# Cape Horn Owners Beware



## TheCaptKen

If you own a Cape Horn with the white plastic fuel tank under the console, take heed.
We had one with a Yamaha F115 come in this week that was running badly. Upon checking it, found severe crankcase blowby and the front of the engine was oily where oil was blowing out the front of the breather. Called my Yamaha rep and the first question was, is it a Cape Horn and does it have the white plastic fuel tank? I actually had to go out and check the color of the tank. He said that I would find #3 cylinder with predetionation damage. Low and behold, I later found out he was correct. He said that Yamaha use to warranty this until they figured out what was causing it. 

What is happening is, the white tank is not UV resistant and the sun hitting the tank degrades the fuel quickly and being the F115 doesn't have a knock sensor, the degraded fuel caused predetionation and ruins the engine. The rep said that they tell owners with this tank to add octane boosters to the fuel and keep the tank covered where the sun cannot hit it.
Even old mechanics can learn something new.


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## X-Shark

That's pretty interesting. I knew that the octane could degrade in a few months.


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## MyTimeToPlay!

*Your post scares the begeeez out of me....*

Sir,
I have a 04 17 ft Cape Horn with a 04 Yamaha 115. I just took my boat out for the first time since probably October, though I start it religiously every 2 weeks or less over that time, and after about an hour, doing about 1700 rpms (slow) I heard a high pitched whistle that sounded like high pressure being released. It wasn't loud. It lasted about 10 seconds then again for about 5 seconds a few minutes later going about the same speed. Didn't do it again for the 2 more hours I ran it. Towards the end of my cruise I heard a lite ticking, more like a knocking, but subtle. Almost like the sound a loose chain would make 9its hard to explain. It came and went. And, when I parked it at my friends dock for a few hours I noticed some smoke coming out of the exhaust port. BUT, there was fog out so it may have been condensation from the fog and hot exhaust. But I noticed it when I was trimming the motor up leaving just the lower unit in the water. But after a while I went out and drove it to the ramp a mile or two away and ran it hard. Through this all the motor ran fine. From when I put it in until I trailered it. I have had the boat for a year and a half, motor is an 04 with just shy of 200 hours, and since I have owned it I have always used ethanol free gas and yamalube stabilizer and Yamaha Ring Free Plus. No problems with it whatsoever since I have owned it. So, I do have the white (not really white per se because I can see the fuel through the haze of the tank). How can I determine if what you noted may be what is going on with mine. And I'm not sure how the UV rays can get to the tank when it is enclosed inside the console. I went to a reputable dealer and certified Yamaha dealer and talked to a certified yamaha mechanic. After telling him everything I just told you, he said, not to worry about a little smoke and that if the noise is subtle they may not be able to replicate it there (hence take the boat on a run with 2 mechanics $$$ to to try to hear it). He said, if its running strong and peeing he wouldn't worry about it too much. He thinks it fine. Your thoughts? And does anything I mentioned her seem like a precurser to total engine failure? And the head area under the cowling is very clean. Thanks for your time!!

Gene


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## TheCaptKen

What the Rep is saying is the white tank is allowing UV in the tank and speeding up the breaking down of the fuel. The octane level is critical. But by adding say a canvas cover over the opening, it will reduce this proplem. I finished breaking the engine down today and it amazed me on how accurate the tech was. We've all been taught that the new fuels start breaking down as soon as you pump it in your tank and 30 days it should be replaced.


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## MyTimeToPlay!

Sir, I am no way a professional mechanic our anything of the sort. But what you are saying about the tank doesn't make sense to what I see on my boat or know of UV. My tank is completely enclose in the center console. There is one air vent next to it in the side of the console. And from what I know about UV there needs to be direct (or some indirect)contact with the UV (sun) rays for there to be any UV effects. Like if you are in your house UV from the sun isn't an issue. And when I am not using my boat it stays covered. Please educate me since obviously I missing something. You are a professional on boats..... Any advice or direction you can give me with the discription of the sounds I am hearing from my motor would be very much appreciated!! Thank you!

Gene


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## X-Shark

Gene...Sounds as through YOU have nothing to worry about. Your boat is covered.

It is the consoles that are open in the back and allow the sun to hit the tank...Yours does not.



> My tank is completely enclose in the center console. when I am not using my boat it stays covered.


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## MyTimeToPlay!

Thank you Shark? Any input on my small issue with my motor? Is it possible that it could be just somehting temporary due to not running the engine under load since October or so? Like I said in my post above, I did run the motor religously at least every 2 weeks. Started it yesterday and it sounded fine! Thanks again!

Gene


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## TheCaptKen

What the whine might be is the drive shaft bushing being dry. There is a bushing just above the waterpump that needs to be greased once a year. That F115 needs the lower gearhousing dropped once a year and serviced which includes greasing the bushing and seal areas.


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## MyTimeToPlay!

Captain, I believe that is what the Yamaha mechanic I talked to last week said it might be. Does that require removing the head unit to get to it? Any clue how much it might cost me to get that taken care of? Thanks again!

Gene


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## TheCaptKen

Only requires dropping the lower gearhousing


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## MyTimeToPlay!

Captain Ken, Thank you! Thats exactly what it was! The metal interior of the bushing was actually broken! Thank you! 

ps.... is there a spray on the market that I can spray on my battery terminals to protect them from the elements? Had a break down this weekend and had to call seatow. Turned out myterminals were rusty and corroded. Cleaned them up real good and all seems well now. Thanks again!


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## MrFish

I use Corrosion X on everything as PM.


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## boatnbob

*Battery Spray*

I use the battery spray from any of the local automotive parts houses. It leaves a purple residue on the terminal area after spraying. Reminds me of lacquer. I also put the little felt rings under the terminals. This seems to prevent the corrosion for some reason. 

To clean the terminals prior to spraying, I use a mixture of baking soda and water to thoroughly clean the battery terminals/corrosion.

Good luck. 

Boatnbob


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## X-Shark

> Turned out my terminals were rusty and corroded.


I want to see your battery ends. Are they bare copper?

There are a LOT of boats running around here with bare copper ends.

It's wrong and it will just continue to corrode.

Here is a example to the extreme.




























This is why you want to use tinned copper ends, along with a good Heat Shrink with glue in it.

The pix's above were tinned wire and the heat shrink had the glue in it. All Anchor brand. But the lug ends were bare copper and allowed corrosion to creep under the heat shrink and attack the cable. I cut the insulation back to inspect the cable. That cable actually had a "Crunchy" sound to it when you bend it.


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## MyTimeToPlay!

Mr. Fish, Iis there a place locally I can purchase Corrosion X?

X-Shark, my lead ends are copper (which I believed they should be). Bare cooper. Should I get a soldering iron and tin them?.

Thanks Boatnbob!


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## X-Shark

No....They should be replaced with this.

Cable Ends

http://www.marinco.com/product/heavy-duty-lugs














Heat Shrink

http://www.marinco.com/productline/adhesive-lined-heat-shrink










This stuff is available from West Marine.


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