# Trailer torsion arm replacement?



## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

So how much of a job is it to replace torsion arms on a trailer? I've replaced entire axles on my old one and it wasn't too bad. This one is a new to me 2019 magic tilt dual axle trailer. Yes I'm guilty of a little neglect. I haven't been able to get out much the past 2 years. Damn I swear I washed it off good enough but it sure doesn't look like it when I did an inspection today. Oh well, lesson learned. Next time I'm going to soak with T9 or something. 

Anyway, this is the worst out of the 4. Being a 2019, the axles look very good but obviously I can't see under the torsion arms at the connection point. It's hard to believe they won't be reusable being so new. The ends of the axles that are visible don't look nearly as corroded as what you see in the pic so I have hope there. I'm thinking of just replacing the torsion arms, brake pads and cleaning everything else up. At the moment, my plan is to put one side on stands and replace one side at a time. Any tips from those who've done this before?

thanks


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## Big Perm (Aug 1, 2011)

I had to replace a complete axle on a Magictilt last year and just the axle was a little over a grand.


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## Realtor (Oct 1, 2007)

like said above, replace the whole thing.


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## KPTN (May 21, 2009)

I thought it would require a new axle as well. You can spray them down with fluid film from time to time to help prevent corrosion, its good stuff.


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Axles are exactly 2.5 years old. They actually look great. I found a post on another forum of someone replacing the torque arms. It may be worth a try first. I can always order the remaining parts depending on what I see under the corroded arms. The fun part will be doing all this with the boat on but I’ll just load it with Jack stands.


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## BananaTom (Feb 16, 2008)

How far are you from a boat ramp, it will be so much easier without the boat on it.


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## O-SEA-D (Jun 28, 2016)

Mine looked like that after two years as well. It was a tie down eng axle. I replaced with one from Boat Trailer in milton. Much better axle in my opinion. Their torsion arms are coated with bed liner.


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Forgot the name of the product I bought years ago for trailer coating. It’s a metallic like paint that worked great on my old trailer. I’m gonna get more for this job. 

My old trailer used tie-down stuff and the arms weren’t removable like my current one. Ended up replacing the axles at the boat ramp. It will be interesting to see how the axle ends look.

thanks all for the feedback


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## Realtor (Oct 1, 2007)

when you start to see rust, I slosh a little ospho on it (after cleaning it up).. then paint it with rustolium . I did that on my last trailer, and only replaced the axels once in 13 years. That trailer got dunked several times a week... take a hammer and see how thick that scale is.


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Yeah this is a wakeup call for me. I've maintained everything but the trailer thinking it was fine since it's only 2.5yo. 

For reference, this was from a guy that did the arm replacements. His axle looked way worse than mine. I think it's worth a try and maybe get a few more years out of these axles then do a full replacement. 

Right now Magic Tilt can't even pull up my vin # LOL! I'll just go with OEM for simplicity if I can find the parts. Next time I may go with a whole new axle manuf.


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## Realtor (Oct 1, 2007)

Xpac said:


> Yeah this is a wakeup call for me. I've maintained everything but the trailer thinking it was fine since it's only 2.5yo.
> 
> For reference, this was from a guy that did the arm replacements. His axle looked way worse than mine. I think it's worth a try and maybe get a few more years out of these axles then do a full replacement.
> 
> ...


you may be able to get the parts from eddie english? did you not rinse the trailer after dipping it? that seem excessive rust for 2/12 years?


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Don't know who Eddie English is but waiting on the part number confirmations from Magic Tilt. 

Yes the trailer was rinsed but I should have sprayed this part off more thoroughly. Like I said, lesson learned.


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## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

He will have everything you need. I have been there a few times. I am going to run out and spray my stuff with corrosion-X after this thread.









Eddie English Co., Inc.


Custom Boat Trailers, Trailer Repair, and Parts



eddie-english-co-inc.business.site


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Just called him. Nice guy. He's on it. Thanks Dude! Glad this post is useful LOL


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## Realtor (Oct 1, 2007)

Boat-Dude said:


> He will have everything you need. I have been there a few times. I am going to run out and spray my stuff with corrosion-X after this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 me too.... thanks for reminding us Xpac


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Game time. Just put 2 coats of rustlok on all the non functional surfaces of the parts. Hopefully I’ll be done by the end of the weekend.


