


That Crap will be EVERYWHERE before you are through. Fair Warning.



> Since you are going through rubber and fiberglass, I would definately use a soft aluminum rivet.


X-2


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## johnsonbeachbum (Oct 1, 2007)

20simmons sea skiff said:


> race car rivets, large head, avail at about all nuts and bolts stores such as ips


Most of the large flange race car rivets are alumunum with steel mandrel.
They are made with aluminum mandrel though.
#97447A075
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=d38wra

If your using a washer on the crunch side, maybe install them with the head on the fiberglass side so you don't have them sticking out at all.


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## Patriot (Jun 4, 2009)

Use aluminum rivits Yes they will eventually corrode and will also react with the stainless steel. Coat them with zinc chromate prio to install and this will slow down the corrosion. 

If you use stainless rivits, you better have a hydraulic rivit gun. Standard hand rivit gun will break right about the time your hands/arms break.

Please do not use 5200. Type III silicone is what you want to use.

5200 is structural adhesive designed to bed structural components prior to glass lay up. Kinda like liquid nails for boats.


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