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## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

Kickass!!!


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

All done. The torsion arms were a bitch to get off. I ended up having to cut into them with an angle grinder. The rest of the job was fairly simple. The axle ends looked good and the new setup should last several years. I'm thinking about going with brakes on the forward axle instead of both. Seems overkill for a 22' boat and it will be less up keep. Now it's on to the next problem - possible bad B175M.


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## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

Hey, did you put a zurk fitting in the end of the axle shaft? Then pump with grease?


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

I did not. Honestly I didn't know what that hole was for. I just pumped grease into the bearing protector zurk.


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## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

The grease fitting on the end of the axle pumps grease thru the center of the shaft to the beck bearing and it fills the entire hub cavity with grease and purges the air out the front of the hub. So when the grease gets older with mileage and you pump new grease in it pumps out the old grease out the front. I would put the zurks in and get the hub caps with the rubber plug from English's. The other good thing is it fills the hub totally full of grease not leaving any room for air or salt water intrusion.


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Oh you’re taking about the posi-lube spindle zurk hole? I didn’t but that will be very easy to do. I hand packed the new bearings and filled grease from the front. I thought you meant the actual ends of the axles themselves.


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## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

on post #16 you see the zurk screwed in the end of the axle shaft (spindle shaft), that is where you grease after all the bearings are packed and hub is put together, like in the video. Bearing buddys are for axles that do not have the zurk on the end of the shaft. I hope I am making sense.

The pic below you see that little pin hole in the middle of the spindle that is where the grease comes out and fills the hub.


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

Gotcha, the old torsion arms I removed had the same zurk hole. I guess they just added bearing buddies when the trailer was first built. My old boat used the spindle zurk like you mentioned and I never had an issue. I’ll get me some caps and rubber plugs.

thanks


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

> I hand packed the new bearings and filled grease from the front.


I put them together dry. Have the tire off the ground slightly.....I use a air grease gun.....While spinning the tire , I pump the grease. This will hydracly pack the bearings and fill the hub. Just like a bench bearing packer.


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## H2OMARK (Oct 2, 2007)

Word of caution Xpac, the rim of the bearing cover that the rubber fits in is like a razor, if you have to wipe any grease off it use a rag not your finger. Learned this the hard way.


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## Boat-Dude (Sep 24, 2011)

I use a flat screw driver to get the excess grease out. Like Mark said they are sharp on that inside edge.


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## Sensei (2 mo ago)

When installing the new torsion arm/spindle, how much did you tighten the bolt and nut? Does the arm need to close at the gap where the bolt slides in or did you hand tighten?


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## Xpac (Jun 22, 2011)

There was a torque spec for mine. I think it was around 150 ft lb. The gap was not closed.


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## Big E Nuff (Oct 4, 2007)

When repacking (adding grease) to the bearings on Posi Lube, take a newspaper and place under the bearing cap and down the front of the wheel and tire to the ground and then start pumping grease in. As it starts coming out the front of the cap keep pumping until you get good textured grease coming out and you have purged the system of moisture and old grease, then just pick up the paper with that old grease that has run out and onto it. Rap it up without getting the grease all over everything. Many think this will blow the back seal and let water in, but there is absolutely no pressure on the seal, because the relief hole for the grease after going through both bearings is back out the front where you see it coming out.


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## X-Shark (Oct 3, 2007)

You have a Posi Lube spindle....The hole is Gun drilled thru the spindle...Then it is cross drilled between the seal and inner bearing...It uses a Hub cap with a 3/4i aprox hole in it...A rubber plug goes in the hole.....Take the Bubby bearing Cap and Throw that Damn thing in the trash!

The Posi Lube system is superior!

I put them together dry and with the tire off the ground a inch....Rotate it while pumping grease in....Grease goes down the gun drill...Comes out and packs the inner bearing.....Fills the whole insde of the hub.....Then packs the outer bearing. With a Posi Lube system you can Flush the whole system , just by adding more grease...The old excess comes out where the rubber plug goes in. You will need a zerk fitting in that hole in the end of the spindle...Some tomes they are expansion type [hammered in]

Buddy bearing are good at starving the inner bearing and or blowing out the seal...

Installing Bearing Buddies on a Posi Lube spindle is going the Wrong way.


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